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CHOKLTOJSPS 

GRAPE  GROWERS'  GUIDE. 

A  HAND-BOOK 

OF   THE 

CULTIVATION  OF  THE  EXOTIC  GRAPE. 


BY 

WILLIAM    CHORLTON. 


NEW    EDITION. 

WITH    DESCRIPTIONS  OF    THE    LATER    EXOTIC    GRAPES,   AND  A 
SELECT    LIST    OF    THE    NATIVE    VARIETIES. 

By  Dr.  GEORGE  THURBER. 

ILLUSTRATED. 


NEW    YORK: 

ORANGE  JUDD  COMPANY 
1902 


Entered,  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1887,  by  the 

O.   JUDD    CO., 

In  the  Office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress,  at  Washington. 


CONTENTS 


CHAPTER  I. 

INTRODUCTORY  REMARK8. 

PAGI 

Hardiness  of  natives  and  exotics          .           • 

11 

Effects  of  mildew  and  excessive  changes    .           • 

11 

Cost  of  houses    ...... 

1? 

Skill  easily  acquired           •           •           •           . 

.    12 

Botanists'  distinctions   .           .            •           •           • 

13 

Circumstances  favorable  to  development  •           . 

.    14 

Evils  of  dogma  and  prejudice  .            .                        • 

15 

Acclimatizing          ..... 

16 

Gratification  and  advantage  of  the  Grapery    .            • 

16 

CHAPTER  II. 

HOUSES  AND   CONVENIENCES. 

Double  pitch,  curve,  and  straight  line     • 

.     18 

Single  pitch       ...... 

1* 

Ridge  and  furrow   ..... 

18 

Cold  Grapery : 

Most  suitable  houses  for        •           •           .           • 

18 

Position  for  double  pitch             •           •           • 

.    19 

oii-xVI/t    nitlln 

19 

Inclination  of  roof           •            •            •            . 

.    20 

Explanation  of  Frontispiece             •           • 

21 

Ground  Plan  to  Frontispiece     .            •            • 

.    22 

Calculations  of  profits           .... 

f         24 

H  ouse  not  to  be  used  for  other  purpose! 

.    26 

Foundations,  ventilators,  &c            •            .            • 

27 

Internal  fixings,  &a.        .            •            •            • 

.    27 

Evil  of  cold  water    . '                     •           •           • 

28 

Situation            .            .            •           •           • 

.    29 

Early  Grapery : 

Suitable  designs  for  and  remarks  on           •           • 

29 

Aspect    •••••• 

.    80 

IV  CONTENTS. 


Difficulties  with  outside  temperature  .           .                    80 

Description  and  plan  of  house               .  .               81 

Plan  of  ventilator     .  ...          82 

Advantage  of  inside  planting                .  •           .    88 

Plan  of  house  heated  by  fine  •           .                    84 

Grapery  for  pot  culture  : 

Plan  of  house  for                       •           •  •           •           .    35 

Other  houses  suitable           •           •  *           .           .          36 

Retarding  House : 
Objects  of  .  ••••••    86 

Position  and  aspect    .            .           •  .           .           .          87 

Plan  of  double  detatched  house              .  •           ,    88 

Mr.  Webster's  method  of  ventilation  .           ,          89 

CHAPTER  m. 

ARTIFICIAL  HEAT  AND  APPARATUS. 

Reasons  why  it  is  required              .            .  .           .           .40 


Steam  not  suitable,  and  why    . 

Hot  water  the  best 

Difference  of  material  for  pipes,  Ac. 

Plan  of  boiler  . 

Brick  flues,  general  remarks  on 

Drying  and  parching  effects  of  flues 

Size  and  capacity  of  flue  and  furnace 

Polmaise  heating,  remarks  on       . 

Plan  of  flue  and  polmaise  combined 

CHAPTER  IV. 


41 
41 
42 
43 
44 
15 
46 
47 
18 


BORDERS,  OR  PREPARED  BEDS. 

importance  of  right  preparation    .  .    49 

Bad  effects  of  unsuitable  materials                   •  .49 

Nitroarenized  manure  not  permanent                     •  .60 

Good  properties  of  bones  and  lime                   •  62 

Evil  of  over-deep  borders               .            .            .  .            ,52 

The  strongest  growth  not  the  best       .  .                     62 

Advantages  of  well  drained  borders          .            .  .           ,63 

How  to  make  the  borders         .....  53 

Good  drainage  retains  the  moisture          .  .64 

Advantages  of  making  only  a  part  at  first  ♦           •          65 

Too  much  stimulating  matter  not  good               •  .51 


CONTENTS. 


Width  of  borders 

How  to  retain  natural  longevity 

Useless  expenditure 


66 
57 
68 


CHAPTER  V. 

PLANTING   AND  MANAGEMENT  THE  FIRST    FBAB. 

Choosing  of  vines  for  planting       .... 
When  to  plant   ...••• 
How  to  plant  •  .  •  .  • 

Careful  watering  required  •  • 

Planting  vines  previously  started  into  growth     •  • 

Management  through  the  summer    •  •  • 

Attention  to  the  roots  •  •  • 

Necessity  of  a  warm  temperature         •  •  • 

Attention  to  the  tops  .  .  .  • 

Increase  of  air  as  ripening  progresses  .  •  • 

How  to  prune,  &c.  •  •  •  •  • 

Wash  to  kill  insects       .  •  .  • 

Covering  for  winter  •  .  .  •  • 

Top-dressing  of  compost  .  .  .  • 

CHAPTER  VL 

MANAGEMENT  FOB  THE  SECOND  YEAR,   AND  PERMANENT  TREATMENT 
FOR  THE  COLD  GRAPERY. 

Retarding  of  the  buds 

How  to  manage  the  advancing  growth 

Reducing  of  bunches 

Regulation  of  temperature        •  • 

Fertilizing  the  flowers        .  . 

Application  of  water  after  blossoming 

Further  reduction  of  fruit 

Thinning  out  the  superfluous  berries    . 

Inside  watering  through  the  summer 

Outside  watering  through  the  summer 

Application  of  liquid  manure 

A  drier  atmosphere  and  more  air  required 

House  to  be  closed  on  frosty  nights 

Fall  management  .  • 

Weight  of  fruit  to  be  allowed 


69 
69 
60 
61 
61 
62 
62 
63 
64 
64 
64 
65 
65 
66 


•                 • 

.    6? 

•               • 

. 

67 

,                . 

.    68 

• 

• 

68 
.    69 

.                    • 

. 

69 

•                 • 

.    70 

•                • 

71 

• 

.    72 

.                   . 

. 

72 

. 

.    73 

later  in  the  season 

73 

. 

. 

74 

.            • 

.    74 

,            , 

• 

76 

n 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  VIT 

THE  EAKLT  GRAPERY,  OB  FORCING   HOUSE 

Practical  skill  required,  and  remarks        •  • 

Yearly  ft  rcing  not  injurious    .  .  • 

Covering  for  outside  borders         •  •  • 

Injury  from  the  roots  being  in  a  cold  bed        •  • 

Time  to  prune,  and  commencing  to  force  • 

Evils  of  cold  drafts  of  air         .... 
General  treatment  .... 

Watering  outside  borders,  and  free  ventilation  • 

Second  early  crop  .... 

Journal  of  temperature  and  remarks  .  . 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

POT     CULTUEJB 

Advantages,  care  required,  &c.  .  .  • 

Comparative  difference  in  crop     .  .  . 

How  to  economise  space  .  •  •  . 

Suitable  vines,  compost,  and  potting        •  • 

General  treatment        .  •  •  .  • 

Management  for  second  fruiting   .  .  . 

Application  of  liquid  manure  .  . 


PAGB 

77 
79 
80 
80 
83 
84 
85 
86 
,  87 
88 


91 
92 
93 
93 
95 
96 
97 


CHAPTER  IX. 

RETARDING    HOU8! 

Objects  of  the  Retarding  House 
General  remarks,  and  treatment 
Caution  required  in  pruning  . 

How  long  in  the  year  grapes  may  be  had 


98 

98 

101 

102 


CHAPTER  X. 

LIST   OF  VARIETIES. 

Remarks  on  the  confusion  of  kinds  • 

Exotics,  descriptive  list 
Cold  Grapery,  the  best  kinds  for   •  • 

Forcing  House  .  .  . 

Retarding  House  •  •  • 


104 
105 
112 
112 
111 


CONTENTS. 

vi* 

PAG1 

Pot  culture 

•                        • 

113 

Remarks  on  Muscats 

•                        • 

.  114 

Native  Grapes,  varieties  of 

•            •            * 

lift 

CHAPTER  XI. 

PRUNING  AND 

TRAINING. 

General  remarks     .            .            • 

•               •               • 

.  116 

Double  spur  method     •            • 

117 

Single  close  spur  method             • 

•               •               • 

.  119 

Long  rod                   *'             • 

•                               • 

120 

Renewal                      •'                   . 

•               •               • 

.  121 

Extension                    "               . 

•               •               • 

122 

To  produce  temporary  full  crop     • 

•               •               • 

.  124 

Longevity  of  the  grape  vine    . 

•               •               • 

125 

Weight  of  fruit  that  a  vine  will  produce              •           • 

125 

Advantages  of  extension           • 

•               • 

126 

Summer  pruning    . 

•               •               • 

126 

Evils  of  shortening  in  too  close 

•               •               • 

128 

Curtailing  the  plant's  energy  shortens  life 

.   129 

CHAPTER  XII. 

PROPAGATION  AND  THE  RAISING  OF  NEW  KINDS. 

Propagation  by  eyes     . 

.               •               • 

131 

. 

.  132 

•               •               • 

133 

layers 

•                              • 

.  134 

•              •               • 

134 

grafting  . 

•                               • 

.  135 

inarching 

•              •               • 

137 

seed            • 

•              i              • 

.  138 

The  raising  of  new  kinds 

138 

Improvement  that  may  be  made    . 

•                              • 

.  139 

National  profits              .            • 

•               •               • 

140 

Hybridizing,  or  cross-breeding 

•                              • 

141 

CHAPTEB  XIU 

DISEA8BI. 

tfildew: 
Different  kinds,  and  first  indication        • 
Oidium,  its  appearance  •  • 


.149 
143 


Till  CONTENTS. 


Time  of  appearance       •••••.  144 

Sulphur  a  remedy      •           •           •                      •           .  145 

Botrytit  described           •            ,           •           •            •  145 

Hew  fungoids  vegetate         •           •           •           •           •  146 
Kinds  not  injurious        *••*..  148 

Shrivel  and  shank  : 

General  remarks             .             •            .            •            •  .  148 

Various  causes — how  produced         ....  149 

How  to  prevent               .            »                       •           •  15C 

Dry  rot  in  the  roots : 

Indications          ...                        •            •  151 

Other  kinds  of  rot,  and  how  to  prevent       .            •           •  151 

Rot  in  the  fruit : 

'•'he  cause,  and  how  to  remedy                    •           •  153 

fpot: 

The  probable  cause                           •           •            .  154 

Remarks  on  watering  overhead             .           •           •  154 

CHAPTER  XTV*. 

INSECTS  AND  HOW  TO  DESTROY  THEM* 

fiemarks  and  different  kinds    .                                     .            .  156 
Red  spider,  scaly  and  mealy  bugs              ....  157 

Green  and  black  fly,  thrips,  fretters,  rose  bug             .  158 

Beetles,  moths        ......  159 

CHAPTER  XV. 

THE  VINEYARD  AND  OUT-DOOR  CULTURE, 

General  remarks           .....  161 

Bad  effects  of  damp  air  and  undrained  land                     .  .162 

Carbonate  of  lime,  its  good  effects       ....  163 

CLoice  of  situation              .            .                        •            •  .  164 

Preparing  the  land        ••••••  165 

Action  of  cold  air               .           •           .            .            •  166 
Formation  of  terraces              .           •           •           •           .167 

CHAPTER   XVI. 

Supplementary  List  of  Exotic  and  of  Native  Varieties       ,.  205 


M. 


PUBLISHERS'  PREFACE. 


When  it  was  proposed  to  issue  a  new  and  enlarged 
edition  of  the  present  volume,  the  author  was  requested 
to  make  such  changes  and  additions  as  his  later  experience 
had  shown  to  be  necessary.  In  due  time  he  reported  that 
he  had  gone  all  over  the  work,  and  having  compared  its 
teachings  with  his  daily  practice,  he  could  see  nothing 
which  he  wished  to  alter.  He  suggested  that  the  work 
might  be  made  more  valuable  by  adding  descriptions  of 
the  better  varieties  of  the  exotic  grapes  introduced  since 
the  former  edition. 

In  view  of  the  above,  we  are  warranted  in  presenting 
the  work  as  embodying  the  former  teachings  confirmed 
by  the  later  experience  of  one  who  may  be  regarded  as  a 
veteran  in  grape  culture. 

The  suggested  list  of  the  newer  exotic  grapes  has  been 
added,  and  will  be  found  at  the  end  of  the  volume. 
When  this  work  was  first  published,  grape  culture  in  the 
open  air  was  almost  unknown.  A  few  attempts  at  plant- 
ing vineyards  with  exotic  varieties  had  resulted  disas- 
trously, and  the  cultivation  of  native  varieties  was,  in  the 
Nothern  States  at  least,  confined  to  city  yards  and 
sheltered  localities.  As  sufficient  directions  for  out-door 
culture  are  given,  it  is  thought  that  a  select  list  of  the 
leading  hardy  varieties  will  add  to  the  value  of  the  work  ; 
and  it  is  given  at  the  end  of  the  volume. 


n  c.  a*  ofr** 


PREFACE. 


Owing  to  the  favorable  reception  of  my  monograptt. 
the  Cold  Grapery,  by  those  who  are  interested  in  grape 
culture,  and  the  commendations  of  intelligent  practical 
cultivators  of  this  luscious  fruit,  I  have  determined  to 
comply  with  the  request  of  friends,  by  giving  a  more 
comprehensive  edition,  with  the  hope  that  my  humble 
efforts  may  be  of  service  to  the  public. 

What  is  recorded  is  simply  an  explanation  of  my  own 
experience  and  observation,  and  an  expression  of  my 
deliberately  formed  opinions.  The  method  here  given 
has  been  successful  hitherto,  and  is  founded  upon  the 
practice  of  the  last  quarter  century.  I  have  endeavored, 
as  much  as  possible,  to  give  a  common-sense  view  of  the 
whole  routine,  to  embody  every  idea  required  in  each 
department,  and  labored  to  make  the  detail  concise,  yet 
plain. 

Such  as  it  is,  I  submit  it  to  a  discerning  and  intelligent 
public,  and  shall  be  amply  repaid  for  my  trouble,  if  it 
shall  hereafter  be  the  means  of  extending  a  true  know 
ledge,  of  the  subject  on  which  it  treats. 

William  Chorlton 

#**  Brighton,  Stolen  IsUmd. 


(rf) 


CHAPTER  I. 
INTRODUCTORY  REMARKS. 

We  find,  from  history,  that  the  grape-vine  has  been 
one  of  the  most  esteemed  and  essential  fruits  from  the  most 
remote  periods  of  antiquity.  Its  cultivation  has  followed 
the  migrations  of  civilized  man  into  all  climes  suitable  to 
its  prosperity,  and,  since  the  erection  of  glass  houses  has 
been  understood,  has  become  adopted  into  many  countries 
where  it  otherwise  could  not  succeed. 

In  the  United  States,  the  different  varieties  of  the  native, 
Vitis  Labrusca,  as  Isabella,  &c,  and  those  of  the  native 
Vitis  vulpina,  as  Scuppernong,  &c,  with  ordinary  treat- 
ment, flourish,  and  ripen  their  fruit  in  the  open  air ;  while 
those   of  the  exotic,  Vitis  vinifera,  as  Ohasselas,  Ham- 
burgh, &c,  have,  excepting  in  a  few  solitary  instances, 
proved  a  complete  failure,  from  their  tendency  to  become 
mildewed.     In  most  parts  of  the  Union,  there  is  sufficient 
light  and  heat  to  bring  the  different  varieties  of  the  latter 
species  to  maturity,  and  they  are  hardy  enough  to  resist 
the  cold,  but  unfortunately,  when  the  disease  (allow  the 
expression)  attacks  them,  the  free  action  of  growth  is 
checked,  the   energy  is  impaired,  and   instead  of  well- 
hardened  wood,  there  is  nothing  but  an  unripened,  sappy 
substance,  to  withstand   the   severe  winters.    The  fruit 
also  is   rendered   worthless  from  the   same   cause;   and 
although  many  attempts  have  been  tried,  with  the  most 
sanguine  expectations,  they  have  been  as  often  abandoned. 
This  evil  is  the  result  of  the  growth  of  fungoid  veget*- 

CH) 


12  THE  GRAPE. 

tion,  the  development  of  which  is  accelerated  by  the  ex 
cessive  changes  from  dry  to  moist,  from  heat  to  cold,  and  vici 
versa.  Fortunately,  the  erection  of  glass  houses  is  now 
so  well  understood,  and  material  is  so  cheap,  that  we  have 
a  ready  antidote;  for,  by  planting  inside  these  structures, 
we  are  enabled  to  equalize  the  temperature  and  overcome 
the  difficulty.  There  is  also  the  advantage,  if  we  take  the 
whole  range  of  the  subject,  of  being  able  to  cut  ripe  grapes 
nearly  the  whole  year  round ;  and  even  as  a  general  crop 
in  the  cold  grapery,  with  a  proper  selection  of  sorts,  a  sup- 
ply may  be  obtained  from  the  middle  of  July,  or  the  be- 
ginning of  August  (according  to  locality),  on  to  near  the 
end  of  December. 

Generally  it  has  been  thought  that  the  cultivation  of 
this  desirable  fruit  was  prohibited  to  all  but  the  most 
wealthy,  on  account  of  expense,  and  peculiarly  myste- 
terious  skill.  As  to  the  first  difficulty,  good  and  suitable 
houses  can  be  erected,  when  heating  apparatus  is  not 
attached,  at  from  $8  to  $14  per  running  foot,  on  the 
length  of  the  house,  with  all  conveniences  included,  and 
proper  fertilizing  materials  are  no  great  expense;  so 
that  this  obstacle  can  be  removed  even  by  those  of  humble 
means.  In  making  the  above  assertion  as  to  cost,  it  is 
not  presumed  that  the  lesser  amount  will  complete  a 
stately  building,  but  a  snug  and  well  adapted  small  house, 
such  as  many  would  like,  can  be  finished  for  that  amount ; 
and  the  greater  sum  will  furnish  a  profit  to  the  builder,  on 
a  structure  sufficiently  elegant  and  commodious  to  gratify 
the  most  wealthy  or  fastidious.  With  regard  to  the 
skill,  if  the  directions  hereafter  laid  down  (with  a  little 
observation  added)  be  acted  upon,  a  sufficiency  of  prac- 
tical knowledge  will  soon  be  acquired;  for  these  direc- 
tions are  the  result  of  the  author's  experience,  and 
are  only  what  have  been  and  are  still  being  actually 


INTRODUCTORY   REMARKS.  13 

accomplished  by  good  grape-growers.  Many  have  been 
prevented  from  commencing  by  seeing  the  many  fail- 
ures that  have  occurred,  the  small  number  of  successful 
cases,  and  the  hitherto  almost  general  "  say,"  that  it  is 
absolutely  necessary  in  all  cases  to  have  fire  heat.  But 
we  are  dawning  upon  a  new  era  in  these  respects,  and  the 
alacrity  and  determined  enthusiasm  with  which  many  have 
now  come  into,  and  others  who  are  beginning  to  enter  the 
field,  will  go  far  towards  dispelling  these  fears,  and  will 
eventually  drive  out  prejudice.  No  fruit-bearing  plant 
will  give  greater  satisfaction  than  the  grape-vine,  and 
nothing  horticultural  will  continue  to  prosper  without  it. 
All  that  is  wanted  are  a  few  right  ideas,  and  the  writer 
has  done  his  best  to  discharge  his  duty,  feeling  convinced 
that  ere  long  the  grape-house  will  be  considered  as  neces- 
sary an  adjunct  to  an  estate,  however  small,  as  at  present 
is  a  peach-orchard. 

Botanists  disagree  with  respect  to  the  classifying  of  the 
genus  vitis,  some  making  the  species  very  numerous,  and 
others  only  dividing  it  into  well-marked  specialities,  thereby 
simplifying  and  rendering  the  differences  more  distinct. 
There  are  some  men  so  fond  of  dividing  and  subdividing 
nature's  distinctions  according  to  their  own  fickle  whims 
and  fancies,  that,  were  we  always  to  follow  them,  it  would 
take  a  lifetime  to  begin  to  understand  their  abstract  con- 
nections; and  as  these  individuals  have  in  many  cases 
become  authors,  and  consequently  are  referred  to  as  au- 
thority, there  is  some  apology  for  the  novice  wandering 
in  the  maze  of  misunderstanding  which  they  have  to  some 
extent  established.  Such  men  ought  to  take  a  course  of 
practical  lessons  in  hybridization,  and  see  the  results,  be 
fore  publishing  their  manuscripts,  when  they  would  dis 
cover  that  many  of  their  so-called  species  are  no  more 
distinct  than  some  of  the  varieties  which  may  be  artifi 

? 


14  THE  GRAPE. 

cially  produced.  However,  tins  lias  little  to  do  with  us  in 
the  present  subject,  further  than  the  understanding  of  the 
difference  between  our  natives  and  the  exotics,  and  here 
it  would  appear  that  the  constitutional  properties  alone 
are  sufficient  to  make  a  true  natural  division ;  for,  unless 
we  are  greatly  mistaken,  there  has  not  been  one  variety 
of  foreign  origin,  or  yet  a  seedling,  direct  from  the  same 
source,  which  can  be  truly  verified  as  withstanding  the 
changes  of  our  climate,  with  the  same  pertinacity  as  the 
natives. 

The  exotic  grape-vine  is  a  native  of,  and  flourishes  the 
best  in  warm,  even,  and  comparatively  dry  climates;  its 
organization  is  such  as  to  require  a  long,  steady,  and  warm 
season  to  perfect  its  growth.  Under  favorable  circum- 
stances, it  pushes  forth  a  vigorous  development,  and  ab- 
sorbs a  large  quantity  of  nutriment  from  the  soil,  if  encour- 
aged to  the  full  extent  of  its  powers.  The  broad  and 
ample  foliage  perspires  and  respires  very  freely.  Hence 
it  follows,  that  the  atmosphere  in  which  it  is  growing 
should  be  most  particularly  adapted  to  the  various  stages 
of  growth.  Practical  experience  shows  this  to  be  deci- 
dedly the  case ;  for,  when  not  attended  to,  the  most  inju- 
rious consequences  follow. 

Heat  is  the  cause  by  which  the  sap  is  set  in  motion  in 
the  spring,  and  when  it  is  once  excited,  the  action  is  grad- 
ually increased  along  with  the  rising  temperature,  until 
eventually  the  whole  energies  of  the  plant  are  brought 
into  active  play.  Light  and  moisture,  combined  with 
heat,  are  essential  to  its  welfare;  they  encourage  this 
action,  and  enable  the  plant  to  develop  and  mature  its 
growth  to  its  fullest  capacity.  This  being  the  case,  it  is 
easy  to  see  that  in  so  vigorous  a  grower  ad  the  grape-vine 
a  great  amount  of  these  three  elements  is  required.  This 
I  would  most  particularly  impress  upon  all  grape-growera 


INTRODUCTORY   REMARKS.  It 

Heat,  light,  and  moisture  are  the  main  requisites;  jet 
these  elements  are  generally  too  sparingly  administered, 
although  the  grape-vine  requiies  them  all  in  abundance 
while  growing  freely. 

It  would  be  well  if  all  cultivators  were  to  study  more 
closely  the  laws  by  which  the  vegetable  world  is  gov* 
erned ;  were  it  so  there  would  be  fewer  failures.  We  are 
attached  too  much  to  set  notions,  and  follow  the  blind 
practice  of  prejudice  oftener  than  we  ought ;  and  if  we 
add  to  this  the  great  number  of  pretenders  who  swarm 
over  the  country,  there  is  no  occasion  to  wonder  at  the 
many  failures.  Let  it  not  be  thought  that  I  wish  to  de- 
preciate the  character  of  the  skilful  horticulturist,  for  we 
have  many  men  who  are  an  honor  to  the  calling, — well 
qualified  to  give  advice,  and  under  whose  care  the  grape 
vine  is  as  well  managed  as  in  any  part  of  Europe;  but 
while  wishing  to  do  all  in  our  power  to  uphold  the  pro- 
fession, we  should  raise  our  voice  against  those  egotistical 
empirics  who  often  deceive  the  unwary,  waste  the  pro- 
perty of  those  who  employ  them,  and  bring  ruin  to  many 
a  horticultural  establishment.  In  no  department  is  this 
more  often  seen  than  in  the  grapery,  where  the  weak 
growth,  the  ill-fed  papery  leaves,  and  spare  fruit  tell  a 
woful  tale  of  mismanagement.  Yet  no  fruit-bearing  plant, 
yields  more  readily  to  the  wishes  of  the  cultivator,  or  will 
bear  more  illtreatment  than  the  grape,  and  if  o'her  fruits 
had  to  be  managed  as  artificially  as  this  requires  to  be 
under  glass,  there  would  be  in  them  more  failures,  than  it 
is  subject  to  under  inexperienced  hands. 

Although  there  is  much  skill  required  in  the  cultivation 
,<f  this  fruit  in  all  its  bearings,  there  are  none  of  those 
superannuated  nostrums,  or  mysterious  dogmas  required, 
that  these  quacks  prate  about,  and  the  necessary  know- 
ledge is  readily  acquired.   The  main  secrets  are,  to  under 


16  THE  GRAPE. 

stand  the  constitutional  habits,  and  adapt  oi.r  treatment 
accordingly.  Now,  if  we  take  into  consideration,  as  stated 
above,  that  the  exotic  grape-vine  is  indigenous  to,  and 
flourishes  best  in  those  countries  which  have  long  and 
steady  summers,  and  that  those  same  localities  are  com- 
paratively dry  during  the  periods  of  rest,  it  seems  only 
reasonable  that  we  should  keep  up  a  warm  and  equable 
temperature  during  growth,  and  also  have  the  roots  in  a 
well-drained,  or  naturally  dry  substratum, — so  far  for  its 
natural  requirements.  All  that  we  have  so  far  done,  by 
attempting  to  acclimatize  the  grape,  has  not  yet  overcome 
these  physical  difficulties,  neither  will  any  future  attempts 
succeed,  unless  we  get  a  race  of  seedlings,  crossed  with  the 
native  varieties,  and  raised  in  our  own  climate.  By  en- 
couraging vigorous  development,  by  a  moist  atmosphere, 
added  to  this  required  steady  heat,  and  afterwards  concen- 
trating the  collected  juices  by  a  further  continuance  of 
the  latter  principle,  with  air  more  freely  admitted  until 
the  approach  of  maturity,  afterwards  reducing  the  tem- 
perature, and  moisture  as  ripening  progresses,  it  will  bend 
to  the  will  of  the  most  fastidious  enthusiast. 

By  the  aid  of  glass  houses,  either  with  or  without  arti- 
ficial heat,  all  this  can  be  accomplished,  and  as  they  can 
be  erected  of  any  size  to  suit  the  pecuniary  means,  or 
caprice  of  different  persons,  a  grapery  is  within  the  reach 
of  a  poor  man.  How  gratifying  would  it  be  to  the  me- 
chanic, and  small  tradesman,  to  have  attached  to  his 
homestead  a  small  house  of  grapes, — what  an  appendage 
to  his  little  domain,  and  with  what  exulting  feelings  would 
he  view  his  crop  as  "he  sat  under  his  own  vine,"  and 
watched  with  an  enthusiastic  pleasure  the  several  stages 
of  bursting  buds,  flowers,  and  fruit,  knowing  that  he  could 
enjoy  his  own  luscious  grapes,  equal  in  quality  with  those 
of  the  most  wealthy  proprietor  in  the  land,  or  the  great 


INTRODUCTORY  REMARKS.  17 

est  nabol  :n  aristocratic  Europe.  This  pleasure  may  be  en 
joyed  by  most   persons.     Half  the  money  that  is  often 
spent  in  "  gingerbread"  decorations,  miscalled  ornaments 
around  a  dwelling-house,  would  erect   a   little   grapery, 
which  in  many  places  might  be  attached  to,  or  cover  one 
end  of  the  building,  having  a  door  leading  into  it  from  the 
house  :  and  let  not  the  wife  or  daughters  think  the  neces- 
sary attentions  required  during  the  absence  of  the  "glide 
man,"  to  be  a  degrading  pursuit,  for  it  is  no  mean  occupa- 
tion.    Woman  never  yet  lowered  herself  by  being  seen  in 
the  garden,  or  by  obtaining  a  knowledge  of  plants,  and 
rural  affairs,  and  it  is  surely  far  better  to  be  employed  in 
healthful  exercise,  such  as  is   here  furnished,  than  to  be 
lolling  from  morn  to  night,  inanimate,  as  it  were,  upon  the 
downy  sofa,  reading  exciting  and  voluptuous  novels,  and 
assisting  the  seeds  of  consumption  to  germinate.     Would 
that  we  could  induce  our  accomplished  matrons,  and  fair 
belles  to  take  a  more  active  part  in  the  operations  of  hor- 
ticulture.    Why  should  these  departments  be  considered 
too  masculine  for  woman's  position  in  society  ? 


CHAPTER  II. 

HOUSES   AND    CONVENIENCES. 

There  has  been  from  time  to  time,  much  controversy 
respecting  the  various  kinds  of  structures  which  are  most 
suitable.,  for  cultivating  the  grape  vine.  Some  advocate 
the  curved  line,  double  pitch;  others  again,  the  straight 
line,  double  pitch.  Some,  from  a  preference  for  old  no- 
tions, think  none  so  suitable  as  the  common  lean-to,  while 
a  few  who  have  advanced  a  step  out  of  this  position, 
will  admit  instead  of  the  common  plane  lean-to,  a  roof 
with  a  curved  line.  Latterly  a  new  notion  has  sprung  up, 
and  we  find  the  ridge-and-furrow-formed  roof  is  gaining 
an  ascendancy. 

In  order  to  make  this  part  more  easily  understood,  it  h 
divided  into  the  Cold  Grapery,  or  growing  without  artifi 
rial  heat ;  Forcing  House,  Forcing  House  for  Pot  Culture, 
and  Retarding  House. 

Cold  Grapery. — The  form  of  the  house  for  this  pur- 
pose is  not  so  material,  as  the  having  it  so  constructed, 
that  it  may  be  shut  up  tight  in  cases  of  emergency.  With 
this  precaution,  good  glass,  and  good  management,  any 
style  will  answer  the  purpose;  consequently  the  build- 
ing may  be  erected  to  suit  almost  any  fanciful  design 
which  the  architect  may  choose,  providing  there  is  con- 
venience for  training  the  vines  properly,  and  at  a  suitable 
distance  from  the  glass;  and  if  thought  proper  the  whole 
surface  may  be  of  glass,  for  while  this  house  is  being 
worked,  there  is  not  much  cold  weather  to  contend  with 

118) 


HOUSES  AND  CONVENIENCES.  19 

nothing  more  than  can  be  guarded  against  by  clos.ng  up 
If  there  is  any  preference  for  general  utility,  the  curva 
line  double  pitch  ought  to  be  chosen,  as  from  the  convex 
surface  which  is  exposed  to  the  sun's  rays,  at  whatever 
altitude  he  may  be,  the  intense  heat  is  somewhat  scat 
tered,  there  is  less  danger  of  the  leaves  being  scorched; 
and  the  light  is  also  more  equally  distributed ;  this  form 
is  also  generally  considered  the  most  agreeable  to  the  eye. 
Whatever  style  of  double  pitch  be  adopted,  the  ends 
ought  to  face  north  and  south,  or  as  near  these  points  as 
may  be  convenient, — although  a  few  degrees,  variation 
either  way  is  not  of  much  consequence.  By  placing  the 
house  in  this  position,  both  sides  receive  the  influence  of 
the  sun  equally ;  besides  in  the  middle  of  the  day,  when 
his  rays  are  most  intense,  they  are  partly  warded  off  by 
striking  obliquely  upon  the  sash-bars  above,  which  on  the 
whole  length  of  the  house,  acts  as  a  considerable  shade. 

In  some  cases,  it  may  be  desirable  to  cover  a  dead  wall 
or  side  of  a  building ;  or  it  may  be  requisite  that  the  cold 
grapery  should  be  connected  with  a  line  of  early  forcing, 
or  plant  houses,  when  the  lean-to  roof  will  be  most  con- 
venient, but  there  is  no  other  advantage  in  adopting 
it,  for  with  a  double  pitch,  having  two  rows  of  pillars 
inside,  one  on  each  side  of  the  central  pathway,  both 
sides  may  be  planted,  thus  accommodating  a  double  quan- 
tity of  vines  ;  besides  there  is  no  back  wall  seen,  and  it 
shows  better  taste  in  the  proprietor.  Where  the  avoiding 
of  expense  is  an  object  it  is  also  the  cheapest,  considering 
the  number  of  plants  provided  for.  Where  the  lean-to  is 
adopted,  the  south-east,  or  south-west  aspect  is  best, 
though  full  south  is  not  objectionable,  and  grapes  may  be 
well  ripened  when  the  house  faces  due  east  or  west. 
Further  north  than  these  two  points  cannot  be  considered 
suitable.     Tn  case  it  may  be  wished  that  the  flnld  Grapery 


20  THE   GRAPE 

should  correspond  with  some  peculiar  style  of  architect™  e 
in  the  dwelling-house,  or  other  contiguous  buildings  (and 
these  points  ought  often  to  be  considered),  the  ridge-and 
furrow  roof  offers  the  greatest  facilities,  as  it  may  be 
adapted  to  almost  any  form,  without  destroying  its  em* 
ciency,  for  the  vines  can  be  trained  horizontally  under  the 
roof;  the  grapes  also  look  very  handsome  in  this  position 
as  they  hang  perpendicularly  down  from  the  whole  sur- 
face above.  The  canes  in  this  case  may  be  conducted 
along  the  under  surface  of  each  furrow,  and  the  side  spurs 
fixed  at  right  angles,  which  enables  the  operator  to  arrange 
the  bunches  with  the  nicest  regularity. 

With  respect  to  the  inclination  of  the  roof,  it  is  desira- 
ble that  it  be  not  less  than  45,°  for  the  following  reasons : 
our  almost  vertical  sun  at  midsummer,  wben  there  is  the 
greatest  danger  of  scorching,  will,  at  mid-day,  strike  the 
glass  at  an  oblique  angle,  thus  lessening  its  intensity  and 
to  a  certain  extent  counteracting  the  evil  The  glass 
being  more  upright,  the  wind  or  draft  admitted  through 
the  laps,  will  be  somewhat  intercepted,  and  confined  more 
immediately  to  the  inner  surface  of  the  roof,  which  will 
ensure  a  more  equable  temperature  around  the  leaves  and 
stems,  preventing  somewhat  the  tendency  to  mildew.  A 
steep  roof  also  gives  an  additional  length  of  rafter  on  a 
given  width  of  house,  which  is  an  advantage,  as  the  vines 
with  the  general  modes  of  training,  have  more  extent  to 
develop  their  energies,  and  produce  individually  greatei 
crops. 

The  frontispiece  to  this  work  is  designed  for  the  pur- 
pose of  showing  a  comple  arrangement  of  the  grapery  to 
suit  all  purposes,  and  at  the  same  time  to  form  a  beautiful 
architectural  structure.  Allowing  the  Cold  Grapery  to  be 
fifty  feet  long  by  twenty  feet  wide,  and  the  others  col- 
lectively to  be  one  hundred  feet  long:  by  twenty-five  feet 


HOUSES   AND   CONVENIENCES.  21 

iride,  the  whole  could  he  finished  and  every  convenience 
included  for  ahout  $2500.  The  main  front  is  shown  in 
the  ground  plan,  Fig  2,  to  face  full  south.  In  such  case  it 
frill  be  understood  that  the  Retarding  House  would  have 
a  due  north  aspect,  which  is  somewhat  a  disadvantage,  aa 
the  sun  would  have  little  effect  upon  it.  In  order  to 
remedy  this,  one-third  in  depth  of  the  upper  part  of  the 
central  longitudinal  division  wall  might  be  of  glass,  which 
would  allow  a  considerable  portion  of  light  to  pass  through 
from  the  southern  side,  and  thereby  obviate  the  evil.  Such 
a  contrivance  is  now  under  the  charge  of  the  writer  in  a 
house  for  flowering  plants,  and  answers  admirably.  There 
is,  however,  no  objection,  where  circumstances  will  permit 
of  choice  in  location,  to  the  placing  of  the  front  aspect  a 
few  degrees  east  of  south,  which  would  in  an  equal  ratio 
turn  the  northern  side  towards  the  west,  indeed  all  things 
considered  it  would  be  as  well  for  all  requirements.  If  a 
Retarding  House  be  not  wanted,  the  northern  side  might 
be  converted  into  a  neatly  finished  row  of  convenience 
rooms,  or  if  this  were  objected  to,  it  would  make  as  fine  a 
house  for  apricots,  camellias,  oranges,  or  such  like,  as 
could  be  desired.  It  is  intended  by  the  plan  to  fix  the 
heating  apparatns  in  a  cellar  beneath  the  northern  divi- 
sion, and  the  boilers  or  furnaces  near  each  other  and  adja- 
cent to  the  chimney,  each  flue  being  conducted  into  the 
main  outlet  as  shown  in  Fig.  10.  If  the  cellar  were  re- 
jected, the  north-east  portion  might  be  employed  for  tbo 
same  purpose;  but  in  the  former  case  all  nuisance  is 
pi  evented,  and  the  whole  building  would  be  composed  of 
fc  surface  of  glass,  from  the  wall  plates  to  the  ridges. 

Fig.  3  shows  an  interior  view  of  a  Cold  Grapery,  no\f 
inder  the  writer's  charge,  which  is  74  feet  long,  20  feet 
uride,  and  14  feet  high,  from  the  base  level;  there  is  a 
•Astern  sunk  beneatr  near  the  centre,  19  feet  deep  by  12 


22 


GROUSJ*    PLAN   TO   FRONTISPIECE. 


HOUSES  AND   CONVENIENCES. 


23 


feet  wide,  and  a  force  pump,  hose,  and  tank  for  tempered 
water.  The  house  rests  upon  strong  cedar  posts,  and  the 
borders  are  20  feet  wide  each,  outside;  the  inside  like- 
wise is  prepared  in  the  same  manner,  which  gives  an  ex 
tent  of  60  feet  extreme  breadth.    For  proportions  and 

Fig.  a. 


Inside  V 


Cold  Grapery  of  J.  C  Green,  Esq  ,  Staten  Island. 


style,  this  house  is  considered,  by  most  persons  who  hav  < 
seen  it,  to  be  satisfactory  in  every  respect.  The  vines 
were  planted  in  March,  1850,  and  there  has  been  the  fol- 
lowing  number  of  bunches,  of  good  quality,  cut  in  the 
respective  years  mentioned  below  : 

1851,          .         .         .         2G2  bunches 
1852                                 .     61S 
1853,                   .  9is         «* 

1854 1147         u 


Making  a  total  of 


2945 


24  THE  GRAPE. 

There  is  nothing  extraordinary  in  the  above  produce,  more 
than  others  may  accomplish;  it  is  only  an  average  of  what 
proper  management  and  attention  will  do,  and  is  more  par- 
ticularly introduced,  as  an  answer  to  the  oft  repeated 
(juestioi,  "will  it  pay  V  The  average  weight  of  these  re- 
flective crops,  if  taken  collectively,  would  be  one  pound 
par  bunch,  all  of  which  might  have  been  sold  at  whole- 
sale for  fifty  to  seventy-five  cents  per  lb.  The  following 
calculation  of  expenses,  which  is  as  correctly  stated  as 
can  be,  will  show  the  balance  of  profits  : 


2945  lbs  at  50  cts. 

$1472  50 

Deduct  labor  1st  year.    .     . 

$50  00 

"          "     2d      "      .    . 

. 100  00 

"          "      3rd     "... 

150  00 

"          «     4th     ",    .    . 

.  200  00 

"           "     5th     "  .     .    • 

225  00 

Yearly  dressings,  $20.    .    . 

.  100  00 

Repairs,  painting,  &c.,  .    .    . 

200  00  1025  00 

$447  50 

By  the  above  example  it  will  be  seen,  that  there 
is  $447  above  the  lowest  wholesale  market  prices  and 
as  the  house,  borders,  &c,  cost  about  $2000,  it  leaves 
a  surplus  profit  of  4J  per  cent,  per  annum,  upon  invested 
capital,  which  in  the  present  position  looks  somewhat  low, 
but  it  must  be  considered,  that  in  this  case,  profit  was  not 
the  object,  everything  was  done,  regardless  of  expense, 
to  make  a  good  and  fine  looking  structure ;  the  best  French 
crystal  glass  was  used,  and  all  labor  paid  by  the  day, 
besides,  in  the  first  year  there  is  no  return  profit,  and  the 
last  season  is  the  only  one,  in  which  a  full  crop  has  been 
taken ;  take  into  consideration  too,  that  the  labor  account 
for  after  management  is  reckoned  at  $2  per  day,  and  it 
will  readily  be  seen,  that  a  good  and  suitable  house  may 


r  LlBRARf 
ai   r   Stat'  « 


n#w 


HOUSES  AND   CONVENIENCES.  25 

be  built  and  tended  so  as  to  give  a  large  return  of  profit 
A  house  of  equal  dimensions,  and  well  finished  can  be 
erected  at  $12  per  lineal  foot,  with  the  exception  of  cis- 
tern,  force  pump,  hose,  and  tank  ;  and  if  we  make  an  es- 
timate of  all  incidental  expenses  on  a  house  equal  to  the 
above,  and  50  feet  long,  it  will  stand  thus : 
House  finished  with  two  coats  of  paint, 
50  feet  long  at  $12.00     ,         .         .         $60o  00 
Brick  cistern,  cemented,  10  ft.  by  10  ft. .     70  00 
Tank,  Force  Pump,  and  Hose.  .  90  00 

25  tons  manure  for  borders  at  $2.  .  .  50  00 
Material  for  drainage.  .  ,  ,  20  00 
90  bushels  bones,  at  50  cts.  ,     45  q0 

100  do.  charcoal,  &c.  ...         15  00 

Labor  making  borders,  &c.  .  .  .  20  00 
48  vines,  at  50  cts,    .        .        .        .        24  00 

$934  00 
The  comparative  weight  of  fruit  that  may  be  taken  from 
the  latter  will  be  about  two-thirds,  or  1964  lbs.  at  the  same 
prices,  making  the  total  value  for  the  five  years  of  $982, 
and  allowing  the  labor,  expenses,  &c,  to  be  the  same  com- 
paratively in  both  cases,  we  may  put  down  $298  gain  upon 
«  capital  of  $934,  which  shows  a  profit  of  about  six  per 
cent,  per  annum,  and  this  too  at  the  commencement.  Ii 
we  were  to  reckon  upon  after  years,  when  the  vines, 
would  bear  regularly  full  crops;  it  will  readily  be  seen  that 
the  profits  would  be  much  greater,  and  that  with  good 
management,  there  is  no  loss  in  having  a  Cold  Grapery 
even  though  partial  failures  may  occur. 
^  When  the  grape-vine  is  to  be  grown  to  the  greatest  per 
fection,  the  house  ought  not  to  be  applied  to  any  other 
purpose.  It  appears,  at  first  thought  very  reasonable  to 
•appose,  that  for  a  general  or  summer  crop  of  grapes,  the 
2 


26  THE  GRAPE. 

house  may  serve  as  a  winter  conservatory  for  flowering 
plants,  but  experience  shows,  that  however  late  the  vises 
may  be  kept  back  in  the  Spring,  the  buds  will  burst  before 
the  weather  is  suitably  mild  to  turn  the  plants  out,  and 
into  the  open  air ;  and  at  this  time  the  vines  will  require 
a  temperature  peculiar  to  themselves,  which  would  gene- 
rally be  too  damp  and  close  for  the  plants,  many  of  which 
at  the  time,  will  be  in  a  blooming  state,  requiring  more  air 
and  a  cooler  atmosphere,  than  will  be  suitable  for  the 
vines ;  besides  it  is  almost  impossible  to  keep  down  insects 
in  a  house  where  plants  are  kept.  There  is  some  excuse 
in  an  early  forced  grapery,  which  is  so  congenial  to  the 
well  being  of  some  natives  of  the  tropics,  but  as  a  general 
greenhouse  requires  heating  and  the  cold  grapery  does  not, 
the  expense  of  two  houses  is  not  so  great,  compared  with 
the  advantage  to  be  gained ;  therefore  if  possible,  it  is 
much  better  to  have  two  houses  where  both  are  wanted 
If  pecuniary  benefit  be  an  object  it  is  also  more  profitable, 
for  the  grape  if  well  dealt  by,  will  be  honest  in  return,  and 
pay  a  large  per-centage  upon  capital,  independently  of 
ordinary  expenses  of  labor,  &c,  but  when  neglected  the 
reverse  is  the  case. 

In  order  to  give  free  range  to  the  roots  it  is  advisable 
to  erect  the  house  upon  stone  pillars,  or  locust,  or  cedai 
posts,  (each  of  which  ought  to  be  directly  beneath  a  rafter,) 
which  will  allow  them  free  egress  to  the  outside  borders. 

There  are  several  ways  by  which  these  houses  may  be 
ventilated,  perhaps  the  most  convenient  is  to  admit  air  at 
the  top,  and  near  the  bottom,  or  under  the  wall  plate. 
The  lower  opening  ought  to  be  made  so  as  to  shut  very 
tight,  as  the  admission  of  cold  drafts  from  below  has  a 
tendency  to  reduce  the  heat  in  the  lower  base  of  the  house 
—the  very  part  which,  if  possible,  ought  to  be  the  warm- 
est    Nature  here  teaches  us  a  lessen,  and  it  would  be  well 


HOUSES   AND   CONVENIENCES.  27 

if  we  always  gave  ear  to  her  instructions — the  sunss  rayi 
strike  the  earth,  and  produce  the  greatest  heat  at  the  sur- 
face. She  has  no  fixed  confining  canopy  over  the  plants 
under  her  charge  to  prevent  the  heat  from  passing  up- 
ward, and  if  we  are  obliged  to  have  such,  we  ought  not 
to  render  our  necessities  more  unnatural  than  there  is  occa- 
sion for.  Keep  the  head  cool  and  the  feet  warm,  is  ad 
vice  often  given  by  our  physicians,  and  the  same  rule 
applies  to  plants  generally,  with  very  slight  modifications. 

If  the  roof  be  made  with  sashes  to  slide  over  each  other, 
which  is  the  method  best  adapted  for  removal  of  the 
house  at  any  future  time,  the  upper  ones  will  become  the  top 
ventilators;  but  when  it  is  fixed,  and  composed  of  a  con- 
tinuous row  of  sash  bars  over  supporting  rafters  underneath, 
the  openings  require  to  be  lifted  up  from  the  bottom,  and 
hung  on  the  opposite  end  by  hinges,  or  suspended  by  the 
middle  on  each  side,  and  opened  on  a  pivot.  When  hung 
by  hinges  the  sides  may  rest  upon  the  rafters,  and  the 
lower  end  project  a  little  over  the  next  squares  of  glass, 
thereby  making  it  proof  against  drip,  and  this  is  perhaps 
the  best  plan,  for  beside  being  safer  against  rain,  air  can 
be  admitted  and  the  temperature  lowered,  without  cold 
draughts  striking  down  into  the  house.  If  hung  from  the 
sides  there  are  no  effectual  means  of  capping,  and  howevet 
good  the  joints  may  be,  the  rain  will  find  its  way  through 
more  or  less  in  time  of  violent  storms. 

The  internal  fixings  required,  are  wires  to  support 
the  vines,  a  tank  to  hold  water  while  being  tempered  in 
the  house,  a  hose  with  a  pipe  attached  to  distribute 
the  water,  and  a  force-pump  to  supply  the  hose.  Tr<3 
wires  are  most  convenient  when  placed  parallel  with  the 
sash-bars,  and  about  fifteen  inches  below  the  glass,  which 
will  be  sufficient  to  clear  the  leaves  from  contact ;  if  less 
space  i»  allowed,  the  foliage  of  vigorous  vines  will  touch 


28  THE  GRAPE. 

the  roof,  ana  <ire  more  exposed  to  the  changes  of  tempera 
ture,  their  action  also  will  be  impeded  by  being  cramped, 
but  a  greater  distance  than  is  actually  required  is  objec* 
tionable,  as  the  nearer  the  glass  the  better 

For  a  large  house,  a  tank  that  will  hold  about  two  hun- 
dred gallons  will  be  requisite,  and  for  a  smaller  house, 
one  in  proportion.  This  tank  duiing  the  earlier  growing 
season  ought  to  be  kept  full  of  water,  so  that  when  used 
it  may  he  of  the  same  temperature  as  the  inside  of  the 
house.  Cold  water  applied  immediately  from  an  under- 
ground cistern,  or  welly  suddenly  checks  the  action  of  all 
plants,  and  ought  by  all  means  to  be  guarded  against 
The  force-pump  may  be  attached  to  the  tank,  and  if  an 
air-tight  metal  globe  be  fixed  over  the  discharge  pipe,  on 
the  same  principle  as  a  fire  engine,  a  steady  stream  will 
be  propelled  through  the  hose.  By  having  two  faucets  on 
the  lower  pipes,  one  leading  to  the  tank,  and  the  othei 
from  the  cistern  below,  there  is  no  need  for  two  pumps,  as 
they  may  be  shut,  and  opened,  so  as  to  answer  the  double 
purpose  of  drawing  water  from  the  cistern,  or  distributing 
it  from  the  tank  over  the  house.  For  a  small  grapery 
where  economy  is  an  object,  a  common  syringe  may  be 
used  instead  of  the  hose,  but  in  a  large  house  the  force 
pump  is  more  economical,  and  has  the  advantage  of  ena 
bling  the  operator  to  drive  the  water  well  into  the  crevices 
of  the  wood-work,  which  greatly  assists  in  keeping  clear 
of  insects. 

If  there  is  not  a  good  supply  of  soft  watei  close  at  hand, 
it  is  desirable  to  have  a  cistern  sunk  under  or  immediately 
near  the  house,  and  the  water  conveyed  into  it  from  the 
roof  by  gutters  and  pipe,  which  saves  much  labor,  beside 
the  benefit  of  always  having  rain  water,  which  is  tli3  best 
for  all  plants. 

The  situation  of  the  Cold  Grapery  is  a  matter  of  import 


HOUSES  AND  CONVENIENCES.  29 

wee,  and  in  making  arrangements  ought  not  to  be  lost 
eight  of.  It  should  be  freely  exposed  to  light  and  air  on 
all  sides,  if  possible,  away  from  the  shade  of  trees  or  sur- 
rounding buildings,  and  if  sheltered  on  the  north,  east,  and 
west,  so  much  the  better ;  but  it  is  best  for  this  to  be  a 
sufficient  distance,  so  as  to  secure  a  free  action  of  the  air 
around.  Shelter  is  not  indispensably  necessary,  but  if 
practicable,  is  of  use,  as  it  assists  in  warding  off  the  cold 
winds,  which  often  prevail  until  late  in  spring,  and  after 
the  vines  have  begun  to  grow. 

The  Early  Grapery. — When  the  grape  is  produced  as 
an  earlier  crop  than  the  cold  grapery  will  furnish,  we  have 
to  resort  to   artificial  heat,   and  with  our  ever  variable 
climate,  particularly  during  the  frigid  blasts  of  the  latter 
part  of  winter,  it  becomes  requisite,  that  we  should  have  a 
tight  and  well  protected   house   to  work  with ;  so  that 
variety  of  design  has  in  this  case  to  succumb  to  circum- 
stances.    When  a  warm  temperature  has  to  be  kept  up 
by  means  of  fuel,  economy  ought  to  be  a  prominent  fea- 
ture; and  further,  it  is  indispensable  that  a  wholesome 
and  growing  atmosphere  be  maintained,  which  cannot  be 
the  case  unless  there  is  a  command  of  genial  moisture 
during  the  earlier  stages  of  growth ;  both  these  require- 
ments are  best  secured  by  close  built  structures,  in  which 
there  is  as  little  cubic  bulk  of  air  to  be  heated  as  may  be 
consistent  with  sufficient  convenience.     It  will  be  readily 
understood  from  this  that,  the  different  forms  of  curvilinear 
and  plane  lean-to  roofs  are  the  best,  the  wall  plate  upon 
which  the  lower  ends  of  the  rafters  rest,  being  only  a  short 
distance  above  the  ground  level.     Where  there  is  nothing 
to  interfere  with  choice,  the  curve  line  is  preferable,  so  far 
as  beauty,  and  the  equalizing  of  the  sun's  rays  is  con- 
cerned, but  there  may  be  a  set-off  against  this  form,  from 
the  greater  surface  of  glass,  which  may  be  thought  to 


30  THE   GRAPE. 

conduct  the  applied  heat  away  with  a  more  than  equal 
ratio.  Balancing  all  points,  what  is  gained  by  one,  is  lost 
in  the  other,  and  hoth  are  equally  suitable. 

With  regard  to  aspect,  full  south  is  the  best,  where  con- 
venience will  allow.  South,  south-east,  is  sometimes  re- 
commended, but,  although  with  care,  it  answers  well 
enough,  there  are  the  folio  wing  objections.  It  often  hap- 
pen^ '•hat  the  most  severe  cold,  or  lowest  grade  of  the 
thermometer  outside,  is  immediately  before,  or  at  the  time 
of  sunrise,  on  the  clearest  mornings,  and  the  heating  ap- 
paratus must  not  be  allowed  to  cool  down ;  now  as  the  sun 
rises  direct,  or  nearly  perpendicular  from  the  horizon,  the 
rays  strike  (with  this  aspect)  very  quickly  upon  the  plane 
of  the  roof,  which  in  conjunction  with  the  internal  action, 
suddenly  raises  the  temperature,  at  the  time  when  the  ex- 
treme cold,  and  often  severe  winds,  will  not  admit  of  air 
being  given,  consequently  there  is  danger  from  the  quick 
transition  unless  the  greatest  caution  be  exercised.  If  the 
house  face  full  south,  the  sun  at  this  time  will  strike  more 
obliquely  on  the  end,  which  will  to  some  extent  counter- 
act the  evil,  and  there  is  also  an  advantage  in  having 
greater  natural  warmth  later  on  in  the  evening. 

The  following  cross  section,  and  ground  plan,  figs.  4  and  5, 
and  description  of  an  Early  Grapery,  now  in  care  of  and 
erected  under  the  supervision  of  the  writer,  and  which  has 
answered  every  expectation,  may  be  of  service  here,  and 
will  illustrate  our  own  practical  ideas  on  the  subject.  The 
dotted  outline  shows  a  house,  which,  in  this  example  is 
devoted  to  the  growth  of  Camellias,  and,  being  fixed  in 
this  position  does  away  with  the  necessity  of  a  shed,  and 
assists  in  keeping  the  grapery  from  exposure.  The  same 
arrangement  will  apply  where  there  is  a  building  already 
erected,  and  which,  ^ould  become  the  back  wail  of  the 
intended  house. 


HOUSES   AND   CONVENIENCES. 


31 


In  tliis  case  the  house  faces  south,  south-east  (owing  to 
convenience),  with  a  slope  on  the  roof  of  40°,  it  is  78  feet 
long,  Ly  13  feet  wide,  2  feet  high  in  front  from  the  gr<  und 

Fig.  4. 


Fig.  5. 


1 

uJ %                                                                            1 

i  i  i  i  i  t  i  i  i  i  i  i  i  i  i  i  i  i  i  i  i  i  i  i  y .  1 

llltillllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll 

||||I1I<iiiiiiiiiiiiii<^ 

TMIK Ill 

level,  and  14  feet  at  the  hack.  The  foundation  posts  are 
Red  Cedar,  placed  six  feet  apart  and  sunk  four  ^eet  m 
the  ground,  with  the  upper  or  exposed  pari,  Iressed  off 
square,  and  cut  at  the  top  so  as  to  form  an  even  horizontal 
line ;  upon  these  the  wall-plate  is  fixed,  and  made  firm  hy 
being  let  in  about  an  inch,  the  lower  end  of  the  rafters, 
which  are  six  feet  asunder,  and  the  sash  bars  are  sorketed 


32 


THE  GRAPK 


into  the  wall-plate,  and  it  is  made  sufficiently  wide  to 
allow  of  five  inches  projection  on  the  outside,  this  part 
is  scooped  out  on  the  upper  side,  and  becomes  the  gutter, 
by  which  the  water  is  conveyed  to  the  cistern  pipe ;  be- 
side this  there  are  cross  bars  every  four  feet  on  the  length 
of  the  rafters,  that  stay  and  make  the  sash  bars  firm;  venti> 
laiion  is  obtained  by  slides  in  the  front  wood  work,  imme- 
diately beneath  the  wall  plate,  and  by  sashes  2  feet  six  in- 
ches long  and  the  same  width,  fitted  by  hinges  at  the 
ridge  pole,  these  are  lifted  by  a  three-eights  iron  rod, 
having  a  hook  at  the  upper  end  which  is  slipped  through 
a  hole  in  a  small  plate  affixed  to  the  middle  of  the  lower 
end  of  each  sash;  the  rod  is  steadied  by  being  passed 
through  two  apertures  at  the  end  of  a  shaft  three  inches 
long  that  is  welded,  each  into  a  small  plate,  and  this 
Bcrewed  to  the  back  side  of  the  house;  one  about  nine 
feet,  and  the  other  five  feet  from  the  ground.  In  the  front 
of  the  lower  hole  is  a  screw  worm,  and  a  thumb  screw  to 
fit,  which  on  being  turned  either  way  liberates  or  fastens 
the  bar,  and  the  sash  is  kept  firm  at  any  desired  height. 


Fig.  6,  shows  the  sash  open      This  simple  contrivance, 
f*>stp  very  little,  is  ofi  -ctivo,  has  the  advantage  of  novel 


HOUSES  AND  CONVENIENCES.  3b 

getting  out  of  repair,  and  is  as  permanent  as  the  house  it- 
self. It  will  be  understood  that  this  style  of  "building  glasg 
houses,  is  simply  a  frame  work  covered  with  glass,  with- 
out any  double  sash,  and  consequently  there  is  no  use  for 
aiy  additional  portion  of  the  rafter  above  the  sash  bars 
(as  is  the  case  where  the  sashes  are  made  to  slide),  which 
is  a  decided  improvement  in  appearance,  and  equally  suit- 
able. The  house  is  heated  by  one  of  Hitchins'  of  New 
York  middle  sized  boilers,  and  there  is  a  lineal  measure  of 
340  feet  of  four  inch  pipe  employed,  giving  a  double  row 
of  flow  and  return,  beside  the  necessary  appendages.  One 
row  is  fixed  close  along  the  front,  and  the  other  at  ft  dis- 
tance of  seven  feet  nearer  to  the  back,  which  leaves  room 
for  a  pathway,  without  any  dip  in  the  pipe,  and  there  is 
the  additional  advantage  of  having  all  the  heat  arising 
from  the  front,  and  lower  part  of  the  house,  thereby  se- 
curing as  much  as  possible,  an  equal  temperature  over  all 
parts.  There  are  two  rows  of  vines  planted,  one  to  the 
back  wall,  and  the  other  about  a  foot  nearer  to  the  middle 
of  the  house  than  the  front  row  of  pipes,  which  makes  a 
distance  of  eighteen  inches  from  the  extreme  front ;  the 
lower  part  of  each  of  the  roof  vines  is  curved  towards 
the  bottom  of  the  rafters,  and  consequently  project,  partly 
over,  but  are  some  distance  above  the  pipes,  and  to  prevent 
injury  from  the  heat  when  the  apparatus  is  at  work,  there 
is  affixed  behind  each,  a  short  board,  about  ten  inches 
wide,  which  protects  the  stem  most  effectually.  The  ob- 
ject of  this  arrangement  was  to  insure  warmth  in  front, 
and  more  particulary  the  lower  part,  and  at  the  same  time 
with  the  vines  planted  inside.  It  is  a  plan  which  we  have 
not  seen  elsewhere  adopted,  and  was  conceived  from  a  know- 
ledge of  its  being  somewhat  in  accordance  with  natural  re- 
quirements; so  far  it  has  fulfilled  all  that  was  predicted,  and 
wha*.  answers  in  our  own  practice,  may  be  justifiably 
2* 


84 


THE   GRAPE 


recorded,  eren  though  it  should  conflict  with  the  notions 
of  others.  As  to  planting  an  exotic  grape  vine  outside  of 
the  house,  so  long  as  the  roots  have  free  egress,  or  expos- 
ing the  stem  to  the  vicissitudes  of  climate,  such  as  we 
have  in  this  country ;  we  never  yet  saw  the  argumeut 
tften  though  it  has  been  attempted,  and  as  often  eloquent 
ly  advocated,  that  could  bring  conviction,  as  to  its  being 
philosophical,  or  reasonable.  In  nature,  we  find  the  heat 
greatest  near  the  ground,  from  the  fact  of  the  atmosphere 
being  compressed,  and  the  reflection,  which  take  places  by 
the  sun's  rays  striking  the  surface  ;  and  although  we  know 
that  the  stems  of  some  plants  are  injured  by  his  direct  ac- 
tion upon  them  in  hot  weather,  they  are  seldom  affected 
by  the  same  temperature  if  kept  in  the  shade.  This  is  the 
only  explanation  that  will  allow  any  amount  of  advocacy 
in  the  present  instance,  and  it  stands  to  reason  that  it 
» erves  little  purpose. 

Pig.  7. 


Pigs.  7  and  8  will  explain  how  a  suitable  structure  may 
I  *  adapted  by  a  brick  flue  and  furnace,  with  a  shed  at^ 
tiched.  and  it  is  preferable  that  it  should  extend  the 
vhole  length  on  account  of  the  shelter.  As  the  flue  will 
occupy  more  room  than  hot  watei  pipes,  it  is  advisable  te 


HOUSES   AND   CONVENIENCES. 


86 


plant  the  Tines  close  to  the  inside  front;  and  in  making 
calculations,  the  entrance  to  the  house  should  be  elevated 
"o  that  the  pathway  may  pass  over  the  top  of  the  flue 


Fig.  8. 


without  which  it  will  always  be  troublesome  when  walk- 
ing  through  the  house.  This  only  requires  a  little  inge- 
nuity  in  each  individual  case,  according  as  the  details  of 
arrangement  may  suit  the  particular  circumstance. 

Grapery  for  Pot  Culture.— If  a  house  were  to  be 
erected  purposely  for  pot-culture,  the  most  suitable  and 
economical  would  be  as  shown  in  fig.  9;  the  inside  floor- 

Wig.  9. 


Ing  s-ank  a  foot  being  below  the  ground  level,  and  the 
under  base  well  drained  abound  the  outside  founda- 
tion, to  prevent  cold  moisture  from  penetrating  laterally, 


30  THE  GRAPE. 

and  if  the  heating  apparatus  be  fixed  around  th« 
inside,  near  to  the  walls,  there  will  be  an  equal  distribu 
tion  oyer  all  parts.  Such  a  house,  if  only  ten  feet  wide, 
would  accommodate  three  rows  of  vines,  and  leave  room, 
for  a  pathway ;  one  row  being  placed  near  to  the  back 
with  the  path  next,  and  the  other  two  nearer  the  front 
With  this  arrangement,  there  would  be  no  occasion  to 
elevate  the  roof  more  than  to  give  sufficient  headway,  ag 
the  path  would  be  directly  under  the  ridge, — say  six  feet 
above  ground,  and  seven  feet  from  the  inside  level,  by 
which  the  exposure  to  cold,  and  severe  winds  is  consider- 
ably avoided,  and  a  steady  heat  maintained  with  much 
saving  of  fuel.  There  may  be  some  objection  to  the  short 
back  lights,  which  should  be  of  glass,  but  as  these  may  be 
readily  covered  by  shutters  at  night,  and  in  severe  dull 
weather  the  evil  is  less  than  the  common  form  of  lean- 
to,  which  has  to  be  elevated  according  to  the  width  of  the 
house,  and  inclination  of  the  roof.  It  is  only  for  pot  cul- 
ture that  this  will  become  serviceable  in  grape  growing, 
but  for  the  purpose  named,  it  is  most  suitable,  can  bo 
erected  cheap,  and  is  a  compact  and  easily-managed  struc 
ture.  Where  the  house  is  already  built,  or  it  may  be  in 
convenient  to  adopt  the  above  plan,  on  account  of  other- 
wise general  arrangement,  an  ordinary  lean-to,  and  more 
particularly  the  curve  line  will  answer  the  purpose  to 
almost  equal  advantage,  and  the  design  is  only  given  as 
the  best  adapted,  where  the  intention  is  to  be  as  perfect 
as  possible. 

The  Retarding  House. — As  the  object  of  the  retard 
ing  house  is  to  have  grapes  beyond  the  time  Cold 

Grapery,  or  least  forwarded  house  will  furnish  them,  it 
ought  to  be  so  situated  as  to  assist  in  checking  the  early 
growth  of  the  vines,  it  is  also  desirable  that  it  should  be 
capable  of  being  rendered  thoroughly  dry  inside,  and  like 


HOUSES    AND  CONVENIENCES.  3< 

wise  erected  on  a  plan,  by  which  it  may  be  readily  and 
economically  heated,  or  rather  that  the  applied  heat  may 
not  be  wasted,  consequently,  a  lean-to  form  offers  the 
greatest  facilities  as  regards  the  latter,  and  a  west  front  the 
former  requirement.  There  are  several  reasons  why  this 
position  is  preferable.  The  coldest  winds,  more  particularly 
in  the  early  part  of  the  season,  being  from  the  west,  and 
north-west,  there  is  a  better  chance  of  keeping  back  vege- 
tation in  the  spring,  and  of  preventing  the  invigorating 
power  of  the  sun  at  that  time,  thereby  helping  the  vines 
to  rest  for  a  time,  and  retarding  the  buds.  It  is  also  ad- 
visable on  account  of  the  young  and  sappy  growth  being 
liable  to  mildew  during  the  damp  and  close  weather  of 
July  and  August,  at  which  times  this  pest  is  more  than 
usually  prolific,  and  generally  when  the  wind  is  south, 
or  south-east ;  so  that  if  the  house  be  turned,  as  it  were, 
away  from  these  points,  the  influence  is  somewhat  des- 
troyed. It  may  be  thought,  from  these  considerations, 
that  north-west  would  be  better  still, — so  it  would,  but 
for  the  deficiency  of  sun  light  that  in  such  case  would  be 
the  result,  for  under  any  and  all  circumstances,  the  grape- 
vine delights  in  a  free  exposure  to  the  action  of  powerful 
light,  and  without  a  due  proportion,  the  after  growth  will 
not  become  sufficiently  concentrated  to  store  up  the  re 
quired  elaborate  juices,  or  produce  healthy  and  active  roots 
Improvement,  and  greater  perfection  in  all  buildings 
is  now  advancing  with  rapid  strides,  and  these  lean-fa 
glass  houses  are  beginning  to  be  looked  upon  as  obsolete, 
and  whenever,  or  wherever  such  shed-looking  structures 
with  bare  back-walls  can  be,  they  ought  to  be  avoided 
Under  some  circumstances  they  are  better  adapted  to  the 
situation  of  the  garden,  but  it  is  only  where  they  compose 
a  boundary  line  of  a  parallelogram,  and  when  the  back 
part  is  not  seen ;  in  such  positions  they  are  admissible 


38 


THE  GRAPE. 


and,  also,  where  strong  heat  has  to  he  kept  up  all  the 
winter,  hut  there  are  many  instances  where  such  might 
be  avoided  in  outside  appearance,  and  yet  the  inside  re- 
main the  same  in  character,  and  so  with  the  retarding 
house. 

Any  person  who  wishes  to  erect  a  house  for  this  pur 
pose,  is  sure  to  have  one  or  more  graperies,  and  most 
likely  one  for  the  general  summer  crop,  which  is  only 
partially  forwarded;  in  which  case,  a  double  span,  with 
the  ends  north  and  south,  and  divided  longitudinally 
through  the  centre,  would  answer  both  purposes;  the 
west  side  being  used  for  the  late,  and  the  east  for  the 
Pig.  10. 


earlier  crop.  We  do  not  advise  the  east  front  as  the  best 
in  a  general  way,  but  when  it  gives  the  advantages  here 
mentioned,  there  is  no  reason  why  it  may  not  be  adopted, 
and  we  speak  from  experience  in  saying  that  good  grapes 
may  be  grown  as  a  second  early,  or  general  crop,  with  an 
eastern  slope  of  the  roof.  The  annexed  end  section,  fig.  10 
will  explain  better  than  words,  how  such  double  detached 


HOUSE?  AND  CONVENIENCES.  39 

houses  may  be  constructed,  so  as  not  to  show  even  the 
convenience  for  the  heating  apparatus,  further  than  a  door 
to  shut  down  over  the  under-ground  vault,  and  even  this, 
if  thought  objectionable,  may  be  made  to  form  a  part  of 
one  of  the  pathways  inside.  The  example  given  is  an 
arrangement  of,  and  now  under  the  charge  of,  the  writer 
and  answers  admirably.  Hot  water  is  here  used  for  heat 
ing,  but  the  same  is  equally  applicable  to  the  furnace  and 
common  flue,  with  the  difference  of  placing  the  chimney 
at  the  opposite  end. 

Since  the  above  was  written  we  have  been  apprized  of 
a  method  of  ventilating  double  pitch  curvilinear  houses, 
which  has  been  invented  by  Mr.  William  Webster  of 
Rochester,  and  for  which  he  is  about  taking  out  a  patent. 
His  plan  consists  in  having  a  movable  chamber  along  the 
whole  length  upper  part  of  the  house,  and  which  he  can 
lift  or  lower  at  pleasure.  If  the  machinery  can  be  made 
to  work  well  and  kept  in  permanent  order,  he  has  con- 
ferred a  great  benefit  upon  the  public,  and  deserves  the 
thanks  and  support  which  all  such  useful  improvemonti 
aught  to  receive. 


CHAPTER  III. 

ARTIFICIAL   HEAT   AND    APPARATUS. 

In  the  first  stages  of  civilization,  man  was  contented  to 
eat  the  fruits  of  the  earth  as  nature  produced  them  in 
each  division  of  climate,  or  separate  locality,  but  as  luxury 
crept  in,  he  began  to  wish  for  those  of  more  favored  climes 
than  the  one  in  which  he,  in  many  cases,  happened  to  be 
placed.  His  earlier  peregrinations  into  more  southern 
countries  enabled  him  to  see  the  splendor  of  tropical 
flowers,  and  taste  the  luscious  fruits  which  there  abound, 
and  to  enable  him  to  enjoy  these  desirable  additions  at  his 
own  home,  it  became  necessary  to  imitate  as  near  as 
could  be  done,  the  climate  from  whence  they  came ;  and 
here  is  the  first  inducement  to  use  artificial  heat,  which 
though  of  imperfect  character  so  far,  to  a  certain  extent, 
answered  the  purpose.  This  partial  success  set  ingenuity 
to  work,  houses  constructed  partly  of  glass  were  erected, 
and  so  the  thing  has  progressed  from  the  half-glass,  half- 
slate  building,  with  clumsy  stone  or  brick  flue,  to  the 
Crystal  Palace,  and  the  elegantly  modelled  and  scientific 
hot-water  apparatus,  until,  even  in  most  inhospitable 
regions,  the  fruits  and  flowers  of  the  torrid  zone  are  pro 
duced  in  equal,  and  sometimes  superior  quality,  to  that 
which  is  found  in  the  places  to  which  they  are  indigenous ; 
besides  which,  skill  has  so  far  triumphed,  that  by  a  judi- 
cious application,  or  withholding  of  the  artificial  caloric,  a 
succession  of  crops  may  be  had  to  suit  the  desires  of  th* 
meat  fastidious  mind. 

(40) 


ARTIFICIAL  HEAT  AND  APPARATUS.  41 

To  say  the  best  we  can  of  artificial  heat,  it  is  only  a 
necessary  evil,  but  as  we  cannot  do  without  using  it,  we 
ought  to  put  in  practice  the  best  and  most  economical 
method  that  is  at  present  known.  The  only  advantages 
arising  from  this  necessity,  is  the  raising  of  the  tempera- 
ture of,  or  drying  the  atmosphere  in  any  given  house 
under  care,  so  as  to  suit  the  particular  purpose  intended, 
and  so  far,  by  adopting  the  latest  improvements  and  fore- 
casting as  to  what  is  required,  we  can  work  along  with 
comparative  surety.  There  is  no  use  of  entering  into  a 
theoretical  disquisition  of  the  relative  properties  of  caloric, 
nor  of  showing  up  the  science  of  chemistry  in  combustion. 
our  object  is  to  find  out  how  we  can  at  the  least  expense, 
and  with  the  more  certainty,  apply  this  subtle  principle. 
Suffice  it  then  to  say  that  there  are  about  four  ways  in 
which  we  can  adapt  it  to  our  use,  viz. :  by  steam,  hot  water, 
brick  flue,  and  what  may  be  considered  a  modification  of 
the  latter,  the  technical  term  Polmaise 

Steam  is  of  no  practical  use,  ^unless  where  a  large  ex- 
tent of  houses,  all  in  the  immediate  vicinity  are  to  be 
heated,  neither  can  it  be  used  with  any  certainty,  unless 
the  water  is  kept  up  to  the  point  when  the  steam  is  given 
off  in  great  quantity,  so  as  to  force  it  through  the  pipes, 
and  the  heat  along  with  it;  besides  there  is  the  great  dis- 
advantage of  a  want  of  bulk  of  heated  substance,  which  is 
sufficient  reason  why  this  mode  should  not  be  adopted,  for 
on  the  fire  going  down,  the  house  immediately  becomes 
cold,  and  consequently  without  the  most  careful  attention, 
there  is  danger  at  almost  any  moment  in  severe  weather, 
3f  injury  to,  or  the  loss  of  a  crop. 

Hot  Water  has  of  late  years  become,  and  most  deser 
vedly  so,  the  popular  favorite  for  warming  plant  and  fruit 
houses.  This  method  possesses  the  advantage  of  raising 
the  temperature  without  parching  the  air,  or  giving  out 


42  THE   GRAPE. 

any  noxious  gases,  and  if  constructed  on  the  best  plan, 
may  be  placed  on  the  credit  side  c  f  expenses,  there  is  also 
a  steady  heat  in  the  working,  and  a  sufficiency  of  bulk  in 
the  quantity  of  water,  which,  when  once  put  in  motion, 
continues  to  flow  with  increased  or  lessened  velocity,  ac- 
cording as  the  fire  is  kept  up,  and  for  some  time  e\  en 
after  no  further  heat  arises  from  the  furnace.  There  have 
been  different  methods  adopted,  as  reservoirs  for  circula- 
ting hot  water,  such  as  lining  the  inside  of  brick  flues  with 
cement ;  tanks  of  wood  j  tin  or  sheet  iron  troughs,  with 
the  tops  left  loose,  to  be  covered  or  not,  as  circumstances 
may  dictate ;  circular  copper,  tin,  zinc,  and  cast  iron 
pipes.  The  cemented  flue  is  objectionable,  as  the  material 
is  so  non-conducting,  that  there  is  great  loss,  and  the 
cement  is  also  liable  to  crack,  which  causes  leakage.  The 
open  tank,  and  trough  is  well  enough  for  a  propagating 
house,  which  is  generally  small,  and  kept  very  damp,  but 
is  not  suitable  for  a  grapery,  in  which  is  required,  a  moist 
or  dry  atmosphere,  according  to  the  different  stages  of 
growth ;  this  plan  also  occupies  much  space,  and  looks  un- 
sightly. Tin  pipes  are  not  advisable  from  their  tendency 
to  corrode,  and  unendurable  qualities.  Zinc  softens  when 
hot,  and  is  next  to  useless,  copper  if  made  strong  enough 
to  resist  hard  knocks,  and  be  really  serviceable  is  very 
expensive,  so  we  are  driven  to  the  last  substitute,  cast 
iron,  which  answers  every  purpose,  is  lasting,  erected 
comparatively  cheap,  strong,  and  the  different  lengths  are 
readily  cemented,  the  joints  becoming  as  firm  and  tight  as 
any  other  part.  The  construction  of  boilers  for  this  pur 
pose  is  also  various,  and  there  is  a  great  difference  in  the 
consumption  of  fuel,  according  with  the  ratio  of  heat  dis- 
tributed to  the  water.  In  the  most  primitive  boilers,  the 
fire  only  played  on  the  under  surface,  and  the  consequence 
was,  a  great  waste  of  heat,  unless  the  residue  was  con- 


ARTIFICIAL  HEAT   AND   APPARATUS. 


43 


veyed  around  the  house  in  a  flue,  which  almost  nullified 
the  improved  principle;  but  of  late  years  a  great  im- 
provement has  been  accomplised,  so  much  so  as  to  make 
it  almost  perfect. 

Several  ingenious  mechanics  have  given  their  attention 
to  the  subject  of  heating  graperies  and  other  glass  struc- 
tures by  means  of  hot  water,  and  the  result  is  a  number 
of  boilers  remarkably  efficient  in  use  and  economical  of 
fuel.  These  are  complete  in  themselves,  requiring  no 
brick  setting  or  other  mason  work,  but  may  be  brought 

*'ig.  12. 


in  and  set  up  with  scarcely  more  trouble  than  an  ordi- 
nary stove.  The  ash-pit  is  formed  by  the  base  upon 
which  the  boiler  stands.  In  the  different  styles  of  heaters 
much  ingenuity  is  shown  in  presenting  the  greatest 
amount  of  surface  to  the  action  of  the  fire  and  m  securing 
the  rapid  circulation  of  the  water.  The  engravings  11 
and  12  show  one  of  these  heaters,  giving  a  view  of  the 
exterior  and  of  a  section.  The  boiler  in  this  is  double, 
the  water  being  contained  between  the  outside  and  an 
interior  casing;  there  are,  as  will  be  seen  in  the  section, 
internal  connections  also  containing  a  portion  of  the 
water,  thus  presenting  a  vast  extent  of  heating  surface. 


44  THE   GRAPE. 

Boilers  are  made  of  several  sizes,  from  those  capable 
of  heating  a  large  grapery,  down  to  those  suited  for 
small  green-houses  and  plant-cabin  ets. 

Brick  Flues. — Heating  by  brick  flues  is  often  practised 
and  if  they  be  constructed  on  the  best  method,  with  good 
workmanship,  they  answer  very  well ;  the  expense  on 
first  erection  is  less  it  is  true,  but  they  often  want  repair, 
besides  which  they  are  unsightly  and  cumbersome,  and  as 
a  general  thing,  will  consume  more  fuel  than  a  hot-water 
boiler  on  the  above  plan.  If  the  situation,  or  circum- 
stances, make  it  more  convenient  to  burn  wood  instead  of 
coal  or  coke,  then  the  flue  is  to  be  preferred;  in  such  case 
the  furnace  should  be  large,  and  the  draft  be  under  the 
control  of  the  operator,  by  having  a  door  in  front  of  the 
ash-pit,  and  a  damper  in  the  chimney,  which,  when  closed, 
more  or  less,  as  may  be  wished,  will  keep  the  fire  steady. 

There  are  some  cultivators  who  still  cling  to  the  flue  for 
grape-growing,  on  account  of  the  drying  effects  of  the  heat 
evolved,  which,  as  they  assert,  is  of  some  importance  in 
damp  weather,  when  the  grapes  are  coloring,  or  ripe,  and 
that  at  other  times  they  can  use  evaporating  pans.  True, 
it  is  dry  enough,  even  to  parching;  and  were  this  the  only 
time  when  it  would  be  required,  the  flue  would  answer  the 
best  purpose.  But  this  point  is  a  matter  of  very  little 
consideration,  as  the  same  can  be  secured  by  pipes  heated 
with  hot  water.  Nothing  can  be  more  erroneous  than  to 
suppose  that  heat  given  out  on  the  latter  principle  con- 
tains moisture ;  were  it  so,  the  water  would  waste  consid- 
erably through  the  pores  of  the  metal,  which  is  not  the 
case,  for  all  or  nearly  the  whole  of  the  evaporation  which 
takes  place  is  at  the  filling  up  tank,  and  if  this  be  kept 
covered,  the  working  of  a  night  will  not  lessen  the  water 
more  than  a  few  pints.  Heat,  from  whatever  sources  ob- 
tained, will  absorb  moisture,  and  as  glass  houses  are  not 


ARTIFICIAL  HEAT  AND  APPARATUS  45 

hermetically  sealed  glass  bottles,  the  generated  heat  is 
constantly  passing  off  through  the  crevices,  more  particu- 
larly those  in  the  upper  part  of  the  roof,  and  the  moisture 
along  with  it,  The  main  difference,  then,  between  the 
two  is,  that  one  only  raises  the  temperature,  while  the 
other  d\>es  the  same ;  and,  in  addition,  imparts  a  certain 
amount,  of  sulphuretted  hydrogen  and  other  injurious  gases 
that  escape  through  the  joints  and  the  bricks,  in  quantity 
according  to  the  good  or  bad  workmanship,  or  the  porosity 
of  the  material.  "  Smoke  has  thin  shoulders,"  is  an  old 
adage  among  gardeners,  and  we  often  find  it  verified  in 
the  use  of  flues.  Notwithstanding  these  disadvantages, 
good  grapes  may  be  forced  by  flue  heat,  and  in  some  cases 
this  is  the  only  means  at  command;  when  so,  it  is  advisa- 
ble to  make  the  best  arrangement  we  can.  If  a  steady 
and  continuous  heat  be  required,  there  ought  to  be  enough 
room  in  the  furnace  to  hold  a  large  bulk  of  fuel,  and  if  it 
is  situated  somewhat  below  the  level  of  the  flue,  the  heat 
will  flow  more  evenly,  and  disseminate  itself  more  equally, 
as  it  travels  along  with  the  draft,  by  which  a  greater  por- 
tion will  be  absorbed  by  the  bricks,  and  given  off  into  the 
house.  A  small  furnace,  with  a  quick  draft,  is  never  eco- 
nomical, as  a  considerable  portion  of  heat  passes  off  by  the 
chimney  and  is  lost.  A  narrow  and  small  flue  is  also  ob- 
jectionable, as  the  heat  acts  directly  upon  the  mason-work, 
and  the  bricks  become  so  hot  as  to  abstract  the  oxyf  .*»  of 
the  air,  rendering  it  so  devoid  of  moisture  as  riot  to  be  fit 
for  the  leaves  to  respire  in.  To  a  certain  extent,  this  evil 
may  be  counteracted,  by  keeping  shallow  vessels  filled 
with  water  upon  the  flue,  and  damping  the  floor  of  the 
house ;  but  most  of  the  moisture  produced  in  this  way  is 
in  a  vaporous  state,  and  not  in  the  exact  solution  required 
by  the  absorbing  stomata  of  plants.     The  analogy  be 


46  THE   GRAPE. 

tween  plants  aj»d  animals  is  in  this  respect  the  same,  and 
every  body  wb  >  is  possessed  of  ordinary  observation  must 
be  able  to  discern  how  different  is  the  air  that  is  raised  in 
temperature  by  a  red-hot  stove,  even  though  a  vessel  of 
water  be  kep«:  upon  it,  to  what  it  is  when  raised  to  the 
same  tempejature  by  the  sun's  power.  We  also  know, 
that  if  we  w«re  able  to  control  other  circumstances  accord- 
ing to  our  wants  for  the  time  being,  success  would  more 
often  attend  our  operations,  providing  we  could  exactly 
imitate  the  warmth  of  nature.  If  this  be  true,  it  must 
then  be  certainly  to  our  own  interest  to  approach  as  near 
as  we  can  to  this  desideratum.  To  come  to  our  point,  a 
capacious  flue  gives  a  greater  surface  exposed  to  the  ao 
t;on  of  the  he?t,  without  becoming  hot  enough  to  bring 
about  so  much  chemical  action  as  to  burn  the  air  inside  of 
the  house,  while  a  small  one  is  sure  to  do  so,  at  any  rate, 
in  that  part  next  to  the  furnace.  To  be  effectual  in  this 
respect,  a  flue  ought  not  to  be  less  thai  eighteen  inches 
high,  by  twelve  inch°.s  wide  in  the  clear ;  and  if  raised  up 
by  placing  supports  lnderneath  at  intervals  on  the  length, 
with  fire-proof  tiles  to  form  the  bottom,  so  much  the  better, 
as  it  then  is  free  to  give  out  the  heaf.  on  all  sides.  The 
furnace  'Jught  to  be  not  ^esv  than  eighteen  inches  wida,  and 
equal  height,  independert  of  the  arch  above,  and  two  feet 
long.  A  furnace  of  these  dimensions  is  qualified  to  work 
a  house  of  forty  to  fifty  feet  long,  by  twelve  or  fourteen 
feet  wide,  the  flue  being  conducted  along  the  front  and  two 
ends.  Double  the  length  will  reed  two  fires,  and  so  on  in 
proportion.  When  two  furnaces  are  required,  there  may 
he  one  piaced  at  each  end  of  the  house,  and  conveyed  to 
the  same  chimney,  midway  in  the  back  wail,  so  as  to  unite 
into  one  outlet;  but  in  such  case  there  ou^ht  to  be  an 
•cute  lex  el  upwards  at  the  place  of  union,  cr  the  twe 


ARTIFICIAL  HEAT   AND  APPARATUS. 


47 


opposite  currents  are  subject  to  check  the  even  flow  of  the 
smoke,  and  drive  it  back. 

The  Polmaise  method  of  heating  is  a  plan  that  origin- 
ated with  a  Mr.  Murray,  of  Polmaise,  in  Scotland,  and,  like 
many  other  ingenious  contrivances,  was  the  result  of  pecu 
liar  necessity.  At  the  time  of  its  introduction,  it  caused  a 
great  furor  amongst  the  seekers  after  novelties,  and  like 
the  fugacious  follies  of  such  persons,  it  soon  fell  into  dis- 
repute with  all,  excepting  those  who  were  determined  not 
to  acknowledge  their  error.  To  say  the  best  we  can  in 
its  favor,  it  is  only  a  modified  flue.  The  principle,  if  so  it 
may  be  called,  consists  in  having  a  hot  air  chamber  over 
and  outside  the  furnace,  and  conducting  the  heat  therein 
generated  through  one  or  more  apertures  into  the  house  at 
one  end,  and  at  the  other  having  a  hole  level  with  the 
floor,  which  forms  the  top  of  a  drain  that  is  conducted 
along  under  ground  to  the  furnace,  and  which  supplies  the 
fire  with  fresh  air  to  support  combustion.  By  these  means 
the  heat  from  the  chamber  is  drawn  through  the  house, 
and  a  partial  current  produced,  and  from  this  it  was  at 
first  predicted  that  a  great  benefit  would  arise,  on  account 
of  the  near  imitation  to  nature's  invigorating  breezes.  If 
glass  was  not  a  rapid  conductor  of  heat,  this  plausible 

theory  might  have 
been  a  practical 
good ;  but  as  it  is, 
and  as  heat  will 
ascend,  in  opposi- 
tion to  such  a  weak 
power  to  repress 
it,  a  great  portion 
flows  along  at  the 
top  and  back  part 
of  the  house,  leav. 


Fig.  13. 


iS 


THE  GRAPE. 


Fig.  14 


mg  the  lower  part,  or  front,  cold ;  which,  if  there  be  a  dif- 
ference, ought  to  be  the  warmest.  The  only  way  in  which 
this  plan  can  be  tolerated,  or  be  of 
advantage,  is,  to  combine  the  cham 
ber  and  flue,  and  make  use  of  both 
This  is  economizing,  as  the  whole 
of  the  heat  which  radiates  from  both 
sources  is  made  available.  Figs.  13 
and  14  show  a  longitudinal  and 
transverse  cross  section  of  both  com- 
bined. 

In  concluding,  we  may  say,  that 

after  many  years'  practice  with  most 

kinds  of  heating  apparatus  for  hot-houses,  we  are  thor 

oughly  convinced  that  none  is  60  efficient  or  economical 

as  hot  water. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

BORDERS  OR  PREPARED  BEDS. 

The  formation  cf  beds,  or  more  technically  borders,  in 
which  to  grow  the  grape  vine  is  of  great  importance,  per- 
haps more  so  than  any  other  portion  of  the  whole  routine 
of  culture,  for  without  a  proper  matrix  in  which  the  root* 
may  luxuriate,  it  is  impossible  to  succeed. 

The  more  important  any  branch  of  horticulture  is,  often 
the  greater  the  number  of  opinions  respecting  it.  This  is 
strictly  true,  in  the  present  instance.  Some  have  advo- 
cated the  admixture  of  great  quantities  of  raw  animal  car- 
casses, in  such  quantities,  and  large  masses,  that  one  would 
think,  if  their  reasoning  were  true,  that  a  recently  filled 
cholera  burial-ground,  would  be  the  best  place  on  which 
to  erect  a  grapery,  or  plant  a  vineyard.  Others  again 
have  recommended  large  doses  of  blood,  and  the  stink- 
ing offal  of  slaughter-houses,  in  so  fresh  a  state  that  the 
very  idea  is  enough  to  nauseate  the  strongest  stomach, 
and  forbid  the  cultivation  of  this  luscious  fruit.  Fortu- 
nately these  materials  are  not  required,  although  when 
thoroughly  decomposed  and  well  mixed  with  maiden  earth, 
there  is  no  objection  to  the  using  of  a  portion  incorporated 
through  the  mass.  It  often  happens  when  thus  applied, 
that  a  very  vigorous  growth  is  produced  for  a  time,  bul 
sufficient  strength  can  be  had  without  these  stinking  nui- 
sances. If  used  at  all,  it  should  be  in  the  form  of  top- 
dressings  in  after  years,  and  forked  in,  by  which  the  fer- 
tility will  be  assisted,  without  making  the  whole  bed  into 
3  (40) 


50  THE   GRAPE. 

an  unctuous  paste,  more  fit  to  puddle  a  duct  pond  with, 
than  for  the  tender  and  fleshy  roots  of  the  grape  vine  to 
luxuriate  in.  If  proof  of  this  were  wanted,  there  are 
plenty  of  examples  if  they  were  to  be  examined,  where 
the  roots  that  have  come  into  contact  with  these  masses 
of  soap-like  substances,  before  they  were  thoroughly  de- 
composed, have  been  found  quite  rotten,  and  if  the  vines 
have  continued  to  do  well,  it  is  not  from  the  nutriment 
derived  from  them,  but  from  their  ready  adaptability  to 
form  fresh  spongeoles  from  the  back  roots,  which  may 
have  travelled  in  other  directions,  and  with  good  treat- 
ment added. 

The  advocates  of  this  putrid  animal  matter,  contend  for 
the  greater  invigorating  powers  and  more  lasting  proper 
ties,  than  is  to  be  found  in  barnyard  manure,  or  decayed 
vegetable  substances.  To  the  first  we  will  agree,  pro- 
viding the  stimulating  portions  be  administered  in  a  proper 
manner,  and  here  ends  this  part  of  the  difference ;  but  how 
it  is  to  be  more  lasting,  is  another  part  of  the  subject.  It  is 
a  well-known  fact,  that  highly  nitrogenized  manures,  during 
decomposition,  give  off  vei  v  freely  the  volatile  ammonia  con- 
tained in  them,  and  as  this  is  a  great  stimulant  to  vegeta- 
tion during  active  development,  it  is  easily  seen  how  such 
wonderful  effect  is  produced  ;  as  this  exciting  principle, 
from  its  evanescent  properties,  porcolates  into  every  aper- 
ture in  its  escape,  and  no  doubt  a  portion  is  taken  up  in  a 
gaseous  state  by  the  young  and  readily  absorbing  spon- 
geoles. But  does  it  follow,  that  this  is  any  proof  of  pei* 
nanent  action.  Judging  from  the  premises  it  would  appear 
the  very  reverse,  and  the  frequent  use  of  other  manures 
of  a  similar  character — guano,  for  instance — have  clearly 
demonstrated,  that  oft-repeated  applications  with  occa- 
sional additions  of  carbonaceous  organic  bulk,  and  other 
inorganic  assistance,  have  to  be  applied  to  maintain  fer 


BORDERS  OR  PRErARED  BEDS.        51 

tility,  where  the  same  spot  is  constantly  cropped.  In  the 
present  subject  we  are  precisely  in  this  position,  and  there 
ought  to  be  great  regard  for  the  future  constitutional 
power,  if  a  healthy  after-life  be  cared  for,  which  is  not  to 
be  acquired  by  the  excessive  quantity  of  these  helps 
that  only  act  upon  the  vegetable,  in  the  same  manner 
as  do  alcoholic  drinks  upon  the  human  system.  All  our 
best  physicians  acknowledge  the  good  effects  of  stimu- 
lants in  particular  kinds  of  disease,  when  administered 
with  skill,  and  everybody  knows  how  soon  the  strongest 
constitution  is  broken  down  by  the  great  quantities  that 
too  many  indulge  in.  So  it  is  with  the  grape  vine ;  we 
all  commence  with  endeavoring  to  gain  strong,  and  more 
than  natural  growth,  but  there  certainly  is  no  reason  why 
we  should  keep  our  plants  in  a  continual  state  of  intoxica 
tion,  from  the  moment  of  their  first  awaking  in  the  spring, 
till  they  finally  rest  on  the  approach  of  winter,  and  still 
leaving  the  same  baneful  influence,  to  diffuse  itself  over 
the  whole  outer  surface  of  the  roots  (which  are  equivalent 
to  the  mouths  of  animals),  until  the  next  season's  warmth 
again  arouses  their  action.  We  would  not  by  any  means 
have  it  understood,  that  we  are  opposed  to  the  judicious 
use  of  ammonia,  or  any  of  the  other  compounds  that  are 
to  be  found  in  more  abundance  in  the  animal,  than  in  the 
vegetable  body ;  but  do  protest  against  the  inordinate 
mixture  of  such,  often  to  the  exclusion  of  other,  and  more 
necessary  bases,  and  which  leaves  the  plant  after  a  few 
years  of  undue  excitement,  a  prey  to  disease  and  prema 
tu re  decay.  If  success  has  seemed  to  attend  the  progres 
in  some  instances,  the  failures  have  been  much  greater 
and  unprejudiced  experience  shows,  that  more  injury  than 
benefit  has  arisen  from  the  admixture  of  animal  matter, 
even  in  small  quantities,  and  in  anything  like  a  fresh  state. 
These  remarks  are  only  intended  to  apply  to  the  flethj 


52  THE   GRAPE. 

and  quickly  putrefying  portions  of  the  animal  body,  with 
out  any  reference  to  the  bones.  Here  we  will  subscribe 
to  the  recommendation,  because  it  is  consistent  with  na- 
ture, and  furnishes  along  with  other  useful  properties,  the 
often  most  wanting  requirement,  lime;  in  this  all  grape 
growers  are  agreed,  and  the  invariable  prosperity  of  our 
pet,  in  places  where  limestone  abounds  among  the  soil, 
produces  the  most  conclusive  evidence.  There  is  little 
doubt  but  the  want  of  this  substance  is  the  reason  why 
some  of  our  vignerons  have  occasion  to  complain  of  rot 
and  want  of  success  in  various  ways ;  and  here  we  may 
ask,  whoever  saw  a  grape  vine  that  did  not  do  well,  and 
produce  fruit  of  good  quality,  providing  the  climate  was 
suitable,  and  the  roots  could  creep  along  under  the  soil, 
and  lie  upon  the  surface  or  in  the  fissures  of  a  limestone 
rock. 

There  are  other  persons  who  make  the  beds  from  three 
to  four  feet  deep  of  suitable  materials,  but  use  such  quan- 
tities of  the  richer  quality,  with  insufficient  drainage,  that 
the  whole  bulk,  after  a  time,  becomes  sodden,  and  imper- 
vious to  either  sun  or  air,  iu  which  no  root  can  exist,  much 
less  extend  itself.  These  are  some  of  the  many  causes 
why  our  graperies  so  soon  become  weak  and  unproduc- 
tive; yet  the  natural  constitutional  powers  of  the  grape 
vine  are  very  strong,  and  of  great  longevity ;  it  is  a  gross 
feeder  and  can  absorb  a  large  amount  of  food,  but  when 
thus  maltreated,  although  it  may  bear  such  usage  for  a 
time  with  much  pertinacity,  it  will  in  the  long  run  (l'ke  an 
overgorged  glutton)  become  deranged,  its  physical  func 
lions  will  be  weakened,  and  it  either  dies  of  plethora,  01 
wears  on  an  exhausted  existence,  producing  little  or  noth- 
ing but  watery  leaves,  and  weakly  branches. 

If  such  very  strong  growth  were  really  requisite  to  pro- 
duce the  finest  bunches,  or  berries,  and  could  be  obtained 


BORDERS  OR  PREPARED  BEDS.         53 

by  these  means,  there  would  be  some  excuse  for  thus 
abusing  nature ;  but  such  is  not  the  fact,  for  tbe  most 
superior  and  best  flavored  fruit,  is  had  from  solid,  well 
lipened,  and  vigorous,  but  not  over-fed  wood.  When  the 
bearing  shoots  are  unduly  strong,  there  are  frequently 
two  or  more  developed  from  a  bud,  while  with  moderate 
growth  only  one  is  formed,  and  as  each  of  these  buds 
having  received  its  share  of  nutriment,  wherewith  to  start 
future  development,  thus  takes  from  the  others  a  portion, 
the  consequence  must  be  (as  only  one  can  remain)  a  weaker 
action  at  first,  and  correspondingly  less  power  afterwards, 
than  would  be  the  case  if  there  was  only  one  centr6. 
The  bunches  emenating  from  such  a  bud,  will  also  contain 
generally  a  greater  number  of  florets,  and  shoulders,  equal 
to  the  concentrated  accumulation  in  the  embryo  shoot ; 
for  it  is  formed  previous  to  bursting,  and  before  the  leaf 
of  the  previous  season  falls,  in  the  axil  of  which  it  is  fixed 

In  all  cases  of  permanent  success,  the  grape  vine  luxu 
riates  upon  a  naturally,  or  artificially  well-drained  bottom. 
It  is  best  suited  in  warm,  and  comparatively  dry  climates, 
and  the  constitution  which  nature  has  fixed,  man  cannot 
alter.  We  must  then  adapt  as  near  as  we  can,  its  position 
in  cultivation  to  its  wants,  and  if  we  produce  artificially  a 
greater  than  ordinary  amount  of  growth,  we  ought  to  have 
a  corresponding  medium  whereby  to  mature  that  growth. 
Well-drained  borders  is  one  of  the  means  by  which  this 
can  be  accomplished,  as  the  superabundant  moisture  is 
taken  away,  and  the  air  and  the  sun's  heat  can  more 
readily  penetrate  the  soil.  If  the  following  directions  are 
followed,  there  will  be  no  reason  to  complain  of  want  of 
success  on  this  point. 

Take  out  to  the  depth  of  two  feet,  the  whole  of  the  up- 
per surface,  then  dig  a  trench  two  feet  wide  and  one  foot 
deep,  with  one  or  more  outlet  for  the  water  to  escape  all 


54  THE  GRAPE. 

around  the  margin  of  the  excavated  space,  which  will 
form  a  drain,  three  feet  deep  from  the  top,  and  one  foot 
below  the  lower  base  of  the  borders ;  fill  this  trench  with 
rough  stones,  or  brick-bats,  the  rougher  the  better ;  after- 
wards fill  in  over  the  whole  surface,  about  six  inches  of 
:yster,  or  other  marine  shells  if  to  be  had  readily,  but  if 
not,  broken  stones,  or  pieces  of  brick  and  lime  rubbish 
will  answer,  and  if  a  quantity  of  broken  bones  are  to  be 
got,  strew  them  over  the  top  of  the  other  drainage ;  cover 
this  with  turf-sods,  or  any  rough  litter,  to  prevent  the  soil 
from  falling  through  and  among  tne  drainage,  and  throw 
in  the  prepared  compost  to  one  toot  above  the  top  level ; 
this  will  give  a  depth  of  three  feet,  which  will  settle  down 
about  six  inches,  leaving  the  permanent  depth  two  feet 
six  inches,  viz.:  two  feet  below  and  six  inches  above  the 
ground  level. 

In  some  situations  the  original  base  will  be  a  dead  level, 
when  the  excavated  surface  ought  to  slope  from  the  house 
towards  the  outside  of  the  borders,  which  will  cause  the 
water  to  run  the  more  readily  towards  the  lower  drains. 
Care  should  be  taken  in  this  respect,  whatever  the  level 
may  be,  that  the  bottom  is  so  arranged  as  to  allow  the 
water  to  escape  freely  ;  the  means  of  securing  which  will 
occur  to  any  ordinary  mind,  according  to  the  level  he  may 
have  to  deal  with. 

It  may  be  thought,  that  with  this  amount  of  drainage, 
and  raised,  and  not  over  deep  borders,  the  soil  will  be- 
come too  dry  throughout  the  summer  to  maintain  vigorous 
growth,  but  experience  testifies  to  the  contrary,  for  al- 
though the  under  parts  will  not  be  over  wet,  the  moist. ire 
is  equally  divided  through  the  whole,  and  if  the  upper 
surface  be  mulched,  examination  will  prove  that  every 
portion  is  equally  damn,  and  the  innumerable  small  root- 
lets  are  ramifying   in   every  direction,  each  taking  its 


BORDERS  OR  PREPARED  BEDS.         55 

allotted  portion  of  work,  to  supply  the  structure  of  the 
plant  with  wholesome  food.  Effectual  drainage  lias  not 
antil  lately  received  that  share  of  attention  among  culti- 
vators generally  which  its  benefits  ought  to  command,  and 
even  at  the  present  day,  there  is  a  great  want  of  proper 
understanding  respecting  it.  To  a  person  who  is  contented 
to  go  along  scratching  over  the  ground,  sowing  seed,  and 
leaving  the  rest  to  Nature,  it  is  a  difficult  problem  to 
solve,  how  the  conducting  away  water  in  land  that  is 
already  too  dry  and  hard  in  summer  can  be  of  any  ser- 
vice. Thanks  to  science  and  agricultural  chemistry,  this 
is  now  made  so  clear,  by  having  been  so  often  explained, 
with  examples  here  and  there  as  proofs,  that  the  mystery 
is,  how  men  can  still  remain  so  blind  to  their  own  interests, 
or  entertain  any  prejudice  against  what  has  been  so  prac 
tically  demonstrated. 

Although  it  is  recommended  above  to  make  the  whole 
of  the  borders  at  once,  which  is  only  one  trouble  and  ex- 
pense, and  will  answer  very  well ;  yet  it  is  much  better 
to  prepare  the  drainage  as  advised,  and  make  only  half, 
viz. :  that  part  next  to  the  house,  of  properly  prepared 
compost,  filling  in  the  other  with  the  intended  base  soil 
a  little  enriched,  and  after  the  first  season's  growth,  work 
up  in  the  following  fall,  into  the  half  of  the  unfinished 
portion,  the  same  quantity  of  fertilizing  materials  as  the 
former  half  was  mixed  with.  In  the  spring,  before  grow- 
ing commences,  this  may  be  again  forked  over,  which  will 
incorporate  all  more  evenly,  and  the  next  fall  the  remain- 
ing quarter  may  be  done  likewise.  By  this  method  the 
borders  are  kept  loose  for  a  longer  time,  the  air  is  more 
freely  admitted,  and  the  whole  is  better  adapted  for  the 
healthy  progress  of  the  roots,  which,  as  they  extend  from 
year  to  year  will  penetrate  more  readily,  and  fill  ever) 
portion.     The  tendency  to  become  solid,  is  much  reduced 


66  THE   GRAPE. 

aftei  the  borders  "become  filled  with  roots,  as  they  are  always 
more  or  less  drawing  nutriment  and  moisture,  thereby 
rendering  the  base  soil  more  porous,  when  the  gases  of  the 
atmosphere,  which  are  very  beneficial,  have  a  chance  of 
occupying  the  interstices,  and  forming  chemical  combi- 
uations  with  the  material ;  thereby  producing  a  continual 
renewal  of  suitable  food  for  the  support  of  vegetable  life. 
We  have  ample  proofs  of  the  correctness  of  this,  and  where 
borders  are  constructed  as  above  advised,  there  will  be  an 
admission  of  air,  not  only  from  the  openings  to  the  drains 
and  from  them  under  the  whole  bed,  but  also  from  above. 

It  is  not  by  administering  such  enormous  doses  of  stimu- 
lating, or  fertilizing  material  all  at  once,  and  before  the 
roots  have  progressed  in  sufficient  numbers,  or  distance,  to 
appropriate  it  to  their  use,  that  we  are  to  calculate  upon 
the  most  permanent  results,  or  immediate  success.  So 
long  as  we  supply  from  time  to  time  what  is  required,  it  is 
jough,  and  if  we  have  got  well  drained  and  porous  bor- 
ders, we  can  the  more  readily  apply  top-dressings  and 
mulchings  in  after  years,  without  injury,  or  covering 
•he  roots  too  deep  ;  for  if,  in  efficiently  drained  ground,  a 
layer  of  dung  be  spread  over  the  surface,  it  will  be  found 
fter  a  time,  that  there  is  little  but  dry  chaff  left,  all  the 
soluble  parts  having  been  washed  by  the  rains  down  into 
the  soil  below,  and  the  plants  will  have  received  the  bene- 
fit of  it. 

With  regard  to  the  width  of  these  borders  there  are 
many  opinions,  and  different  persons  have  been  led  by 
the  dictation  of  fancy  into  dogmatic  assertion,  without 
duly  considering  the  requirements  of  nature.  Now,  if  we 
take  this  for  our  guide,  and,  generally  speaking,  it  is  the 
best  reasoner,  we  must  provide  a  large  superficial  area; 
for  the  roots  of  the  grape  vine  are  great  travellers,  and 
will  if  allowed  their  owi.  way,  extend  over  much  space, 


BORDERS   OR   rR^PARHID   iJ^Db.  57 

consequently  free  egress  and  plenty  of  room  must  cer- 
tainly be  essential,  where  the  intention  is  to  retain  unin- 
terrupted fertility  for  a  long  time  ;  beside  which  we  ought 
to  consider  the  close  proximity  of  the  vines  as  they  are 
most  commonly  planted,  and  it  then  becomes  still  more 
evident  that  we  ought  not  to  be  penurious  in  this  respect. 
Our  own  recommendation  is  to  make  them  ten  feet  wide 
at  the  commencement,  add  five  feet  more  the  next  season, 
and  five  feet  again  the  year  following,  making  a  total  of 
twenty  feet,  which  will  give  ample  space  for  a  long  time  ; 
but  if  success  should  attend  the  same  stock  some  ten  or 
fifteen  years,  and  the  roots  at  the  end  of  that  time  are 
found  so  closely  interwoven,  as  to  be  in  want  of  more  ex- 
tension, it  would  be  advisable  to  add  another  five  feet,  so 
that  in  making  first  designs,  it  is  well  to  forecast  after  ne- 
cessaries. Many  will,  no  doubt,  think  that  this  is  a  waste 
of  land  that  might  be  turned  to  advantage  in  other  ways, 
and  others  may  not  have  so  much  ground  at  command  for 
the  purpose.  As  to  the  first  objection,  it  may  be  answered 
by  the  simple  question  of,  what  more  paying  crop  can  be 
put  on  the  added  fifteen  square  feet  that  will  be  required 
for  each  vine,  than  the  increase  of  two  or  three  pounds  ot 
good  exotic  grapes,  beside  the  benefit  secured  by  retain- 
ing the  natural  longevity  of  the  plant,  where  considerable 
capital  has  been  invested  at  the  outset  in  erecting  a  suita- 
ble house.  In  the  latter  case  there  is  the  opportunity  of 
reducing  the  number  of  vines  inside,  and  extending  the 
branches  of  those  left  so  as  to  keep  the  whole  roof  covered 
thereby  giving  more  root  room  individually.  The  very 
common  notion,  that  a  grape  vine  is  so  often  worn  out 
deserves  to  be  classed  with  the  things  that  were, — depend 
upon  it,  if  all  its  wants  are  duly  supplied,  and  the  house 
lubstantially  erected,  a  grapery  may  be  left  as  a  legacy 
3* 


68  THE   GRAPE. 

to  our  offspring,  instead  of  being,  as  it  too  fre  juently  is, 
only  calculated  to  become  tlie  pleasure  of  a  few  years. 

The  most  suitable  materials  for  composing  the  borders 
are,  a  good  friable  loam  (the  top  sod,  grass  included,  of  a 
pasture),  with  a  suitable  quantity  of  partly  decomposed 
gtablo  manure,  in  proportions  of  one-fourth  of  the  latter 
to  three-fourths  of  the  former,  and  a  good  dressing  of 
broken  or  ground  up  bones,  say  one  bushel  to  every  cubic 
yard  in  bulk.  If  the  soil  contains  much  lime  in  its  own 
base,  the  bones  may  be  dispensed  with,  but  generally  they 
are  of  much  benefit,  being  a  very  lasting  manure,  giving 
out  slowly,  and  when  all  the  phosphates  are  exhausted 
they  still  remain  as  a  carbonate  of  lime,  among  which 
the  grape  vine  delights. 

When  the  base  soil,  where  the  house  is  to  be  erected,  is 
of  the  above  nature,  it  may  be  used,  and  the  other  mate- 
rials added  on  the  spot,  which  will  save  expense.  There 
is  often  much  useless  expenditure  caused  in  this  way. 
Never  remove  away  the  existing  base  unless  absolutely 
bad,  excepting  with  little  outlay,  a  much  better  substitute 
can  be  procured  ;  for  by  good  mixing  of  the  fertilizing 
matter  and  drainage  to  correspond,  a  poor  soil  may  in 
many  instances  be  made  good,  and  often  when  it  is  consi- 
dered impracticable,  most  likely  all  that  is  required.  Im- 
perfect drainage  is  frequently  the  cause  that  prevents 
success,  when  it  is  attributed  to  an  unsuitable  constituent 
base.  The  grape  vine  is  not  so  capricious  in  its  food  as  is 
generally  supposed,  but  a  dry  bottom  it  must  and  will  have 
in  prosper 


OHAPTEB    V 

PLANTING    AND    MANAGEMENT   TIIK 
FIRST     YEAR. 

In  choosing  vines  for  planting,  see  that  the  wood  is 
well  ripened  and  solid,  and  the  roots  clean  and  healthy. 
One  year  old,  propagated  from  the  eye  are  best  for  the 
grapery,  or  from  cuttings  for  the  vineyard,  but  those  of 
two  years  are  not  objectionable.  The  most  proper  time 
for  planting  is  about  the  beginning  of  March,  under  glass. 
or  so  soon  as  the  ground  is  in  good  working  order,  out  of 
doors,  when  the  vines  have  not  been  prematurely  started 
into  growth,  as  they  are  then  just  commencing  to  move 
from  a  long  repose,  and  have  no  great  time  to  remain  in 
their  new  quarters  before  fresh  rootlets  begin  to  push 
forth.  When  deferred  much  longer,  these  fibres  are  sub 
ject  to  injury,  being  very  brittle.  If  the  vines  have  been 
grown  in  pots,  which  is  generally  the  case,  with  the  ex- 
otics, the  soil  ought  to  be  entirely  shaken  from  them,  and 
the  entangled  roots  carefully  straightened  out,  care  being 
used  when  planted,  that  they  are  spread  in  all  directions 
diverging  from  the  stem.  After  loosening  up  well,  and 
smoothing  over  the  surface  around  on  the  base,  where  it  ig 
intended  to  fix  them,  have  in  readiness  a  quantity  of  the 
same  material  as  the  border  is  composed  of,  broken  up 
fine  and  mixed  with  a  third  portion  of  leaf-mould,  if  to  be 
had — if  not,  it  is  not  of  much  consequence,  but  the  young 
rootlets  soon  lay  hold  of  it,  and  a  good  start  is  half  the 
battle.     Strew  two  inches  of  this  compost  over  the  but- 


60  THE   GRAPE. 

face,  place  the  plant  thus  spread  out  upon  it,  and  C3ve» 
with  three  inches  of  the  same  mould.  It  will  be  under- 
stood that  this  mode  of  procedure  will  elevate  the  crowns 
of  the  roots  a.  trifle  above  the  general  level,  which  will 
prove  advantageous  afterwards,  as  a  top-dressing  can  be 
added  without  their  being  buried  down  below  the  surface 
Avoid  deep  planting  in  all  cases,  for  it  leads  to  cankered 
roots,  and  places  them  out  of  the  reach  of  the  warming 
influence  of  the  sun,  and  the  exhilirating  action  of  the 
air,  both  of  which  are  as  beneficial  to  them  as  are  light  and 
heat  to  the  leaves  and  branches.  It  is  not  to  be  expected 
that  this  particularity  can  be  applied  to  the  vineyard,  but 
so  far  as  can  be  done  economically,  the  same  rule  holds 
good.  Before  planting,  cut  off  the  top  of  the  plant  to 
about  six  or  nine  inches,  or  down  to  two  or  three  good 
buds.  The  advantage  of  leaving  more  than  one  being 
the  choice  it  gives  of  retaining  the  most  promising  when 
started,  when  all  the  worst  can  be  rubbed  off. 

It  is  sometimes  inconvenient  to  plant  at  the  time  above 
recommended  from  some  local  cause,  in  which  case,  the 
plants  may  be  removed  into  pots,  if  so  situated,  of  a 
larger  size  than  those  that  they  were  previously  in,  put  to 
grow  in  some  other  house,  and  attended  to  as  regards 
heat  and  moisture,  in  the  same  manner  as  if  in  their  final 
resting  place ;  as  the  young  shoots  progress  in  growth, 
they  will  require  to  be  carefully  tied  to  a  stake  fixed  up 
right  in  each  pot,  and  as  the  roots  increase,  larger  sized 
pots  will  be  requisite  to  prevent  them  becoming  pot-bound, 
by  which  the  vigor  is  consideraby  checked.  By  attending 
to  these  points,  they  may  be  kept  on  till  June  or  July, 
after  which,  if  carefully  turned  out  of  the  pots,  without 
disturbing  the  roots  any  more  than  can  be  avoided,  a  good 
cane  may  be  obtained  the  same  season,  though  not  often 
strong  enough  to  bear  fruit  the  following  summer:  but 


PLANTING   ANL    MANAGEMENT.  61 

which,  if  planted  in  March,  can  generally  be  accomplished 
After  planting,  give  a  good  soaking  of  water  to  settle  the 
soil  around  the  roots,  but  do   not  allow  it  to  become  satu- 
rated afterwards  by  too  oft  repeated  applications,  the  ob- 
ject being  to  keep  it  moderately  moist,  but  not  sodden,  a? 
he  tender  roots  are  soon  rotted  when  not  drawing  freely 
If  the  vines  have  been  prematurely  started  into  growth, 
which  is  not  desirable ;  or  it  is  thought  fit  to  plant  those 
that  have  been  raised  from  the  eye  the  same  spring,  the 
planting  ought  to  be  deferred  till  the  middle  of  April,  or 
beginning  of  May,  even  though  the  house  may  be  ready 
in  due  time ;  for  if  planted  sooner,  they  would,  under  such 
circumstances,  receive  a  sudden  check,  from  their  bein» 
removed  into  a  much  colder  atmosphere  than  the  one  they 
had  previously  occupied,  and  which  would  militate  vp.vy 
much  against  their  future  prosperity,  if  not  be  the  cause 
of  failure. 

We  will  now  suppose  that  the  house  is  planted  and  all 
ready  for  a  favorable  beginning.  For  the  first  two  or 
three  weeks  keep  all  as  close  and  cool  as  possible,  only 
giving  sufficient  air  to  lower  the  temperature.  After  this 
time  the  house  may  be  kept  a  little  warmer,  and  the  vines 
syringed  overhead  two  or  three  times  a-day.  Do  not  yet 
apply  much  water  to  the  roots,  only  maintaining  moisture 
enough  to  keep  the  soil  damp,  without  becoming  soaked. 
as  they  have  not  yet  got  into  brisk  action,  and  conse- 
quently cannot  draw  much  of  it  up.  Avoid  dry  winds, 
and  retain  a  moist  atmosphere,  allowing  the  thermometer 
to  rise  from  70°  to  75°  in  the  middle  of  the  day.  By  the 
middle  of  April  the  buds  will  be  mostly  started,  rub  off 
all  but  the  strongest  one,  and  mind  that  it  is  not  injured, 
or  the  top  broken  out.  As  the  young  growth  continues  to 
extend,  the  paths,  and  the  whole  interior  of  the  house,  and 
likewise  the  plants,  should  be  damped  with  the  syringe  ot 


62  THE   GRAPE. 

hose  laornhig  and  ending,  and  during  dry  weather  in  the 
middle  of  the  day,  avoiding  the  application  in  the  brightest 
gun  shine.  Do  not  give  any  bottom  air  until  a  vigorous 
and  strong  action  is  obtained,  and  not  then  without  great 
caution,  for  it  causes  cold  drafts  in  the  lower  parts  of  the 
house  and  checks  growth,  rendering  the  vines  subject  to 
mildew.  Shut  up  early  to  retain  a  genial  warmth  before 
sunset,  and  gradually  increase  the  temperature,  so  that  at 
the  beginning  ot  May  the  thermometer  may  stand  at  90° 
at  mid-day ;  in  cloudy  weather  keep  all  closed  and  en- 
deavor to  keep  as  steady  a  heat  as  possible.  By  the  latter 
end  of  the  month,  the  vinos  ought  to  be  growing  vigor- 
ously :  tie  the  canes  up  carefully  as  they  progress,  leaving 
the  ties  somewhat  loose  to  give  room  for  after  swelling, 
and  as  the  laterals  piuh,  pinch  them  off  to  one  joint,  re- 
serving one  or  two  entire  at  the  top  at  each  pinching  in 
case  of  accident  to  the  leader,  and  likewise  take  clean  out 
the  lower  ones,  or  those  last  left  with  one  leaf,  at  each 
future  operation.  By  th.s  mode  of  proceedure  they  are 
gradually  reduced,  and  finally  taken  away,  without  endan- 
gering the  bursting  of  tie  buds  in  the  axil  of  the  leaf- 
stalks, the  which  are  wanted  for  the  next  year.  The 
heat  may  now  be  increase  1  to  95°,  still  recollecting  to  ply 
the  syringe  freely,  excepting  in  dull  or  cold  nights,  when 
water  ought  to  be  withheld,  as  under  such  circumstances 
it  is  apt  to  starve  and  check  the  circulation — a  matter  of 
great  importance. 

The  roots  will  now  be  extending  in  proportion  to  the 
expansion  of  head,  and  must  have  some  attention;  for 
here  are  the  mouths,  and  here  are  also  the  digestive  organs, 
and  woe  betide  the  other  members  of  the  body  if  they 
are  not  well  supplied.  Equally  with  the  amount  of 
healthy  foliage  will  they  draw  moisture  from  the  base  in 
which  they  are  located,  so  long  as  free  development  in 


PLANTING   AND  MANAGEMENT.  63 

progressing  aud  water  ought  to  be  applied  to  tie  soil  ac- 
cordingly.   As  there  may  be  reason  in  all  things,  so  in 
this,  and  the  borders  ought  not  to  be  saturated  by  too 
often  repeating  the  application,  but  of  this  there  is  not 
much  danger  if  the  under  base  is  well  drained.     A  ibrk- 
ii-g,  both  inside  and  out,  over  the  whole  surface,  will  now 
be  of  service,  but  do  not  injure  or  disturb  the  roots  •  this 
will  loosen  up  and  lender  the  bed  more  porous,  and  the 
small  rootlets  will  feel  their  way  more  freely,  after  which 
a  mulching  of  dung  or  short  grass,  four  or  five  inches 
thick,  will  prevent  evaporation,  keep  an  equal  tempera- 
ture and  moisture  in  the  soil,  and,  during  hot  and  dry 
weather,  will  almost  entirely  prevent  the  want  of  that 
greatest  of  evil  necessities,  artificial  watering,  to  the  out- 
side beds.     Gradually  increase  the  heat  as  the  vines  pro- 
gress more  rapidly-  by  the  beginning  of  June  it  may  be 
allowed  to  rise  from  95°  to  100°  at  mid-day,  and  if  the 
air  is  kept  damp,  scorching  from  so  high  a  temperature 
will  be  prevented,  and  both  combined  will  enable    the 
plants  to  develop  their  fullest  energies. 

Many  persons  do  not  give  heat  enough;  even  some  of 
our  very  best  grape  growers  are  sparing  in  this  respect. 
We  ought  to  consider  that,  as  the  grape  vine  is  generally 
grown  under  glass,  we  place  it  in  a  position,  by  the  sup- 
ply  of  rich  food,  to  produce  a  more  than  natural  disten- 
tion of  cellular  tissue ;  the  larger  leaves  also  are  capable  of 
doing  more  work,  in  elaborating  the  juices  drawn  up  from 
the  roots,  and  these  large  leaves  being  filled  with  an  un 
common  amount  of  sap,  require  a  corresponding  assistance 
m  the  form  of  heat  and  light,  to  properly  chemicalize 
^excuse  the  expression)  this  extra  quantity  of  crude  fluid. 
Hen  ce  the  necessity  of  a  warmer  temperature  than  would 
suffice  for  the  same  plants,  if  they  were  growing  ii,  the 
open  air,  and  the  roots  in  a  soil  only  ordinarily  fertile 


64  THE   GRAPE  : 

When  the  canes  have  grown  to  the  top  of  the  roof  do 
not  stop  them,  but  train  the  tops  between  the  vines  on 
the  opposite  side,  if  the  house  be  a  double  pitch ;  and  if  a 
lean  to,  they  may  be  allowed  to  hang  down  by  the  back 
wall,  stopping  the  leader  when  it  has  advanced  somewhat 
downwards,  and  leave  the  laterals  on  the  same  length. 
Thus  the  plants  will  go  on  swelling  their  growth  without 
check,  and  adding  bulk  to  their  structure. 

Towards  the  middle  of  August,  the  air  may  be  allowed 
to  become  somewhat  drier,  and  syringing  overhead  gradu- 
ally lessened,  as  the  wood  will  begin  to  mature:  the  lower 
ventilators  may  also  be  opened  on  clear  days — a  little  at 
first,  increasing  more  from  day  to  day.  By  the  third  week 
in  September,  water  should  be  withheld  altogether,  and  as 
the  wood  will  be  ripening,  air  ought  to  be  freely  admitted 
through  the  day,  and  the  temperature  decreased  as  the 
canes  approach  maturity.  When  the  bark  becomes  brown 
and  the  wood  solid,  the  house  may  be  thrown  open  day 
and  night,  excepting  in  case  of  frost  or  heavy  rain,  as  the 
object  now  is  to  let  all  go  quietly  to  rest,  and  the  leaves 
to  fall  off  yellow  and  fully  ripe,  when  we  may  rest  as- 
sured that  nature  has  done  her  work  according  to  her  own 
will,  and  we  have  assisted  her  in  accordance  to  her  own 
laws. 

So  soon  as  the  leaves  are  fallen,  proceed  to  pruning 
If  all  has  gone  on  as  it  ought  to  have  done,  the  canes  will 
average  five-eighths  to  nearly  one  inch  in  diameter,  ac- 
cording to  the  natural  vigor  of  each  individual  variety,  and 
a  corresponding  length  when  not  stopped,  of  twenty -five  to 
thirty -five  feet.  Cut  off  the  strongest  to  about  seven,  and 
the  weakest  to  five  feet.  Afterwards  take  out  with  the  point 
of  a  knife  each  alternate  bud,  which  will  leave  the  remainder 
about  fifteen  to  eighteen  inches  apart,  the  object  of  which 
is  explained  in  the  chapter  on  pruning,     Commence  at  the 


PLANTING   AND  MANAGEMENT.  65 

top,  leave  three  buds,  one  for  next  year's  leader,  and  th# 
two  others  for  side  spurs ;  proceed  downwards,  leaving 
each  alternate  pair  (one  on  each  side)  to  the  wall  plate, 
and  as  beneath  this,  the  leaves  and  fruit  would  be  out  of 
the  sun's  influence,  and  only  subject  to  encourage  mil- 
dew, all  buds  ought  to  be  removed. 

The  vines  may  now  be  carefully  washed  over  with  the 
following  preparation,  which  will  destroy  the  larvae  or 
eggs  of  insects,  if  any  should  be  existing.  Whale  ul 
soap,  one-fourth  pound;  sulphur,  four  pounds;  tobacco 
one-fourth  pound ;  and  nux  vomica,  one  ounce  :  pour  over 
these  boiling  water,  three  gallons,  and  stir  all  up  until 
thoroughly  mixed ;  as  the  nux  vomica  is  a  deadly  poison 
to  animals,  care  should  be  taken  that  it  is  not  left  care- 
lessly about.  A  soft  painter's  brush  is  the  best  for  the 
purpose,  and  after  the  operation  the  canes  may  be  slung 
loosely  to  the  wires  till  the  weather  begins  to  be  severe 
when  they  should  have  a  coating  of  straw  three  or  foui 
inches  thick  tied  around  them,  and  the  heads  brought  down 
one  over  the  other  in  a  horizontal  position,  about  two  feet 
above  the  ground  level,  in  rows  along  the  lines  of  plant- 
ing; this  will  leave  the  lower  parts  of  the  stem  nearly 
upright,  and  prevent  the  crown  of  the  roots  from  being 
strained  or  disturbed.  At  the  same  time,  be  prepared  with 
a  quantity  of  recently  rotted  turf  sods,  or  fresh  earth, 
which  has  been  mixed  up  two  or  three  months  with  a 
third  part  of  good  stable  or  barnyard  manure ;  fork  over 
the  borders  both  outside  and  inside  of  the  house,  and  add 
%  dressing  of  three  inches  thick  of  the  above  compost.  If 
*he  crowns  were  planted  slightly  elevated,  as  before 
recommended,  this  dressing  will  make  the  surface  level 
and  greatly  assist  the  production  of  young  rootlets  next 
spring,  besides  protecting  the  tender  fibres  through  the 
winter.     Over  the  whole  area  may  be  put  a  good  coating 


66  THE  GRAPE. 

of  litter/  dung,  tree  leaves,  or  other  such  material  to  keep 
out  the  frost,  and  which  may  remain  as  a  mulching  next 
summer. 

Nothing  further  is  now  required,  hnt  to  shut  up  the 
house  on  severe  nights  and  wet  weather,  till  the  bad* 
•how  signs  of  bursting  in  the  following  spring. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

MANAGEMENT  FOR  THE  SECOND  YEAK 
AND  PERMANENT  TREATMENT  FOR 
THE  COLD  GRAPERY. 

The  following  observations  contain  directions  for  the 
treatment  of  a  planting  of  vines  in  the  second  year,  tli6 
permanent  management  of  the  Cold  Grapery,  and  some 
other  details  of  a  general  character. 

As  the  winter  milds  off,  and  warm  sunny  days  com- 
mence, give  air  sufficient  to  keep  the  house  cool,  and  to 
prevent  the  buds  from  pushing  as  long  as  possible.  If  too 
soon  excited,  the  young  shoots  are  in  danger  of  being 
injured  by  the  late  spring  frosts,  and  cold  storms.  When 
it  is  perceived  that  the  buds  are  swelling,  and  can  no 
longer  be  kept  back,  take  the  covering  off  carefully,  and 
tie  the  vines  down  in  the  form  of  an  arch,  with  the  heads 
leaning  from  the  glass,  as  in  this  position  they  am  not  so 
subject  to  injury  in  case  frost  should  occur;  there  is  also 
the  advantage  of  causing  a  more  lateral  propelling  force 
to  the  rising  sap,  which  is  compelled  to  develop  the 
lower  buds  with  more  certainty,  and  this  action  once 
gained,  with  after  good  management  always  remains. 
&ive  a  good  and  thorough  soaking  of  water  to  the  inside 
borders,  which  by  this  time  will  have  become  very  dry, 
also  syringe  overhead  two  or  three  times  a  day,  excepting 
when  the  weather  is  cold,  or  frost  is  to  be  expected,  they 
will  be  assisted  thereby  to  break  uniformly  and  strong 


68  THfi   GRAPE. 

The  temperature  should  now  he  regulated  as  advised  fbi 
the  same  period  last  year,  in  the  preceding  chapter. 

When  the  young  shoots  begin  to  elongate,  sling  the 
canes  loosely  to  the  wires,  but  some  distance  from  the 
glass,  as  the  further  off  for  a  short  time  the  safer  they  will 
be  from  accidental  frosty  nights.  So  soon  as  danger  i« 
past,  tie  them  finally  in  their  places,  leaving  the  strings 
loose  enough  for  future  swelling,  and  be  careful  in  training 
the  leading  shoot  upwards,  as  at  this  time  it  is  very  brittle 
and  easily  broken.  If  not  quite  straight  with  the  older 
cane,  the  better  way  is  to  bring  it  into  the  right  position, 
a  little  at  a  time,  when  the  woody  fibre  begins  to  form  in 
the  base. 

The  bunches  will  now  be  clearly  discernible,  and  when 
they  have  fairly  unfolded  from  the  buds,  so  as  to  show 
their  form,  and  comparative  strength,  take  out  all  except- 
ing the  strongest  and  handsomest  one  upon  each  shoot, 
and  remove  likewise  the  tops  of  the  side  branches,  beyond 
the  third  or  fourth  leaf  above  the  bunch.  These  will 
again  break  from  the  top  eye,  and  as  they  do  so,  from 
time  to  time,  nip  out  the  leader  to  one  leaf  above  where 
it  was  last  stopped ;  this  keeps  the  branches  within  bounds, 
and  at  the  same  time  leaves  sufficient  foliage  to  mature 
the  fruit  and  perfect  growth. 

When  the  blossoms  begin  to  expand  withhold  water 
overhead,  let  the  atmosphere  become  somewhat  drier,  and 
keep  up  a  little  more  heat,  and  if  the  weather  will  allow 
it,  a  freer  circulation  of  air,  from  85°  to  90°  at  mid-day  is 
not  too  much,  close  with  good  warmth  in  the  afternoon 
and  open  soon  enough  in  the  morning,  to  prevent  a  scald- 
ing smell  in  the  house.  At  all  times,  with  a  clear  sun  in 
the  morning,  ventilate  so  soon  as  the  house  begins  to  warm 
a  little,  and  close  early ;  the  temperature  by  these  means 
rises  and  falls  gradually.    Nothing  is  worse  in  all  plant 


MANAGEMENT  FOR  THE  SECOND  YEAR.  69 

cultnre,  ilian  allowing  a  house  to  be  closed  until  it  becomet 
hot,  and  admitting  at  once  a  great  quantity  of  cold  air;  in 
grape  growing,  it  leads  to  the  most  baneful  results.  Open 
60on,  and  close  early,  ought  to  be  a  maxim  well  riveted 
on  the  mind.  Always  have  a  thermometer  hanging  mid- 
way in  the  house,  about  four  feet  from  the  ground,  and 
shaded  from  the  sun  ;  observe  it  closely,  and  be  guided 
by  it,  and  experience  in  ventilating  will  soon  be  acquired, 
better  than  can  be  described  by  words — always  remem- 
bering that  a  gradual  rise  and  fall  are  the  desiderata. 
Attention  for  a  little  while  will  teach,  that  early  closing 
tends  to  regulate  the  heat  in  the  after  part  of  the  day,  and 
a  due  observance  will  lead  to  exact  adaptability. 

As  the  flowers  continue  to  open,  go  over  the  house 
once  a  day,  and  shake  the  bunches  by  a  light  flirt  of  the 
finger,  which  assists  in  distributing  the  pollen,  and  enables 
impregnation  to  go  on  with  more  certainty.  This  opera- 
tion is  best  if  performed  in  the  morning,  about  the  time  or 
immediately  after  giving  air,  as  the  flowers  of  all  plants 
are  then  in  greater  activity,  and  consequently  there  is  the 
chance  of  more  perfect  fertilization.  There  are  certain 
kinds,  as  the  Alexandrian  Muscat  and  its  allies, — purple 
damask,  &cv  which  do  not  readily  fertilize  with  their  own 
pollen  in  a  cold  house ;  that  may  be  much  assisted  by 
shaking  over  the  flowers  a  bunch  of  Hamburgh  or  other 
hardy  sort,  and  as  there  are  more  bunches  than  is  required 
for  ripening,  there  is  always  enough  to  spare  for  this  purpose. 

When  blossoming  is  past,  and  the  berries  are  fairly 
sot,  a  good  syringing  over-head  will  clean  all  the  decayed 
portions  of  flowers  which  cling  to  and  among  the  berries 
and  will  invigorate  the  whole  plant.  Let  water  now  be 
freely  administered  over  every  part,  being  careful  that  at 
no  time  it  is  driven  with  force  against  the  fruit,  as  in  sucb 
case  it  injures  the  surface,  and  produces  "  rust." 


70  THE  GRAPE. 

It  will  now  be  plainly  seen  which  are  the  best  set  and 

handsomest  bunches,  and  as  there  aro  more  than  it  is  ad- 
visable to  ripen  off,  on  account  of  the  youth  jf  the  vines, 
and  the  consequent  danger  of  overbearing,  thereby  injuring 
their  permanent  prosperity,  it  will  be  better  to  reduce  the 
number  according  to  the  strength  of  the  plant,  or  weight 
of  the  bunch.  A  cane  of  three-fourths  inch  diameter  may 
be  allowed  to  carry  from  six  to  seven,  and  one  of  half  an 
inch;  five  to  six  pounds ;  but  when  they  are  smaller  than 
this,  only  one,  or  at  most  two  bunches  ought  to  remain. 
Some  kinds  form  much  larger  bunches  than  others,  which 
may  be  ascertained  in  some  measure  while  young,  and 
the  number  may  be  calculated  accordingly.  A  well 
shouldered  Hamburgh  will  weigh  from  one  and  a  half  to 
two  and  a  half  pounds;  if  very  large,  from  three  and  a  half 
to  four  pounds ;  while  the  Malvesia  is  a  large  bunch  of  its 
kind  at  ten  ounces.  Better  to  be  guided  by  comparative 
weight  than  number  of  bunches,  as  greater  equality  is 
gained,  and  the  vines  are  rendered  more  uniform  in  vigor 
afterwards.  Be  it  remembered,  that  it  is  much  more  diffi- 
cult to  bring  back  energy  where  a  part  is  injured,  than 
when  the  whole  is  so,  for  the  well-doing  will  take  the 
lion's  share  of  nutriment  from  the  borders.  In  removing 
the  superfluous  clusters  take  out  the  worst  formed  and  most 
weakly,  and  let  the  greater  part  be  near  the  top  of  the 
plant,  leaving  the  bottom  spurs  as  free  as  possible ;  for  a 
vine  while  young  is  prone  to  push  its  strongest  growth 
upwards.  By  bearing  the  upper  part  the  heaviest,  the 
circulation  is  equipoised,  and  the  lower  laterals  are  re 
lieved,  and  if  the  flow  is  encouraged  to  take  a  lateral 
course  at  first,  it  is  much  easier  to  retain  the  same  after 
wards.  There  is  no  occasion  to  crowd  all  the  crop  at  the 
top,  only  let  the  greater  part  be  there  and  the  object  is 
accomplished 


MANAGEMENT   FOR   THE   SECOND   YEAR.  71 

All  is  now  to  be  considered  in  full  action, — the  grapes 
about  the  size  of  peas,  and  swelling  fust,  when  it  becomes 
necessary  to  commence  thinning  out  the  superfluous 
berries.  First,  tie  out  the  side  branches,  in  a  horizortal 
position  to  the  wires,  if  not  already  done  •,  then  fasten  a 
string  to  the  end  of  each  shoulder,  and  sling  it  up,  at  right 
angle  with  the  stalk,  to  the  wires  also ;  the  smaller  clus- 
ters may  now  be  opened  out  by  inserting  small  strips  of 
wood,  notched  on  the  two  ends,  under  them,  and  supported 
upon  the  projecting  stalks  below.  This  will  open  out  the 
bunch,  and  prevent  the  weight  of  each  cluster  from  bear- 
ing upon  the  lower  berries.  Next,  proceed  to  cut  out  a 
part  of  the  berries,  commencing  at  the  bottom,  and  leaving 
those  for  ripening  far  enough  apart  to  allow  the  aggregate 
to  swell  up,  without  squeezing  each  other  individually 
when  fully  grown.  Some  care  is  required  in  this  operation, 
and  also  a  little  idea,  for  the  object  is  to  leave  to  each 
berry  sufficient  space  to  allow  for  full  development,  and 
yet  not  so  far  apart  as  to  make  the  bunch  loose  and 
straggling.  No  exact  rule  can  be  given  as  to  distance 
required,  but  generally,  one  half  to  two  thirds  ought  to  be 
cut  away  ;  the  larger  berried  kinds  will  need  more  thin- 
ning than  the  smaller,  there  is  also  a  great  difference  in 
the  setting,  but  a  reference  to  the  descriptive  list  hereafter 
given  will  be  a  guide ;  the  latest  sorts  too,  and  those  in- 
tended to  hang  longest,  should  be  more  distant  than  the 
others ;  for,  when  a  little  assunder  from  each  other,  the 
grapes  keep  much  longer  than  when  they  are  crowded. 
An  experienced  hand  can  tell  pretty  accurately  how  to 
thin,  so  as  to  make  once  going  over  nearly  suffice,  but  for 
beginners,  it  is  perhaps  better  to  perform  the  operation  at 
two  or  three  times  as  they  swell  up  After  the  first  year's 
practice  the  right  idea  is  gained,  and  there  is  no  difficulty 
afterward*.    When  thinning,  do  not  handle  the  berries, 


72  THE    GRAPE. 

or  let  the  hair  rub  them,  for  while  young,  the  skins  ar« 
very  soon  injured,  when  they  become  disfigured,  and 
marked  with  a  russety  roughness  which  is  technically 
called  rust. 

Continue  to  keep  up  a  temperature  of  90°  to  100° 
through  the  day,  and  use  water  freely ;  damp  the  lower 
part  of  the  house  two  or  three  times  between  morning  and 
evening,  and,  when  syringing  at  sundown,  force  the  water 
into  all  crevices  and  corners  of  the  wood-work,  to  dislodge 
insects.  Where  this  is  attended  to,  red  spider,  or  other 
such  pest,  will  never  do  any  harm.  Do  not  wait  until 
these  vermin  make  their  appearance,  but  always  act  on 
the  principle,  "  prevention  is  better  than  cure.'* 

As  the  leading  shoot  continues  to  progress,  train  it  over 
the  top  to  the  opposite  side,  as  advised  for  last  year,  and 
when  it  interferes  with  the  fruit  spurs  in  its  downward 
course,  pinch  out  the  top,  as  it  would  cause  too  much 
crowding,  and  deprive  the  leaves  from  receiving  due 
light. 

In  very  dry  weather  it  will  be  necessary  to  use  water 
on  the  outside  borders ;  generally,  one  or  two  applications 
is  enough  for  the  season ;  but  if  severe  drought  should 
continue,  it  will  be  advisable  to  repeat  the  operation  every 
two  weeks,  till  the  fruit  begins  to  color ;  after  which  there 
is  no  occasion  for  more,  as  there  will  be  plenty  of  moisture 
in  the  ground  for  all  purposes.  Were  it  not  so  generally 
considered  that  large  berries  are  a  part  of  perfection,  we 
should  be  disposed  to  recommend  the  withholding  of  water 
at  an  earlier  period ;  and  those  who  would  prefer  a  rich, 
sugary  grape,  regardless  of  size,  will  be  more  sure  to  get 
it  by  using  water  very  sparingly  after  the  stoning  process 
is  fairly  secured.  Under  these  circumstances  there  is  also 
a  better  chance  of  producing  good  color,  as  the  drier  the 
atmosphere  and  borders  of  a  Cold  Grapery,  the  less  dangei 


MANAGEMENT   FOR   THE   SECOND  YEAR.  /$ 

of  mildew ;  consequently,  a  greater  supply  of  fresh  ah  *«ay 
be  admitted  with  safety,  the  result  of  which  is,  more  ?  >Jid 
Ity  of  fruit,  a  greater  concentration  of  saccharine  ma:ier, 
and,  as  a  matter  of  course,  a  nearer  approach  to  the  natural 
shades  of  color.  When  water  is  applied  outside,-  let  it  be 
a  thorough  soaking — no  mere  dribbling,  but  sufficient  to 
penetrate  down  and  through  the  borders.  The  mulching 
which  was  applied  previous  to  winter  should  also  be  ex- 
amined, and  if  the  surface  is  not  well  covered,  add  mo/e. 
If  the  liquid  drainings  of  a  dunghill  can  be  had,  so  mt  h 
the  better ;  but,  first,  dilute  with  an  equal  portion  of  &  ft 
or  rain  water,  and  never  use  it  but  in  a  clear  state,  is 
otherwise  it  clogs  up  the  porosity  of  the  soil,  and  renrLrs 
it  sodden  and  "  sour."  The  drainage  from  a  cow-houje 
is  also  very  good,  but  ought  not  to  be  applied  until  some- 
what fermented,  as,  while  caustic,  the  salts  contained  in  it 
are  very  destructive  to  the  roots.  Many  persons  apply 
liquid  manures,  of  various  kinds,  without  caution,  and 
often  do  much  injury  thereby,  while,  if  rightly  used,  they 
are  of  the  greatest  advantage.  By  the  second  week  in 
July,  some  of  the  earliest  sorts  will  begin  to  change  foi 
ripening,  when  water  may  be  dispensed  with  overhead, 
but  still  applied  to  the  roots  in  clear  weather,  which  will 
cause  the  atmosphere  to  be  drier.  With  the  ripening  of 
the  fruit  comes  also  an  approach  towards  maturity  of  the 
wood,  and  during  this  period,  water  is  only  essential  to  keep 
up  a  healthy  action,  and  should  be  gradually  discontinued. 
As  a  little  quantity,  often  distributed,  only  damps  the  surface, 
and  the  evaporation  resulting  therefrom  produces  a  moist  at. 
mosphere  when  a  dry  one  is  wanted,  the  times  of  applying  it 
ought  to  be  less  often ;  but  when  done,  a  good  soaking 
should  be  given.  Once  a  week,  for  two  or  three  weeks,  will 
be  enough,  and  after  that  time  once  in  two  weeks,  up  to  the 
Diddle  of  September,  when  it  may  be  withheld  entirely. 
4 


74  THE    GRAPE. 

As  the  grapes  couth,  ue  to  color,  admit  more  air  hi  deal 
days,  open  the  1  >wer  ventilators,  a  little  at  first,  gradually 
increasing,  till  a  free  current  is  obtained,  which  will  assist 
very  much  in  improving  the  quality  in  all  respects,  and 
likewise  help  in  ripening  the  wood. 

After  all  are  ripe,  the  house  may  be  thrown  open  day 
and  night,  excepting  in  storms  or  wet  weather,  when  it 
ought  to  be  partially  closed,  so  as  to  exclude  the  rain,  and 
at  the  same  time  leave  air  to  prevent  the  grapes  from  be- 
coming mouldy  or  cracked. 

When  frosty  nights  begin  to  occur,  the  house  ought  to 
be  closed  in  the  evening,  and  opened  again  early  in  the 
morning.  Let  the  temperature  gradually  cool  down,  but 
keep  the  leaves  from  injury,  for  the  grand  object  now  is  to 
preserve  them  until  they  fall  off  perfectly  ripe,  when  we 
know  that  nature  is  satisfied,  and  the  wood  sufficiently 
matured  to  insure  all  requirements  for  another  season's 
development. 

Immediately  after  the  leaves  are  fallen  is  the  best  time 
to  prune ;  and  as  we  are  now  considered  to  be  dealing 
with  vines  which  have  had  two  summers'  growth,  cut 
down  the  cane  of  the  present  season  to  the  same  length, 
according  to  size  or  vigor,  and  likewise  disbud  it,  as  ad- 
vised for  the  last  fall  pruning,  which  will  make  a  total 
length  from  the  bottom  of  nine  to  twelve  feet.  Cut  the 
side  spurs  to  three  or  four  buds  from  the  extreme  base, 
according  as  they  may  be  plump  or  well  rounded,  and  at 
the  same  time  peel  off  the  loose  bark  from  the  outside  of 
the  stem  which  has  two  seasons'  growth,  but  do  not  injure 
that  which  is  immediately  beneath  the  loose  outer  cover- 
ng,  nor  remove  any  from  the  side  spurs,  or  the  present 
Bummer's  c?ne.  The  object  of  this  peeling  is  to  prevent 
the  lodgment  of  insects ;  with  this  exception,  it  would  be 
better  left  on,  for  nature  never  forms  any  covering  bat 


MANAGEMENT   FOR   THE   SECOND  YEAR.  7£ 

what  is  useful ;  but  as  this  outer  and  loose  bark  is  virtu 
ally  dead,  it  is  of  no  further  use  than  protection  against 
cold ;  so  that  if  the  vines  are  carefully  covered  from  ex 
treme  frost,  there  is  no  harm  in  taking  it  off. 

The  vines  may  now  be  washed  over  with  the  prepara- 
tion, as  advised  for  last  year,  and  brought  down  into  the 
same  horizontal  position;  and  as  it  is  not  easy  to  cover  the 
spurs,  if  wrapped  around  with  straw,  the  better  way  is 
to  have  long,  narrow  boxes,  open  at  the  ends,  or  to 
cover  loosely  with  mar4i  hay,  or  evergreen  boughs.  Let 
the  house  remain  open  through  the  winter,  excepting  in 
stormy,  wet,  or  very  severe  frosty  weather,  and  shut  up 
the  doors  at  night,  f,o  prevent  rats  or  mice  from  getting  in, 
as  they  will  gnaw  the  bark,  and  do  much  mischief.  It  is 
a  good  plan  to  kr/.p  a  cat  inside. 

A  week  or  l<vo  previous  to  the  leaves  falling,  fork  over 
the  borders  c*y*rfulljr,  both  outside  and  inside ;  by  doing 
it  at  this  tin  «.  any  small  rootlets  which  may  be  unavoid- 
ably broke/;  will  have  time  to  heal  up  before  winter  sets 
in.  Whe'i  <*vere  weather  is  apprehended,  cover  over  the 
whole  .-  j/fo^e  with  three  or  four  inches  of  good  stable  ma- 
nure, »"jd  add  an  additional  layer  of  litter  or  leaves  of  about 
the  some  depth  to  prevent  the  frost  from  entering,  and  make 
"  assurance  doubly  sure." 

As  the  general  routine  of  this  season's  practice  will  ap- 
ply to  all  others,  sc  far  as  the  Cold  Grapery  is  concerned, 
it  is  useless  to  follow  this  part  of  the  subject  further,  than 
by  stating  (as  we  are  treating  of  a  set  of  vines  in  the  first 
bearing),  that  the  average  crop  may  be  doubled  next  year, 
according  to  robustness  and  health,  which  will  admit  of 
ten  to  fourteen  pounds  of  grapes  being  taken  off  each,  pro 
viding  all  are  healthy.  It  is  well  to  observe  the  progrest 
of  any  which  do  not  keep  pace  with  the  rest,  and  where 
there  is  a  want  of  vigor,  to  ease  accordingly,  by  not  allow 


76  THE   GRAPE. 

ing  them  to  cany  so  much  fruit  as  the  stronger  ones.  A 
much  larger  weight  than  the  above  might  be  left  to  ripen 
under  some  circumstances,  but.  as  a  general  rule,  it  would 
not  be  advisable,  where  permanent  prosperity  is  desired 
What  is  meitioned  is  easily  attainable,  and  nothing  ia 
advised  that  I  have  not  practically  found  to  succeed  is 
described.  In  pruning  in  the  fall  of  the  third  season  th  ^c 
is  some  difference,  which  will  be  found  fully  described  J 
the  chapter  on  p~unr\j 


CHAPTER  VIL 

THE  EARLY  GRAPERY,  OR  FORCING 
HOUSE. 

When  the  gardener  aspires  to  the  high  attainment  of 
modifying  or  improving  landscape,  he  ought  to  possess  the 
marvellous  ideality  of  the  poet,  and  should  be  acquainted 
with  tliose  nice  perceptions  of  light  and  shade  that  the 
most  sensitive  painter  is  endowed  with ;  but  when  his 
abilities  are  applied  to  the  forcing  of  the  grape,  it  may  be 
said  that  he  puts  his  best  practical  talent  and  observing 
faculties  in  the  most  elevated  position.  It  is  true  that 
there  are  many  details  of  another  character  which  require 
as  much  skill,  and  they  may  be  as  successfully  carriec 
out,  but  the  popularity  of  this  justly  esteemed  fruit  eclipses 
everything  else,  and  he  looks  with  feelings  of  enthusiastic 
pride  upon  the  crop,  as  he  views  the  fine  clusters  hanging 
from  his  thrifty  vines. 

Those  who  are  satisfied  to  have  ripe  grapes  by  the  mid- 
dle or  latter  end  of  June,  need  incur  no  very  extraordinary 
expense,  but  whoever  would  require  the  same  at  the  be- 
ginning of  May,  must  expect  to  swallow  dear  morsels,  and 
there  are  not  many,  excepting  those  who  have  wealth  at 
command  that  will  attempt  it.  There  is,  however,  a  grow- 
ing desire  to  enjoy  the  luxury,  and  increased  encourage- 
ment is  gi^en  to  the  commercial  cultivator  in  the  higher 
prices  that  are  now  to  be  obtained.  May  we  hope  that  this 
encouragement  will  progress,  and  that,  although  it  has  not 
hitherto  been  sufficient,  yet  it  may  become  so  great  as  to 

(TO 


78  THE  GRAPE. 

bring  a  largei  supply  into  market.    However  energetic 

our  most  scientific  fruit-growers  may  be,  and  in  this  they 
are,  to  say  the  least  of  it,  on  a  par  with  any  other  profes- 
sion, yet  it  cannot  be  expected,  that  they  will  supply  an 
article  which  will  not  meet  with  some  profit.  To  this  they 
are  entitled  by  the  standard  of  reward  which  is  given  to 
other  attendants  upon  refinement,  and  why  should  there 
be  a  lack  in  this  instance,  for  those  who  set  a  dish  of  lus- 
cious, tempting  grapes  before  their  guests  at  so  early  a 
period,  not  only  show  their  own  hospitality  to  the  invited, 
but  also  pay  a  compliment  to  scientific  horticulture,  give 
a  Stimulus  to  the  exertions  of  the  skilful  practitioner,  and 
encourage  the  development  of  that  important  contributor 
to  the  country's  wealth,  Pomology.  It  has  become  fashion- 
able to  display  a  handsome  arrangement  of  flowers  on  the 
festive  board  at  a  time  when  every  blade  of  vegetation 
seems  withered  by  the  frigid  blast ;  no  expense  is  here 
spared,  and  why  should  it  not  be  as  much  desired,  to  have 
an  equally  rare  representation  of  fruit  ]  Let  Pomona  and 
Flora  meet  on  equal  terms  at  our  entertainments,  recognize 
each  alike,  and  we  shall  prove  that  we  can  appreciate  all 
parts  of  the  garden  which  the  ail  wise  Designer  of  the 
universe  has  committed  to  our  care  and  keeping,  and  which 
he  has  commanded  us  to  improve. 

When  very  early  forcing  is  desirable,  it  ought  never  to 
be  attempted  with  plants  that  have  not  been  previously 
subjected  more  or  less  to  the  same  process.  If  the  vines 
are  young,  they  may,  in  the  first  year  of  bearing,  be  for- 
warded somewhat,  and  in  the  next  year  they  will  be  in 
a  fit  state  to  be  worked  early.  With  older  plants  the  case 
is  somewhat  different,  particularly  if  they  be  spur-pruned, 
for  there  is  a  greater  tendency  to  burst  the  buds;  still, 
even  in  this  case,  it  were  better  if  they  had  been  forwarded 
the  season  previous.     It  is  often  argued  that  the  continual 


THE  EARLY  GRAPERY  OR  FORCING  HOUSE.   79 

forcing  of  the  same  ptock  weakens,  and  evenlually  wears 
Dut  the  plant,  in  consequence  of  which  it  is  best  to  alter- 
oate ;  to  a  certain  extent  we  may  admit,  that  there  is  some 
truth  in  this,  but  not  so  much  as  some  would  seem  to 
think  ;  if  the  borders  were  to  be  kept  warm,  and  the  roots 
attended  to  with  the  same  care  as  the  tops,  there  would 
not  be  so  many  examples  of  early  imbecility  to  complain 
of.  True,  all  may  be  done  that  ingenuity  can  invent,  and 
yet  the  exact  growing  temperature  of  summer  will  not 
be  obtained — artificial  heat  is  not  so  stimulating  as  that  of 
the  sun,  but  in  our  cloudless  clime,  even  in  the  winter 
time,  there  is  much  bright  and  clear  weather,  which  con- 
siderably assists  our  action,  and  if  not  quite  so  favorable 
as  we  could  wish,  it  is  sufficiently  so  to  enable  us,  with 
good  management  and  proper  conveniences,  to  so  far  suc- 
ceed that  a  house  of  vines  will  admit  of  being  uninter- 
ruptedly forced  for  many  years  in  succession,  and  with 
far  more  certainty  than  the  exploded  notion  of  resting. 
It  is  more  reasonable,  and  much  more  consistent  with 
nature,  that  the  same  periodical  action  should  be  allowed 
to  go  on,  provided  it  is  not  opposed  to  the  peculiar  consti- 
tution of  any  particular  plant,  and  in  the  case  before  us, 
there  does  not  seem  to  be  anything  unnatural,  unless  the 
allowing  of  a  greater  length  of  time  for  the  full  concentra- 
tion of  the  juices  can  be  called  such,  and  it  is  well  known 
that  the  finest  grapes,  and  most  prosperous  vines,  are  to 
be  found  in  those  countries  which  have  longer  and  steadier 
summers  than  our  own.  So  that,  if  all  is  well  done  that 
ought  to  be  done  during  the  earlier  stages  of  development, 
the  plants  have  all  the  remainder  of  the  summer  to  mature 
their  wood  from  the  embryo  fruit  buds,  and  prepare  for 
the  more  willing  start  the  next  season.  Of  course  we  may 
over-do  this  like  most  other  things ;  as  the  grape  vine, 
with  the  great  amount  of  heat  that  we  have  through  the 


80  THE   GRAFjl. 

Bumiuo^  aiid  that  which  is  given  in  the  greatest  n 
tremcs  of  forcing,  will  be  subjected  to  as  much  if  not  mor< 
of  thit  element  than  is  to  be  found  in  the  very  hottest 
parts  of  the  world,  in  which  regions  our  present  subject 
does  not  thrive ;  but  in  the  most  extreme  cases,  it  is  bettel 
to  commence  anew  when  nature  is  so  far  exhausted  as  to 
be  no  further  remunerative,  and  as  in  establishments  where 
this  is  required,  there  are  always  several  houses  *+  work 
there  \n  no  difficulty  in  having  tne  worn-out  lot  replaced 
by  another  planting. 

Where  grapes  are  required  so  early  as  above  mentioned, 
it  is  necessary  that  the  outside  borders  should  have  a  share 
of  attention,  and  we  here  take  the  opportunity  of  offering 
a  few  general  remarks  on  this  head. 

If  we  refer  to  those  localities  or  climates  where  vegeta- 
tion prospers  best,  and  to  the  most  fruitful  regions,  we 
shall  find  that  there  is  no  great  disparity  in  the  average 
degree  of  heat  between  the  atmosphere  and  the  ground 
in  which  the  roots  of  plants  exist ;  consequently,  there  is 
a  reciprocity,  and  an  equal  action,  or  equal  quiescence 
over  all  parts.  We  know  likewise  from  experience,  that 
if  the  head  of  any  plant  were  exposed  to  summer  heat, 
and  the  roots  in  the  cold  of  an  ice  house,  prosperity  could 
not  long  continue ;  in  such  a  case,  if  it  were  positively 
e^en,  we  should  know  the  evil  results  that  would  follow, 
and  alter  the  circumstances  accordingly,  yet  strange  to 
eay,  there  are  some  men  at  the  present  day,  strongly  at- 
tached to  planting  the  grape  vine  outside  of  the  house, 
and  still  stranger,  the  same  persons  are  more  particularly 
so  when  forcing  is  intended ;  such  men  will  argue  that  in 
this  position,  the  roots  more  readily  progress  through  the 
outside  borders,  and  that  it  is  indispensably  necessary,  as 
they  have  seen  fine  grapes  grown  in  this  way.  Such  logic 
is,  however,  contrary  to  all  true  physiological  reasoning, 


THE  EARLY  GRAPERY  OR  FORCING  HOUSE.   81 

for  we  all  know  the  benefit  of  keeping  all  parts  of  othei 
plants  in  an  equal  temperature,  or  if  there  is  any  lifference 
to  be  made,  a  gentle  bottom  heat  under  and  among  the 
toots,  and  also  about  the  lower  parts  of  the  stems,  con- 
duces to  healthfullness  and  success.  "Why  then  should  the 
grape  vine  be  made  an  exception,  for  it  is  subject  to  and 
is  governed  by  the  same  laws  as  other  parts  of  the  vege« 
table  kingdom,  and  the  reason  why  it  does  not  so  soon 
resist  the  bad  treatment  which  is  so  often  practised  upon 
it,  is  on  account  of  its  greater  docility  of  constitution.  For 
late  crops  the  planting  outside  is  not  of  so  much  conse- 
quence, as  the  natural  temperature  only  differs  compara- 
tively little  from  the  inside,  but  for  early  forcing,  it  is 
absolutely  requisite  that  the  stems  should  be  in  the  house, 
and  if  possible,  the  roots  ought  to  be  kept  in  the  same 
temperature  as  the  tops.  To  accomplish  this  desideratum, 
some  of  the  best  cultivators  in  Britain  cover  over  the  bor- 
ders during  winter  and  spring,  with  a  sufficient  depth  of  fer- 
menting manure,  and  replenish  it  as  the  heat  decreases ;  this 
may  do  well  enough  where  the  winters  are  not  severe,  but 
in  such  a  climate  as  the  Middle  and  Northern  States  of 
America,  the  same  practice  cannot  be  satisfactorily  adopted, 
for,  owing  to  the  severity  of  the  weather,  there  would  be 
no  end  to  labour,  and  the  quantity  of  material  required ; 
so  that  we  ought  to  have  recourse  to  other  and  more  con- 
venient means  to  accomplish  the  same  end,  if  we  wish  to 
acquire  the  best  results,  and  endanger  as  little  as  possible 
the  welfare  of  the  plants.  We  may  get  along  pretty  well 
by  covering  over  with  a  good  depth  of  tree  leaves,  or 
other  like  material,  that  will  arrest  the  escape  of  the  heat 
contained  in  the  soil,  and  prevent  the  penetration  of  cold, 
and  this  will  answer  well  enough  when  gentle  forcing  oidy 
is  practised,  but  it  is  nothing  more  than  a  make -shift  job 
for  earlier  crops,  and  answers  a  very  poor  purpose.    A 


82  THE  GRAPE. 

better  substitute  and  a  much  more  effectual  plan,  !b  fo 
cover  the  border  with  glazed  sashes,  or  wooden  shutters, 
and  to  conduct  an  extra  pipe  from  the  hot-water  apparatus, 
or  a  length  of  flue,  which  may  be  conveyed  around  the 
outside,  and  sunk  in  a  cavity,  so  that  the  top  may  be  open, 
and  even  with  the  surface.  During  the  time  when  forcing 
is  going  on,  the  heat  may  in  this  way  be  made  to  circulate 
over  the  surface,  and  forms  a  stratum  of  warm  air  within 
the  chamber  made  by  the  covering,  which  need  not  to  be 
elevated  more  than  six  inches  above  the  upper  level  of 
the  border,  so  as  to  keep  the  collected  heat  more  im- 
mediately near  the  roots,  and  by  limiting  the  space  to  be 
heated,  prevent  waste.  Wooden  shutters  are  best,  so  far 
as  retaining  the  heat  is  concerned,  there  is  likewise  no  dan- 
ger of  breakage,  but  glass  sashes  have  the  advantage  of 
collecting  a  considerable  degree  of  caloric  during  sunshine, 
and  will  somewhat  counterbalance  the  loss  occasioned  by 
its  conducting  properties.  No  doubt  some  persons,  who 
may  be  disposed  to  have  early  grapes,  may  think  such 
appurtenances  very  troublesome  and  expensive,  to  which 
we  would  answer,  if  a  thing  is  worth  doing  at  all,  do  it 
well,  for  all  horticultural  products  are  cheapest  when  well 
attended  to,  and  such  a  convenience  once  obtained  will 
last  many  years,  as  it  may  be  removed  in  the  summer  sea- 
son, and  packed  away,  and  the  channel  in  which  the  out- 
side heating  apparatus  is  placed,  may  at  the  same  time  be 
covered  over,  to  prevent  any  unsightly  appearance,  further 
than  the  row  of  boards  or  flags,  as  the  top  will  be  level 
with  the  surrounding  surface.  That  good  grapes  have 
been  and  still  will  continue  to  be  forced  early  without  such 
an  appendage  is  reasonably  admitted,  but  is  it  not  more 
in  accordance  with  nature,  to  supply  the  roots  with  warmth 
at  the  same  time  as  the  branches,  and  is  there  not  a  greater 
probability  that  success  will  be  more  certain,  and  the  yield 


THE   EARLY   GRAPERY    OR    FORCING   HOUSE.        83 

eomparatively  superior,  besides  the  enabling  the  plant* 
to  go  through  the  various  stages  of  development,  and  after 
concentration,  with  less  injury  to  the  whole  body. 

As  stated  above,  it  is  generally  conceded  that  a  house 
cannot  be  forced  very  early,  for  many  years,  without  the 
vines  becoming  weak  and  exhausted,  consequently  many 
growers  go  on  the  plan  of  alternating  from  one  house  to 
another,  each,  or  every  other  season  ;  thereby,  as  they  ac- 
knowledge, resting  the  vines.     Where  all  other  requisites 
are  added  to  good  culture,  there  is  no  necessity  for  this, 
for,  when  once   a  plant  has  been  induced  by  forcing  to 
break  early,  it  is  afterwards  disposed  to  the  same,  and  it 
only  requires  half  the  amount  of  heat  to  start  such  a  plant 
that  will  be  necessary  for  one  that  has  not  been  brought 
the  season  previous  to  the  same  condition.     As  to  the  weak 
and  slender  bearing  wood,  it  is  quite  reasonable  that  that 
is  a  consequence  of  the  tops  being  unduly  excited  while 
the  roots  are  confined  in  a  cold  base,  and  therefore  have 
not  the  power  to  supply  the  plant  with  the  proper  juices 
in  sufficient  quantity  for  its  own  development.     The  best 
cultivators  are  aware  of  this  fact,  and  the  adoption  of  the 
above  plan  has  resulted  in  the  most  marked  success,  and 
we  have  known  houses  which  were  forced  year  after  year, 
produce  heavy  crops  of  fine  fruit,  when  the  borders  were 
covered  as  advised  above.     It  is  not  to  be  expected  that 
as  fine  bunches    or  as  large  berries  can  be  obtained  from 
the  earliest  forcing,  but  that  a  good  quality  may  be  had 
uninterruptedly,  is  a  fact  that  needs  no  further  demon- 
stration. 

For  the  first  early  crop,  the  vines  ought  to  be  pruned  in 
October,  and  if  the  leaves  are  not  fallen  at  the  time,  let 
what  are  still  left  remain  on — for,  until  they  become  fullv 
ripe  and  change  color  the  structure  of  the  plant  is  receiv- 
ing more  matured  body.     Commence  operations  the  lattei 


84  THE  GRAPE. 

part  of  November,  by  tying  down  the  heals  of  the  vines  as 
before  advised,  and  as  it  is  presumed  that  the  inside  borders 
have  become  very  dry,  give  a  thorough  soaking  of  water 
over  the  whole  interior,  wash  well  into  all  chinks  and  cre- 
vices of  the  wood-work  to  dislodge  insects,  their  eggs,  or 
larvae;  maintain  for  eight  or  ten  days  a  night  temperature 
of  45°;  allowing  it  to  rise  to  60°  or  65°  with  clear  sunlight 
at  the  end  of  this  time  increase  the  heat  for  the  next  two 
weeks  to  50°  by  night,  and  65°  to  70°  by  day,  with  a  free 
use  of  the  syringe  over  the  vines,  and  keep  a  quantity  of 
evaporating  pans  on  the  flues  or  pipes  constantly  filled  with 
water.  All  artificial  heat,  excepting  the  open  tank,  has  a 
tendency  to  dry  the  air  inside  forcing  houses  more  rapidly 
than  that  from  the  sun,  and  as  in  the  earlier  stages  of  de- 
velopment, a  damp  atmosphere  is  particularly  requisite, 
this  point  cannot  be  too  carefully  attended  to.  According 
as  the  heat  is  increased,  let  the  moisture  correspond — 
fancy  a  warm  April  morning,  and  imitate  that  as  near  as 
possible.  The  buds  will  be  swelling  by  this  time,  and 
most  likely  the  weather  severe,  when  care  must  be  used  in 
ventilating.  Our  own  practice  in  all  plant  culture  is,  not 
to  admit  any  bottom  air  from  the  front  lights  through  the 
winter  months,  being  convinced  from  repeated  experiment? 
in  different  ways,  and  with  many  plants,  that  is  one  of  the 
most  injurious  methods  that  can  be  resorted  to.  The 
temperature  may  be  sufficiently  lowered,  and  a  current  of 
wholesome  air  maintained,  by  letting  the  heat  pass  off  at 
the  top  ventilators,  which  it  is  sure  to  do  from  its  own  re 
duced  specific  gravity,  and  accordingly  as  it  escapes  ther 
is  a  certainty  of  a  fresh  supply  being  drawn  in  through  th 
laps  of  the  glass,  and  other  apertures,  which  occur  even 
in  the  tightest  constructed  houses;  depend  upon  it  the 
lower  or  front  part  of  any  winter  worked  house,  will  at  all 
times  be  cool  enough,  without  purposely  introducing  t 


THE  EARLY  GRAPERY  OR  FORCING  HOUSE.   86 

stream  of  cold  air  to  pass  over  and  among  the  leaves,  a. 
it  traverses  upwards,  and  forces  the  heat  out ;  most  of  the 
mildew  that  attacks  roses  and  verbenas  in  the  winter  time 
is  produced  by  this  cause,  and  if  such  piants  as  these  suffer 
surely  the  grape  vine  must  share  the  same  fate.     One  of 
the  worst  things  that  we  have  to  deal  with  in  forcing  this 
fruit  is  the  extreme  difference  of  the  outside  temperature 
from  that  which  is  essential  for  its  well-doing  inside  of  the 
house;   and  particularly   during  its   more   easily  injured 
stages,  there  are  the  most  frigid  blasts  to  contend  against 
and  very  sudden  transitions,  from  dull  or  cloudy  weather, 
to  bright  sunshine;  owing  to  which  it  behooves  us  to  study 
carefully  how  we  proceed,  and  imitate  as  nearly  as  we  can 
those  peculiarities  of  natural  climate   which  observation 
shows  to  be  conducive  to  the  most  healthy  development. 
This  is  more  particularly  mentioned  here,  because  many 
persons  are  prone  to  take  advantage  of  all  the  little  oppor- 
tunities  that  occur  to  admit  "fresh  air,"  without  taking  into 
consideration  these  principles  in  trying  to  accomplish  the 
object  in  view. 

So  soon  as  the  buds  are  well  burst,  the  vines  may  be 
tied  to  the  wires  in  their  permanent  position,  and  the  heat 
very  slowly  but  gradually  increased  ;  if  it  were  possible 
to  be  so  exact,  about  two  thirds  of  a  degree  per  night  and 
one  each  day  in  clear  weather  would  be  about  an  average, 
until  65°  at  night,  and  80°  to  90°  by  day  (according  as  it 
might  be  cloudy  or  sunshine)  were  arrived  at.  As  th<* 
shoots  continue  to  elongate,  tie  them  to  the  side  wires,  but 
be  careful  not  to  commence  this  operation  too  soon,  as  they 
are  very  brittle,  and  subject  to  break  off  at  the  axil  when 
young.  The  bunches  by  this  time  will  be  readily  seen  and 
as  the  future  treatment  with  regard  to  fertilization,  stop- 
ping,  thinning,  &c„  is  the  same  as  explained  in  the  last 
chapter,  there  is  no  occasion  for  repetition.     The  greafesl 


86  THE  GRAPE. 

difference  now  lcquired  between  this  and  the  Cold 
Grapery,  is,  in  maintaining  as  nearly  as  possible  the  sam« 
gr  )wing  temperature,  which  is  more  simply  obtained  when 
the  weather  is  genial;  and  from  what  explanations  are 
given,  it  will  only  require  a  little  observation  on  the  part 
of  the  cultivator  to  carry  out  these  instructions. 

When  the  fruit  begins  to  ripen,  the  front  lights  may  he 
opened  on  soft  and  mild  days,  but  not  otherwise,  for  any- 
thing like  a  sudden  check  will  injure  the  color,  and  stay 
the  carbonic  chemical  change  which  at  this  time  is  going 
on  in  the  fruit,  by  which  the  sugar  may  more  or  less 
abound,  according  as  this  action  is  encouraged  or  inter- 
cepted. It  is  also  advisable  at  this  exact  period,  thai 
the  night  temperature  be  kept  very  carefully  up  to  the 
average  until  the  fruit  is  fully  ripe  ;  a  trifle  of  prolonged 
firing  more  than  pays  for  the  small  extra  quantity  of  fuel 
and  labor,  by  the  better  sample  which  is  thereby  gained. 

If  the  outside  borders  are  covered  by  glass  or  shutters 
they  will  require  an  occasional  supply  of  water,  say  three 
or  four  times  between  the  period  of  the  fruit  setting  and 
the  final  swelling,  which  may  be  accomplished  by  lifting 
the  covers,  one  by  one,  for  the  time  being,  when  the  wea- 
ther is  mild,  and  never  use  water  which  is  cold  for  this  or 
any  other  purpose  in  grape-growing.  Have  a  tank  large 
enough  for  all  uses  situated  in  some  convenient  part  of 
the  house,  and  keep  it  filled,  so  that  what  is  applied  may 
be  of  an  equal  temperature,  or  nearly  so  with  the  air. 

When  the  fruit  is  all  well  ripened,  it  is  desirable  to 
keep  a  part  of  it  for  successional  use,  and  the  house  may 
now  be  freely  ventilated  during  clear  and  warm  weather, 
but  when  fog,  damp,  or  cold  prevails,  the  air  ought  to  be 
only  partially  admitted.  There  is  no  occasion  to  fear  mil- 
dew in  an  early  forced  house,  In  t  no  advantage  is  to  be 
gained  by  submitting  the  fruit,  or  even  leaves,  at  tlua 


THE  EARLY  GRAPERY  OR  FORCING  HOUSE. 


87 


stage,  to  the  extreme  changes  that  frequently  occur 
This  free  ventilation  will,  in  the  course  of  a  week  or  two, 
prepare  the  leaves  for  the  full  and  uncontrolled  action  of 
the  air,  and  the  house  may  then  be  left  open  night  and 
day  throughout  the  remainder  of  the  season,  and  tl  ere 
will  be  no  further  trouble  than  stopping  the  too  extended 
growth,  or  an  occasional  thorough  syringing  over  all  parts 
to  check  the  red  spider,  thrips,  or  other  insects,  the  two 
first  of  which  become  a  great  pest  to  early  forced  vines 
when  not  attended  to. 

To  obtain  a  second  early  crop,  which  may  be  considered 
to  be  ripe  by  the  middle  of  June,  or  early  part  of  July,  it 
will  be  necessary  to  apply  fire  heat  from  the  beginning 
or  middle  of  February,  as  the  case  may  be ;  and  as  all 
the  details  of  management  have  been  heretofore  explained, 
the  same  practice,  with  slight  modifications,  will  be  appli- 
cable. The  annexed  journal,  which  was  kept  by  the 
writer,  during  the  progress  of  a  house  of  this  character 
last  year,  giving  the  temperature  inside  the  house,  and 
outside  in  the  shade,  at  sunrise,  noon,  and  ten  o'clock  at 
night — with  the  current  kind  of  weather,  and  occasional 
remarks,  will,  perhaps,  supply  any  deficiency  that  may 
have  accidentally  occurred. 


»eb 


3d 
4th 
5th 
6th 
7th 
8th 
9th 
10th 
11th 
12th 
13th 
14th 
15th 
16th 
17th 


UtU55 


INSIDE.       OUTSIDE 


40.60 
41.63, 
41.65 
43.62, 
43.62 
41.61 
47.70 
48.73 
46.76 
47.71 
40.68 
51.65 
52.66 
60.65 
51.75 
80, 


56  20. 

58  22.37.321    «• 


5|Cloudy,  with  snow 
Clear. 

Partially  cloudy 
Clear. 

Cloudy  afternoon. 
Heavy  rain  all  day 
Clear, 


2^.1 

21  .12 

38.24 

26.14 

36.24 

48.41 

47.34 

46.20 

21.18 

32.24 

41 

40.34 

38.36 

41.24jCloudy 

39.16  Clear. 


36  Foggy  all  day 
till  BOOO. 


House  thoroughly  cleansed 
and  the  inside  borders 
well  soaked  with  water. 

Forked  inside,  and  tove.red 
with  rotted  manure. 

Syringed  regularly  over 
head  morning  and  night 


88 


THE   GRAPE. 


.4l.?3 
.28.22 
1. 36'.  22 
.44.36 


Cloudy  till  noon 

Severe  snow  storm 

Storm  continued. 

Clear. 

29.12jClear,  strong  wind 
38.30jPartially  clouded. 
36.24  Clear. 

48.44  Cloudy,  rain  &  wind 
""  Snow  cieai  eveninf 

Hazy. 

Partially  cloudy. 

Cloudy  afternoon. 

Foggy  morning. 

Slight  fog. 

Cloudy  morning. 

Clear. 


60. 


Foggy  all  day. 


Clear. 


U 


Clear 


12th|6l. 
13thl<52 
Mm  63. 
15th  61 
16th  60. 
17th  58 
18th  59. 


r.45.23 
.36.30 
.4-2.30 
.44.36 
.47.35 
.48.41 
.42.30 
.52.29 

51.34 
1.44.38 
.50.38 
.46.40 
.52.32 
.55.40 
.66.54 

!.58.42[Partia!ly  cloudy, 
.66.45 
.76.53 

72 
1.31.20 
.34.30 
.37.1 
.35.26 
.36.30 
.40.28 
.35.26 
.31.26 
.33.26 
.37.24 
.35.19 
.38.35 
.38.32 
.37.33 
.42.29 
.40.28 
.39.27 
.51.40 
.58.40 
.77.60 
.76.59 
.70.46 
.80.43 
.60 


70^6 


Clear,  cold  wind. 


Cloudy,  with  snow 
Storm  till  noon. 
Partially  cloudy. 
Cloudy,  cold  wind. 

Hear,  cold  wind. 
Partially  cloudy, 

c>ld  wind. 
Cloudy,  with  snow. 
Cloudy,  with  fog. 

Clear. 

Cloudy. 

Clear. 

Partially  cloudy. 

Clear,  strong  wind. 

Clear. 


.61.42  Cloudy 

.60.43 

.67.42 
1.42.41 
1.43.33 

.36.29 
1.35.29 

.59.38 

.58.42 


Cloudy. 

with  sleet 
Clear. 
Clear 

Hazy,  heavy  snow 
and  wind  at  night 
Storm  continued. 
Storm  continued. 
Cloudy  morning. 
Clear. 


Grizzly  Frontignan  begin  to 
burst  the  buds. 

White  Frontignan  and  Chc»- 
selas  bursting. 


Hamburghs  and  Tokay  r.orst 

ing. 
Muscat  bursting. 

Syringing  continued  morning 
and  evening. 


Tied  up  Chassela8  Fontaine 

bleau. 
Tied  up  Frontignans. 

"        Tokay. 

"        Hamburghs. 

"        Muscat 


Tied  side  branches  to  wiree 
as  they  continued  to  elon- 
gate, stopping  the  weak 
est  four,  and  the  strong 
est  at  three  leaves  above 
the  bunch  ;  syringing  also 
attended  to 


Hamburghs  in  b'oorr. 

Chasselas  ' 

Frontignan         ;" 
Muscats  " 

Water  over-head  withhe.d 
and  fertilization  assisted 
by  jerking  the  bunches  10 
the  middle  of  the  day  or  ■ 
'ittle  before  aoon 


THE  EARLY  GRAPERY  OR  FORCING  HOUSE, 


89 


ftATE. 

INSIDE. 

OUTSIDE 

WEATHER. 

REMARKS. 

»;ri] 

20<h 

62.8(5.70  3§.5?.4^ 

Showers  till  noon. 

Water  over-head   renewed, 

•21st 

63.90.70J34.62.44 

Clear. 

but  carefully  on  account 

22d 

61. 84.69i39. 06. 40 

Cloudy. 

of  danger  from  "  rust," 

23d 

62.87.70J42.66.45 

Cloudy  till  noon. 

24th 

63. 92. 67  J36. 67. 50 

Clear. 

Commenced    to   thin    Ham 

25th 

64.95.7143.72.56 

burghs 

26th 

62.96.70  54.85.66 

" 

Do,      Chasselas. 

27th 

64.95.68'51.72.4:3 

"        Frontignans. 

28th 

62.81.64 

40.52.3b 

Rain  all  day. 

•»        Tokay. 

29th 

63.82.69 

40.56.-5" 

U                      »( 

30th 

6t.88.67 

47.74.48 

Cloudy 

•*        Muscat. 

¥ay 

1st 

63.87.64 

44.71.50 

Clear. 

2d 

65.92.67 

52.79.55 

Cloudy  afternoon. 

Finished  thinning  and  io;  K&i 

3d  ,63.81.66 

46.62.44 

Clear. 

over  inside  border*. 

4t'ii64.79.70 

41.58.50 

Cloudy  &  showers. 

5tn|65.88.65 
6th  64.91.66 

41.69.55 

Partially  cloudy. 

43.55.36 

Clear. 

7th6>. 92.67 

32.64.44 

" 

Grapes  begining  to  «*stoE*. 

8tli|64.9i.6H 

41.68.49 

" 

9th66.88.67 

40.74.59 

« 

I0llv65.89.68 

54.81.59 

Partially  cloudy. 

11th  63.90.65 

55.81.60 

Hazy. 

12th 

66.95.67 

58.82.54 

Clear. 

13lli 

65.92.61 

58.77.61 

Foggy  morning. 

14th 

63.88.67 

57.79.59 

Fog,  with  showers. 

15th 

61.9U.65 

5^.84.58 

Clear. 

16th 

64.97.68 

58.84.5J 

Foggy  morning. 

17m 

65.90.65 

56.73.58 

Fog  with  showers 

18th 

64.87.70 

58.81.59 

Foggy. 

19i  h 

63.91.67 

57.81.56 

Clear. 

aofti 

65.87.66 

56-78.58 

" 

21st 

64.86.67 

56.75.57 

Cloudy 

22d 

63.91.65 

i6. 78.58 

Clear. 

23d  165.92.66 

54.77.54 

'« 

24th 

62.93.65 

53.74.54 

" 

25th 

63-84.70 

53.70.58 

Cloudy. 

Water     overhead      discon 

26th 

65-91.66 

56.79.58 

Clear. 

tinued. 

27th 

64-93.65 

59..  79. 56 

" 

Commenced  to  open  lowei 

28th 

66-95.70 

59.84.66 

« 

ventilators. 

•29th  64.93.65 

54.73.56 

" 

30thl65-90.67 

57.71.56 

Cloudy. 

Grizzly    Frontignan    begin 

3l8tl66.91.71 

56.72.58 

Clear. 

to  color. 

ranr 

lst;64.90.6S 

IT -72.48 

" 

Chasseias  begin  last  swell 

2d 

66.90.61 

48-82.54 

u 

ing. 

3d 

67.91.68 

57-81.62 

u 

Water  entirely  discontinued 

4th 

66.92.71 

59-82.651     " 

5thi68.61.69 

Bl-89.661     " 

6ih)67. 92. 68161-82. 63|     " 

7th  66. 90. 871*5 1  -78.66'Cloudy  afternoon. 

Hamburghs  begin  to  color 

8th  6S  92.66'62.85.64iVTisty  till  noon 

9th  65.9H  64|60-72.57telear. 

IO1I168  91   70'6t-84.64l     " 

Muscats  begu>  '0  e*lor. 

11  th  69 . 92 .  69]64  •  88 .  63lHazy. 

lzth  66. 93. 66  [61. 83. 64 

Thunder  Storm 

I3th|69. 94. 65|64.66. 63 

Showery. 

14thl68.93.67J62.8S.60 

Thundei  showers. 

15th|67 .  92 .  6816I .  86 .  66 

Shower) 

16th  66. 9 1. 64  65. 81. 60 

Clear. 

Ha*y.                      1 

lVth|64. 92. 63  60.72.58 

18th1 

»5. 92.711, 

)7.91.70 

'Jear. 

90 


THE   GRAPifi. 


OATB 

INSIDE. 

OUTSIDE. 

WEATHER. 

REMARKS. 

Jane     19th 

69.9-1.69 

6E.96.68 

Clear. 

20th 

72.91.73 

71.95.74 

>« 

Cut  ChasselasFontainet'eao, 

21st 

73.93.65 

71.90.61 

Cloudy  afternoon. 

ripe. 

22d 

71.92.64 

68  72.61 

"            " 

23d 

65.87.63 

60.73.61 

Cloudy  with  rain. 

Cut  White  Frontignan. 

24lh 

66.90.63 

57.81.60 

Clear. 

Cut  Grizzly  Frontignan. 

25th 

65.91.62 

58.77.58 

u 

26th 

67.93.69 

59.82.68 

Partially  cloudy. 

27th 

70.97.69 

65.98.66 

Thunder  showers. 

Cut  Hamburghs. 

28  th 

68.91.73 

68.85.72 

"            " 

Cut  Cannon  Hall  Muscat. 

29th 

71.93.68 

6S.86.65|CIear. 

Cut  Muscat  of  Alexandria, 

SOthj 

64.87.71 

58.81.70|Cloudy  with  rain. 

After  inw  time  the  house  was  kept  open  at  all  times,  excepting  during  *?ty 
Itrong  winds,  or  severe  storm,  and  an  occasional  soaking  of  water  was  given  cnret 
the  l&avea  to  destroy  insects  and  keep  up  a  healthy  action. 


CHAPTER   VIII. 
POT  CULTURE. 

The  growing  and  fruiting  of  the  grape-vine  in  pots  01 
tubs  is,  in  some  parts  of  Europe,  very  much  practised  at 
the  present  day,  and  some  of  our  best  practical  men  in  this 
country  are  in  favor  of  its  being  more  generally  adopted. 

As  this  mode  requires  the  most  vigilant  care,  we  must 
consider  the  annual  amount  of  labor  incurred  in  watering, 
potting,  and  other  attention  which  is  required,  besides  the 
expense  of  pots  or  tubs  in  which  to  grow  the  plants,  and 
also  the  continual  raising  of  fresh  stock.  On  the  other,  or 
credit  side,  there  is  the  difference  with  regard  to  accom- 
modation and  conveniences  ;  pot  culture  takes  up  no  space 
outside  the  house ;  the  expense  of  outer  borders,  covering, 
&c,  is  avoided ;  but  there  is  a  yearly  item  in  prepared 
compost  which  only  amounts  to  about  the  sum  that  top- 
dressings  would  require — a  manure-water  tank,  or  cistern, 
is  absolutely  necessary  to  supply  the  vines  with  nourish- 
ment, while  growing  freely ;  but  this  is  a  thing  that  ought 
to  be  on  every  place  that  pretends  to  good  gardening.  As 
to  house-room,  what  will  produce  a  given  quantity  of  fruit 
by  the  usual  mode,  will  do  the  same  in  pot  culture ;  and 
all  things  considered,  if  sufficient  care  and  attention  cau 
be  relied  on  at  all  times,  the  latter  mode  has  the  prefer 
ence ;  still  it  ought  to  be  borne  in  mind,  that  without  all 
this,  a  poor  sample  of  watery  fruit  will  be  the  only  reward, 
while  with  it,  fine  grapes,  of  good  quality,  can  be  realized 
and,  considering  the  contingencies,  it  is  only  advisat^e  to 
adopt  this  system  as  a  first  early  crop. 


92  THE  GRAPE. 

If  we  consider  that  each  fruiting  plant  in  this  case  wiD 
occupy  one  square  yard,  which  is  about  an  average,  a 
house  twelve  feet  wide  will  accommodate  three  rows,  and 
admit  room  for  a  pathway ;  and  allowing  forty  feet  as  the 
length,  there  will  he  house-room  for  thirty-nine  vines, 
npm  each  of  which  may  be  ripened  six  to  seven  pounds 
of  grapes,  which  will  make  the  whole  crop  from  two  hun- 
dred and  thirty  to  two  hundred  and  seventy  pounds 
weiguv.  If  the  vines  were  planted  out  three  feet  apart, 
in  the  U3ual  way,  the  same  house  would  contain  thirteen 
plants  to  the  roof,  and  the  same  number  on  the  back  wall ; 
but  as  the  lafcver  will  only  hold  good  for  two  or  three 
years,  on  account  of  shade,  or  may  hav«  been  used  up  by 
previous  cropping,  they  can  only  be  put  down  as  a 
small  set-off  against  the  advantages  oa  the  other  side. 
These  thirteen  vines,  if  forced  equally  early,  cannot  be 
expected  to  produce  more  than  an  aveiage  of  fifteen 
pounds,  which  will  give  a  total  of  one  hundvud  and  ninety- 
five  pounds.  If  the  above  calculations  be  correct — and  we 
judge  from  practical  experience  in  the  matter— the  weight 
of  produce  is  in  favor  of  pot  culture ;  but  as  we  would  not 
mislead,  it  is  necessary  to  repeat,  that  the  samt  quality  is 
not  to  be  obtained  without  skill,  and  the  mosi  careful 
attention. 

There  may  appear  to  be  an  objection  to  pot  culture, 
from  the  general  understanding,  that  when  the  root.fi  of  a 
grape-vine  are  confined  in  so  small  a  space,  it  will  only 
bear  one  remunerative  crop,  and  is  afterwards  useless; 
alfo,  that  a  preparatory  house  will  be  needed  for  succession 
plants  ;  thus  keeping  occupied  two  compartments.  As  to 
the  first,  it  is  an  error  to  suppose  that  a  second,  or  even  a 
third  fruiting,  may  not  be  obtained  from  the  same  plants, 
if  the  roots  are  allowed  to  pass  through  the  bottoms  of  the 
pots  into  the  base  beneath,  which  ought  to  be  made  suita 


POT  CULTURE.  93 

ble  and  fertile  for  the  purpose.  Under  these  circumstan 
ces,  and  with  the  addition  of  liquid  manure,  there  will  he 
enough  organized  matter  stored  up  for  another  season  to 
maintain  and  develop  all  the  next  year's  requirements 
But  allowing  that  only  one  fruiting  could  be  realized,  it  is 
presumed  that  the  crop  would  be  ripe  by  the  middle  of 
May  at  the  latest,  and  either  all  cut,  or  fit  for  removal  to 
another  and  cooler  apartment ;  and  as  in  such  case  the 
planU  would  not  be  wanted  again,  the  roots  that  may  have 
gone  into  the  base  below  might  be  cut  off,  without  any 
detriment  to  the  quality  of  the  fruit.  The  young  succes- 
sion plants  previous  to  this  will  have  been  only  in  a  state 
of  propagation,  and  have  occupied  no  more  space  or  head 
room  than  a  tolerably  deep  hot-bed  frame  would  furnish ; 
so  that,  after  the  flooring  of  the  house  is  again  forked  over, 
and  a  quantity  more  manure  added,  this  young  stock  may 
be  brought  in,  and  established  in  their  permanent  position 
Thus  will  one  house,  with  the  exception  of  a  small  pit,  or 
hot-bed,  answer  all  purposes,  and  will  be  kept  constantly 
at  work. 

Vines  for  this  purpose  may  be  propagated  from  "  eyes  " 
in  the  usual  way,  by  coiling,  and  by  layers — (see  Propaga- 
tion). When  eyes  are  used,  the  young  plants,  after  being 
well  rooted,  ought  to  be  encouraged  by  plenty  of  pot  room, 
and  a  fine  genial,  growing  temperature  maintained,  similar 
to  that  used  for  fruiting.  The  most  suitable  compost  is 
the  peeling,  or  upper  sw^rd  of  a  gcod  pasture,  which  has 
laid  together  until  the  grass  is  dead,  but  not  further  de- 
composed. Chop  this  into  small  pieces  with  the  spade 
add  an  equal  quantity  of  well  decomposed  barn-yard  ma- 
nure, and  if  there  are  any  clean  broken  bones  to  be  had, 
or,  what  is  the  next  best  substitute,  lime-rubbish,  mix  a 
quantity,  say  one-eighth  part,  and  as  much  or  more  of 
charcoal  lumps.     This  furnishes  an  open,  porous,  yet  rich 


94.  THE   GRAPE. 

material,  in  which  the  roots  will  ramify  very  freely.  At 
the  first  move  from  the  striking-pot  an  ordinarily  fertile 
soil  is  best,  and  the  pot  may  be  a  quart  in  measure.  A* 
the  young  plant  continues  to  progress,  and  has  grown  a 
foot  or  eighteen  inches  in  height,  it  will  be  safe  to  remove 
into  one  of  a  gallon  size,  using  the  prepared  compost,  and 
make  sure  of  efficient  drainage  by  throwing  over  the  bot- 
tom a  couple  of  inches  of  crocks,  or,  still  better,  pieces  of 
charcoal ;  over  this  put  a  portion  of  the  roughest  of  the 
compost,  and  fill  in  to  near  the  top  with  the  finer  part,  after 
having  placed  the  plant  in  its  proper  place  and  position. 
Be  careful  not  to  break  the  ball  of  earth,  during  removal, 
when  the  pot  is  turned  upside  down,  which  may  be  pre- 
vented by  giving  the  upper  edge  a  smart  rap  on  any  solid 
eubstanee  near  at  hand,  and  keeping  the  fingers  over  the 
under  surface,  so  as  to  receive  the  whole  as  it  becomes 
liberated.  After  potting,  give  a  good  watering,  and  as  the 
stems  continue  to  elongate,  tie  them  up  carefully  to  stakes, 
until  they  have  attained  the  height  of  seven  feet,  when 
the  tops  may  be  pinched  off.  Throughout  the  season  the 
uppermost  eyes  will  continue  to  push  fresh  growth,  which 
ought  to  be  stopped,  each  time,  one  leaf  above  the  pre- 
vious operation.  The  object  of  this  is  to  prevent  the 
young  vines  from  extending  so  much  growth  as  would 
cause  the  lower  leaves  to  be  shaded,  and  consequently  not 
able  to  elaborate  the  juices  sufficiently  to  produce  matured 
buds  in  the  axils,  the  result  of  wKch  is,  a  deficiency  in  the 
formation  of  the  embryo  fruit.  If  the  plants  are  kept  in  a 
brisk  and  moist  heat,  and  properly  attended  to  by  syring 
ing  and  watering  of  the  roots,  they  will  progress  fast,  and 
by  the  middle  of  July  will  be  ready  to  be  placed  in  the 
fruiting-pots,  which  ought  to  be  from  three  to  four  gallons, 
according  to  the  luxuriance  of  the  vine,  or  robustness  of 
the  yariety.     The  same  process  as  to  potting  inuwt  be 


POT   CULTURE.  95 

gone  through  at  this  as  at  the  last  remove,  and  the  same 
material  used,  and  particular  care  should  be  taken  ^hat  no 
worms,  or  the  larvae  of  beetles  be  in  the  c<  mpost.     It  is  a 
good  plan  to  use  a  little  caustic  powdered  lime  through 
the  mass,  a  short  time  previous  to  using,  which  is  sure  U 
have  the  desired  effect,  and  is  likewise  beneficial  to   the 
plart.    Throughout  the  whole  summer  the  same  treatment, 
with  regard  to  heat,  moisture,  &c,  that  is  suitable  for  planted- 
out,  vines  will  be  right  for  those  in  pots ;  and  if  the  best 
management  has  been  observed,  at  the  end  of  the  growing 
season,  the  canes  will  be  well  matured,  correspondingly 
thick,  and  in  a  fit  state  for  fruiting  the  next  year.     In  the 
foil  they  may  be  cut  back,  the  strongest  to  three  feet,  and 
the  weaker  ones  to  two  feet  six  inches  above  the  pot,  and 
If  there  be  a  portion  that  are  not  strong  enough  to  bear 
fruit,  it  is  best  to  head  them  back  to  the  lowest  good  bud 
»t  the  same  time.     These  latter,  in  the  spring  following, 
may  be  removed  out  of  the  pots,  and  the  soil  shaken  from 
the  roots,  which  ought  to  be  somewhat  shortened  in,  and 
the  plant  again  replaced,  using  fresh  compost  of  the  same 
kind,  with  the  exception  of  a  small  quantity  of  good,  fresh 
earth,  but  only  sufficient  of  this  to  merely  cover  the  roots, 
and  keep  the  richer  material  from  coming  in  close  contact 
until  the  young  fibres  are  emitted.     Young,  healthy  roots 
will  push  into  and  luxuriate  in  a  base  that  would  destroy 
those  which  are  mutilated ;  hence  the  caution. 

When  the  coiling  method  is  adopted  (see  Propagation, 
page  133),  the  fruiting-sized  pot  may  be  used  at  once, 
and  the  after  treatment  will  be  the  same  as  for  the  others 
This  is  the  best  method  for  obtaining  strong  vines  for  pot 
culture  in  the  least  possible  time,  and  when  there  is  a 
surplus  supply  of  canes  from  other  houses  at  pruning  time, 
they  may  be  used  to  advantage  for  this  purpose. 

A  pot  vine,  if  properly  managed,  is  certainly  a  pleasing 


96 


THE   GRAPE. 


and  very  pretty  object,  but  much  depends  upon  the  nicetj 
of  training.  To  gain  this  advantage,  the  plant  ought  not 
to  be  longer  than  is  actually  necessary,  and  the  fruiting 
branches  should  be  as  near  the  surface  of  the  pot  as  is 
consistent  with  securing  good  plump  buds  to  start  from, 
which  can  be  mostly  gained  with  a  cane  of  two  feet  six 
inches  to  three  feet  long.  After  it  is  seen  which  shoots 
will  produce  the  best  bunches,  choose  six  or  seven  which 
are  nearly  equidistant  from  each  other,  between  the  top 
and  bottom,  and  as  they  elongate  tie  them 
out  horizontally,  diverging  on  all  sides 
from  the  stem,  which  may  be  very  neat- 
ly done  by  fixing  a  wire  trellis,  as  seen 
in  fig.  15,  inside  the  pot.  This  is  also  ser- 
viceable to  suspend  the  shoulders  of  the 
bunches  to,  and  if  not  made  of  too  heavy 
material,  is  scarcely  visible,  being  decidedly 
preferable  to  a  display  of  wooden  supports. 
It  should,  however,  be  put  over  the  plant 
before  much  growth  has  progressed,  or  there  — «- 
is  danger  of  breaking  the  young  shoots.  Fig.  is. 

When  the  plants  are  to  be  fruited  more  than  one  season, 
the  double  spur  method,  page  117,  is  best,  as  it  gives  a 
greater  choice  of  good  buds, — a  matter  of  some  conse- 
quence when  the  wood  is  not  over  strong,  and  inder  these 
circumstances  the  bearing  shoots  may  be  cut  clean  away 
so  soon  as  the  fruit  is  cut,  which  admits  the  light  and  sun 
to  the  remaining  leaves  on  the  maiden  spurs,  thereby 
enabling  them  to  have  full  scope,  and  uninterrupted  free- 
dom during  the  after  part  of  the  summer.  Immediately 
after  the  leaves  are  fallen  is  the  best  time  to  prune,  and 
at  the  same  time,  the  roots  that  have  gone  into  the  soil 
below  may  be  cut  away,  the  p^ts  cleaned,  and  the  vines 
washed  over  with  the  mixture,  page  65.    Let  all  now  £0 


POT  CULTURE.  97 

quietly  to  rest  for  a  time  by  keeping  a  low  temperature 
with  plenty  of  air  night  and  day,  and  only  giving  enough 
water  to  prevent  the  roots  and  branches  from  shrivelling, 
Two  or  three  weeks  before  commencing  afresh,  the  plants 
ought  to  be  carefully  turned  out  of  the  pots  without  dis 
turbing  the  balls,  the  roots  examined,  and  any  decayed 
portions  cut  clean  off;  at  the  same  time  take  away  a 
portion  of  the  outer  soil,  and  after  putting  a  good  quantity 
of  drainage  into  each  clean  pot,  again  place  the  plant  as 
before,  filling  in  with  some  of  the  before-mentioned  com- 
post. Before  they  are  again  placed  in  their  permanent 
situation,  let  the  under  base  be  forked  over,  and  some 
more  decomposed  barn-yard  manure  added. 

When  growth  is  progressing  freely,  at  all  times,  from 
the  showing  of  the  fruit  until  it  is  ripe,  clear  liquid  manure 
ought  to  be  applied;  on  this,  in  a  great  measure,  depends 
success,  or  the  best  of  quality.  Each  third  or  fourth  supply 
of  water  should  be,  either  diluted  drainage  from  the  dung- 
hill, or  guano  dissolved,  in  the  quantity  of  one  ounce  to 
the  gallon,  and  if  these  two  are  alternated  it  is  still  better 
The  remainder  of  the  treatment  required  is  the  same  as 
f:>r  other  culture,  and  if  th3  above  directions  are  observed, 
fchere  is  no  fear  of  failure. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

THE   RETARDING   HOUSE. 

The  object  of  th3  Retarding  House  is  the  reverse  of 
the  Early  Grapery.  In  the  latter  we  wish  to  forward  as 
much  as  possible  the  ripening  of  the  fruit,  while  in  the 
former,  the  intention  is  to  retard  it  so  far  as  can  be  done. 
It  is  therefore  evident  that  the  two  features  require  very 
different  management ;  in  fact,  in  one,  the  process  really 
and  truly  speaking,  if  judiciously  applied,  gives  to  the 
vine  the  requirement  of  its  own  or  original  constitution, 
by  the  assistance  of  artificial  heat  at  the  time  when  the 
plant  is  best  able  to  be  benefited  by  it,  while  the  other 
has  the  same  applied,  only  to  keep  out  the  frost  at  mid- 
winter, and  to  create  a  dry  atmosphere  when  the  fruit  is 
hanging  ripe,  for  the  purpose  of  preserving  it. 

From  what  has  been  previously  explained,  it  will  be 
readily  seen  that  some  difficulty  must  occur,  when  we  are 
trying  to  carry  out  in  cultivation  anything  that  is  opposed 
to  nature,  or  attempting  to  thwart  her  established  vitality ; 
such  becomes  true  here,  for,  our  intention  is  to  stay  as 
much  as  possible  that  free  and  brisk  action  which  alone 
will  ensure  the  best  results,  notwithstanding  which,  as  we 
have  an  object  in  view,  and  the  demands  of  luxury  must 
be  supplied,  our  skill  is  brought  into  requisition,  and  to  a 
certain  extent  the  difficulty  is  overcome. 

The  general  routine,  in  this  case,  will  be  the  endeavor 
to  keep  back  the  precocity  of  the  fruit  by  all  consistent  means 
—■one  of  which  is  to  avoid  the  very  earliest  varieties ;  ar 

198) 


THE   RETARDING  HOUSE.  99 

other,  securing  the  right  aspect  of  the  house,  which  is  fully 
explained,  page  37.  It  is  also  essentially  requisite  to  give 
free  ventilation,  both  day  and  night,  excepting  in  severe 
weather,  during  the  whole  of  the  spring  months,  by  which 
a  cool  temperature  may  be  maintained,  and  the  early  flow 
of  the  sap  prevented.  When  it  is  seen  that  the  buds  can 
be  no  longer  kept  from  bursting,  the  house  may  be  closed, 
but  as  it  is  not  advisable  to  raise  so  high  a  temperature  in 
this,  as  in  the  other  successions,  there  ought  not  to  be  so 
much  water  applied,  because,  if  it  be  too  liberally  supplied 
in  this  counteraction  of  the  natural  energy,  there  would 
be  too  much  moisture  absorbed  from  the  atmosphere  by 
the  leaves,  and  from  the  soil  by  the  roots ;  the  consequence 
of  which  would  be  too  great  a  preponderance  of  fluid 
matter,  without  an  equivalent  amount  of  carbonized  and 
solid  material,  and  hence,  a  plethoric  state  of  the  whole 
structure — a  liability  to  disease — want  of  fertility  in  the 
blossoms — a  bad  set  of  inferior  berries — and  consequently, 
poor  quality  of  badly  flavored  fruit.  Water  may,  how- 
ever, be  administered  with  discretion.  According  as  the 
growth  progresses,  as  it  is  more  or  less  active,  or  the 
weather  is  wet  and  cold,  or  dry  and  hot,  so  let  the  water 
be  given  or  withheld.  When  the  leaves  are  fully  develop- 
ed, the  shoots  stopped,  and  the  blossoms  expanded,  syring- 
ing may  be  entirely  discontinued,  excepting  occasionally  on 
bright  mornings,  for,  unless  due  caution  be  exercised 
during  the  remainder  of  the  growing  season,  there  is  danger 
of  mildew.  This  troublesome  guest  is  more  likely  to 
attack  the  Retarding  House  than  any  other,  and  conse 
quently,  greater  vigilance  is  necessary.  It  is  most  gener- 
ally to  be  apprehended  while  the  fruit  is  swelling,  and 
before  the  carbonaceous  matter  has  become  so  far  concen- 
tiated  as  to  be  relieved  from  the  greater  overplus  of 
acidity;  and  as  the  secretions  of  the  plants  in  this  house 


100  THE  GRAPE. 

are  in  such  a  state,  during  the  months  of  July  and  Augi.st. 
when  the  sporules  of  the  fungus  are  most  active,  it  is  very 
jieeessary  to  keep  careful  watch,  and  avoid  as  much  as 
possible  all  sudden  transitions  of  temperature;  do  not 
allow  the  house  to  be  closed  until  it  becomes  hot,  but 
admit  air  freely  whenever  required;  be  wary  of  bottom 
drafts,  keep  the  lower  ventilators  closed  in  damp  weather 
and  if  such  continues  for  any  length  of  time  with  a  humid 
atmosphere,  a  little  artificial  heat  may  be  applied  for  the 
time  being,  with  the  upper  ventilators  opened,  which  will 
keep  down  the  thermometer,  dry  the  air,  and  stay  the 
progress  of  the  mildew  if  it  be  present,  or  prevent  its 
germination  if  not  so.  Sulphur  aught  to  be  liberally 
strewed  over  the  floor  for  the  same  purpose,  and  if  a  small 
quantity  be  thrown  on  the  flue,  avoiding  the  hottest  end,  or 
on  any  part  of  the  hot  water  pipes,  as  the  case  may  be, 
there  need  not  be  any  fear  of  its  ravages  extending.  An- 
other mischief  to  be  expected  at  times  to  this  crop  is, 
shrivel  and  shanking,  the  best  means  of  avoiding  which  is 
to  continue  the  same  regularity  of  management  that  has 
been  observed  through  the  whole  progress,  and  until  the 
fruit  is  colored ;  after  this  period  there  is  no  danger,  and 
the  house  may  afterwards  be  left  open  constantly,  or  par- 
tially, or  entirely  closed,  as  the  weather  may  he  wet  or 
frosty.  A  portion  of  the  grapes  in  this  house  will  have  to 
remain  on  the  vines  during  the  winter,  and  must  be  kept 
quite  dry  and  free  from  frost,  which  makes  it  necessary  to 
use  a  trifle  of  fire-heat  at  times,  just  enough,  but  not  more 
than,  to  answer  the  purpose;  and  if  the  berries  were  not 
well  thinned  at  the  proper  time,  they  ought  to  be  furthei 
reduced  in  number  now,  so  that  they  may  hang  loosely, 
thereby  preventing  close  contact,  and  admitting  a  free 
circulation  around  each. 

As  the  fruit  often  remains  beyond  the  usual  time  of 


THE    RETARDING   HOUSE.  101 

pruning',  it  is  well  not  to  make  a  general  rule  of  cutting 
all  at  once,  or  leaving  the  vines  until  the  crop  is  cleared, 
but  do  it  so  soon  as  the  leaves  are  turned  yellow,  or  fallen ; 
and  the  whole  of  the  fruit  is  gathered  on  each  separate 
plant,  which  will  enable  the  operator  to  accomplish  a  gr  od 
part  of  this  work  sooner,  and  give  a  portion  of  the  stock 
a  better  chance  of  the  same  action  that  we  always  find  of 
service,  by  a  periodical  and  judicious  pruning  in  all  other 
instances.  This  is  more  strictly  applicable  where  the 
spur  method  is  adopted,  but  is  nevertheless  to  be  recom- 
mended for  the  long  rod,  as  the  latter  offers  greater  facili- 
ties than  the  former,  because  there  is  a  less  disposition  to 
break  or  burst  the  buds,  with  a  young  and  strong  cane  in 
early  spring,  than  with  spurs ;  and  as  the  whole  of  the 
previous  bearing  shoot  is  taken  away,  there  is  only  one 
cut  exposed  to  the  danger  of  bleeding;  a  subject  of  some 
importance,  if  the  fruit  has  been  kept  on  the  vine  until 
late.  In  such  case,  immediately  on  removing  the  branch, 
the  severed  surface  should  be  covered  over  with  a  coating 
of  grafting  wax,  white  lead,  or,  what  is  still  better,  finely 
powdered  oyster-shells  and  cheese,  worked  together  into  a 
thick  cement,  and  a  portion  rubbed  well  into  the  exposed 
pores.  This,  we  repeat,  ought  to  be  done  immediately 
after  pruning,  and  all  danger  of  bleeding  will  be  avoided. 
It  is  of  little  use  to  attempt  to  stop  the  sap  after  it  has 
commenced  to  flow,  for  there  is  a  propelling  power  in  the 
action  of  a  plant  at  this  time  that  is  truly  wonderful ;  and 
although  there  is  not  so  much  injury  from  the  loss  of  a 
portion  of  the  fluid  as  some  persons  would  have  us  believe- 
still  it  is  better  to  prevent  the  waste,  for  it  certainly  does 
check,  to  some  extent,  the  full  burst  of  nature,  as  we  have 
often  satisfactorily  proved. 

It  may  be  thought,  from  the  preceding  caution,  and 
seeming  uncertainty,  that  the  Retarding  House  ought  to  be 


102  THE   GRAPE. 

abandoned ;  £o  it  ought,  were  it  not  for  the  desirableneai 
of  having  ripe  grapes  at  mid-winter,  and  before  the  earliest 
house  can  be  made  to  produce  them  ;  and  it  certainly  is, 
these  advantages  considered,  worth  a  little  trouble  and 
ex  Ira  care. 

In  taking  a  review  of  the  various  succession  crops  here- 
tofore treated  on,  we  may  now  calculate  how  long  it  is 
possible  to  have  ripe  grapes  fresh  from  the  vine.  The 
First  Early  can  be  had  from  the  beginning  of  May,  and 
will  continue  to  the  middle  of  June,  when  the  Second 
Early  will  be  ready,  and  give  a  supply  until  the  middle  of 
August.  The  Cold  Grapery  now  comes  in,  and  will  furnish 
a  general  quantity  till  the  middle  of  November ;  after  this, 
the  Retarding  House  gives  its  quota  on  to  the  last  of  Feb- 
ruary, which  collectively  leaves  only  two  months  deficient, 
or  without  a  supply ;  and  as  there  are  some  kinds,  as  the 
Muscats,  Frontignans,  and  Ohasselas,  that  may  be  pre- 
served by  care,  and  if  it  is  absolutely  required,  even  in 
this  remaining  short  period,  a  far  better  sample  may  be 
furnished  than  is  to  be  had  from  the  finest  quality  of  im- 
ported raisins;  so  that,  where  expense  is  no  object,  and 
the  luxury  is  demanded,  it  may  be  enjoyed  without  intei 
mission. 

If  the  air  of  the  grapery  be  kept  dry  enough,  some 
grapes  will  remain  good  on  the  vine  until  they  become 
raisins ;  but  it  is  not  convenient  at  all  times  to  leave  them 
so,  and  in  such  case,  those  that  are  to  be  preserved  may 
be  cut  when  they  can  no  longer  be  left  When  they  are 
removed,  the  bunches  ought  to  be  carefully  examined, 
and  all  injured  or  decayed  berries  cut  out,  and  suspended, 
the  reverse  way  to  that  in  which  they  were  grown,  by 
hooked  wires  fixed  to  a  frame-work,  so  that  each  bunch 
and  berry  may  hang  free  from  contact,  and  they  will  re- 
quire to  be  kept  in  a  very  dry  room,  partially  excluded 


THE  RE1  iRDING  HOUSE.  10S 

^om  tlie  light,  and  where  there  is  enough  fire  at  suitable 
times  to  keep  the  temperature  from  40°  to  50°.  A  well- 
planned  fruit-room  is  all  that  is  needed,  and  where  there 
is  not  such  a  convenience,  the  above  hints  may  assist  in 
directing  attention  to  some  other  apartment  about  the 
premises  that  will  answer  the  purpose,  and  enable  the 
lover  of  this  ambrosial  fruit  to  enjoy  to  the  fullest  extent 
this  munificent  gift  of  our  benevolent  Creator. 


CHAPTER  X 

LIST  OF  VARIETIES. 

To  begin  to  individualize,  or  render  a  plain  exposition 
to  the  uninitiated  in  grape  nomenclature,  is  a  very  difficult 
affair.  As  it  now  stands  before  the  public,  it  is  nothing 
more  than  a  heterogeneous  jumble  of  confusion,  and  the 
search  after  a  thoroughly  practical  understanding  of  the 
matter  requires  more  time,  patience,  and  expense,  than 
even  the  enthusiast  would  be  willing  to  encounter  in  the 
investigation,  if  he  only  knew  beforehand  the  maze  he 
had  to  travel  through.  To  such  an  extent  have  the  various 
synonymes  become  multiplied,  that  the  examination  of 
them  shows  clearly  the  ridiculousness  of  the  number,  and 
the  only  way  of  extricating  the  subject  from  the  tiresome 
burden  of  incongruity,  is  by  making  use  only  of  a  few  that 
we  know  are  most  familiar  in  the  society  in  which  we  live, 
and  only  introducing  such  kinds  as  are  distinct,  or  worthy 
of  cultivation,  headed  by  the  most  popular  name  by  which 
it  is  known  in  our  midst.  It  would  be  no  difficult  matter 
to  introduce  and  describe  some  hundred  so-called  varieties, 
but  when  they  were  applied  for,  and  obtained,  which  they 
might  be  from  the  various  nurseries  in  our  own  country 
and  Europe,  the  half  of  them  would  prove  to  be  merely 
duplicates, — nay,  we  will  go  further,  and  aerert  that  not 
more  than  a  fourth,  from  some  places,  if  thus  sought  after, 
will  be  really  distinct;  besides,  were  the  expected  variety 
to  be  forthcoming  undei  such  circumstances  a  great  por- 
tion are  only  novelties  and  would  lead  to  chagrin  and 

(104) 


LIST  OF   VARIETIES.  105 

vexation  when  they  were  proved.  We  take  in  tfiis  case 
a  utilitarian  view  of  the  subject,  and  would  leave  the 
further  action  open  to  those  of  unlimited  means  and  un- 
controlled enthusiasm  to  go  along  with  their  own  fancy 
They  cannot  be  better  employed,  and  the  results  of  theii 
labors  will  be  of  the  same  national  benefit  as  is  that  of 
the  only  theoretical  and  experimental  farmer;  good  collec 
fcively,  at  the  expense  of  the  individual,  and  praiseworthy: 
without  profit,  to  the  searcher  after  progressive  improve- 
ment. It  is  to  the  exertions  of  such  laudable  persons  that 
we  are  indebted  for  much  of  our  knowledge  and  gain,  and 
such  deserve  more  often  than  they  receive  the  gratitude 
of  their  fellow  men  and  a  monument  for  their  patriotism 
Having  said  thus  much,  it  becomes  our  duty  to  keep  our 
position,  and  give  in  the  first  place  a  general  descriptive 
list  of  the  best  sorts  in  cultivation,  and  select  out  of  the 
same  those  varieties  that  are  adapted  to  the  various  pur- 
poses treated  on. 

BLACK  OR  PURPLE. 

Black  Hamburgh,  (syn.  Hampton  Court  Vine— 
Frankendale.) — Bunches  large,  compact  and  well  shoul- 
dered. Berries  large,  round,  black,  flavor  full  and  sweet 
The  best  black  grape  grown  for  table  use. 

Victoria  Hamburgh. — Similar  to  the  above  when 
true ;  the  berries  somewhat  larger  and  very  black,  and  the 
bunches  more  tapering. 

Wilmott's  Hamburgh. — Bunches  very  compact,  ber 
ries  large,  very  black,  round,  appearing  (under  good 
^culture)  as  if  hammered  on  the  surface ;  a  fine  grape,  but 
not  quite  equal  to  the  first  in  flavor. 

Wilmott's  No.  16.— A  seedling  from  Black  Hamburgh 
and  so  like  it  as  scarcely  to  be  distinguished. 

Miller's  Burgundy,  (syn.  Miller  Grape) — Buncbe* 
6* 


106  THE    GRAPE. 

short  and  close,  berries  roundish  oval,  black,  rather  small, 
covered  with  a  blue  bloom,  flavor  not  good  until  fully 
ripe.  An  early  variety  of  second  rate  quality  for  the 
grapery,  but  suitable  for  out-door  culture.  The  leaves  of 
this  sort  are  pubescent,  hence  its  name  from  the  white 
Jowny  appearance. 

Black  Cluster,  (syn.  Black  July.) — Bunches  small  and 
clustered  ;  berries  jet  black,  small,  flavor  sprightly  but 
wanting  in  fullness,  one  of  the  very  earliest  kinds,  but  not 
worth  room  in  the  grapery.  The  leaves  of  this  are  free 
of  the  downiness  mentioned  in  the  last. 

West's  St.  Peters,  (syn.  Black  Lombardy — Toonah 
— Raisin  des  Cannes.) — Bunches  medium  size,  long,  taper- 
ing, well  shouldered ;  berries  medium  size,  oval,  very 
black,  covered  with  a  blue  bloom,  very  sweet  and  sprightly ; 
a  fine  late  sort. 

Mitchell's  St.  Peters. — Similar  to  the  above,  but  a 
handsomer  bunch  and  berry. 

ZiNFINDAL. — Bunches  long,  peculiar  in  form,  being  some- 
times composed  of  two  shoulders,  berries  roundish  oval, 
black,  sweet,  but  tame,  a  good  hardy  sort. 

BLnCK  Frontignan.  (syn.  Black  Constantia — Black 
Frontvgnac — Muscat  noir  de  Frontignac.) — Bunches  below 
medium  size,  tapering,  small  shouldered ;  berries  not  large, 
round,  niack,  musky  and  sweet,  a  good  grape,  but  bad  to 
color,  and  in  some  houses  subject  to  shank. 

Black  Prince,  (syn.  Cambridge  Botanic  Garden— 
Alicant.y  -Bunches  long,  tapering  and  well  shouldered 
beiries  a  little  above  medium  size,  oval,  black,  very  swee 
*nd  sprightly,  a  first-rate  sort. 

Schargk's  Henling. — Bunches  long,  tapering,  and 
clustered;  berries  small,  oval,  very  black,  sweet  and  brisk; 
pretty  in  form,  and  a  seedling  from  the  Burgundy. 

Black  Tripoli  (of  Speechley). — Bunches  in  form  like 


LIST   OF  VARIETIE&  107 

HamLurgh,  but  rather  loose;  berries  large,  black,  flavoi 
good  ;  useful  ar  i  late  grape. 

Espbrione  syn.  Cumberland  Lodge — Blue  Windsor.) 
—Bunclies  taije  shouldered;  berries  medium  size,  black 
with  fine  l>Tn.*raj  pretty,  but  second  rate. 

Prince  Albert,  (syn.  Royal  Albert.) — Bunches  large., 
heavy  shouldered,  and  tapering;  berries  medium  size 
round,  black  ;  flesh  solid,  sweet  and  sprightly  This  is  a 
very  strong  grower,  and  shy  bearer,  except  in  poor  soil, 
otherwise  it  is  a  first-rate  late  sort.  We  are  inclined  to 
think  that  the  Black  Barbarossa  will  prove  the  same  as  this. 

Black  Morocco,  (syn.  Black  Muscadei.) — Bunches  large 
and  heavy  shouldered ;  berries  large,  ovoid,  brownish 
black  when  fully  ripe,  flesh  solid  and  only  second  quality  ; 
a  very  late  grape,  and  with  fire-heat  tolerably  good. 

Purple  Frontignan.  (syn.  Purple  Constanlia — Blue 
Frontignan  —  Voilet  Frontignan.)  —  Bunches  long  and 
tapering  with  small  shoulders;  berries  medium  size,  blue 
black,  flavor  slightly  musky,  and  agreeable.  This  grape 
and  the  true  Black  Frontignan  are  so  generally  mixed  up 
in  different  collections,  as  to  frequently  lead  to  disputes 
in  their  individual  identity  ;  our  own  observation  inclines 
to  distinctness  of  the  two  sorts,  the  black  scarcely  ever 
colors  further  than  a  brownish  jet ;  while  the  purple 
assumes  a  true  bluish-black,  even  with  ordinary  culture. 
The  former  has  also  a  stronger  musky  flavor,  and  will 
hang  until  they  become  raisins. 

Oldaker's  St.  Peters,  (syn.  Black  St.  Peters — 
Black  Palestine.) — Bunches  somewhat  like  Hamburgh,  but 
loose,  berries  rather  large,  round,  black  ;  flavor  sweet ;  a 
good  late  grape  but  not  a  very  free  bearer. 

WHITE  AND  AMBER  COLORED. 
Ghasselas  de  Fontainebleau.   (syn.  Chassda*  prt- 
White  Chasselas — Royal    Ghasselas — Chasselat  di 


108  THE   GRAPE. 

Bu?  Su?  Aube.) — Bunches  tapering,  well-shouldei  ed,  me 
dium  size ;  berries  round,  medium  size,  amber-white  j 
flavor  sweet  and  full.  One  of  the  most  reliable  and 
early  of  white  grapes,  and  the  very  best  quality. 

Ma.lv  asia.  (syn.  Grove-end  Sweet  Water — Early 
White  Malvoise.) — Bunches  rather  below  medium  size 
small  shoulders,  tapering ;  berries  greenish-amber,  below 
medium  size,  roundish  oval,  transparent,  very  sweet ;  a 
good  early  kind. 

Golden  Chasselas. — Bunches  long  and  tapering;  ber- 
ries medium  size,  round,  yellowish-amber  color;  sweet 
and  sprightly.  With  fire  heat  this  is  a  good  grape,  but  in 
the  Cold  Grapery  it  is  often  a  bad  setter,  and  is  at  all 
times  somewhat  uncertain. 

Royal  Muscadine. — This  grape  is  often  considered  to 
be  the  same  as  Chasselas  Fontainebleau,  although  quite  dis- 
tinct. The  bunch  of  this  variety  is  much  larger,  and  the 
color  more  inclining  to  yellow.  It  is  seldom  seen  true ; 
the  last  named  being  often  substituted  for  it. 

Chasselas  Musqjje.  (syn.  Muscat  Blanc  Hatif—Joslym 
St.  Albans.) — Bunches  medium  size,  tapering ;  berries 
round,  flattened  on  the  end ;  amber-white,  musky,  rich, 
and  very  sweet;  a  free  bearer,  and  one  of  the  finest 
grapes  in  cultivation ;  it  is,  however,  very  liable  to  crack, 
if  not  well  ventilated,  and  more  than  usually  subject  to 
shrivel. 

White  Gascoine. — Bunches  rather  large,  well-should- 
ered, tapering ;  berries  oval ;  white,  flavor  good.  Subject 
to  crack  sometimes  in  a  damp  house.     A  good  sort. 

Verdelho.  (syn.  Madeira  Wine  Grape.) — Bunches  ra- 
ther small,  loose ;  berries  medium  size,  oval,  yellowish- 
green,  sweet,  and  pleasant ;  a  good  variety  and  vigorous 
grower,  but  not  a  very  free  bearer. 

Whitr    Tokav.  (syn.    True    To/cay —  Tokai  Bloncs}~ 


LIST  OF   VARIETIES.  109 

Bunches  long  and  compact ;  berries  roundish-oval,  median: 
size,  white,  sweet,  and  pleasant ;  a  fine  sort,  but  subject 
to  shrivel  when  growing  in  a  wet  border. 

White  Frontignan.  (syn.  White  Constantia — Whit\ 
Frontignac — Muscat  Blanc.) — Bunches  below  medium  size 
I  »ng,  small  shouldered ;  berries  medium  size,  round,  ligh 
amber,  musky  and  sweet ;  a  fine  early  sort. 

Decon's  Superb.  (  syn  Sahibee. )  —  Bunches  rathei 
large  and  handsome ;  berries  large,  oval,  amber  color,  ap- 
pearing as  if  frosted  over  the  surface.  This  is  a  splendid 
looking  grape,  but  of  second  quality  ;  and  in  a  cold  house 
often  a  bad  setter. 

White  Nice.  (  syn.  Xeres. )  —  Bunches  very  large,  and 
many  shouldered;  berries  medium  size,  round,  amber- 
white,  sweet,  and  sherry  tasted.  A  fine  sort,  and  occa- 
sionally most  extraordinarily  large.  It  has  been  grown  to 
nineteen  pounds  weight,  but  such  bunches  are  only  ex- 
ceptions. Many  Spaniards  to  whom  we  have  shown  this 
grape,  recognize  it  as  the  one  from  which  sherry  wine  is 
made. 

Syrian. — Bunches  very  large,  and  heavy  shouldered ; 
berries  large,  slightly  oval,  white  and  sweet.  If  we  have 
at  the  present  time  any  grape  in  cultivation  which  is  the 
the  one  brought  by  spies  out  of  the  land  of  Canaan,  this  is 
the  most  likely  sort.  It  is  always  large,  and  sometimes 
very  heavy  ;  a  fine  late  kind. 

White  Lisbon,  (syn.  White  Hamburgh — White  Portu- 
gal)— Bunches  sometimes  large  shouldered,  large  and  ra- 
ther loose,  but  when  well  grown  very  handsome ;  berrie? 
oval,  white,  large,  solid ;  flavor  sweet,  but  only  second 
rate  This  is  the  grape  that  is  imported  from  Europe  in 
jars.  It  is  a  fine  sort  for  the  Retarding  House,  as  it  keeps 
well  and  ripens  late. 

Pitmaston  White  Cluster.— Bunches  medium  size 


110  THE   GRAPE. 

compact ;    Lorries  round,  white,  medium  size,  sweet,  and 
good  flavored.     A  fine  early  sort  of  the  Chasselas  class. 

Scotch  White  Cluster. — Very  like  the  above. 

Groiyiier  du  Cantal.  (  syn.  Dccandolle?)  —  Bunches 
large,  broad,  heavy  shouldered  ;  berries  large,  round,  am- 
ber colored,  blotched  with  purplish  brown,  sweel,  and 
brisk  flavored  ;  very  thin  skinned ;  a  good  sort  for  imme 
diate  use,  but  soon  spoils. 

De  la  Palestine. — Bunches  much  branched,  and  very 
long,  often  two  feet ;  shoulders  very  numerous  and  long ; 
berries  below  medium  size,  oval,  amber  colored,  very 
sweet.  A  good  late  fancy  kind,  and  distinct  in  appear- 
ance. 

Dutch  Sweet  Water,  (syn.  Pearl  Drop —  Pareyl 
Druyf.) — Bunches  medium  size,  compact,  and  well-should- 
ered ;  in  form  like  Hamburgh ;  berries  large,  round,  trans- 
parent, white,  very  sweet,  skin  thin.  A  fine  early  sort, 
seldom  seen  true,  the  old  White  Sweet  Water  being  often 
substituted. 

Muscat  of  Alexandria,  (syn.  White  Muscat — Ma- 
laga.)— Bunches  handsome,  well  formed,  and  large ;  ber- 
ries large,  oval,  amber  colored,  musky,  and  sweet.  Un- 
questionably one  of  the  finest  grapes  in  cultivation,  but 
requires  artificial  heat,  particularly  while  in  bloom. 

Cannon  Hall  Muscat. — Very  like  the  above,  but  of 
more  robust  growth,  and  larger  berries ;  the  bunches  also 
are  generally  more  tapering,  and  the  stamens  six,  occasion- 
ally seven,  in  number. 

Muscat  of  Lunel. — Like  the  Muscat  of  Alexandria, 
with  smaller  berries. 

Charlesworth  Tokay.  —  Bunches  laige,  long,  and 
well  shouldered;  berries  large,  roundish  oval,  amber- 
white,  rich,  vinous,  and  musky.  This  is  a  good  variety 
And  sometimes  mistaken  for  Muscat   of  Alexandria,  «1 


LIST  OF  VARIETIES.  HI 

though  quite  distinct.    The  foliage  of  this  is  more  Jeeply 
cut,  and  not  reflexed  on  the  edges. 

White  Corinth. — Bunches  tapering ;  berries  close  seti 
small,  very  pretty,  and  prolific,  a  fancy  kind. 

RED  AND   TAWNY   COLORED. 

Red  Traminer. — Bunches  below  medium  size,  shou[& 
ered  and  tapering;  berries  rather  small,  round,  of  a  rus- 
sety-red  color ;  a  good  sort.  This  is  one  of  the  best  wine 
grapos  of  the  Rhine,  and  suitable  in  some  situations  for  out 
door  culture  in  our  own  climate. 

Red  Ohasselas.  (syn.  Red  Muscadine — Muscadim 
Rouge.) — Bunches  medium  size,  shouldered ;  berries  me- 
dium size,  round,  sweet,  and  good.  This  variety  is  re- 
markable for  having  the  berries  red  from  the  first,  and 
afterwards  changing  to  a  lighter  shade  when  ripe.  The 
wood  also  is  of  a  reddish  color. 

Rose  Ohasselas.  (syn.  Violet  Chasselas.)  —  Bunches 
below  medium  size,  shouldered ;  berries  below  medium, 
round,  rose  color,  sweet.     A  good  sort. 

Austrian  Muscat. — Bunches  medium  size,  very  com- 
pact ;  berries  closely  set,  roundish-oval,  tawny-red ;  skin 
thin.  This  grape  is  not  unlike  the  Grizzly  Frontignan 
either  in  flavor  or  appearance,  but  is  not  so  good  -  and  is 
subject  to  crack,  but  hangs  long  after  being  ripe. 

Grizzly  Frontignan.  (syn.  Red  Constantia — Grizzly 
Frontignac — Muscat  Gris.) — Bunches  tapering  with  small 
shoulders,  below  medium  size.  Berries,  medium  eize, 
round,  grizzly  red,  musky,  rich  and  sweet.  A  fine  early 
grape,  and  hangs  well  after  being  ripe. 

Reine  de  Nice.  (syn.  Queen  of  Lombardy.) — Bunches 
very  large,  tapering,  well-shouldered  and  handsome.  Ber- 
ries large,  oval,  irregular  on  the  surface,  rose  color;  flesh 
hard  and  sweet.    A  fine  late  grape,  but  sometimes  a  shy 


112  THE  GRAPE. 

bearer  if  spurred  in  too  close.    It  may  be  preserved  at 
long  as  the  imported  White  Lisbon. 

Flame-colored    Tokay,    (syn.    Red    Lombard}/.)— 
Bunches    very    large,    well-shouldered    and    handsome 
berries    large,   close-set,    roundish,  pale    red,  sweet    and 
sprightly.     A  fine  late  grape.* 

As  most  persons  will  only  require  to  grow  the  finest 
quality,  and  many  have  but  a  limited  space,  the  above 
list  is  reduced  to  the  best  twenty,  ten,  and  five  (including 
so  far  as  can  be  a  variety  of  color),  as  follows  :— 
COLD   GRAPERY, 

BEST   TWENTY. 

Black  Hamburgh,  White  Gascoine, 

Willmott's  Hamburgh,  White  Frontignan, 

West's  St.  Peters,  White  Nice, 

Black  Prince,  Syrian, 

Black  Frontignan,  PitmastonWhite  Cluster 

Zinfindal,  De  la  Palestine, 

Red  Traminer,  Red  Muscadine, 

Rose  Chasselas,  Grizzly  Frontignan, 

Chasselas  Fontainebleau,  Reine  de  Nice, 

Chasselas  Musque,  Royal  Muscadine, 

BEST  TEN 

Black  Hamburgh,  Chasselas  Fontainebleau, 

West's  St.  Peters,  Syrian, 

Black  Prince,  Zinfindal, 

White  Frontignan,  Reine  de  Nice, 

Grizzly  Frontignan,  Chasselas  Musqu6. 

BEST  FIVE. 

Black  Hamburgh,  White  Frontignan, 

West's  St.  Peters,  Chasselas  Fontainebleau 

Black  Prince, 

FORCING  HOUSE. 

BEST   TEN. 

Cannon  Hall  Muscat,  Chasselas  Fontainebleau 

•  To  this  list  may  safely  be  added  Golden  Hamburgh,  a  new  English  white  grape 
■f  ureal  exee Hence,  and  Bowood  Muscat,  another  which  promises  to  be  yerv  line 


LIST   OP   VARIETIES.  113 

Muscat  of  Alrxandria,  Grizzly  Frontignan, 

Black  Hamburgh,  White  Irontignan, 

Willmot's  Hamburgh,  Chasselas  Musque, 

Dutch  Sweetwater,  Black  Prince. 

BEST  FIVE. 

Muscat  of  Alexandria,  Grizzly  Frontignan, 

Black  Hamburgh,  Black  Prince. 

Chasselas  Fontainebleau, 

RETARDING  HOUSE. 

BEST  TEN. 

Black  Hamburgh,  White  Lisbon, 

Black  Prince,  Muscat  of  Alexandria, 

West's  St.  Peters,  Willmot's  Hamburgh, 

Prince  Albert,  Syrian, 

Eeine  de  Nice,  Flame-colored  Tokay. 

BEST  FIVE. 

Black  Hamburgh,  Muscat  of  Alexandria, 

West's  St.  Peters,  White  Lisbon. 

Reine  de  Nice, 

POT  CULTURE. 

BEST  FIVE. 

Black  Hamburgh,  White  Frontignan 

Chasselas  Fontainebleau,       Black  Prince. 
Grizzly  Frontignan, 

Where  profit  and  quality  combined  are  the  objects 
in  view,  Black  Hamburgh  and  Chasselas  Fontainebleau  in 
the  C3ld  Grapery,  and  Muscat  of  Alexandria  added  in 
the  Forcing  House,  will  take  precedence;  and  we  may 
here  remark,  that  whatever  care  may  be  taken  in  impreg- 
nating the  Muscats,  where  artificial  heat  is  not  used,  the 
set  will  be  uncertain,  owing  to  a  deficiency  of  heat  and 
clear  weatherv  in  some  seasons,  at  blooming  time.    The 


a  14  THE  GRAPE. 

whole  class  requires  more  heat  and  a  drier  atmosphere 
than  is  necessary  for  any  other  sort ;  they  flourish  best 
in  countries  which  are  often  too  arid  and  hot  for  the  suc- 
cessful cultivation  of  grapes  generally.  In  southern  Spain 
and  the  warm  and  dry  climates  of  Lima,  and  similar  locali 
ties  on  the  western  coast  of  South  America,  they  luxuriatt 
without  much  care  or  attention,  and  produce  most  abun 
dant  crops  of  the  finest  fruit.  Under  cultivation,  a  dry 
atmosphere  during  the  period  of  rest,  and  likewise  at  the 
time  of  the  blossoms  setting  for  fruit,  is  almost  indispen- 
sably requisite ;  lacking  this  in  the  first  place,  tie  embryo 
flowers  do  not  receive  sufficient  concentration,  and  a  defi 
ciency  of  the  same  in  the  latter  instance  when  they  ex- 
pand, they  have  not  power  enough  to  impregnate  healthily. 
By  artificially  fertilizing  with  other  varieties,  or  even  by 
their  own  pollen,  this  enfeebled  condition  is  somewhat  as 
sisted.  Where  the  musky-flavored  grapes  are  preferred,  and 
fire  heat  is  not  to  be  applied,  the  want  may  be  made  up  by 
planting  an  extra  quantity  of  Frontignans  and  Ohasselas 
Musque,  which  is  of  the  same  class,  and  one  of  the  finest 
quality — quite  equal  in  this  respect  to  the  Muscats.  All 
of  these  have  the  good  property  of  hanging  long  aftei 
being  ripe,  and  are  also  early  varieties.  The  Ohasselas 
Musque  is  faulty  from  its  liability  to  crack  when  swelling 
for  ripening,  but  a  free  ventilation  at  the  time,  and  a  drier 
atmosphere,  will  considerably  counteract  this  evil,  and 
when  once  ripe,  it  will  continue  good  for  a  long  time. 

To  give  a  long  list  of  native  grapes  would  be  only 
penning  a  useless  array  of  words,  considering  there  are 
Bo  few  that  are  of  sterling  merit.  Of  late  y«ar3  several 
enterprising  cultivators  have  done  something  to  improve 
the  present  quality  by  raising  seedlings,  among  whom  are 
Mr.  Longworth,  of  Cincinnati,  Dr.  Underbill,  of  Oroton 
Point,  and  otters;  but  so  far  there  is  not  much  progress 


LIST   OF  VARIETIES.  115 

to  be  reported.  Two  of  the  best  we  have  at  present  are 
Isabella  and  Catawba,  both  of  which  are  only  natural 
seedlings ;  the  former  from  the  species  Labrusca,  and 
the  latter,  which  is  the  famous  Wine  Grape  of  the  West 
most  likely  an  accidental  cross  between  Labrusca  and 
Vulpina.  What  a  wide  field  is  there  here  for  experiment 
[f  we  have  advanced  no  further  than  what  nature  has 
J  one  for  us,  surely  we  are  only  on  the  first  step  towards 
that  perfection  which  the  energy  of  the  country  can  ac- 
complish. The  necessity  of  a  thing  has  only  to  be  seen, 
when  ingenuity  is  set  to  work  to  bring  about  the  desired 
ultimatum;  and  now  we  see  this  necessity,  there  is  no 
doubt  but  ere  long  we  shall  have  as  great  a  variety  with 
good  quality  for  all  purposes  in  the  indigenous  kinds,  as 
are  at  present  found  in  the  foreign.  This  is  no  over- 
stretched notion,  and  we  are  confident  that  it  both  can  and 
will  be  eventually  accomplished.  The  American  Pomolo 
gical  Society  at  their  last  meeting  came  to  the  conclusion 
that  the  only  sorts  worthy  of  being  considered  best  were 
Isabella,  Catawba,  and  Diana,  with  a  recommendation 
for  further  trial  of  the  Concord.*  That  meeting  contained 
the  best  knowledge  throughout  the  country,  and  our  own 
opinion  is  in  strict  accordance  with  their  decision ;  conse- 
quently it  may  be  better  to  let  this  short  notice  serve  for 
the  present,  with  the  hope  that  the  desirable  addenda  will 
be  forthcoming  hereafter;  and  for  this  reason  there  is  a 
chapter  in  its  proper  place  on  the  raising  of  new  kinds. 

As  the  Scuppernong  class  is  found  to  flourish  the  best 
in  the  Southern  States,  the  few  varieties  contained  in  it 
may  be  added  for  that  region ;  but  these,  like  all  the  rest, 
are  capable  of  great  improvement;  and  it  is  very  likely 
that  if  the  best  varieties  of  California  and  southern  Texas 
be  crossed  upon  them,  a  fine  race  would  be  obtained. 

•  We  may  confidently  accept,  now,  Delaware,  Rtbecca,  Hartford  Prolific  (for  th« 
North),  Clara  and,  perhaps,  Anna.  Many  others  remain  to  be  better  proved  that 
Kt  highly  spoken  of.     See  pages  209-211. 


CHAPTER   XI. 

PRUNING  AND  TRAINING 

There  are  various  methods  of  pruning  and  training  the 
grape-vine,  and  each  method  has  had  its  supporters.  Good 
crops  also  have  heen  produced  by  many  of  them,  under 
skilful  hands,  and  no  doubt  will  continue  to  be.  The  fact 
is,  the  grape-vine  is  so  productive,  and  fruits  so  freely, 
even  with  very  ordinary  treatment,  that  bad  indeed  must 
oe  the  case  when  it  ceases  to  \ield  its  luscious  sweets, 
Yet  while  so  submissive  under  ill  usage,  and  grateful,  as  it 
were,  for  a  common  existence,  like  other  creatures  of  na- 
ture's higher  organization,  its  expansive  powers  will  become 
contracted,  and  the  tractable  disposition  rendered  stubborn, 
by  long  continued  abuse ;  in  which  case,  the  quality  of  the 
fruit  is  deteriorated,  the  bunches  are  small,  or  the  flavoi 
inferior ;  and  as  pruning  has  something  to  do  with  this, 
particularly  the  small  bunches,  it  may  be  well  to  explain 
the  different  modes  that  are  practised,  and  state  the  va- 
rious results  obtained  by  them. 

Although  it  is  best  to  allow  the  grape-vine,  like  all  other 
fruits,  to  judiciously  and  periodically  extend  the  superfi- 
cial surface  of  the  leaves  and  branches,  our  arrangements 
and  conveniences  do  not  always  admit  of  this  desirable 
consummation  being  tarried  out.  Such  being  the  case,  it 
behooves  us,  under  the  circumstances,  not  to  distort  nature 
•any  more  than  we  can  avoid.  In  accordance  with  these 
views,  first,  is  mentioned  the  plan  we  generally  adopt. 

Supposing  that  we  have  got  a  cane  of  the  first  summer's 
growth,  cut  it  back,  in  length  according  to  thickness, 
if  very  strong — say  six  feet,  or  only  middling  so.  to  five 

(116) 


PRUNING   AND  TRAINING.  11? 

or  even  four  feet ;  next  commence  at  the  top  leave  three 
eyes,  the  upper  one  for  the  future  leader,  and  the  twc 
others  for  the  top  pair  of  branches ;  cut  out  the  next  two, 
leave  the  two  beneath,  and  continue  on  so  to  within 
eighteen  inches  of  the  soil,  below  which  remove  all  to  tbe 
bottom,  as  there  is  no  use  in  having  any  fruit  lower  down. 
During  the  next  summer  these  eyes  will,  if  well  attended 
to,  form  side  spurs,  which  in  their  turn  will  have  to  be  cut 
back  to  two,  three,  or  even  four  buds,  as  they  may  be 
plump,  or  well  developed.  Now,  when  these  buds  begin 
to  grow,  we  ought  to  have  a  shoot  from  each  of  them,  and 
as  only  one  bunch  ought  to  be  allowed  to  remain  on  each 
base,  the  other  shoots  will  appear  so  far  superfluous.  Re- 
tain the  one  at  the  base,  or  nearest  to  the  main  cane,  and 
likewise  that  one  above  it  which  shows  the  best  bunch ; 
rub  off  the  others,  and  pinch  out  the  fruit  from  the  lower, 
and  also  all,  excepting  the  best  formed  bunch  on  the  upper 
one.  As  they  progress  in  growth,  take  out  the  top  of  that 
which  has  fruit  on,  three  or  four  leaves  above  the  bunch, 
and  let  the  other  extend  until  it  has  unfolded  seven  oi 
eight  leaves ;  then  stop  it.  Bring  the  bearing  brancher 
down,  nearly  horizontal,  to  the  upright  cane,  and  tie  them 
to  the  side-wires ;  train  the  others  at  an  oblique  angle,  and 
tie  them  likewise.  They  will  now  appear  as  seen  in  Fig 
16.  a  is  the  base  shoot,  and  b  the  fruiting  one.  As  both 
-continue  to  push  forth  fresh  growth  from  Fig.  16 

time  to  time  through  the  summer,  nip  out 
to  one  leaf  above  where  last  stopped* 
After  the  fruit  is  cut,  and  the  wood  be- 
comes ripe,  say  two  or  three  weeks  before 
the  leaves  fall,  go  over  and  cut  (b)  clean 
away  to  the  base  of  (a),  which  leaves  the 
spurs  for  fruiting  the  next  year  as  near  to 
the  main  cane  as  if  the  close  cut  method 


118  THE   GKAPE. 

had  been  adopted,  with  the  advantage  of  having  spurs 
which  have  not  "been  burdened  with  fruit,  and  also  the 
probability  of  future  finer  bunches,  for  the  most  prominent 
and  well-formed  buds  always  bring  the  best  shaped  and 
largest  clusters,  and  this  action  gives  a  better  chance  of 
obtaining  such.  There  is  no  fear  of  not  being  able  to  get 
shoots  from  the  base,  if  properly  managed ;  for,  in  most 
cases,  adventitious  buds,  and  generally  more  than  will  be 
wanted,  are  developed,  and  have  to  be  rubbed  off.  When 
these  side  spurs  have  accumulated,  and  extend  along  the 
whole  length  to  the  top  of  the  house,  the  leader  may  be 
cut  off  above  the  top  pair,  and  if  proper  care  has  been 
taken  in  breaking  the  buds,  as  previously  advised,  there 
will  be  a  uniform  strength  over  the  whole  vine.  If  the 
canes  have  been  previously  disbudded,  there  is  no  danger 
of  over-crowding,  as  the  following  year  the  bearing  branch 
is  brought  down  to  the  same  position  as  that  of  last  season, 
and  the  other  one  trained  more  upright  into  the  vacant 
space. 

All  trees  have  a  natural  tendency  to  push  the  strongest 
growth  to  the  top  and  extreme  ends,  particularly  while 
young  and  vigorous ;  and  if  the  side  branches  are  very 
closely  cut  away  periodically,  the  sap  is  directed  more 
strongly  upwards,  the  lateral  force  is  reduced  in  a  cor- 
responding ratio,  and  the  side  branches  are  rendered 
weaker.  This  is  often  seen  in  the  grape-vine,  and  is  as 
often  a  cause  of  complaint.  Now,  the  above  method  very 
much  counteracts  this  evil,  as  a  greater  quantity  of  leaves 
are  encouraged  from  each  individual  base,  and,  of  course, 
a  greater  draw  of  fluid  is  produced  into  the  side  I  ranches, 
which,  when  once  established,  remains  permanent ;  *nd, 
so  long  as  the  same  causes  are  in  existence,  the  flow  is 
equalized,  the  side  spurs  correspondingly  stronger,  the 
buds  become  plumper,  and  the  bunches  larger.    To  still 


PRUNING   AND  TRAINING.  119 

further  encourage  this  lateral  action,  it  is  not  advisable  te 
take  out  the  overplus  buds  in  the  fall,  at  the  same  time 
that  the  cane  is  disbudded,  for  the  simple  reason  that  the 
plants  are  collecting  food,  and  filling  up  the  seemingly 
latent  parts  through  the  winter,  excepting  when  the  whole 
structure  is  frozen,  and  the  channels  of  absorption  thereby 
stopped ;  consequently,  all  the  buds  receive  a  due  share. 
Although  a  portion  of  this  stored  up  nutriment  is  wasted, 
by  allowing  the  useless  buds  to  expand,  we  gain  the  ad 
vantage  of  encouraging  a  greater  flow  into  the  side  branches 
until  the  time  when  the  unfolding  leaves  are  enabled  to 
keep  up  the  action. 

Another  method  of  spur-pruning,  and  the  one  most  gen- 
erally practised,  is  to  allow  the  cane  to  extend  itself  up 
wards  each  season,  as  above  described,  until  it  reaches  the 
top,  and  retain  the  side  spurs  closer  and  alternately 
arranged  along  the  cane ;  each  year  resting,  or  not  allow- 
ing to  bear,  every  alternate  spur,  and  when  pruning,  the 
cutting  of  all  the  spurs  close  down  to  one  eye  ;  or  leaving 
those  for  fruiting  the  following  season  somewhat  longer, 
and  in  the  next  fall  cutting  the  same  spur  close  into  the 
cane;  the  object  being  to  keep  the  side  branches  "at 
home."  Fig.  17  shows  the  cane  when  pruned.  Very 
good  crops  are  often  produced  in  this  way,  with  Fig.  17. 
otherwise  good  treatment ;  but  in  the  first  instance 
the  bunches  are  generally  small,  and  although  in 
*he  latter  this  is  for  a  few  years  obviated,  still  there 
is  the  disadvantage  of  having  to  cut  hack  to  the 
main  stem,  and  of  trusting  entirely  to  the  buds  which 
may  thus  be  prompted  to  push  forth.  This  cljse 
cutting  weakens  down  the  lateral  force  of  the  plant's 
energy,  in  a  short  time  the  spurs  become  weak,  and 
the  whole  cane  has  eventually  to  be  cut  down ;  by 
which,  to  say  the  least  of  it,  one  year's  crop  is  lost.    W« 


120  THE   GRAPE. 

are  aware,  that  in  thus  speaking  of  this  walking-stick 
mode  of  pruning,  we  are  going  in  the  face  of  many  good 
grape-growers ;  but  the  fact  of  a  thing  being  generally 
"  fashionable,"  is  no  criterion  of  its  excellence*  Nature's 
action  in  all  these  matters  ought  to  be  our  guide,  and  the 
mvce  we  adapt  ourselves  to  her  laws,  the  more  permanent 
will  be  our  success. 

Sometimes  the  long-rod  method  is  practised.  In  this 
case,  the  first  summer  the  cane  is  trained  up  as  in  the 
former  modes,  only  left  somewhat  longer  when  pruned, 
and  this  suffered  to  bear  a  full  crop  the  next  season;  after 
which  it  is  cut  clean  out  to  one  eye  from  the  bottom  ;  an- 
other cane  having  been  taken  up  during  the  same  time 
from  its  base,  to  afterwards  take  the  place  of  the  one  last 
fruited,  and  so  on.  By  this  plan,  which  is  seen  in  Fig.  18, 
Fig.  la  fine  fruit  may  be  obtained,  as  the  bunches  ema- 
nate from  strong  buds,  which,  if  they  have 
been  previously  well  ripened,  throw  off  hand- 
some and  large  clusters ;  but  there  is  the  evil 
of  having  to  cut  off,  at  one  fell  swoop,  the  half 
of  the  plant,  leaving  no  perennial  structural  base, 
excepting  the  very  lowest  stump.  This  whole- 
sale and  oft-repeated  cutting  keeps  the  plant 
in  a  continual  state  of  excitement,  which  is  sure 
to  eventually  show  itself  in  premature  weak- 
ness. It  is  sometimes  useful  to  resort  to  this  plan,  where 
the  upright  training  surface  is  contracted,  as  in  narrow  or 
short  raftered  pits  ;  but  here  it  may  be  modified  by  ex 
tending  and  training  the  leading  shoots  horizontally  a 
little  further  each  season,  and  taking  upright  canes  from 
thes8  main  branches,  at  the  distance  of  two  feet  apart ;  in 
vhich  case,  each  alternate  upright  may  be  cut  out  to  an 
3ye,  after  bearing,  and  another  shoot  be  taken  up  the  next 
season,  to  <Vuit  in  its  turn,  as  shown  in  Fig  19.    As  the 


fKUNING  AND  TRAINING.  121 

horizontal  shoots  elongate,  the  Fig.  It 

vines  which  are  right  and  left 
of  thorn  may  be  taken  out. 

We  may  also  make  an  ex- 
ception in  favor  of  the  last 
mentioned,  with  regard  to  vine- 
yard culture,  for  it  is  the  best 
of  all  others  for  the  purpose, 
on  account  of  the  facility  with  which  the  canes  can  be  tied 
to  the  supports,  and  the  permanently  less  quantity  of 
plants  that  it  is  necessary  to  congregate  on  a  given  space. 
And  here  we  have  evidence  to  prove  the  above  mentioned 
assertions  respecting  the  shortening  of  vitality;  for  a 
plantation  trained  on  the  single  cane  short-cut  plan,  and 
every  season  subjected  to  this  severe  lopping,  requires 
occasional  renewing.  So  much  is  this  the  case  in  some 
parts  of  Europe,  that  a  fresh  plantation  of  vines  has  to  be 
made  every  three  or  four  years.  Now,  as  this  can  be  pre- 
vented with  so  little  expense  or  trouble,  and  there  is  a 
more  than  counterbalancing  advantage  arising  from  the 
system,  it  is  well,  in  this  particular  instance,  to  follow 
what  best  answers  the  purpose  in  view. 

The  renewal  method  is  adopted  by  some,  which  is  as 
follows :  The  one  year  old  cane  is  cut  back  to  about  half 
the  length  of  the  rafter,  and  allowed  to  bear  the  next 
season ;  while  fruiting,  the  top  growth  is  conducted  per- 
pendicularly, and  at  the  proper  time  is  pruned  off  at  the 
top  of  the  house ;  during  the  same  summer,  another  cane 
is  taken  up  from  the  bottom,  and  on  one  side,  which  is  C7t 
back  one-half  as  the  other  one  was  the  previous  year. 
The  next  season,  this  new  cane  is  allow  od  to  fruit,  and  also 
the  upper  part  of  the  first  one,  the  side  spurs  on  tha 
lower  half  having  been  cut  out.  Thus,  there  is  a  full 
crop,   only  each   half  is  on   two   separate  canes.    Tho 

e 


122 


THE  GRAPE. 


youngest  one  is  now  suffered  to  grew,  and  is  in  iti  turn 
cut  off  at  the  top,  another  brought  up  from  the  bottom. 
and  the  oldest  cut  clear  out.     Fig.  20  represents  the  three 
Fig.  20.  separate    canes    in    their    respective 

stages.  Here  we  have  the  fruit  always 
borne  on  young  and  vigorous  wood 
which  generally  produces  the  finest 
fruit ;  no  spurring  is  required,  and 
there  is  the  advantage  of  a  large  bulk 
of  leaves  and  branches,  the  former  of 
which  affords  nourishment;  and  pro- 
motes the  maturity  of  the  roots ;  but 
the  tops  require  somewhat  more  side 
room,  and  the  vines  ought  to  be  planted 
a  little  further  apart  than  is  necessary 
where  spurring  is  resorted  to.  Where 
a  vine  is  allotted  only  a  certain  space,  this  is  one  of  the 
best  methods  of  training,  but  it  is  unsightly,  and  if  the 
same  advantages  can  be  gained  otherwise,  and  at  the  same 
time  beauty  in  appearance,  it  is  certainly  desirable  to  in- 
sure both.  Now  the  first  described  mode  accomplishes 
this  object  in  the  grapery  and  also  retains  a  larger  amount 
of  solid  structure  in  the  form  of  a  strong  permanent  stem, 
through  which  can  flow  an  ample  supply  of  sap  to  the 
leaves,  and  receive  back  the  food,  elaborated  by  them, 
down  to  the  roots  in  a  healthy  way,  and  without  any  un- 
due excitement  to  the  whole  organization. 

But  the  best  of  all  plans,  and  also  the  most  natural  is, 
to  extend  the  head  somewhat  each  season,  so  that  finally, 
one  vine  may  cover  a  large  surface.  Nature  works  by 
certain  fixed  laws  which  man  cannot  alter,  and  any  long 
continued  attempt  to  force  her  to  swerve  from  her  own 
course,  is  sure  to  end  in  final  failure  and  disappointment 
It  cannot  be  denied,  that  much  success  is  obtained  by 


PRUNING   AND   TRAINING.  123 

modes  of  cultivation  which  would  appear  to  speak  to  the 
contrary,  but  observe  the  ultimate  results  patiently,  with 
care  and  without  prejudice,  and  all  these  abuses  will  tell 
their  own  woful  tale. 

One  of  the  causes  why  the  grape  vine  so  soon  wears 
cut,  as  it  is  generally  considered  to  do,  is  produced  by 
such  close  pruning  as  we  yearly  subject  it  to — the  volume 
of  the  plants  is  increased  for  three  or  four  years  at  first, 
and  afterwards  only  allowed  the  same  extent  of  surface. 
There  is  no  other  fruit-bearing  plant  that  would  continue 
to  prosper  long  with  this  treatment ;  take  for  example  a 
peach  or  an  apple,  allow  either  the  one  or  the  other  to 
produce  a  long  straight  stem  of  twelve  or  fifteen  feet,  and 
cut  in  the  side  branches  to  an  eye,  never  suffering  it  any 
further  extension  but  what  is  produced  in  the  summer — 
again  to  be  cut  out — and  it  would,  after  a  few  years'  constant 
excitement,  dwindle  down  to  a  mere  stump,  and  finally  die 
out.  If  the  grape-vine  does  not  show  the  same  so  readily, 
it  is  only  because  of  its  extremely  tenacious  constitutional 
powers,  for  the  same  law  governs  both,  and  both  alike 
must  sooner  or  later  arrive  at  the  same  imbecile  condition 

As  a  vine,  if  extended  over  a  great  space,  would  only 
admit  of  a  limited  number  being  grown,  it  becomes  neces- 
sary to  explain  how  this  may  be  accomplished ;  and  like- 
wise how,  during  the  interval,  the  usual  crop  may  be 
secured.  In  planting,  place  in  the  centre  of  the  intended 
row  a  vine  of  known  gooa  qualities;  at  intervals  of  about 
twelve  feet  plant  others  of  equal  merit,  and  fill  up  the 
vacancies  with  sorts  as  fancy  may  dictate,  so  that  each 
one  may  stand  about  three  feet  apart  from  the  next. 
During  the  first  two  seasons  train  all  up  as  usual ;  so  far 
we  have  elongated  the  surface  upwards,  and  the  caneg 
will  be  near  the  top  of  the  house.  In  pruning  the  second 
fall,  as  there  are  side  spurs  on  the  lower  half  of  the  canes 


124 


THE   GRAPE. 


in  the  Louse,  or  on  the  whole  length  in  the  vineyard,  cut 
these  in  to  about  three  eyes.  Bear  each  other  vine  the 
next  year  as  heavy  as  it  is  thought  advisable,  so  as  to 
secure  the  fruit  ripening  and  coloring  well ;  ease  the  others 
in  like  proportion,  which  will  give  vigor  and  assist  them 
afterwards.  When  the  fruit  is  cut  on  those  vines  which 
have  borne  the  heaviest  crop  take  them  out,  and  when 
pruning  the  others  leave  the  side  branches  about  a  foot 
long,  which  will  fill  up  the  vacant  spaces.  Next  year 
train  these  branches  horizontally,  and  in  the  fall  following, 
spur  them  as  advised  above,  with  the  upright  cane,  and  at 
the  same  time  leave  another  length  on  the  end  of  each. 
As  these  side  branches  continue  to  be  lengthened  and  fill 
up  more  space,  bear  those  vines  on  each  side  of  them  some- 
what heavier,  and  afterwards  take  them  out.  In  the  course 
of  a  few  years  each  vine  will  appear  as  seen  in  Fig.  21. 

Fig.  21 


iJy  this  system  it  will  readily  be  seen  that  few  varieties 
can  be  grown  in  a  limited  space,  but  quality  always  gives 
the  most  permanent  satisfaction,  and  where  variety  ig 
required  it  may  be  had  in  the  first  instance  and  quality 
uecured  afterwards,  if  care  is  taken  in  planting  good  sorts 
in  the  right  places  at  the  commencement. 

It  may  be  thought  by  some  persons  that  so  few  vines 


PRUNING   ANL    TRAINING.  125 

*re  not  able  to  carry  a  full  crop  in  a  given  space;   nevei 
fear  that,  for  if  there  is  sufficient  surface  of  well-ripened 
wood,  the  roots  in  good  order,  and  the  expansion  judiciously 
accumulated,  the   quantity  of  fruit  may  be  gradually  in- 
creased until  a  ton  weight  may  be  taken  from  off  a  single 
vine,  and  that  without  injury,  as  is  proved  by  some  which 
are  now  in  existence,  and  are  known  to  be  over  two  hun- 
dred years  old,  among  which  may  be  mentioned  the  large 
Hamburgh   at  Hampton   Court,  near   London,    that    has 
frequently  borne  the  above  weight  in  a  season.     Show 
me  an  instance  where  the  same  longevity  and  continued 
fruitfulness   has    been   gained    by  the    ordinary   walking 
stick  confining  to  one  cane  or  short-cut  method,  and  then 
I  will  believe  that  nature  can  alter  her  course,  and  that 
man's  simple  ideas  can  control  the  wonderful  action  of  his 
Creator's  intelligence. 

That  judicious  shortening  in  at  the  right  season,  and  under 
proper  circumstances,  is  beneficial  has  been  clearly  demon- 
strated;  we   know  that  it  tends    to    give    vigorous   and 
jiealthy  growth;  both  theory  and  practice  tell  us  so.     By 
it    we  gain  a  stronger  propelling  power  from  the  roots, 
without  reducing  their  volume,  or  enfeebling  their  energy. 
But  to  cut  annually,  so  free  growing  a  plant  as  the  grape- 
arte  to  a  mere  stump,  is,  to  say  the  least  of  it,  a  barbarous 
mutilation  of  God's  providence,  and  is  sure  to  end  in  prema- 
ture weakness,  sappy  and  papery  leaves,  spindling  ill-ripen- 
ed wood,  and  barrenness.     By  this  method,  last  described, 
the  roots  have  ample  space  to  luxuriate  in  ;  one  vine  would 
eventually  occupy  and  fill  a  whole  border,  which  usually 
has  to  accommodate  a  great  number,  and  as  the  head  has 
a  corresponding  expansion,  according  to  the  requirements 
of  the   subject,  a  greater   certainty   of  permanence  and 
luture  vitality  is  gained.     As  a  matter  of  profit  it  is  the 
most  beneficial,  for  there  is  surely  more  lasting  gain  where 


126  THE  GRAPE. 

a  house  or  even  a  vineyard  will  continue  to  yield  a  good 
crop  for  two  or  three  generations,  than  when  the  planting, 
making  fresh  borders,  &c,  has  to  be  renewed  every  ten, 
or  at  most  fifteen  years. 

la  making  these  remarks  we  would  not  wish  to  be 
severe,  for  there  are  many  persons  so  situated  by  pe- 
culiar circumstances  as  to  prevent  them  from  carrying 
out  the  most  natural  or  best  methods  of  culture,  even 
though  they  may  be  aware  of  the  error  of  their  present 
practice,  yet  there  are  others  who  have  popular  and  prac- 
tical prejudices  to  overcome,  before  they  will  be  enabled 
to  see  the  desirableness  of  asking  themselves  a  few 
physiological  questions,  or  take  the  trouble  to  find  the 
answers  in  nature's  voluminous  folios.  May  we  hope  that 
these  set  notions  and  dogmas  may  speedily  vanish,  from 
this  free  country  at  least,  where  the  mutual  and  physical 
industry  of  man  is  unfettered,  and  where  we  may  become 
a  pattern  to  the  world,  in  good  culture,  if  not  in  artificial 
grandeur. 

We  cannot  let  the  present  part  of  the  subject  pass  by 
without  a  few  remarks  on  summer  pruning,  and  as  it  may 
be  thought  that  this  is  merely  a  repetition  of  former  words, 
we  plead  the  importance  of  the  matter  for  the  introduc- 
tion. It  has  often  been  advised,  and  that,  too,  by  some  of 
the  best  cultivators,  to  stop  the  bearing  shoots  at  an  eye, 
or  in  some  instances  two  eyes  above  the  bunch,  and  like- 
wise to  do  the  same  with  the  young  cane  when  it  has 
elongated  to  the  top  of  the  rafter,  or  the  upright  support ; 
also  to  pinch  out  all  laterals  as  they  are  produced,  thereby 
making  the  operation  into  a  rule.  There  is  no  doubt  that 
many  conscientiously  believe  such  a  system  to  be  judi- 
cious, and  because  their  crops  are  satisfactory  to  themselves, 
they  continue  on  the  same  practice  without  further  con- 
sideration ;  hut  this  does  not  close  up  the  avenue  for  free 


PRUNING  AND  TRAINING.  127 

discussion,  neither  does  it  prove  that  it  is  the  ultimatum 
of  perfection.  If  we  pursue  the  investigation  of  this  mat- 
ter in  a  physiological  manner,  we  are  led  to  understand 
that  all  summer  pruning  tends  to  lessen  the  vigor,  and 
cripple  the  energy  of  all  plants ;  and  practical  experience, 
combined  with  observation,  proves  the  fact.  Arguing 
from  this  point,  we  may  be  accused  of  advocating  no  sum- 
mer pruning  at  all,  to  which  we  say,  •«  not  guilty."  If 
the  greatest  extension  of  branches  and  corresponding 
roots,  or  bulk  of  timber  were  the  object,  then  the  less 
pruning  the  better,  but  the  present  position  is  a  consider- 
ation of  circumstances  and  adaptability,  independent,  to  a 
certain  extent,  of  nature's  action;  the  object  being  to 
coax  her  to  accommodate  herself  to  our  conveniences  ;  and 
as  the  grape  vine  is  one  of  the  most  easily  trained  of  her 
family  we  have,  in  this  case,  a  partial  control.  We  ought 
then,  to  consider  what  we  are  doing,  and  how  far  we  are 
acting  in  unison  with  what  are  known  to  be  established 
laws,  and  to  infringe  too  far  upon  these  is  sure  to  produce 
evil.  This  or  that  man's  dogmatical  opinion  must  cer- 
tainly fail  unless  it  be  based  upon  this  indisputable  cer- 
tainty,— where  is  the  use  of  following  this-should-be, 
or  that  ought-to-be,  unless  somewhat  in  accordance  with 
these  natural  demands.  Yet  we  find  a  prolific  and  luxu- 
riant plant,  such  as  the  grape-vine  is,  stubbed  in,  cut 
close,  and  sheared  like  a  convict, — we  were  near  saying 
6haved  too,  for  the  pinching  back  to  one  eye  above  the 
fruit  is  nearly  tantamount  to  that  close  oporation.  The 
reason  given  for  this  peculiar  treatment  is,  that  the  fruit, 
and  also  the  plant,  is  strengthened  by  it.  How  would  it 
strengthen  one's  toes  by  cutting  off  a  finger,  supposing 
another  would  grow  in  its  place  ;  or  would  an  animal  pro 
duce  the  finer  offspring  if  the  body  were  to  be  mutilated? 
It  is  just  possible  that  an  amount  of  gangrene  would  be 


128  THE   GRAPE. 

the  consequence;  but  as  to  truly  healthful  action,  it  ift 
possible  that  we  should  be  none  the  gainers.  Perhaps 
this  kind  of  analogy  may  be  thought  a  very  vulgar  way 
of  explaining  what  might  be  shown  in  more  delicate 
words;  but  if  coarse,  the  true  meaning  is  purposely  exhi- 
bited, to  show  up  the  ridiculousness  of  curtailing  nature. 
As  stated  above,  the  subject  is  a  matter  of  circumstances, 
we  have  to  do  with  a  family  of  plants  that  would  occupy 
a  great  volume  of  surface,  yet  we  wish  to  have  a  large 
number,  comparatively  speaking,  in  a  small  space,  and  the 
best  we  can  do  is,  not  to  weaken  down  natural  energy 
more  than  there  is  occasion  for.  Pruning,  properly  per- 
formed, and  in  the  right  season,  is  certainly  of  great  ser- 
vice ;  we  find  it  so  practically,  its  good  effects  are  every- 
where to  be  seen  when  it  is  adopted ;  but  so  far  and 
no  further  is  it  advisable.  If  proof  be  required  of  the 
injury  that  may  be  done  by  too  close  stopping,  let  any 
one  try  the  experiment  of  pinching  in  closely  the  side 
shoots  of  a  part  of  his  vines,  and  leave  the  others  several 
joints  longer,  and  he  will  find  at  the  end  of  the  growing 
season  that  those  which  were  left  the  longest  are  better 
ripened  than  the  shorter  ones,  providing  the  light  has  had 
equal  influence  on  both.  If  the  vines  are  no  further 
apart  than  three  feet,  the  distance  will  allow  a  shoot  on 
each  side  of  fifteen  to  eighteen  inches,  upon  which  there 
may  be  from  seven  to  eight  leaves  ;  and  allowing  the 
fruit  to  be  on  the  second  or  third  joint,  there  will  still 
remain  four  or  five  leaves  above  it,  each  of  which  will  do 
hg  duty  in  elaborating  the  crude  juices,  and  assimilating 
the  carbonic  acid  absorbed,  thereby  adding  to  the  bulk 
and  solidity  of  the  whole  structure ;  and  if  so,  increasing 
the  amount  and  greater  firmness  of  the  roots ;  for,  accord- 
ing to  the  amount  and  action  of  the  foliage  under  favora- 
ble influences,  so  are  the  underground  extremities  encour- 


PRUNING   AND   TRAINING.  129 

aged.     As  stated  elsewhere,  the  grape  vine  is  a  plant  of 
great  longevity  ;   notwithstanding  which,  with  the  prac- 
tice of  some  vignerons,  it  is  considered  to  be  worn  out  in 
a  few  years,  and  fresh  plantations  have  to  be  made  period- 
ically.    This  may  in  vineyard  culture  answer  the  particu- 
W  purposes  of  the  cultivator,  and  by  the  method  of  only 
allowing  a  few  feet  of  bearing  surface  to  each  individual, 
a  great  amount  of  fruit,  and  suitable  quality  for  his  pur- 
pose, may  be  obtained  from  a  limited  extent  of  land  em- 
ployed.     Here  is   evidence  that  too  much  cu -tailing  of 
the  plant's  natural   disposition  shortens  life,  am  weakens 
down  the  constitution  to  such    an  extent  as  to    make  it 
worthless,   comparatively  speaking,  in  a  very  short  time. 
Considering  that  there   is   not   a  very  great    expense   in 
replanting  a  vineyard,  the  means  may  be  said   to  justify 
the  end,  but    when  we  come  to  the  outlay  incurred   in 
erecting  glass  houses,  preparing  borders,  &c,  it  behooves 
us  to  think  well  how  we  can  pay  back  a  permanent  inte 
rest  on  the  capital  invested,  and  if  there  be  any  method 
that  will  keep  a  house  of  vines  in  healthy  bearing  for  a 
long  time  without  the  requirement  of  renewal,  surely  it 
must  be  wisdom  to  adopt  it.     If  the  grape  vine  is  a  long 
liver  when  allowed  to  extend,  and  soon  worn  out  if  kept 
in  small  compass,  is  it  not  reasonable,  if  we  wish  perma- 
nency, that  all  the  available  space  that  we  have  in  the 
superficial  area  of  a  house  should  be  covered  with  healthy 
leaves,  in  order  the  better  to  concentrate  and  store  up  the 
food  for  future  development,  and  add  each  year  a  fresh 
layer  of  well  organized  alburnum  to  the  previously  exist- 
ing sound  vascular  tissue  ?  If  we  take  further  into  account 
the  glutted  preparations  that  are  often   compounded  for 
vinery  boraers,  and  the  consequently  immense  encourage- 
ment given  to  luxuriant  growth,  it  really  appears  surpris- 
ing that  such  close  cutting  in  as  is  generally  practised 


130  THE  GRAPE. 

does  not  either  till,  or  cause  disease  in  less  time  than  is 
the  case,  and  it  is  just  possible  that  the  present  ravages  of 
mildew  in  Europe  have  been  accelerated  by  this  cause 
Such  are  the  writer's  ideas  upon  the  subject,  and  as  the 
present  object  is  to  enlighten  the  learner,  they  are  submit, 
ted  to  approval  or  censure,  as  each  practical  and  suc- 
cessful cultivator  may  think  fit,  with  the  conscientious 
belief  that  such  is  more  becoming  the  present  age  of  pro 
gress,  and  if  followed  up  would  be  the  means  of  prolong- 
ing the  healthfulness  and  fruitfulness  of  the  grape-vine. 


CHAPTER  XII. 

PROPAGATION  AND    THE   RAISING    OF 
NEW   KINDS. 

The  grape-vine  may  be  propagated  from  Eyes,  Cut 
tings,  Layers,  Seed,  and  by  Grafting, 

Eyes. — An  Eye  is  a  sbort  portion  of  a  brancli  having 
only  one  bud,  Fig.  22.  This  method  is  most  commonly 
made  use  of  for  increasing  the  exotic  varieties,  and  is 
equally  applicable  to  the  natives;  it  is  the  best  for  all 
purposes,  where  there  is  the  convenience  of  a  glass  frame 
or  hot-house.  The  process  is  as  follows : 
Any  time  from  the  beginning  of  Febru- 
ary to  the  last  of  March  take  well- 
ripened  yearling  branches,  and  cut  into 
as  many  pieces  as  there  are  buds,  so 
that  one  remain  to  each  portion ;  reduce  the  wood  above 
and  below,  by  a  slanting  cut,  diverging  from  the  bud  on 
both  ends ;  have  in  readiness  as  many  pots,  propagating 
pans,  or  shallow  boxes  with  holes  in  the  bottom,  as  may 
be  needed,  throw  in  an  inch  or  two  of  small  lumps  of 
charcoal  or  broken  crocks ;  over  this,  place  a  layer  of 
moss,  and  fill  up  with  soil,  of  loose  but  moderately  fertile 
texture ;  make  it  somewhat  solid,  and  press  the  prepared 
buds  into  it,  an  inch  apart,  so  that  the  tops  be  level  with 
the  surface;  place  them  in  a  gentle  hot-bed,  or  a  house 
where  a  night  temperature  of  55°  to  60Q  is  maintained ; 
keep  the  earth  moist,  but  not  too  wet,  as  the  young  shoots 
when  they  begin  to  protrude  are  liable  to  be  injured  by 

0M) 


132  THE   GRAPE. 

dampness.  For  the  same  reason,  if  a  hot-bed  be  us'id, 
great  care  should  be  taken  that  there  is  no  accumulation 
of  rank  steam,  or  condensed  moisture.  In  five  or  six 
weeks  they  will  have  elongated  an  inch  or  two  above  the 
soil,  when  they  may  be  potted  off  singly  into  half-pint 
pots,  and  still  retained  in  the  same  or  a  similar  situation 
When  they  have  grown  some  five  or  six  inches  more,  these 
pots  will  be  filled  with  roots,  and  the  plants  may  be  trans- 
ferred into  those  of  quart  size,  which  will  be  sufficient  for 
the  season,  if  only  stocky  plants  for  future  planting  be 
required,  but  when  the  intention  is  to  make  strong  plants 
for  fruiting  next  year  in  pots,  it  will  be  requisite  to  re- 
move from  time  to  time,  according  as  they  progress,  into 
gallons  and  two  gallons.  The  shoots  will  also  need  to  be 
tied  to  stakes  as  they  continue  to  grow.  If  healthy  stock 
is  wanted  it  will  be  necessary  to  place  the  plants,  during 
the  summer,  in  the  same  growing  temperature  as  is  recom- 
mended for  fruiting  vines,  and  by  care  and  encouragement 
these  young  canes  may  be  extended  to  twelve  or  fifteen 
feet  long ;  it  is  however  desirable  that  the  tops  should  be 
nipped  out  at  the  height  of  about  six  feet,  which  will  pre- 
vent crowding,  and  allow  the  light  to  act  more  freely  on 
the  lower  leaves,  which  in  their  turn  mature  the  buds  on 
each  axil.  As  stated  above,  this  strong  growth  is  not  neces- 
sary, unless  for  pot  culture ;  for  a  small  well-ripened  vine, 
with  plenty  of  healthy  roots,  is  quite  as  good  for  perma 
nent  planting,  and  with  after  good  management  will  make 
headway  equal  to  a  stronger  one. 

Cuttings. — A  cutting  as  generally  understood  is  a  length 
of  the  last  season's  cane  containing  several  buds,  Fig.  23. 
To  propagate  by  this  plan  proceed  as  follows  :  So  soon  as 
the  ground  is  in  good  working  order  after  the  breaking  up 
of  winter,  dig,  and  break  up  well  with  the  spade,  a  sufficient 
plot  for  the  quantity  intended ;  string  a  line  across  one 


PROPAGATION   AND    RAIblNG. 


133 


end,  cut  a  trench  about  six  inches  deep,  prepare  the  cut- 
tings as  shown  above,  and  place  each  six  inches  apart 
against  the  bank  so  formed ;  leave  one  or  two  eyes  Fj  ^ 
above  ground,  press  the  soil  tight  to  them,  and 
afterwards  level  with  the  spade ;  eighteen  inches 
from  this  row  open  another  trench,  and  so  proceed 
until  all  is  done.  If  the  season  should  prove  dry 
before  the  roots  have  got  sufficient  hold,  it  is  ad- 
visable to  use  water ;  and  if  such  be  required  do 
not  dribble,  but  give  enough  to  soak  down,  that  the 
earth  may  be  moistened  below.  One  application  in 
this  way  will  do  more  good  than  a  dozen  sprink- 
lings, which  only  bake  the  ground  on  the  surface, 
without  any  benefit.  This  method  is  the  most  economical, 
and  all  things  considered,  it  is  the  best  for  the  hardy 
kinds,  for  which  alone  it  is  suitable. 

Another  mode  of  increase  by  cuttings,  technically 
termed  coiling  is  to  take  a  length  of  cane,  say  from  three 
to  four  feet  fong,  and  coil  the  lower  part  around  on  the 
inside  of  a  large  pot,  which  is  afterwards  filled  up  with 
earth  (such  as  is  recommended  for 
fruiting  in  pot  culture),  leaving  a  few 
eyes  above  the  top,  Fig.  24.  This  is 
of  service  only  when  strong  and  vigor- 
ous plants  are  wanted  in  the  least  pos- 
sible time  for  pot  culture,  and  when 
there  are  any  long  prunings  to  spare, 
it  is  the  best  method  that  can  be 
adopted,  but  it  is  only  in  such  cases 
that  it  is  of  any  use. 

Layer?  are  branches  of  the  plant 
bent  down,  a  part  of  each  being  covered  with  earth  wLilf 
the  base  remains  attached,  Fig.  25.  These  layers  throw 
out  roots  and  may  be  afterwards  cut  off  from  the  mot)»ei 


Fisr.  24. 


134 


TUE    GRAPE. 


plant.  The  most  common  process  is  to  merely  cover  with 
soil,  leaving  the  ends  protruding,  any  time  from  the  fall 
of  the  leaf  until  the  rise  of  the  sap,  but  as  there  is  a 
"  best"  in  all  things,  so  in  this,  and  we  may  as  well  show 
it.     Early  in  the  summer,  when  the  young  growth  has 


Fig.  25 


attained  to  the  length  of  six  or  eight  inches,  bring  down 
the  branch  intended  to  be  laid,  cover  the  whole  length  to 
the  depth  of  three  inches,  and  peg  it  down,  leaving  the 
tops  that  were  the  previous  laterals  above  the  soil ;  during 
the  summer  roots  will  be  emitted  at  every  joint,  and  of 
course  there  will  be  as  many  plants  as  there  are  shoots 
The  same  operation  may  be  performed  any  time  up  to  the 
middle  of  July,  but  if  sooner  done,  a  better  stock  of  good 
and  well-rooted  plants  will  be  the  result.  It  sometimes  sc 
happens,  that  an  increase  is  wanted  from  some  favorite  ot 
new  variety  that  may  be  in  bearing  and 
trained  in  the  grapery,  without  having 
to  wait  so  long  as  the  more  ordinary 
methods  require.  In  such  case,  one  or 
more  of  the  side  branches  may  be  drawn 
through  the  bottom  of  a  flower-pot,  the 
hole  of  which  has  been  made  large  for 
the  purpose,  or  the  pot  may  be  divided 
into  halves  and  again  fixed  together  by 
a  copper  wire ;  at  the  same  time  a  sharp 
knife  should  be  passed  round  the  stem 


Fi£.  26 


PROPAGATION   AND   FAISING.  135 

inside  so  as  to  sever  the  bark,  but  no  deeper,  which  will 
facilitate  the  emission  of  roots :  the  pot  may  be  then  filled 
up  with  earth,  and  suspended  in  a  very  convenient  posi- 
tion, and  if  kept  moist  will  soon  be  filled  with  roots ;  after 
which  it  may  be  cut  away  and  treated  as  other  stock 
Fig.  26  is  an  example  of  this  kind  of  layering. 

Grafting  can  be  only  considered  as  just  coming  within 
the  scope  of  propagation,  the  object  being  not  so  much  to 
increase  the  number  of  plants,  as  the  changing  01  one 
kind  on  to  the  root  or  stock  of  another.  It  is  generally 
adopted  to  obtain  a  superior  or  more  favorite  variety  than 
the  one  that  is  occupying  some  particular  spot,  and  has 
been  recommended  as  capable  of  increasing  the  hardi- 
ness of  the  future  plant,  providing  that  the  stock  is  of 
that  nature ;  the  theory  being,  that  a  hardy  sort  imparts 
a  portion  of  its  character  to  the  new  parts.  There  is 
no  doubt  some  advantage  gained  by  the  process,  but 
it  must  not  be  put  down  for  certain  that  a  native  root 
will  so  far  alter  the  constitution  of  the  exotic  as  to 
make  it  prosper  out  of  doors  under  all  circumstances, 
and  in  all  situations  where  the  former  would  thrive,  all 
that  will  or  can  be  gained  is  the  greater  hardihood  of  the 
roots,  which  may  in  some  cases  give  a  more  steady  or  un- 
interrupted flow  to  the  branches,  and  consequently  a  better 
chance  of  resisting  that  bane  to  the  exotic  grape-vine,  the 
excessive  climatic  changes.  It  is  a  method  that  is  of  no 
service  excepting  for  the  above  reasons,  as  young  and 
healthy  plants  will  answer  a  better  purpose  generally. 

As  the  grape-vine  is  subject  to  "  bleed,"  if  cut  early  in. 
the  season,  and  does  not  do  so  after  the  leaves  are  ex 
panded,  it  is  necessary  to  defer  the  operation  until  growth 
has  somewhat  progressed  ;  or,  rather,  it  gives  the  greater 
certainty  of  success.  And  as  the  same  heat  that  excites 
the  stock  into  activit^  will  also  start  the  intended  scicns 


136  THE    GRAPE. 

it  is  requisite  to  keep  the  latter  in  a  cool  but  damp  place 
Where  there  is  an  ice-house,  they  may  be  laid  on  tha 
inside  upon  the  covering,  or,  in  want  of  that  convenience, 
they  should  be  buried  beneath  the  soil,  in  as  cool  a  place 
as  can  be  found.  There  is  no  occasion  to  enter  into  a  scr 
entific  disquisition  on  grafting,  or  to  explain  the  various 
methods  of  doing  it ;  our  object  is  gained  in  this  case,  if 
the  best  be  illustrated.  Cleft  grafting  is,  perhaps,  the  most 
suitable,  while  it  is  also  the  most  simple,  and  is  as  follows : 
When  the  shoots  have  grown  some  eight  or  ten  inches,  cut 
off  the  head  close  to  the  ground,  smooth  over  the  top,  and 
with  a  knife  or  sharp  chisel  cleave  down  the  stem  about 
two  inches,  put  in  a  wedge  to  keep  it  open  for  the  time 
being,  and  cut  the  graft  to  fit,  making  a  notch  where  it 
rests  upon  the  stock,  to  keep  it  firm ;  if  two  be  fixed  in 
the  same  way,  only  each  on  opposite  sides,  there  will  be 
a  double  chance  of  certainty,  when,  if  both  take,  the 
weakest  may  be  cut  out.  Care  must  be  used  in  fixing  the 
graft,  that  the  bark  unites  with  that  of  the  stock,  for  on 
this  nice  point  all  success  depends.  Take  out  the  wedge, 
and  wrap  around  with  soft  woollen  yarn,  or  bast-mat ; 
cover  over  the  top  of  the  stock,  and  to  a  little  below  the 
graft,  with  grafting- wax,  or  moistened  clay ;  afterwards 
heap  over  the  whole  a  portion  of  soil,  so  as  to  form  a  small 
mound,  leaving  the  top  of  the  graft  uncovered.  Fig.  27 
shows  (a)  the  scion,  (b)  the  stock; 
and  (c)  both,  after  the  operation. 

Another  way,  termed  Side-Gretfl 
ing  (fig.  28),  is  to  cut  in  a  slant 
ing  direction,  one-third  thiough  the 
stock,  and  prepare  the  graft  to  fit 
wedge-form  into  it,  care  being  taken 
that  the  hark  of  both  fits  exactly  on  one  side ;  the  tying 


PROPAGATION   AND   RAISING.  137 

&c„  is  the  same  as  in  the  former  case.     This  is  som times 
useful  when  it  is  desirable  to  preserve  the  head,  and  FJ&  28. 
perhaps  the   fruit   on    it,  for  the    season;    but  the     ^ 
newly -introduced   part    does    not    often   get    strong 
during  the  time,  and,  on  the  whole,  there  is  no  ad- 
vantage gained. 

Inarching  is  sometimes  practised  (fig.  29),  which  is 
simply  the  uniting  of  two  branches  that  are  each 
attached  to  neighboring  plants.  Where  it  is  intended 
the  union  is  to  be  made,  the  bark,  and  also  a  thin 
slice  of  the  wood  (in  thickness  according  to  the  size 
of  the  intended  new  sort)  must  be  cut  away  so  that  the 
bark  on  both  sides  will  unite :  the  two  are  then  brought 
together,  tied,  &c.,  as  in   the  former  cases  F,    29 

of  grafting.  There  is  no  advantage  in  this 
plan,  excepting  that  it  may  be  performed 
any  time  during  the  summer.  It  is,  how- 
ever, best  to  do  it  immediately  after  the 
full  expansion  of  the  first  leaves,  which 
better  insures  a  perfect  adhesion.  When 
it  is  thought  that  the  union  is  complete, 
which  ought  to  be  in  five  or  six  weeks, 
the  lower  part  of  the  introduced  branch 
may  be  cut  half  through,  and  left  so 
while  attached  to  its  own  parent.  In  another  week,  or 
ten  days,  it  may  be  entirely  severed,  and  again  left  a  sim- 
ilar length  of  time,  when  the  head  of  the  dishonored  kind 
may  be  cut  away,  and  the  new  one  allowed  to  take  its 
place.  Without  these  latter  precautions,  there  is  great 
danger  of  failure,  as  the  sap  may  not  have  begun  to  flow 
freely  into  the  new  parts.  It  should  also  be  observed, 
that  in  all  the  examples,  when  it  is  seen  that  the  ligatures 
begin  to  grip  the  bark,  from  the  increase  of  growth,  they 


138  THE   GRAPE. 

should  be  loosened  a  trifle,  and  in  a  week  or  two  after 
wards  they  may  be  removed  entirely. 

Seed. — The  preparation  for  seed,  and  the  after  manage- 
ment, may  be  exactly  the  same  as  for  eyes ;  so  there  is 
no  occasion  to  give  any  directions  on  this  head,  furtker 
than  by  g rating  that  it  should  not  be  buried  deeper  than 
half  an  inch.  If  there  is  not  the  convenience  of  a  hot-bed 
or  hot-house,  the  hardy  kinds  may  be  sown  in  the  begin- 
ning of  April,  in  a  cold  frame,  or,  where  there  is  no  glass 
accommodation  at  all,  they  may  be  made,  with  care,  to 
vegetate  in  the  open  ground,  but  not  with  the  same  cer- 
tainty. 

The  Raising  of  New  Kinds. — New  or  different  varieties 
of  any  plant  are  generally  raised  from  seed ;  in  fact,  it 
may  be  said  that  all  permanent  ones  are  so.  It  occasion 
ally,  though  very  rarely,  so  happens,  that  a  plant  will  pro- 
duce a  sport  in  some  particular  branch,  which,  if  budded 
or  grafted  on  to  other  stocks  of  the  same  genus,  will  con- 
tinue to  produce  the  like  from  which  they  were  taken 
The  Tottenham  Park  Muscat  Grape,  and  Fern-leaved 
Beech,  are  examples  of  this  kind ;  but  such  sports  are  not 
always  to  be  depended  on,  as  they  are  apt  to  again  pro- 
duce offshoots  like  the  original  parent ;  consequently  we 
cannot  say  that  they  are  really  permanent,  although  the 
return  backwards  only  occasionally  occurs  ;  still  it  is  pos- 
sible, and  sometimes  is  the  case. 

In  varieties  raised  from  seed  we  very  rarely  find  a  change, 
either  in  the  original  plant,  or  any  buds  or  branches  which 
may  be  taken  from  it  or  from  them  in  after  years.  Not 
withstanding  which,  there  are  some  species  so  prone  to 
sport  from  the  seed,  that  no  two  will  be  alike,  or  exactly 
similar  to  the  parent  from  which  they  were  obtained,  anc 
the  grape-vine  is  among  this  class.  Without  stopping  to 
discuss  the  question  of  what  is  a  species,  it  may  be  stated 


PROPAGATION  AND  RAISING.  189 

that,  when  once  the  apparent  fixedness  of  natuial  distinct- 
ive characters  is  broken,  either  by  accidental  or  purposed 
hybridization,  there  is  no  end  to  the  variety  that  may  be 
produced.  So  prolific  has  this  variation  been  in  the  exotic 
kinds,  that  some  European  catalogues  enumerate  several 
hundred  sorts;  and  although  many  of  these  are  merely 
duplicates  of  others,  there  are  still  left  enough  to  prove 
ihe  case.  In  our  country  the  same  is  being  verified  by 
the  many  new  kinds  which  are  at  present  being  intro- 
duced to  public  notice,  and  as  the  community  become 
more  awake  to  the  improvement  that  may  be  made,  we 
shall  have  a  long  array  of  names,  containing  in  the  aggre- 
gate all  sorts,  from  fine  and  good,  down  to  middling  and 
bad ;  and,  in  connection  Avith  this,  we  may  look  forward  to 
a  far  superior  quality  to  any  we  now  possess ;  for  there  is 
nothing  to  prevent  a  progressive  movement,  or  ultimately 
attaining  to  the  same  perfection  which  the  exotics  at 
present  possess,  with  the  additional  property  of  a  hardy 
constitution,  that  will  prosper  in  the  open  air,  without  the 
great  drawback  of  mildew,  to  which  the  foreign  kinds  are 
so  subject,  and  which  consequently  renders  them  worth- 
less for  out-door  culture,  with  very  few  exceptions.  So 
important  is  this  matter  as  a  national  profit,  that  the  sub- 
ject cannot  be  forwarded  or  discussed  too  much.  Our 
own  vineyards  are  now  supplying  a  great  part  of  the  home 
demand ;  and  if  the  present  grape-blight  of  Europe  con- 
tinues much  longer,  the  making  of  wine,  and  the  cultiva- 
tion of  the  grape,  will  be  so  much  curtailed  there,  that  it 
is  not  unlikely  we  may  become  a  large  exporting  nation 
in  this  commodity  Taking  this  view  of  the  subject,  all 
those  who  may  be  attempting  to  improve  this  valuable 
boon  may  be  considered  as  public  benefactors,  and  we  in 
troduce  what  experience  we  possess  for  ihe  guidance  of 
those  who  have  not  investigated  the  subject. 


l40  THE   GRAPE. 

Physiological  theory  teaches,  and  practical  experience 
proves  to  us,  that  the  progeny  of  a  plant,  the  flowers  of 
which  have  been  fertilized  by  another,  is  more  likely  to 
retain  the  constitution  and  habit  of  the  maternal  side, 
while  any  peculiarities  as  to  flower  and  fruits  of  the  father 
are  introduced  into  the  same  body  :  consequently,  the 
native  kind  should  be  fertilized  by  the  pollen  of  the  exotic, 
when  a  hardy  vine  would  most  probably  be  the  product, 
with  an  approach  to  the  fruit  of  the  foreign  sort.  So  de- 
cided is  this  fact,  that  the  operator  may  predict  tolerably 
closely  what  the  result  will  be  ;  and  it  is  as  sure  as  a 
demonstrated  fact,  that  we  can  produce,  by  care  and  per- 
severance, by  this  course,  a  tribe  of  grapes  suitable  for 
every  purpose  of  the  vigneron,  and  also  satisfactory  to  the 
palate  of  the  most  fastidious  epicure. 

For  producing  a  fine  table  grape,  perhaps  no  better 
varieties  can  be  chosen  than  Isabella,  or  Concord,  fertilized 
with  Black  Hamburgh,  for  a  black ;  and  Diana,  crossed 
with  Ohasselas  Fontainebleau,  for  a  light-colored  class. 
For  this  purpose,  it  is  not  advisable  to  make  use  of  the 
Frontignans,  or  Muscats,  for  the  natives  have  already  too 
much  of  the  musky  flavor,  and  by  introducing  the  sweet- 
ness of  the  Hamburgh  and  Chasselas,  we  shall  be  most 
likely  to  produce  a  Muscat  flavor,  with  the  size  or  beauty 
of  berry,  and  form  of  bunch  of  the  two  paternal  kinds. 
Beside  the  production  of  a  fine  class  of  grapes  for  dessert, 
this  is  likely  to  lead  to  a  quality  most  suitable  for  the 
sweeter  and  mild-tasted  wines ;  but  for  those  of  rougher 
and  fuller  flavor,  the  probability  is  that  the  Frontignana 
would  answer  the  purpose  better.  This  is,  however,  only 
conjecture,  and  must  be  left  to  futurity  for  proof.  To 
insure  success,  some  care  arid  attention  is  necessary  j  more 
will  be  accomplished  with  these,  from  a  dozen  seedlings, 
ttan  by  a  thousand  without  it.    Tho  plants  to  be  operated 


PROPAGATION  AND  RAiSlNG.  14) 

upon  should  be  in  robust  health,  neither  having  at  any 
time  shown  symptoms  of  mildew,  and  the  flowers  of  both 
selected  from  fine  and  well-formed  bunches.     The  opera- 
tion of  fertilizing  is  also  a  delicate  one,  and  there  is  some 
difficulty  in  getting  the  two  sorts  to  bloom  at  the  same 
time  -  for  the  exotic  will,  almost  without  exception,  have 
to  be  under  glass;  and  the  native,  on  account  of  producing 
hardiness,  should  be  planted  outside.     A  temporary  glasi 
frame  to  forward  the  latter  would  be  of  service,  and  the 
former  might  be  retarded  by  excluding  the  light  until  th* 
buds  burst,  and  keeping  the  head  down  in  a  cold  house 
The  most  convenient  and  certain  way  is  to  treat  one  01 
more  plants  of  the  native  kinds  as  advised  for  pot  culture, 
and,  when  the  plants  are  strong  enough,  to  introduce  them 
into  a  Cold  Grapery  early  in  the  season,  so  as  to  have 
them  in  blossom  as  near  as  possible  to  the  time  of  the 
others  which  are  in  the  same  apartment ;  and  if  attention 
be  paid  to  the  applying  of  liquid  manure,  there  will  nol 
need   be   any    doubt  of  the   fruit   lacking   nourishment. 
When  the  hardy  sort  begins  to  open  its  flowers,  the  sta- 
mens should  be  immediately  cut  out,  and  the  stigma  fer- 
tilized by  the  pollen  from  the  anthers  of  the  exotic;  indeed 
it  is  necessary,  if  the  greatest  surety  is  intended,  that  the 
corolla  (which  fits  like  a  little  cap  over  the  parts,  and  rolls 
up  from  the  bottom,  instead  of,  as  in  most  flowers,  expand- 
ing  at  the  top)   should  be  carefully  removed  before  its 
natural  liberation,  for  the  anthers  generally  burst  just  pre- 
vious to  being  exposed ;  and  as  they  encircle  the  stigma, 
and  are  immediately  over  it,  impregnation  may  have  then 
taken  place,  which  will  most  likely  frustrate  all  hopes  ;foi 
any  hermaphrodite  plant,  providing  all  the  sexual  organ* 
are  perfect,  will  be  more  readily  fertilized  by  its  own  than 
another's  pollen.    While  the  mother  plant  is  in  bloom,  care 
mart  be  taken  to  keep  off  insects.    This  may  be  done,  by 


142'  THE  GRAPE. 

tying  a  fine  net-work  bag  over  the  bunch,  and,  if  there  be 
a  suitable  place  on  the  premises  for  its  healthy  action,  the 
vine  ought  to  be  removed  away  from  any  other  plant  01 
the  same  family  which  may  be  in  bloom  at  the  same  time 
for  the  pollen  is  a  very  subtle  substance,  and  a  proximity 
to  others  might  destroy  all  success. 

Independent  of  this  cross-breeding  with  the  exotics,  which 
may,  in  the  fruit,  sooner  bring  about  the  desired  result,  we 
may  arrive  at  the  same  point  of  excellence  with  our  own 
natives  by  a  little  patience  and  perseverance,  without  any 
danger  of  injuring  the  constitutional  habits  of  the  progeny ; 
consequently  this  course  is  the  best  to  pursue,  and  will  ultt 
mately  give  the  most  desired  results. 


CHAPTER   XIII 

DISEASES. 

Mildew. — Nearly  all  attempts  to  cultivate  the  exotic 
grape-vine  in  the  open  air,  in  the  United  States,  have 
ended  in  total  failure  and  disappointment.  In  a  few  soli- 
tary instances,  and  under  peculiar  circumstances,  where 
the  excessive  changes  have  heen  counteracted  by  shelter 
or  otherwise,  a  partial  success  has  been  obtained,  but  the 
climate  of  the  whole  eastern  and  middle  parts  of  the  Union, 
is  too  variable  for  its  easily  checked,  though  vigorous 
constitution,  and  by  which  the  vital  energy  is  impaired  at 
the  time  of  greatest  activity — when  mildew  in  its  various 
forms  completes  the  works  of  destruction.  This  mildew 
is  the  growth  of  fungoid  vegetation,  the  seeds  of  which 
are  so  small  in  many  kinds  as  to  be  invisible  to  the  naked 
eye.  There  are  two  kinds  which  are  most  troublesome  to 
the  grape-vine — one,  which  we  presume  to  be  the  Oidium 
Tuckeri,  that  is  at  present  devastating  the  vineyards  of 
Europe;  and  the  other  a  Botrytis.  or  some  analogous 
genus.  The  first  indication  of  the  former  is  shown  by 
the  leaves  having  brown  spots  upon  them,  and  which 
permeate  quite  through  the  tissue.  Afterwards,  are  seen 
small  white  patches  of  the  soft  and  delicate  fungus  at- 
tached to  the  under  side  of  the  leaf,  and  which,  if  not 
speedily  destroyed,  will  soon  extend  to  the  fruit  stalks, 
penetrate  to  the  berries  by  the  rhizoma  or  spawn,  and 
make  them  in  appearance  like  a  diseased  potato  in  the 
first  stage  of  infection,  stopping  their  growth,  and  render 

(143) 


144  THE   GRAPE. 

ing  them  useless ;  the  leaves  also  will  fall  off  after  a  short 

time,  and  the  whole  plant  become  seriously  injured 
These  white  patches  are  the  fructification  of  the  parasite; 
when  viewed  under  the  microscope,  there  is  exhibited  a 
multitudinous  congregation  of  little  mushroom-looking  sub- 
stances, and  if  suddenly  jerked,  the  tiny  sporules  may  be 
seen  detached,  and  floating  in  the  atmosphere,  so  minute 
and  subtle,  and  in  such  countless  numbers,  that  it  is  not 
unreasonable  to  suppose  (beside  the  immediate  develop- 
ment and  rapid  vegetation  of  thousands  of  them  under 
favorable  influences)  many  are  absorbed  by  the  stomata  or 
breathing  pores  on  the  under  surface  of  the  leaves,  and 
conveyed  into  the  interior,  simply  by  the  descending 
movement  of  the  elaborated  sap,  which  is  afterwards  con- 
verted into  woody-fibre,  and  in  its  turn  becomes  the 
organized  medium  by  which  the  ascending  sap,  in  the  fol- 
lowing spring,  flows  with  greater  velocity  to  the  unfolding 
leaves.  The  secreted  sporules  may  then  be  re-conducted 
nvards,  and  conveyed  onwards  to  the  foilage,  and  there 
remain  dormant,  until  the  favorable  circumstances  occur 
for  their  germination,  when  they  spring  into  renewed  life, 
and  speedily  produce  another  crop  of  seeds  for  a  future 
generation.  This  kind  of  mildew  seldom  does  any  mis- 
chief after  the  growth  approaches  towards  ripeness,  or  the 
fruit  is  in  the  last  swell,  and  as  it  generally  begins  to 
appear  about  the  early  part  of  July,  during  damp  and 
close  weather,  those  plants  which  have  been  more  or  less 
forwarded  by  artificial  heat  are  almost  free  from  its  attacks  \ 
but  in  the  Cold  Grapery  or  Retarding  House  we  should  be 
on  our  guard,  and  when  storms  or  damp  weather  occurs, 
*trew  sulphur  on  the  floor  of  the  house,  in  the  proportion 
of  on  a  pound  to  each  fifteen  or  twenty  square- yards,  and 
withhold  water  for  the  time  being,  keeping  the  house  quite 
close,  if  cloudy,  and  allowing  the  temperature  to  rise  some 


DISEASES.  145 

what  higher  for  two  or  three  days.  This  will  cause  the 
sulphur  to  throw  off  fumes,  which  are  readily  perceptible 
to  the  smell,  and  will  check  the  further  progress  of  the 
past  if  present,  or  prevent  its  appearance  if  not  so.  We 
bare  used  all  the  supposed  remedies  that  we  could  collect 
a  knowledge  of,  by  way  of  experiment,  without  being 
aide  to  discover  anything  more  than  temporary  relief 
while  the  fumes  of  sulphur,  as  above  recommended,  have 
never  failed  to  immediately  check,  and  if  water  be  with- 
held during  the  continuance,  to  finally  overcome  it.  There 
need  be  no  fear  of  sulphur  doing  liarm  to  the  foliage;  so 
long  as  ignition  dees  net  take  pice,  it  may  be  used  with 
confidence.  Herein  lies  the  secret.  If  allowed  to  burn, 
chemical  action  goes  on,  and  sulphurous  acid  is  produced, 
which  in  its  then  gaseous  form  will  speedily  destroy  all 
foliage  with  which  it  comes  in  contact. 

The  other  kind  {Bo'rytis  1)  appears  like  a  fine  and 
delicate  hoary  mouldiness,  and  vegetates  along  the  young 
wood  and  tender  growth  of  the  stem,  the  leaf  stalks,  over 
the  surface  of  the  berries,  and  upper  side  of  the  leaves ; 
enveloping  and  covering  the  parts  so  as  to  prevent  the 
further  progress  of  the  fruit,  cause  the  leaves  to  fall,  and 
the  branches  to  cease  growing.  It  is  not,  as  in  the 
previous  example,  confined  to  late  crops,  but  will  attack 
those  started  early  also,  and  is  often  most  prevalent  when 
too  dry  and  cold  a  temperature  has  been  allowed,  more 
particularly  if  a  strong  moist  heat  has  been  previously 
kept  up ;  cold  drafts  will  increase  the  tendency — hence 
great  caution  is  necessary  in  ventilating,  or  the  producing 
of  that  atmospheric  peculiarity  which  takes  place  when 
the  moisture  that  is  in  solution  in  the  atmosphere  becomes 
condensed  by  a  sudden  transition  to  a  lower  temperature. 
Observation  will  show  that  those  forms  of  fungus  which  at- 
tack peas,  gooseberries,  &c. — and  the  kind  now  spoken  of  it 
7 


U6  THE   GRAPE. 

similiar  in  structure,  if  not  positively  of  the  same  gen  .is — 
are  most  prevalent  when  a  slow  steady  under  current  of 
dry  air  is  passing  in  hot  weather,  which,  by  exciting  to 
an  extraordinary .  degree  of  evaporation,  leaves  a  damp 
clamminess  upon  the  surface  of  all  plants  by  drawing  out  a 
portion  of  their  collected  juices,  which  then  becomes  food 
for  the  sporules  to  vegetate  upon.  This  may  be  considered 
somewhat  similar  to  the  bottom  draft  in  a  hot-house— -a 
very  different  thing,  by  the  way,  to  a  healthy  and  free 
ventilation  overhead,  where  the  air  is  made  to  circulate 
evenly  over  the  whole  cubic  bulk,  without  that  continual 
stream  from  small  apertures  Lelow.  In  our  present  case, 
moisture  combined  with  heat  will  counteract  the  fungus, 
and  it  may  be  effectually  got  rid  of  by  syringing  with 
water,  in  which  a  portion  of  sulphur  is  mixed ;  one  pound 
of  the  latter  will  be  enough  for  ten  or  fifteen  gallons  of  the 
former.  If  the  fruit  be  approaching  to  maturity,  this  kind 
of  application  will  disfigure  it,  and  the  same  purpose  may 
be  as  effectually  gained  by  dusting  a  small  quantity  on 
the  heating  apparatus  where  it  will  not  ignite ;  or  if  a  cold 
house,  by  strewing  it  over  the  floor  in  the  same  quantity 
as  before  advised. 

The  peculiar  circumstances  under  which  parasitical 
fungoids  luxuriate,  are  wonderfully  dependent  on  the  state 
of  the  atmosphere.  This  is  demonstrated,  not  only  by  the 
different  sorts  of  grape  mildew,  but  in  all  others. 

All  plants  indeed  are  not  alike  susceptible  to  these 
influences.  The  constitution  of  various  plants  may  be  able 
to  withstand  the  effects  of  atmospheric  changes  without 
revulsion  or  excessive  flow  of  the  sap,  and  therefore  they 
will  not  afford  those  precise  requirements  which  favor  the 
germination  of  the  furgi.  But  as  a  general  rule  like  causes 
produce  like  effects. 

It  follows,  then,  if  the  above  observations  are  correct, 


DISEASES.  147 

that  tlie  main  preventive  of  mildew  is  to  keep  the  plants 
in  a  steady  and  healthy  action,  not  only  by  supplying  a 
due  proportion  of  food  moisture  and  heat  according  to  their 
constitutional  requirements,  but  by  preventing  sudden 
changes  in  the  atmosphere  with  which  they  are  sur- 
rounded, and  particularly  avoiding  cold  drafts  in  the  lower 
parts  of  the  house.  Heat  accelerates  the  circulation,  and 
if  the  whole  bulk  of  the  air  is  uniformly  heated,  the  circu- 
lation will  be  equal  in  its  action  and  distribution  in  every 
part  of  the  plant. 

In  our  practice,  bottom  air  is  not  admitted  until  the  fruit 
begins  to  change  color.  Although  the  above  remarks  may 
not  harmonize  with  the  opinions  of  others,  an  extensive 
experience  has  convinced  us  of  their  correctness. 

We  have  then  the  whole  matter  in  a  "  nutshell.'7 
During  the  time  when  the  vines  are  growing  freely,  keep 
up  a  strong  steady  heat,  avoid  damp  or  cold  drafts,  and 
south  and  east  winds  during  cloudy  weather  or  storms ; 
keep  the  house  closed  in  such  cases. 

Be  careful  that  the  house  is  not  suddenly  heated  up 
when  the  sun  breaks  out,  afterward  regulate  the  moisture 
according  to  the  external  atmosphere.  Close  early  in  the 
evening,  and  open  early  in  the  morning.  Observe  and 
remember  that  to  counteract  the  eflects  of  sudden  changes 
in  the  atmosphere  is  the  great  desideratum.  The  best  of 
us  may  sometimes  find  our  utmost  skill  tested,  but  a  per- 
severance in*  the  course  here  marked  out  with  clcse 
attention  will  overcome  all  difficulties,  and  we  will  be 
amply  repaid  for  all  our  trouble. 

Many  think  that  when  mildew  makes  its  appearance 
sulphur  is  the  only  antidote,  without  anything  further  than 
merely  dusting  the  affected  parts,  or  strewing  a  portion 
over  the  floor.  From  our  previous  remarks  it  will  be  seen, 
that  this  will  sometimes  be  sufficient,  but  it  is  not  merely 


U8  THE    GRAPE. 

the  immediate  contact,  in  all  cases,  that  produces  the 
remedial  effect.  The  further  spread  of  the  Botrytisl 
may  be  arrested  on  particular  spots  where  the  sulphur  is 
applied,  hut  it  will  not  suffice  for  the  Oidium,  for  we  have 
seen  it  push  through  a  thick  coating  after  the  application 
had  been  repeated  for  several  days  together,  and  we  would 
more  forcibly  repeat  that  the  fumes  emanating  from  sul- 
phur exposed  to  a  high  temperature,  are  the  only  radical 
cure  that  we  have  yet  discovered. 

There  are  several  other  sorts  of  fungi  which  are  seen  at 
times  in  the  grapery,  but  which  are  not  any  further  de- 
structive than  by  extending  a  mouldiness  to  the  ripe  fruit, 
or  decaying  leaves  or  branches,  which  may  be  prevented 
by  circulating  a  free  current  of  air  through  the  house,  or 
if  that  be  not  practicable,  as  sometimes  happens  with  late 
crops  or  the  Retarding  House,  by  lighting  a  slow  fire,  and 
lifting  the  top  ventilators.  This  will  dry  up  the  moisture, 
and  be  beneficial  to  the  vines,  by  assisting  them  to  ripen 
better.  These  last  mentioned  fungi  may  be  considered  as 
epiphytical,  for  they  feed  upon  a  tendency  to  decay  in  the 
body  upon  which  they  vegetate ;  while  the  first  and  dan- 
gerous kinds  are  strictly  parasites,  which  germinate  and 
progress  upon  the  living  substance,  and  destroy  the  or 
ganization  of  all  parts  in  their  course. 

Shrivel  and  Shank. — These  two  terms  may  be  considered 
as  one  disease,  only  in  a  more  modified  or  virulent  form. 
The  difference  being,  that  when  a  bunch  of  grapes  is  said 
to  shank,  the  whole  or  a  part  of  it  dies  off;  while  in  shrivel, 
the  footstalks  of  the  berries,  individually,  are  only  at- 
tacked. The  first  stage  is  seen  as  brown  spots  on  on« 
Bide  of  the  stem  of  the  bunch,  or  the  footstalk  of  the  berry, 
and  which,  if  not  cut  away,  soon  encircles  the  whole,  thb 
consequence  being  a  certain  stop  to  the  circulation,  and 
worthlessness  to  all  parts  below.     From  the  earliest  tima, 


DISEASES.  149 

there  has  not  been  anything  in  grape  culture  that  '^as  ex- 
tited  more  discussion  than  this  disease,  and  the  most 
eminent  and  best  cultivators  have  come  to  diametrically 
opposite  conclusions,  according  as  it  has  shown  itself  to 
their  individual  observation.  In  some  houses  this  is  thu 
greatest  bugbear  that  the  grape  grower  has  to  encounter ; 
for  after  the  anxiety  of  the  season  appears  to  be  past,  and 
he  is  looking  with  pleasing  satisfaction  on  his  success,  his 
hopes  are  suddenly  blighted  by  the  instantaneous  appear- 
ance of  this  pest.  His  crop  is  just  arriving  at  maturity, 
the  berries  are  fast  coloring,  well  swelled  up,  and  to  all 
appearance  safe,  when  upon  close  examination,  they  are 
found  to  have  become  flaccid,  the  footstalks  of  the  berries 
or  a  part  of  the  stems  of  the  bunches  are  turned  brown 
and  withered,  in  consequence  of  which  the  fruit  receives 
no  more  nourishment,  the  carbonizing  action  is  arrested, 
and  the  affected  berries  remain  intensely  sour.  One  find 
ing  that  his  borders  are  not  well  drained,  and  the  roots 
partly  rotted,  and  seeing  no  other  cause,  comes,  and  with 
reason,  to  the  conclusion  that  it  is  the  effect  of  this,  and 
in  his  honest  belief  heralds  his  opinion  to  the  world ;  an 
other  takes  an  opposite  inference,  for  his  borders  are  too 
dry  ;  a  third  discovers  that  his  house  is  badly  constructed 
as  regards  the  means  of  ventilation,  or  that  it  is  situated 
too  low,  producing  a  stagnant,  or  unwholesome  damp  at- 
mosphere ;  a  fourth  states  as  positively  that  the  keeping 
of  the  house  closed  too  late  in  the  morning,  and  the  sun's 
rays  striking  directly  upon  the  wet  or  damp  footstalks 
produces  the  disease  ;  a  fifth,  that  it  arises  from  extremes 
of  heat  between  the  roots  and  the  tops ;  a  sixth,  that  sud- 
den changes  of  temperature  in  the  house  are  the  cause,  and 
in  this  way  we  might  go  on  enumerating  opinions  respect- 
ing the  nuisance.  It  is  a  common  saying  that,  "  when 
doctors  disagree,  who  is  to  decide ;"  a  very  sensible  ques* 


150  THE   GRAPE. 

tion.  certainly,  in  this  case.  After  careful  study — now  foi 
the  last  twenty-five  years — we  are  led  to  believe,  that 
anything  which  arrests,  or  interferes  with  the  healthful 
action  of  the  vine  at  this  particular  stage  will  be  likely  to 
pioduce  this  disease.  If  we  argue  from  the  analogy 
between  the  animal  and  vegetable  kingdoms,  we  know 
that  as  immediately  before  parturition  there  is  a  very  great 
stress  upon  the  constitution,  requiring  all  the  strength 
with  which  the  animal  is  endowed  to  carry  through 
nature's  action — so  with  plants.  As  proof  of  this,  when 
the  fruit  is  taking  its  last  swell,  the  size  in  many  kinds 
increases  one-third  in  a  very  short  time,  and  in  some 
instances  with  such  rapidity  that  the  tender  skin  is  not 
strong  enough  to  withstand  the  inward  pressure,  but 
bursts  open.  It  is  most  likely  that  the  change  by  chemical 
expansion  has  something  to  do  with  this,  and  if  the  plant 
is  not  enabled  to  perform  all  its  functions  uninterruptedly, 
the  stalks  of  the  fruit,  which  are  the  conductors  of  the  re- 
quired fluids,  do  not  receive  a  full  supply  of  the  needful 
elements,  but  perish  from  the  extraordinary  demand  that  is 
made  upon  them  for  the  time  being,  for  we  find  them  only 
affected  in  this  particular  manner  at  the  period  mentioned. 
If  this  .argument  be  correct,  it  will  be  well,  when  there  is 
a  disposition  toward  the  disease,  for  all  grape-growers  to 
ascertain  where  the  deficiency  is  most  likely  to  be,  and 
remedy  it  accordingly,  without  any  reference  to  dogmati- 
cal opinions. 

In  the  course  of  this  work,  an  endeavor  has  been  made 
to  explain  all  the  necessary  appliances  and  conveniences 
kequired  for  successful  grape  culture,  and  as  in  our  own 
practice  we  are  very  little  troubled  in  this  respect,  tha 
advice  is  given  with  some  confidencs,  and  a  oelief  that  if 
fully  carried  out  the  same  results  will  accompany  the 
operatic  us  of  others     When  tbe  injury  is  done,  the  only 


DISEASES.  l51 

alternative  that  remains  is  to  cut  away  the  parts  injured, 
and  remove  them  immediately  from  the  house,  and  insure 
the  prevention  of  any  contamination  to  those  which  are 
healthy. 

Dry  Rot  in  the  Roots.  The  upper  indications  of  this 
lisease  are  flaccidity,  and  deficiency  of  solidity,  accom- 
panied by  a  sickly  yellowish  color  of  the  foliage,  weak 
growth  of  the  branches  and  paucity  of  fruit ;  a  prolonged 
increase  of  the  malady  will  at  length  cause  the  vine  to  die, 
and  that  most  commonly  about  the  time  when  the  berries 
are  half  grown.  All  this  arises  from  the  want  of  nourish- 
ment from  the  roots,  which,  if  examined,  will  be  found  to 
be  rotted,  and  often  covered  by  a  mouldiness  or  fungus. 
There  is  no  doubt  but  the  primitive  cause  of  this  affection 
is  a  check  to  constitutional  vigor ;  and  extremely  close 
summer  pruning  has  much  to  do  with  it,  as  it  prevents 
the  plant  from  equalizing  its  expansive  and  centralizing 
powers,  thereby  keeping  up  a  perpetual  excitement  through 
the  vessels,  which  at  last  brings  on  an  enfeebled  condition 
When  a  vine  becomes  affected  in  this  way  the  best  plan 
is  to  take  it  out,  renew  the  soil  in  the  immediate  vicinity, 
and  afterwards  plant  another  in  the  same  place,  for  it  is 
seldom  that  the  diseased  one  does  any  more  good. 

The  roots  sometimes  become  rotted  from  other  causes, 
such  as  being  too  deep  under  the  surface,  or  when  the 
borders  are  very  retentive  of  moisture,  or  composed  of 
over-much  undecomposed  materials,  &c.  For  this  there 
is  a  remedy  if  taken  in  time,  and  the  best  thing  to  be  done 
is  to  thoroughly  drain,  if  that  only  is  the  mischief,  but  if 
it  be  from  the  other  sources  mentioned,  the  roots  will  re 
quire  to  be  lifted,  and  the  operation  needs  great  care ;  so 
soon  as  the  leaves  fall,  proceed  to  uncover  them;  trace 
each  one,  and  as  they  are  respectively  liberated  lay  *hcm 
in  a  straight  length  -antil  all  are  secured,  after  which  they 


152  THE  GRAPE 

ought  to  be  wrapped  in  a  damp  mat  or  cloth,  the  bordei 
thoroughly  trenched  over,  and  a  thin  layer  of  good  turfy 
loam  put  on  the  top,  when  the  roots  may  be  again  spread 
over  the  surface ;  all  the  decayed  parts  cut  away  with  a 
sharp  knife,  and  covered  by  four  or  five  inches  of  the 
same  kind  of  earth  that  was  put  under  them.  Care  must 
be  taken  however  before  winter  sets  in,  that  a  good  layer 
of  tree  leaves,  or  weak  littery  dung  be  spread  over,  to  keep 
out  the  frost.  There  have  been  many  examples,  when 
this  has  been  skilfully  attended  to,  where  a  stock  of  vines 
have  been  entirely  rejuvenated,  that  were  previously 
worthless  and  thought  to  be  worn  out,  but  which  have 
afterwards  borne  good  crops  of  fine  fruit  for  many  years 
It  is  necessary  to  give  a  partial  shade  in  the  early  part  of 
the  following  summer,  or  until  the  leaves  get  pretty  well 
expanded,  and  it  is  better  not  to  lei  them  carry  much,  if 
any,  fruit  during  the  first  year  after  the  operation.  Cloudy 
or  damp  weather  is  the  best  time  for  removing,  and 
the  roots  should  be  as  little  time  as  possible  out  of  the 
ground. 

Rot  in  the  Fruit. — This  has  of  late  years  caused  con- 
siderable loss  in  the  cultivation  of  vineyards.  It  generally 
shows  itself  at  the  time  when  the  fruit  begins  to  "  stone," 
after  continued  wet  weather,  followed  by  bright  sunshine, 
when  the  berries  become  discolored  and  fall  off.  All  the 
symptoms  of  this  disease  go  to  prove  that  it  is  the  result 
of  the  plants  imbibing  too  much  moisture  at  the  time  when 
nature  could  better  do  with  a  reduction  of  it,  for  the  grape 
vine  at  this  stage  of  growth  would  be  considerably  bene- 
fited if  no  rain  were  to  fall  during  the  after  part  of  the 
season.  Seeing  this  to  be  the  case,  we  ought,  so  far  aa 
circumstances  will  allow,  to  try  and  remedy  the  evil  by 
the  choosing  of  a  situation  that  is  open  and  airy,  but  not 
exposed  to  the  violence  of  storms— a  free  porous  subsoil, 


DISEASES.  158 

or  efficient  drainage  ;  thorough  and  deep  tienching  or  sub- 
soil plowing,  and  not  over-close  planting,  so  that  the  air 
may  pass  freely  between  and  among  the  plants,  in  order 
the  better  to  drive  ofl'  all  superabundant  atmospheric 
moisture,  and  also  enable  the  plants  to  exhale  the  over- 
plus fluids  with  which,  at  such  times,  they  are  surcharged 
For  the  same  reason,  where  the  vines  are  trained  ovei 
Arbors,  or  on  trellises,  the  branches  ought  not  to  be  too 
close,  or  the  summer  growth  to  become  crowded.  This 
object  is  not  to  be  gained,  however,  by  plucking  off  the 
leaves  as  some  persons  very  ignorantly  do,  but  by  atten- 
tive disbudding  of  all  those  shoots  that  will  not  be  actually 
wanted,  in  the  early  part  of  the  season,  or  so  soon  as  it 
can  be  plainly  seen  which  branches  will  produce  the  finest 
fruit,  and  by  laying  them  in,  at  pruning  time,  sufficiently 
distant — eighteen  inches  is  near  enough.  In  the  grapery 
we  are  not  much  troubled  by  this  nuisance,  except  in 
damp,  ill-ventilated,  or  badly-glazed  houses,  which  is  an- 
other proof  that  the  cause  is  an  excess  of  moisture,  for  it 
is  a  common  practice,  when  the  fruit  begins  to  color,  to 
use  very  little  or  no  water  in  any  form,  consequently  at 
the  critical  period  the  grapes  are  in  a  drier  atmosphere 
and  the  absorbing  foliage  is  prevented  from  inhaling  any 
more  moisture  than  is  necessary  to  suppport  health. 
Where  the  vines  are  planted  and  the  fruit  is  found  to  be 
subject  to  the  affection,  it  will  be  well  to  drain  deeply 
between  the  rows  in  the  fall,  and  when  the  ground  is 
forked  over  to  apply  a  good  dressing  of  fresh  powdered 
lime  ;  indeed  a  very  confident  opinion  will  not  be  much 
hazarded  by  stating,  that  a  well  drained  calcareous  soil,  in 
an  airy  but  not  exposed  situation,  would  be  sure  to  give 
grapes  nearly,  if  not  quite  free  from  rot. 

Spot. — The  spot,  although  by  some  persons  confounded 
with  the  preceding  disease,  is  certainly  a  different  thing 

V 


1  A  THE  GRAPE. 

it  is  L»ot  so  injurious,  as  the  berries  only  become  marked 
by  a  black  spot  on  the  surface,  (but  which  penetrates 
through  the  skin),  and  remains  on  the  vine  to  ripen;  the 
quality,  however,  is  considerably  deteriorated,  for  it  con* 
times  to  be  a  '*  spot"  to  the  last,  and  gives  a  bitter  taste 
^o  the  flavor,  not  only  tor  table  use,  but  also  to  the  wine 
which  may  be  made  from  the  affected  fruit.  After  some 
y  ears  of  careful  watching  for  the  cause  of  this,  we  are  led 
to  the  conclusion  that  it  is  produced  by  the  direct  striking 
of  the  heat  of  a  midsummer  sun  immediately  upon  the 
oerries,  after  heavy  rain,  the  individual  drops  of  which 
rail  with  great  force,  and  knock  clear  off  a  spot  of  the 
'*  bloom"  or  farina  that  the  berries  are  covered  with,  aim 
rfrhich,  no  doubt,  is  a  protection  against  its  intensity, 
thereby  leaving  the  tender  cuticle  exposed,  and  subject  to 
be  more  readily  acted  upon,  just  the  same  as  the  concen- 
trated focus  of  a  burning  glass,  on  a  previously  covered 
and  delicate  skin  would  be,  if  it  were  to  be  acted  upon  in 
the  same  way.  With  this  paralizing  action  upon  the  par- 
ticular parts,  they  are  more  easily  attacked  by  a  fungus, 
which,  when  once  it  becomes  established,  will  progress  so 
long  as  the  same  weather  continues,  and  hence  is  ex 
plained  how  the  disease  increases  with  a  similarity  of  cir- 
cumstances, and  likewise  the  cause  of  its  cessation. 

There  are  several  trifling  matters  connected  with  the 
subject,  which  may  not  be  considered  as  disease,  that  may 
be  traced  to  some  of  the  causes  previously  mentioned, 
but  which  if  carefully  observed  may  be  remedied  in  time, 
without  permanent  injury;  and  in  connection  with  this  it 
may  be  mentioned,  that  although  it  has  been  recommended 
to  keep  up  a  moist  atmosphere  with  repeated  syringing,  it 
is  by  no  means  to  be  inferred  that  it  is  intended  to  water 
overhead  in  the  middle  of  the  day,  or  yet  in  the  morning 
unless  very  early.    In  such  a  climate  of  "  grey  sunlight" 


•  DISEASES.  155 

t*\  rhat  of  England,  there  will  not  be  much  harm  done  bj 
such  a  practice ;  but  with  our  "  bright  and  sunny  skies," 
the  same  practice  will  lead  to  scald  and  to  brown  spots  on 
the  tender  bark  and  under  side  of  the  young  leaves, 
thereby  interrupting,  to  a  certain  extent,  the  luxuriant 
and  free  development,  and  sometimes  will  entirely  check 
the  elongation  of  the  branches,  which  causes  a  revulsion 
of  the  gap,  and,  of  course,  injury  to  the  whole  body. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

INSECTS,  AND   HOW   TO  DESTROY  THEM 

Where  the  treatment  described  in  the  foregoing  pages 
has  been  adhered  to,  there  will  be  little  trouble  with  in- 
sects in  the  late  grapery,  but  in  early  forced  houses,  with 
the  most  careful  watchfulness,  they  sometimes  make  their 
appearance  during  the  middle  and  after  part  of  summer ; 
also  in  the  vineyard  and  all  out-door  culture  of  the  grape, 
either  one  kind  or  other  will,  at  times,  commit  great  rav 
ages,  or  do  much  mischief  if  they  be  not  speedily  de 
stroyed  ;  and  "  prevention  is  better  than  cure,"  was  never 
more  apropos  than  in  this  case,  for  if  a  plant  of  any  kind 
is  suffered  to  remain  infested  with  these  pests,  you  may 
bid  good-bye  to  health  or  productiveness.  Therefore  be 
on  the  look  out,  and  when  the  enemy  shows  his  advance 
guard,  rest  assured  that  if  not  speedily  routed,  a  numer- 
ous army  will  follow.  Attack  his  outposts,  carry  war 
into  his  centre,  destroy  his  flank  and  rear,  and  completely 
annihilate  him,  or  you  will  find  that  he  will  continue  to 
give  annoyance.  Give  him  no  quarter,  for  he  keeps  no 
truce,  and  so  long  as  he  has  one  helpmate  of  the  opposite 
sex,  he  will  persevere  in  bringing  up  his  myriads  of  off 
spring,  which  are  soon  ready  for  active  operation  and 
renewed  destruction. 

The  insects  which  attack  our  present  subject,  are  red 
spider  (acarus,)  several  species  of  coccus,  as  brown  tur- 
tle, and  white  scaly  bug,  mealy  bug,  brown  and  white 
(1M> 


INSECTS.  157 

tortoise  -shell  scale,  black  and  green  fly,  (aphis,)  thrips, 
fretters  (cycadce,)  three  or  four  kinds  of  beetles,  as  the 
rose  bug,  cockchafer,  &c,  and  occasionally  the  caterpil- 
lars of  some  moths. 

The  red  spider  is  a  very  small,  dark  red  insect,  almobt 
invisible  to  the  naked  eye,  which  locates  on  the  under 
6ide  of  the  leaves ;  it  delights  in  a  dry,  hot  atmosphere, 
and  if  left  long  unmolested,  will  spread  over  the  whole 
house,  spinning  a  delicate  network,  among  which  it 
travels  with  the  greatest  facility,  feeding  upon,  poisoning, 
and  disfiguring  the  plant.  It  may  be  destroyed  by  syring- 
ing and  a  damp  air,  and  can  be  completely  eradicated 
by  the  use  of  sulphur,  used  as  advised  for  mildew.  Indeed 
it  is  doubtful  if  it  will  exist  at  all  if  sulphur  be  exposed 
occasionally  to  a  high  temperature,  without  being  ignited. 
The  writer  applies  it  at  times  in  his  plant  houses,  and  is 
never  troubled  with  either  red  spider  or  mildew ;  even 
among  roses  when  forcing  in  the  winter,  and  the  only 
trouble  is,  to  sprinkle  a  small  quantity  over  the  hot  water 
pipes,  or  coolest  end  of  the  flues,  three  or  four  times  during 
the  season.  If  proper  use  be  made  of  the  syringe,  the 
Bulphur  will  not  always  be  required,  but  when  applied  it 
answers  the  double  purpose  of  preventing  the  spread  of 
both  red  spider  and  mildew. 

The  different  species  of  scaly  and  mealy  bugs  may  be 
destroyed  by  the  preparation  recommended  for  the  vines 
as  the  wash  to  be  used  in  the  fall,  page  65.  The  scales 
generally  adhere  to  the  bark,  and  the  brown  ones  are 
often  so  near  the  color  of  it  as  to  require  a  close  look  to 
see  them ;  here  they  stick,  sucking  the  juices,  and  ejecting 
their  sugary  excrescence,  which  spreads  over  the  leaves, 
and  stops  up  the  breathing  pores.  The  mealy  bug  is  to  be 
found  in  the  crevices  between  the  bark,  in  the  joints,  and 
,  among  the  bunches,  in  the  form  of  little  cottony-looking 


158  THE    GRAPE. 

substances,  in  which  case  it  should  be  taken  out  with  a 
small  brush  or  pointed  stick,  for  if  left  in  its  lurking 
places,  the  bunches  among  which  it  is  located  will  be 
disfigured  and  too  dirty  for  use.  The  tortoise-shell  scale  is 
more  solitary  in  habits,  and  in  appearance  like  a  small  tor- 
toise-shell ;  it  is  to  be  found  in  the  same  places  as  the 
brown  scale,  lives  upon  the  juices  of  the  vine,  and  can  hi 
destroyed  by  the  same  means.  Aphidae,  or  green  and 
black  fly,  are  small  insects,  sluggish  in  movement,  having 
prominent  antennae,  a  large  abdomen,  and  a  long  probos- 
cis, with  which  they  pierce  the  cuticle  of  the  tender  shoots, 
and  draw  out  the  sap,  which  quickly  brings  decrepitude 
into  the  advancing  extremities.  They  are  viviparous  and 
gregarious,  and  increase  amazingly  fast. 

Thrips  are  small,  active,  linear-shaped  little  insects, 
which  congregate  on  and  run  over  the  under  surface  of 
the  leaves,  disfiguring  them,  and  eating  the  epidermis  or 
outer  covering;  and  the  fretters  (a  species  of  cycaclce)  move 
by  short  flights,  or  rather  jumps  when  disturbed  ;  they 
are  somewhat  linear  and  triangular  in  form,  small,  and  of 
a  palish  yellow  color,  and  like  the  last  they  feed  on  the 
outer  covering  of  the  leaves.  All  the  last  three  varieties 
can  be  destroyed  by  fumigating  with  tobacco,  but  care 
should  be  used  in  the  operation,  so  as  not  to  apply  too 
much  while  the  leaves  are  young  and  tender,  for  in  that 
state  they  are  soon  injured. 

The  rose  bug  is  a  lightish  brown  little  beetle,  with  a 
small  head,  and  long  proboscis.  In  some  parts  of  the 
country  it  is  very  destructive  to  hardy  grape-vines,  before 
and  about  the  time  of  blossoming.  It  congregates  through 
the  day-time  often  in  great  numbers,  and  eats  the  tender 
flower  stems,  thus  destroying  all  future  prospects  fof 
the  season.  The  most  effectual  way  of  keeping  this  trou- 
blesome customer  in  check,  is  by  hand-picking,  at  inter 


[NSECTS.  15i> 

eals  through  the  day,  more  particularly  early  in  the  morn 
ing,  for  although  it  may  be  caught  at  any  time  when  at 
rest  upon  a  plant,  it  is  more  sluggish  before  the  heat  of  the 
day  commences.  Being  only  the  visitor  of  a  period,  annu- 
ally, a  careful  watching  for  three  or  four  weeks  is  requi- 
site at  this  time,  after  which  it  disappears,  and  is  no  more 
trouble.  The  cockchafer  beetles  are  larger,  more  oval  in 
form  than  the  foregoing,  and  of  several  colors;  they  attack 
the  leaves  and  young  shoots  through  the  season,  but  are 
not  so  destructive.  The  same  process  (hand-picking)  will 
have  to  be  resorted  to  for  their  destruction.  There  are 
also  several  kinds  of  the  larvae  of  humming  bird  moths 
that  occasionally  feed  upon  the  young  stems,  and  edges  of 
the  leaves,  and  which,  boing  so  near  the  color  of  the  parts 
they  feed  upon,  and  cylindrical  in  form,  are  somewhat  dif- 
ficult to  find  ;  consequently  when  it  is  seen  that  injury  is 
being  done,  a  sharp  look-out  ought  to  be  practised,  and  a 
quick  eye  will  soon  get  accustomed  to  the  detection  of 
these,  and  any  other  kind  of  caterpillars  that  occasionally 
may  be  annoying  And  here  we  may  state  that  the  bent 
advice  which  can  be  given  in  this  matter  in  a  general  way 
is,  to  remember  the  old  saying,  that  a  "stitch  in  time 
saves  nine ;"  and  if  we  do  not  wish  to  cultivate  our  de- 
structive propensities,  by  having  to  destroy  an  immensity 
in  number  of  God's  links  in  creation,  we  ought  to  have  a 
benevolent  feeling,  and  recollect  that  the  earliest  and  first 
onslaught  upon  the  precocious  subject  will  render  un- 
necessary the  putting  to  death  of  countless  myriads  after- 
ward, each  of  which,  In  the  true  sense  of  reason,  has  as 
good  a  right  to  live  as  ourselves. 

With  regard  to  the  grapery  under  glass,  if  the  insect 
world  is  "  legion,"  and  the  generations  quick  in  succession, 
they  are  easily  kept  down,  and  nothing  but  gross  negli- 
gence  or  ignorance  will  permit  them  to  get  ahead.     U*f 


160  THE  GRJ     X. 

water  freely  during  the  earlier  periods  of  growth,  drive  h 
into  all  crevices  of  the  house,  and  judiciously  over  the 
vines,  and  you  may  generally  defy  all  the  host  of  them. 
If  after  the  fruit  begins  to  ripen  they  should  make  an 
attack,  the  sulphur  and  tobacco  may  be  applied  as  recom- 
mended, when  their  comparatively  small  numbers  will  be 
jpeedil  y  put  to  the  ront. 


CHAPTER     XV. 

THE    VINEYARD,    AND    OUT-DOOR, 
CULTURE. 

So  far  the  grape-vine  has  been  treated  of  in  a  general 
way,  as  regards  the  natural  disposition  of  the  various 
kinds  in  cultivation.  The  practical  details  also  are 
more  particularly  explained  for  the  treatment  of  the 
exotics,  but  to  make  a  clean  breast  of  our  present  busi- 
ness, there  is  required  some  more  notice  of  the  natives, 
and  out-door  culture.  If  we  could  be  satisfied  with  a 
stand-Still  position,  the  thing  might  remain  as  it  is,  for 
almost  everybody  who  has  a  yard  of  land  thinks  of  a 
grape-vine  :  and  yet  a  greater  number  know  how  to 
grow  grapes,  if  we  are  to  believe  the  many  metaphysical 
conversations  that  often  take  place  The  fact  is,  that  all 
the  species  and  varieties  will  more  or  less  prosper  with 
almost  any  kind  of  treatment,  providing  they  be  in  a 
suitable  climate  ;  but  this  does  not  argue  against  the 
best  cultivation,  and  there  is  little  fear  of  contradiction 
when  t  he  statement  is  made  that  skill  and  care  will  be  as 
amply  repaid  with  any  or  all  of  the  kinds.  It  matters 
not  whether  for  wine  or  table  use,  this  still  holds  good, 
and  the  only  difference  is  in  what  is  required.  If,  for 
instance,  the  produce  be  intended  for  wine,  it  will  be 
necessary  to  combine,  as  much  as  possible,  those  pecu- 
liar characteristics  which  the  best  samples  are  found 
to  possess,  and  in  such  case  it  is  not  advisable  to  intro- 
duce too  much  stimulating  matter  to  the  roots,  but  let 
nature  have  her  way,  with  help  directed  towards  her  own 
(101) 


162  THE   GRAPE. 

course,  and  still  furthei  to  make  use  of  those  varieties  that 
contain  within  their  original  structure  more  than  usual  of 
those  ingredients  which  are  suitable  for  the  purpose.  Now 
generally,  with  due  maturity,  there  is  enough  of  the  car 
bonaceous  property,  that  can,  by  the  plant's  own  action 
be  converted  into  sugar,  and  of  course  by  proper  fermenta 
tion  a  sufficient  proportion  of  the  alcoholic  principle  may 
be  obtained ;  but  this  does  not  give  the  particular  nor  yet 
the  varied  aroma  for  which  some  wines  are  so  prized.  Toe 
much  encouragament  to  the  production  of  exterior  develop- 
ment delays  the  formation  of  concentrated  sugary  matter, 
and  those  constituent  properties  which  are  derived  from 
hydrogen  and  other  gases,  that  form  in  the  exact  propor- 
tion those  very  desirable  accompaniments  which  connois- 
seurs delight  in.  Consequently  it  is  easily  seen  that 
moderate  growth,  with  efficient  drainage;  must  be  the  best, 
and  that  as  these  peculiar  properties  are  invariably  more 
highly  concentrated  under  the  influence  of  light  and  free 
air,  ample  space  is  essential  to  vineyard  culture.  Although 
our  country  is  said  to  be  "  the  land  of  the  vine,"  it  by  no 
means  follows  that  we  may  plant  with  impunity  in  any 
situation,  or  under  any  circumstances,  and  notwithstanding 
it  is  found  that  some  varieties  grow  even  in  swamp  land, 
and  produce  fine  fruit  withal,  when  left  to  ramble  among 
the  branches  and  overtop  the  loftiest  neighboring  trees,  if 
we  try  the  same  in  culture  for  wine  purposes,  it  would  in 
the  greatest  number  of  cases  be  nothing  but  a  miserable 
failure ;  firstly,  on  account  of  deficiency  in  the  quality  of 
fruit ;  and  secondly,  there  would  be  no  certainty  of  it 
becoming  ripe,  from  the  liability  to  the  rot.  On  the  other 
hand,  the  locality  may  be  in  all  respects  suitable,  but  yet 
bo  oxposed  to  violent  storms,  that  the  foliage  may  be  in- 
jured and  torn  to  the  detriment  of  both  fruit  and  plant, 
and  therefore  such  should  not  he  made  choice  o£     Again, 


VINEYARD   AND   OUT-DOOR   CULTURE.  163 

some  caution  should  be  exercised  with  regard  to  those 
aspects  which  lie  open  to  the  winds  that  bring  with  them 
the  damp  and  fogs  of  summer ;  consequently,  it  is  objec- 
tionable to  choose  a  slope  toward  the  sea.  Each  tract  of 
country  has  its  own  peculiarities,  and  an  acquaintance  with 
the  neighborhood  will  enable  any  observant  mind  to  de- 
cide in  this  particular  There  is  no  advantage  in  following 
So  the  letter  the  advice  of  those  who,  too  often,  persist  in 
believing  a  south-east  slope  to  be  imperatively  necessary- 
men  who  may  have  prospered  well  enough  in  their  own 
country  and  climate,  are  sometimes  wedded  to  a  certain 
faith,  and  have  not  always  sufficient  tractability  of  mind 
to  alter  their  practice  or  adapt  it  to  a  difference  of  circum- 
stances. If  we  consider  that  along  the  eastern  shores  the 
damp  air  which  is  brought  from  the  ocean  almost  invariably 
brings  on  a  tendency  to  mildew  and  rot,  it  is  evident  that 
in  such  a  region  it  would  be  much  better  to  adopt  a  spot 
which  is  sheltered  by  higher  ground  on  the  eastern  side. 
At  the  same  time,  a  low  or  moist  situation  should  by  all 
means  be  avoided,  or  one  where  the  air  is  liable  to  be 
stagnant  at  times.  The  next  most  important  item  is  a  dry 
under  base ;  a  rough  rubbly  gravel  subsoil,  with  a  con- 
tinued descent  below,  will  generally  prove  naturally  well- 
drained,  but  in  all  examples  to  the  contrary  it  ought  to  be 
made  so  by  artificial  means. 

Nothing  conduces  more  to  prosperity  than  a  soil  strongly 
impregnated  with  carbonate  of  lime,  or  having  limestone 
rock  beneath.  If  any  body  is  sceptical  in  this,  they  may 
be  easily  convinced  by  referring  to  analysis,  or  more 
simply  by  examining  the  incrustation  left  on  the  edges  of 
the  leaves  after  the  evaporation  of  that  excessive  perspira- 
tion, which  sometimes  takes  place  in  hot  and  cloudy 
weather,  while  the  growth  of  the  plant  is  young.  There 
is  perhaps  no  plant  which  exhibits  more  clearly  than  does 


164  THE   GRAPE. 

the  grape-vine,  the  oft-disputed  fact  that  these  inorganic 
substances  are  really  absorbed.  Here  is  a  plain  proof 
that  they  are,  for  according  to  the  greater  or  less  amount 
of  lime  in  the  soil,  so  will  this  appearance  be  manifest.  It 
is  most  likely,  that  if  all  plants  were  so  situated  as  to  be 
enabled  to  take  up  the  exact  proportions  of  the  various 
elementary  food  required  by  them,  most  of  the  diseases  to 
which  they  are  subject  would  disappear;  and  certain 
enough  it  is,  that  all  would  be  prevented,  if  we  could  con- 
trol the  elements  to  suit  the  different  stages  of  growth, 
and  adapt  the  light  and  heat  to  all  respective  constitutions. 

In  making  choice  of  a  piece  of  land  for  a  vineyard,  it 
is  not  always  convenient  to  gain  possession  of  the  precise 
spot  which  our  intelligence  would  covet ;  but  if  it  could 
be  done,  and  there  are  many  opportunities  where  it  may 
be,  we  should  accept  an  elevated  table-land,  lying  high 
and  dry  upon  a  limestone  base,  and  screened  from  the 
damp  easterly  and  cold  north  and  north-west  winds  by  a 
distant  range  of  hills,  which  would  protect  without  pro- 
ducing a  confined  atmosphere,  and  give  shelter  against  the 
most  frigid  blasts  of  a  below  zero  temperature. 

We  may  also  take  a  more  philosophical  view  of  the 
method  of  planting  than  is  generally  practised,  and  in- 
stead of  fixing  the  plants  in  the  position  of  so  many  hills 
of  corn,  and  about  the  same  distance  apart,  when  each 
stool  requires  a  stake,  and  the  bearing  cane  has  to  be 
curved  over,  thereby  being  only  half  supported,  we  would 
consider  the  aspect  that  might  have  to  be  dealt  with,  the 
inclination  towards  the  sun's  rays,  and  all  such  matters, as 
would  give  opportunity  for  the  most  prevalent  drying 
winds  to  blow  through  each  row  of  vines,  and  in  addition 
to  expose  the  upper  side  of  the  leaves  as  much  as  possible 
to  the  action  of  the  mid-day  sun,  in  order  the  better  to 
concentrate  true  growth,  and  prepare  the  plants  to  resist 


VINEYARD    AND   OUT-DOOR   CULTURE.  165 

the  violent  and  sudden  changes  of  weather  for  which  our 
climate  is  so  proverbial.  The  following  explanation  will 
perhaps  show  more  clearly  what  is  here  meant.  After 
making  choice  of  a  suitable  soil  and  situation,  and  making 
sure  that  the  subsoil  is  well  drained,  commence  to  trench 
with  the  spade,  or  plough  deeply  the  whole  piece.  If 
the  spade  be  used  and  the  soil  shallow,  this  operation  may 
be  performed  as  follows :  Take  out  a  trench  at  one  side, 
three  feet  wide  and  one  spit  deep;  wheel  or  cart  this  to 
the  other  end,  then  loosen  up  the  under  soil  another  spit, 
break  it  up  well  and  leave  it  in  the  bottom ;  throw  the 
next  upper  crust  on  the  top  of  this,  and  so  on  until  all  is 
finished.  Where  a  large  extent  is  to  be  cultivated,  it  would 
become  too  expensive  to  trench,  and  the  plough  will  have 
to  do  the  work  ;  in  which  case,  the  subsoil  plough  ought  to 
follow  the  top  loosening.  Where  the  soil  is  equally  good 
the  two  spit  deep,  the  bottom  may  be  turned  to  the  top  to 
advantage.  Very  little  manure  will  be  needed  if  the  earth 
be  in  good  heart,  and  well  incorporated  with  vegetable 
matter,  but  otherwise  it  is  advisable  to  work  in  at  the 
same  time,  from  ten  to  fifteen  tons  of  decomposed  barn- 
yard dung  to  the  acre ;  and  if  there  be  a  deficiency  of  the 
alkaline  bases,  a  dressing  of  lime  and  wood  ashes  will 
prove  very  beneficial.  Although  the  roots  of  the  grape 
vine,  when  established  delight  in  an  open  turfy  soil,  a 
cross  ploughing  and  harrowing  will  be  required  to  pul- 
verize, sufficiently,  the  soil  before  planting,  and  give  the 
young  fibres  a  better  chance  to  lay  hold  of  it  at  first  start 
The  work,  also,  ought  to  be  done  during  the  summer  01 
previous  early  fall,  so  as  to  get  into  good  condition  by  th 
time  it  may  be  wanted. 

There  are  many  cultivators  who  think  it  absolutely 
necessary  to  choose  a  side-hill  situation  for  the  vineyard, 
•rod  it  must  be  admitted  that  such  is  often  the  best,  bat 


166  THE    GRAPE. 

there  is  no  reason  why  it  should  he  invariably  accepted  to 
the  entire  exclusion  of  any  other.  However,  where  the 
disposition  leads  that  way,  and  all  the  above-mentioned 
considerations  are  not  to  be  acquired,  it  will  answer  the 
purpose,  and  if  the  slope  be  anything  like  steep,  the  whole 
extent  will  have  to  be  formed  into  terraces.  This  becomes 
more  or  less  expensive  according  to  the  angle  of  ascent. 
It  should  also  be  remembered,  that  on  a  hill-side,  the  cold 
air,  more  particularly  in  the  night,  is  constantly  moving 
along  the  surface,  from  the  top  towards  the  bottom,  there- 
by preventing  that  health-producing  evaporation  of  warmth 
from  the  soil  which  is  obtained  from  the  solar  heat  of  the 
previous  day,  and  causing,  in  our  extreme  climate,  a  con- 
densation of  the  moisture  as  it  radiates  upwards,  which  i? 
then  carried  along  towards  the  lowest  level  in  the  form 
of  a  damp  and  cold  draft  among  the  under  parts  of  the 
plants ;  and  it  does  not  require  a  second  thought  to  under- 
stand how  injurious  such  a  circumstance  is  in  all  other 
kinds  of  culture.  No  doubt  many  will  think  that  such 
notions  as  these  are  not  worthy  of  consideration,  but  as 
we  are  being  troubled  with  rot,  mildew,  and  other  hurtful 
affections,  it  is  well  to  guard  against  all  things  that  are 
likely  to  provoke,  or  produce  the  evil,  and  avoid  them 
accordingly.  Arguing  from  the  culture  of  the  grape- 
vine, or  any  other  plant  under  glass,  we  know  that  such 
action  would  bring  on  these  very  diseases;  and  it  is  not  to 
inside  cultivation  alone  that  we  are  at  all  times  dependent 
for  proof,  for  there  now  and  then  happens  an  example 
where  a  plant  is  trained  on  two  aspects,  or  the  head  is  in 
•different  positions,  when  one  part  is  quite  free  from  disease, 
while  the  other  is  badly  affected ;  and  it  is  just  possible 
that  these  cold  currents  of  damp  air  is  one  of  the  causes 
of  mischief 

To  prepare  a  side-hill  for  a  vineyard,  it  will  be  requisite 


VINEYARD    AND   OUT-DOOR   CULTURE.  167 

to  form  terraces  from  the  bottom  upwards  in  width 
according  to  the  steepness  of  ascent.  If  very  abrupt,  only 
one  row  of  vines  can  be  accommodated  on  each,  but  with 
a  more  gentle  inclination  the  breadth  may  be  sufficient 
for  two  or  even  three  rows.  The  front  will  also  require 
to  be  banked  up  to  render  the  upper  surface  level,  an  J 
there  is  nothing  more  suitable  for  the  purpose  than  thick 
turfs  of  grass-sod,  fixed  on  the  edges,  inclining  from  the 
perpendicular  towards  the  bank.  Generally  speaking, 
thsse  sods  may  be  cut  from  the  immediate  surface,  when 
a  portion  of  each  length  to  be  laid  out  will  furnish  enough 
material  for  its  own  front,  and  as  there  is  a  right  and  a 
wrong  in  this  operation,  like  most  other  things,  it  may  be 
of  service  to  show  the  right.  When  a  bank  of  this  charac 
ter  is  made  of  square  sods,  as  seen  in  Fig.  30,  they  are 
subject  to  give  way  during  the  rains  of  the  first  summer, 
from  the  fact  of  there  being  no  mechanical  holdfast.  Fig.  31 

Fig.  30.  Fig.  n. 

WW  Vs\Y\ 


ITITITI       /  '  '  I '  '  1 1 


shows  how  this  may  be  obviated,  and  the  trouble  or  ex- 
pense of  workmanship  is  the  same  in  both  cases.  The 
way  to  get  these  latter  is,  to  simply  cut  down  a  few  inches 
with  the  spade  in  a  slanting  direction,  by  a  straight  line 
at  equal  distances,  as  much  as  may  be  wanted,  and  after- 
ward cut  to  the  same  width,  with  the  line  placed  diagon- 
ally to  the  first  cutting,  which  will  give  each  individual 
god  of  the  right  size  and  form  to  push  together,  by  merely 
reversing  the  bevelled  edge  at  each  rise  on  the  height. 
The  trenching,  plowing,  manuring,  &c,  will  be  the  same 
in  this  as  the  before-noticed  plan.     The  next  thing  to  b# 


168  THE   GRAPE. 

done,  is  the  preparing  of  supports  upon  which  to  train  th« 

vines. 

The  most  common  method  of  planting  is,  in  straight 
rows  from  five  to  six  feet  apart,  and  at  right  angles  with 
each  other,  and  to  simply  have  a  pole  to  each  vine ;  the 
method  of  training  being  the  long  rod,  explained  page 
12C.  This  answers  the  purpose  very  well  and  has  be- 
come the  most  customary,  in  part  from  the  introduced 
rDutine  of  Europe,  and  in  some  measure  as  a  consideration 
of  economy.  As  to  the  latter,  there  may  be  some  saving 
to  the  pocket,  but  unless  there  are  more  than  counter- 
balancing advantages,  there  is  no  use  in  following  old 
customs,  so  long  as  better  ones  can  be  introduced,  and  in 
the  present  case,  an  improvement  may  be  accomplished 
by  cheap  trellises,  which  may  be  made  in  the  following 
manner :  Prepare  a  quantity  of  good  strong  poles  of 
locust,  chestnut,  oak,  or  ash,  seven  feet  six  inches;  point 
and  char  these  three  feet  on  the  lower  end  and  drive 
them  into  the  ground  two  feet  six  inches,  in  rows  six  feet 
apart,  extending  east  and  west,  or  as  near  these  points  as 
may  be  practicable,  and  the  poles  nine  feet  assunder ;  next 
fix  horizontally  long  narrow  strips  of  wood,  or  straight 
but  thin  saplings,  to  the  uprights,  at  a  distance  of  one  foot ; 
this  will  make  a  substantial  trellis  on  which  to  train  the 
vines,  and  be  far  superior,  with  very  little  more  expense 
than  the  pole-to-one-vine  that  is  so  often  made  use  of.  It 
is  high  time  for  us  to  adopt  a  principle  of  neatness  com- 
bined with  utility,  and  endeavor  to  supersede  all  such 
primitive  machinery.  If  we  are  to  imitate,  let  it  not  be  a 
retrograde  movement,  but  onward  progress ;  and  a  stil 
further  improvement  might  be  introduced  in  the  trellis  re- 
commended, by  using  galvanized  iron  wire  for  the  hori- 
zontal supports.  Th*re  is  some  prejudice  existing  against 
the  use  of  wire  as  it  has  been  thought  that  it  does  injury 


VINEYARD   AND   OUT-DOOR  CULTURE.  169 

to  the  vines  by  the  rusting  and  their  friction  against  so 
hard  a  material,  but  practically  we  do  not  find  it  so.  Let 
the  superintendent  only  attend  to  his  duty  without  nurs- 
ing his  old  prejudices,  and  see  to  the  proper  tying,  and 
our  word  for  it,  there  will  be  no  more  detriment  in  wire 
than  anything  else.  However,  let  everybody  go  along  a£ 
he  thinks  best,  only  move  onward,  and  as  we  are  a  great, 
and  daily  becoming  a  greater  nation,  let  us  not  disappoint 
the  expectations  of  the  world  by  our  want  of  originality. 

All  may  now  be  considered  as  ready  for  planting,  and 
here  again  we  have  many  notions  to  contend  with.  Cut- 
tings—one-year old,  two-year  old,  and  even  three-year 
old  plants,  have  each  been  considered  as  the  best,  accord 
ing  to  the  whims  and  fancies  of  pedantry.  The  fact  is,  wo 
want  a  healthy  start,  at  the  least  expense ;  and  as  the 
plants  must  have  a  length  of  time  to  become  profitable, 
what  can  be  more  economical,  or  insure  future  success 
better,  than  good  one  year  vines  ?  The  more  than  half  part 
of  this  business  depends  on  previous  preparation ;  but,  as 
this  costs  money,  it  is  well,  at  the  same  time,  to  be  getting 
ready  the  future  occupants ;  consequently  it  is  good  advice 
to  say :  raise  the  plants  on  one  spot,  and  be  preparing  on 
the  main  superficial  area ;  or,  if  it  be  not  convenient  to 
propagate,  adapt  all  contingencies  so  as  to  make  sure  of 
after  results. 

A  young  and  well-rooted  plant  will,  if  properly  managed 
and  attended,  produce  a  greater  growth  than  a  stunted 
older  one,  with  the  additional  advantage  of  being  alike  in 
all  its  parts;  what  is  true  individually,  will  be  so  collect 
ively,  over  the  whole  vineyard,  and  a  greater  uniformity 
will  be  obtained.  In  transplanting,  take  care  that  the 
roots  are  lifted  carefully,  and  removed  to  their  new  quar- 
ters, before  they  become  dried ;  nothing  produces  more 
evil  to  any  plant  than  this  often  careless  practice.    Roots 

8 


170  THE   GRAPE. 

aie  organized  beings,  containing  fluid  matter,  and  intended 
to  convey  most  of  the  nutriment  upward  to  the  whole 
superstructure ;  and  if  their  tender  cells  become  shrivelled, 
they  are  nit  capable  of  again  performing  their  offices  with 
the  samf  degree  of  energy,  but  remain  comparatively 
inactive  for  a  length  of  time,  or  die  immediately.  If  the 
fop  languishes,  a  weak  start  is  the  consequence,  with  per- 
haps the  loss  of  a  whole  season. 

If  the  trellis  be  accepted,  the  rows  may  be  six  feet 
apart,  and  the  plants  four  feet  asunder ;  but,  in  the  ordi- 
nary way  of  staking,  five  feet  each  way  will  be  the  nearest 
possible  distance.  In  putting  down  the  roots,  dig  a  hole 
six  inches  deep,  and  wide  enough  for  them  to  be  spread 
out  all  around ;  cover  carefully  with  well  pulverized  soil ; 
cut  off  the  head  to  two  or  three  good  eyes  ;  and,  when  the 
vines  begin  to  start,  mulch  over,  so  far  as  the  roots  extend, 
with  rotted  barn-yard  manure ;  or,  if  that  cannot  be  had, 
then  with  any  vegetable  refuse,  that  is  free  from  seeds, 
that  may  be  at  hand. 

When  the  shoots  begin  to  elongate  somewhat,  it  will  be 
seen  which  is  going  to  be  the  strongest,  and  all  the  others 
may  be  rubbed  off.  As  this  continues  to  grow,  tie  it  up  t  j 
the  stake  or  trellis,  pinch  out  the  laterals  (the  small  side- 
shoots  which  grow  at  the  base  of  each  leaf)  to  one  eye,  as 
they  are  produced,  and  rub  off  all  superfluous  suckers  or 
branches.  Nothing  further  will  be  required  than  to  keep 
the  ground  free  from  weeds,  by  hoeing,  or  the  plough, 
through  the  summer.  The  long-rod  method  of  training  ig 
one  of  the  best  for  the  vineyard,  but  a  periodical  extension 
is  still  better,  as  it  is  more  in  accordance  with  the  consti- 
futional  powers  of  the  grape-vine,  more  particularly  the 
strong,  growing  natives,  and  alike  applicable  to  all  the 
varieties.  Here  is  one  of  the  greatest  advantages  of  the 
trellis  versus  the  pole  method,  as  with  the  latter  no  greatei 


VINEYARD   AND   OUT-DOOR   CULTURE.  171 

bulk  of  plant  than  is  acquired  after  the  third  year  is 
practicable  A  reference  to  the  chapter  on  pruning  will 
explain  all  respecting  this  part;  so  there  is  no  use  in  pur- 
suing the  subject  further,  excepting  to  state  that  cleanli- 
ness is  one  of  the  first  demands  of  the  vineyard,  and  is  sure 
to  more  than  repay  for  the  invested  labor. 

The  training  over  arbors,  around  dwellings,  and  all 
su  :h  positions,  will  require  the  same  fundamental  culture 
that  has  been  explained  for  the  vineyard,  the  only  differ- 
ence being  in  the  peculiar  desires  or  fancy  of  the  culti- 
vator with  regard  to  the  form  of  the  plant.  As  the  grape- 
vine is  so  lavish  with  its  embracing  arms,  they  may  be 
entwined  around  or  over  anything  that  will  give  them 
support ;  the  whole  plant  will  continue  to  delight  the  eye 
with  its  beauty,  and  gratify  the  palate  with  its  luscious 
sweets,  if  kindly  treated.  Even  with  worse  than  careless- 
ness, we  may  enjoy  a  portion  of  its  liberality  ;  but,  accord- 
ing as  kindness  is  bestowed,  so  may  we  expect  to  meet 
with  an  abundant  gratitude;  for,  like  the  better  part  of 
humanity,  it  can  appreciate,  and  will  fully  return  former 
benevolence. 


CALENDAR    OF  OPERATIONS 


J  A  TSV  AR  Y. 


OUT-DOOR     CULTURE. 


In  our  LOrthern,  ice-bound  regions  very  little  can  be 
done  in  this  month,  further  than  preparing  for  the  future. 
We  may,  however,  take  notice  of  all  that  will  be  re« 
quired*  such  as  the  conveying  of  manure  to  the  plants, 
painting  and  cleaning  trellises,  collecting  and  preparing 
stake!'1,  and  other  matters  of  like  character,  which  would 
interfere  with  time  when  we  can  ill  spare  it.  In  the 
South,  the  instructions  for  February  and  March  will  be 
suitable  at  this  time.  And  here  we  may  state,  that  a 
similar  difference  will  apply,  until  about  ripening-time, 
for  the  rame  latitudes. 

COLD   GRAPERY. 

Keep  the  house  cool  and  open  with  bright  sunshine, 
but  close  at  night,  and  likewise  in  the  day-time  when  the 
weather  is  severe  and  cloudy.  Examine  occasionally  for 
rats  and  mice,  as  they  sometimes  do  much  mischief  by 
gnawing  the  vines.  It  is  well  to  rub  a  little  arsenic  be 
tween  slices  of  bread,  cheese,  or  beef,  and  lay  them  close 
to  the  base  of  the  plants  underneath  the  covering. 

FORCING    HOUSE. 

Here  the  grape-grower  has,  fo^  some  time  to  p<;rae,  to 

[113] 


174  THE   GRAPE. 

exert  his  best  skill.  See  to  the  covering  of  the  borders  j 
be  sure  these  are  right. — (See  page  81.)  In  the  first 
early  house  the  vines  will  be  considerably  ach  anced  in 
gi  "uvth — perhaps,  near  blooming — and  the  temperature, 
in  such  case,  may  range  from  60°  at  night,  to  85° 
ui  *he  day,  with  sunshine,  or  75°  without  it.  When 
the  blossoms  begin  to  expand,  cease  watering  overhead 
until  the  berries  are  set,  but  damp  the  surface  of  the 
floor,  and  over  the  heating  apparatus,  while  the  house  is 
still  warm  in  the  afternoon.  The  second  early  house  will 
be  about  starting,  for  which  see  page  84.  These  direc- 
tions will  apply  to  this  house  now.     See,  also,  page  87. 


RETARDING     HOUSE. 

This  part  of  grape-culture  has  not  yet  become  as  gen 
eral  as  it  ought  to  be.  The  object  is  to  keep  back  or 
retard  the  ripening  of  the  fruit  (fully  explained  on  page 
98),  so  as  to  have  it  fit  for  use  during  the  winter  months. 
To  the  commercial  grower  we  here  more  particularly 
speak,  as,  during  the  winter  months,  a  higher  price  is 
paid  for  grapes  than  at  any  other  season  of  the  year. 
At  present  the  demand  far  exceeds  the  supply.  Instead 
of  fine  black  Hamburgs,  or  others  of  like  quality,  there 
is  nothing  for  sale  but  the  White  Lisbon  and  Black  Por- 
tugal— two  inferior  kinds,  which  are  rendered  still  worse 
by  long  keeping,  and  the  sea-voyage  from  Portugal  and 
other  parts  of  southern  Europe.  As  the  grapes  ought 
now  to  be  hanging  ripe  in  this  house,  constant  slow  fires 
are  necessary  to  keep  out  the  frost.  Do  not  let  the  tem- 
perature rise  higher  than  from  40°  to  45°  at  night, 
and  55°  in  the  day.  No  water  is  required,  an  I  every 
precaution  should  be  used  to  maintain  a  dry  atmos. 
phere,  and  the  bunches  free  from  decaying  berries, 
For  pruning,  see  page  101. 


CALENDAR  OF  OPERATIONS.         175 


F  E  ItKUARY, 
OUT-DOOR     CULTURE. 

Not  much  can  yet  be  done  in  this  department,  except 
as  explained  last  month.  If  pruning  was  not  done  in  the 
fall,  take  the  earliest  opportunity  for  the  operation 
during  the  first  mild  weather.  Never  cut  a  branch  from 
any  plant  when  frozen ;  rather  wait  beyond  the  usual 
time,  but  do  not  delay  in  this  case  longer  than  is  neces- 
sary. Tie  the  vines  to  the  stakes  or  trellises ;  level 
manure  when  necessary,  so  that  the  melting  snow  and 
rains  may  wash  it  down  amongst  the  roots  previous  to 
digging  or  forking  the  ground  after  winter  is  over. 

COLD   GRAPERY. 

The  directions  for  last  month  will  apply  also  to  this ; 
consequently,  there  is  no  need  for  repetition. 

FORCING     HOUSE. 

As  the  weather  is  very  changeable,  generally,  in  this 
month,  the  utmost  care  is  required ;  for,  be  it  remem 
bered,  that  all  the  growth  we  have  got,  so  far,  is  artifi- 
cial, and  soon  injured.  Watch  particularly  the  changes 
from  a  north-east  and  wet  storm,  to  the  sudden,  bright, 
severe,  and  drying  atmosphere  of  the  north-west.  In 
such  case,  mind  to  keep  the  floor  of  the  house  damped 
over  several  times  during  the  first  day,  and  afterwards 
until  the  tender  leaves  can  withstand  the  sun's  fervid 
influence.  Syringe  overhead  every  evening  in  clear 
weather,  but  withhold  water  during  wet  storms,  and 
while  the  blossoms  are  expanded,  except  on  the  floor  of 
the  house.  In  the  earliest  house  let  the  temperature 
range  from  60°  at  night  to  85°  or  90°  with  sunshine 
For  second  early,  see  Jeurnal,  page  87. 


J  76  THE   GRAPE. 

RETARDING  HOUSE. 

Attend  to  .ast  month's  directions. 

MARCH. 

OUT-DOOR  CULTURE. 

In  all  localities,  excepting  the  extreme  north,  the  iol 
will  now  be  in  a  fit  state  for  working,  and  no  time  should 
be  lost  in  getting  ready  for  planting.  If  the  land  for  vin- 
yard  culture  has  an  open,  sandy,  or  gravelly  subsoil, 
where  the  water  passes  freely  away,  there  will  be  no 
further  preparation  required  than  deep  trenching,  or  sur- 
face ploughing,  followed  with  a  subsoil  plough  that  will, 
at  least,  penetrate  twenty  inches  deep, — if  deeper,  so  much 
the  better ;  indeed,  it  ought  to  go  down  to  the  natural 
drainage.  If  the  subsoil  is  heavy  and  stiff,  the  situation 
is  inferior  for  the  purpose,  and  artificial  drains  will  more 
than  repay  the  cost  of  making. 

Many  persons  think  the  older  a  vine  is  before  planting, 
the  sooner  they  will  have  a  full  crop  of  fruit.  I  have  fre- 
quently talked  with  those  who  needed  to  be  convinced 
that  a  three  or  four  year  old  vine  would  not  set  and  ripen 
plenty  of  bunches  the  same  season  it  is  planted.  For  the 
vineyard,  either  cuttings  or  one  year  old  plants  are  best. 
The  latter,  all  things  considered,  have  the  preference.  It 
is  far  better  to  have  an  abundance  of  healthy  roots,  with 
a  small  well-ripened  stem,  than  the  reverse.  The  plants 
may  be  arranged  at  the  distance  of  five  feet  each  way. 
(See  page  168.)  When  cuttings  are  used,  or  if  the  plants 
have  been  raised  from  cuttings,  there  will  be  roots  emit> 
ted  along  the  buried  part  of  the  stem,  and  the  planting 
should  be,  in  either  case,  deep,  for  the  sake  of  retaining 
the  whole  of  them,  and  also  enabling  the  vine  to  have  a 
reservoir  to  feed  from  in  dry  weather. 


CALENDAR  OF   OPERATIONS. 


177 


It  is  expected  that  pruning  has  been  completed  before 
this  time;  if  not  so,  do  it  without  delay.  When  this 
operation  is  deferred  until  late,  the  vines  will  "  bleed" 
freely,  and,  although  this  does  not  materially  injure  them, 
it  nevertheless  prevents  a  vigorous  burst  of  the  foliage 
and  young  shoots,  retards  the  ripening,  and  injures  the 
quality  of  the  fruit  tor  the  season.  If  the  vines  have  not 
been  neatly  tied  to  the  trellises,  or  stakes,  do  it  at  once. 
When  the  branches  are  left  to  be  dashed  about  by  the 
equinoctial  gales,  or  even  handled  when  the  buds  are 
swelling,  they  are  easily  injured.  Remove  all  the  loose 
bark,  and  examine  if  there  be  any  chrysalides  or  eggs  of 
insects  in  the  crevices, — if  so,  destroy  them  ;  and  when 
there  is  only  a  limited  quantity  of  vines,  and  time  can  be 
spared,  it  makes  sure  work  if  both  branches  and  trellis 
should  be  washed  over  with  the  mixture  mentioned  on 
page  05.  Near  a  dwelling-house  or  other  building  this 
ought  to  be  done  every  season,  for  in  such  places  the 
insects  are  often  more  numerous,  and  have  better  chances 
of  protection  through  the  winter.  Have 
an  eye  to  neatness  and  finish,  and  as 
soon  as  the  weather  will  permit,  fork 
over  the  surface,  working  in  the  ma- 
nure or  other  dressing,  applied  in  the 
Fall  as  a  mulch,  at  the  same  time. 

The  accompanying  figure  (Fig.  32) 
shows  another  very  good  method  for 
training  the  hardy  kinds,  and  is  best 
adapted  for  vineyards;  (a)  the  bearing 
blanches  ;  (b)  shoots  of  the  present  year, 
and  intended  for  fruiting  the  next  sea- 
§on;  (c)  stakes. 


Fio.  82. 


178  THE   GEAPE. 

COLD  GRAPERY. 

The  vines  may  remain  covered  until  the  latter  part  of 
the  present,  or,  in  late  situations,  the  beginning  of  next 
month.  The  house  should  be  kept  cool  by  having  the 
ventilators  and  doors  open  at  all  times  except  during, 
severe  frost.  After  the  covering  is  removed,  clean  the 
house  and  make  all  neat.  Fork  the  inside  beds,  and 
gi  re  a  thorough  syringing  over  the  whole  house,  select- 
ing a  mild  time  for  the  operation.  Do  not,  however, 
repeat  this  operation  daily  until  the  danger  from  sharp 
frosts  is  past.    For  planting,  see  page  59. 

FORCING  HOUSE. 

This  is  the  most  trying  month  in  the  year,  (even  mora 
so  than  the  preceding  one,)  where  grapes  are  being  forc- 
ed early,  as,  generally  speaking,  the  roots  are  in  a  cold 
bed,  and  notwithstanding  there  may  be  a  sufficient 
covering  on  the  surface,  still  the  soil  lacks  the  genial  heat 
which  a  summer's  sun  imparts,  while,  at  the  same  time, 
the  branches  are  exposed  to  a  temperature  and  atmos- 
phere suitable  to  their  healthy  action,  and  the  advancing 
fruit  is  drawing  considerably  on  the  energy  of  the  plants. 
This  difference  of  condition  and  artificial  position,  tends 
to  the  development  of  the  plant,  it  is  true,  but  the  ex- 
panded leaves  have  not  the  requisite  supply  of  organic 
matter  flowing  through  them,  which  causes  them  to 
remain  more  than  usually  thin  and  watery,  and  the 
fruit  is  liable  to  suffer  accordingly,  unless  the  greatest  cau- 
tion be  exercised.  The  weather  too,  at  this  time,  is  fickle, 
one  day  being  mild,  cloudy  and  moist,  while  the  next 
may  be  dry,  cold  and  windy,  with  severe  frost.  These 
sudden  differences  require  the  greatest  care  and  watch- 
fulness, else  after  a  day  of  severe  weather,  the  leaves  will 
suddenly  wilt  and  be  destroyed,  whon  the  sun's  powerful 


CALENDAR  OF  OPERATIONS.         179 

rays  strike  them.  During  these  cold  days,  do  not  open 
any  but  the  top  ventilators,  and  these  no  more  than  is 
necessary  to  keep  the  thermometer  from  rising  too  high. 
Damp  the  floor,  sides  and  ends  of  the  house,  so  as  to 
secure  a  humid  atmosphere,  which  will  assist  the  circu- 
lation of  the  sap,  the  leaves  absorbing  the  moisture 
through  the  stomata,  or  breathing  pores,  on  the  under 
side.  Be  careful  to  keep  a  steady  range  of  temperature 
from  60°  at  midnight,  and  75°  in  cloudy,  with  a  rise  or 
85°  to  90°  on  sunny  days.  Break  off  all  superfluous 
growing  shoots,  thin  the  berries  early,  and  reduce  the 
crop  down  to  what  is  finally  intended,  so  that  the  vines 
may  be  eased  as  much  as  possible.  The  directions  for 
January,  in  the  Forcing  House,  will  now  apply  to  tha 
Second  Early. 

RETARDING   HOUSE. 

Keep  the  atmosphere  dry  and  cool,  but  if  there  be  any 
gjapes  still  hanging  on  the  vines,  do  not  let  the  frost  in. 
At  this  time  the  vines  should  be  resting,  consequently 
C!.re  ought  to  be  used  in  preventing  the  house  from  be- 
coming heated.  If  the  pruning  is  not  finished,  do  it  im- 
mediately, clean  the  vines,  as  previously  advised  for  other 
ciops,  and  lower  the  canes  down  from  the  roof,  that  the 
si  n  may  not  have  so  much  influence  upon  them.  It  is 
n.ach  better  to  get  a  tardy  development  than  to  have  a 
Uw  temperature  during  growth. 

APRIL. 

Comparatively  speaking,  the  grape  grower  will  now 
bv  gin  to  have  busy  work.  The  various  successions  of  the 
ei  otics  are  more  or  less  in  activity,  from  the  swelling  bud 
to  full-sized  grapes,  and  the  natives  are  beginning  to  de» 
rr 'op,  which  renders  it  neceisary  that  we  should  be  on 
the  alert. 


ISO  THE  GRAPE. 

OUT-DOOR  CULTURE. 

In  this  department,  when  the  buds  are  burst  so  far  as 
to  show  which  are  likely  to  be  the  most  suitable  shoots 
for  training  in  the  right  places,  or  to  be  left  for  fruiting, 
go  over  the  whole  and  rub  off  all  that  are  not  wanted,  or 
which,  if  left,  would  produce  superfluous  growth.  This 
operation  requires  some  study  as  the  work  proceeds.  A 
reference  to  the  illustrations  in  former  pages  will  explain 
what  is  here  meant,  and  the  reader  will  readily  perceive 
which  buds  ought  to  be  taken  out  and  which  left  to  grow. 
I  wish  most  particularly  to  impress  the  importance  of 
this  dis-budding  upon  all  who  desire  either  profit,  or 
grapes  of  the  best  quality.  It  will  save  much  after-labor 
in  the  way  of  summer  pruning,  and  be  of  advantage  to 
the  vines  and  fruit  by  more  fully  exposing  the  leaves  to 
air  and  light.  The  branches  are  less  crowded,  and  the 
carbonic  acid  more  thoroughly  decomposed,  thus  form- 
ing a  larger  amount  of  saccharine  matter  in  the  fruit, 
and  better  ripened  and  firmer  wood  for  the  next  year. 

COLD  GRAPERY. 

The  vines  in  this  house  may  now  be  uncovered  even 
in  the  coldest  localities.  Examine  them  to  see  if  any 
injury  has  been  done  by  the  extreme  cold  of  the  past 
winter,  which  will  show  itself  in  the  form  of  longitu- 
dinal slits,  or  openings  along  the  canes,  especially  near 
the  upper  extremities.  These  will,  in  a  short  time, 
become  dark-colored  on  the  edges,  and  begin  to 
"  bleed,"  and  without  great  caution  the  whole,  or  a 
large  portion  of  the  cane,  will  die  off.  The  best  thing 
in  such  cases  is  to  tie  the  stem  to  the  roof-wires 
at  once,  and  keep  a  lower  temperature  for  a  week 
or  two.  If,  notwithstanding  this,  the  buds  do  not 
burst,  and  the  sap  still  continues  to  ooze  out,  do 
not  cut  down  immediately,  but  wait  until  a  healthy 


CALENDAR  OF  OPERATIONS.         181 

and  vigorous  shoot  near  the  lower  end  has  grown  some 
eighteen  inches,  when  the  whole  upper  head  may  be  cut 
away,  and  the  young  branch  trained  up  in  its  stead 
This  mischief  is  the  result  of  imperfectly  ripened  wood, 
and  insufficient  covering  during  the  winter,  a  fact  vi 
which  some  persons  have  been  rather  expensively  con 
vinced  during  the  last  few  severe  seasons,  and  which  has 
furnished  prejudice,  neglect,  and  bad  management,  a  sub- 
terfuge to  condemn  the  practice  of  growing  the  European 
grapes  under  glass,  without  artificial  heat.  When  no 
injury  has  occurred,  the  vines  may  be  loosely  tied  to 
the  wires,  with  the  top  left  suspended  in  an  arched 
position,  until  all  the  buds  are  well  and  evenly  grown 
some  two  or  three  inches,  after  which  the  canes  should 
be  fastened  in  their  permanent  form  for  the  summer. 
Do  not  let  any  drafts  of  air  into  the  house,  but  lower  the 
temperature  as  may  be  desired  by  opening  the  top  ven- 
tilators. Keep  the  house  cool  during  the  first  three 
weeks  on  account  of  the  liability  to  frosty  nights.  Let 
the  thermometer,  up  to  the  end  of  this  time,  rise  no 
higher  than  65°,  if  possible.  At  the  end  of  the  month  it 
may  be  allowed  to  rise  to  70°,  or  75°  and  80°,  and  now 
commence  using  water  freely  with  the  syringe  or  hose- 
pipe, evenings  and  mornings,  distributing  it  over  every 
part  of  the  vines,  and  into  all  crevices  of  the  woodwork, 
for  the  double  purpose  of  moistening  the  atmosphere, 
and  dislodging  any  insects  that  have  taken  refuge  there 

FORCING    HOUSE. 

The  earliest  crop  will  now  be  ripening  fast,  and  thin 
uing  will  be  finished.  The  heat  may  be  increased  to  65° 
or  70°  at  night,  and  85°  to  90°  at  mid-day.  Water  over- 
head ought  now  to  be  discontinued,  but  damp  the  floor 
of  an  evening.    Continue  to  nip  out  the  upper  adyancing 


182  THE   GRAPE 

growth  of  the  lateral  shoots  to  one  leaf  above  where  last 
stopped,  and  remove  all  the  lower  side  shoots  on  eacn 
fruit  spur,  excepting  the  two  uppermost,  which  are  left 
for  the  purpose  of  drawing  the  sap,  and  preventing  the 
base  buds  from  bursting. 

The  kind  of  mildew  which  is  sometimes  so  troublesome 
during  July  and  August,  to  late  crops,  seldom  shows 
itself  in  an  early  house  of  grapes.  But  there  is  another 
sort,  which  appears  as  a  delicate  white  mold  on  the  sur- 
face of  the  berries,  and  on  the  upper  side  of  the  leaves, 
and  this  is  more  prevalent  in  the  forcing  house  than  the 
cold  grapery.  It  is  most  to  be  apprehended  after  a  dry 
and  heated  atmosphere  has  been  maintained  for  some- 
time, as  for  instance,  immediately  after  "  blooming  time." 
This  disease  may  be  thoroughly  destroyed  by  syringing 
the  vines  with  water,  in  which  has  been  mixed  some  flour 
sulphur,  say  one  pound  to  twenty  gallons.  While  using, 
keep  the  sulphur  well  stirred,  for  it  is  upon  the  contact 
of  this  and  the  fumes  given  off  by  slow  combustion,  that 
the  remedy  depends. 

The  same  directions  that  were  given  last  month  for  the 
earliest  house,  will  now  be  applicable  to  the  second  early, 
and  need  not  be  repeated. 

THE    RETARDING   HOUSE. 

Let  all  the  doors  and  ventilators  be  open  until  the  buds 
begin  to  swell,  and  even  during  the  whole  month  when 
there  is  no  danger  of  frost ;  when  so,  the  house  may  be 
closed  at  night,  and  opened  again  early  in  the  morning. 
A  less  amount  of  moisture  is  required  for  this  than  for 
other  crops,  as  the  object  is  to  prevent  the  vines  from 
getting  into  brisk  action,  and  the  natural  atmosphere  is 
sufficiently  damp  for  the  present.  In  making  preparation 
for  a  house  of  this  kind,  it  is  best  to  have  the  bed  or  bor- 


CALENDAR  OF  OPERATIONS.         183 

der  for  the  roots  to  grow  in.  nearly  or  quite  raised  above 
the  ground  level,  which,  from  its  drier  capacity,  will  as- 
sist the  vines  more  fully  to  centralize  their  juices,  and 
somewhat  prevent  the  accumulation  of  too  much  crudo 
fluid  and  unripened  growth  in  the  fall. 


SI  AT. 

Now  that  the  severity  of  the  season  is  over,  we  may 
look  among  the  vines,  and  examine  the  effects  of  the  ex- 
treme cold  of  the  past  whiter.  There  will  be  instances, 
in  very  cold  latitudes,  where  the  vines  have  excusably 
suffered;  but,  in  the  majority  of  cases,  the  mischief  has 
occurred  through  an  over-damp  or  imperfectly  drained 
sub-soil.  Those  under  glass  may  be  injured  from  the 
6ame  cause,  and  from  over-rich,  deep  borders,  which 
tend  to  keep  the  canes  in  a  growing  state,  and  supplied 
with  too  much  fluid,  until  the  approach  of  winter,  leav- 
ing no  time  before  the  frost  sets  in  for  the  drying  up  or 
ripening  off  of  the  woody  fibre.  In  in-door  culture,  some 
protection  is  afforded  by  the  house,  even  though  no  fire- 
heat  has  been  applied  through  the  winter.  True,  we 
sometimes  see  examples  where  the  exotics  growing  in 
the  open  air  are  nearly  or  entirely  uninjured,  leading  us 
to  infer  that  no  covering  is  necessary.  In  the  grapery, 
however,  we  must  recollect  that  much  richer  beds  are 
prepared  for  the  roots,  and,  consequently,  a  large  growth 
is  produced,  which  requires  longer  time,  and  a  driei 
atmosphere  in  the  Fall,  to  evaporate  the  surplus  jui  jes 
:o  enable  the  vine  to  withstand  any  great  amount  of 
frost.  These  considerations  show  the  necessity  of  cover- 
ing the  vines  in  houses  where  fire-heat  is  not  used. 

I  have  spoken  thus  minutely  of  this,  as  many  practical 
cultivators  and  amateirs  would  like  a  house  of  exotic 


184  THE   GRAPE. 

grapes,  providing  they  can  succeed  with  them  without 
the  expense  and  trouble  of  artificial  heat.  Although 
Greheat  is  of  service,  temporarily,  there  is  no  actual  ne- 
cessity for  it,  as,  with  a  well-fitted  glass  arbor,  attention 
to  covering  in  the  winter,  and  not  hastening  the  vines 
into  growth  in  the  spring,  great  results  may  be  accom 
plished,  as  I  have  proved  during  the  last  ten  years. 

OUT-DOOR  CULTURE. 

In  the  vineyard,  and  out-door  culture  generally,  the 
vines  will  now  begin  to  show  their  fruit,  and  likewise 
the  most  suitable  branches  for  next  year's  bearing.  Con- 
tinue to  disbud,  or  rub  out,  all  that  are  superfluous. 
Those  which  are  fastened  to  stakes  will  require,  say  two 
of  the  best  lower  shoots  to  be  left.  A  sufficient  number 
should  be  retained  upon  trellises  to  fill  up  all  vacancies, 
or  furnish  branches  to  be  laid  in  at  the  distance  of  eight- 
een inches  apart,  as  fruiters  hereafter.  Nothing  dete- 
riorates the  quality  of  the  fruit,  or  renders  it  subject  te 
rot,  more  than  the  over-crowding  of  growing  wood 
during  the  summer.  Every  leaf  should  be  freely  exposed 
to  the  action  of  light,  which  cannot  be  the  case  when 
these  young  superfluous  branches  are  allowed  to  "  ride 
over  "  the  whole  surface  of  the  plant. 

COLD    GRAPERY. 

Some  care  is  still  necessary,  during  the  earlier  part  of 
the  month,  where  late  frosts  are  apprehended.  In  such, 
keep  the  house  cool  for  a  few  days,  but  do  not  neglect  a 
free  use  of  the  syringe  over  the  vines  every  mild  eve- 
ning. A  liberal  supply  of  water  should  be  sprinkled  over 
the  floor  of  the  house  in  the  morning,  to  maintain  a  moist 
and  genial,  but  not  over-stimulating  atmosphere,  which 
will  cause  the  buds  to  swell  and  burst  with  vigor.    When 


CALENDAR  OF  OPERATIONS.         185 

the  shoots  are  sufficiently  advanced  to  show  the  best 
ones  for  fruiting,  and  also  for  next  year's  wood,  all,  ex 
cepting  these,  may  be  rubbed  out.  It  is  best,  however, 
t'  leave  an  extra  one  on  each  spur,  in  case  of  accident, 
for,  when  fire-heat  is  not  used,  the  young  shoots  are  quite 
brittle,  and  sometimes  burst  out  before  a  sufficient 
amount  of  woody  fibre  is  formed  at  their  base  to  connect 
them  firmly  wTith  the  parent  branch.  For  the  same  rea 
son  they  ought  to  be  handled  very  carefully,  and  not  be 
drawn  down  to  the  wires  too  soon.  Towards  the  middle 
or  latter  part  of  the  month,  according  as  the  locality  is 
free  from  frosts,  the  house  should  be  kept  more  closely 
shut,  and  the  vines  allowed  to  commence  their  growth 
in  earnest.  Let  the  temperature  be  gradually  raised  a 
degree  or  two  each  day,  beginning  with  70°,  and  in- 
creasing to  85°  in  the  middle  of  the  day.  Do  not 
open  the  lower  ventilators,  as  the  cold  air  checks  the 
circulation  of  the  sap,  and  paralyzes  the  action  of  the  plants. 
Close  the  house  early  at  night,  use  water  freely  over- 
head, and  give  the  vines  every  chance  to  push  into  vig- 
orous growth.  The  outside  borders  should  also  be 
attended  to.  We  will  presume  that  a  mulching  of  manure 
was  applied  in  the  fall,  which  should  now  be  forked  over, 
leaving  the  soil  loose  and  open,  to  allow  the  air  and  sun 
to  act  upon  the  sub-soil,  thus  invigorating  the  roots. 
If  this  covering  of  manure  was  omitted,  apply  it  at  once, 
after  lightly  forking  over  the  border.  The  spring  raina 
will  carry  the  soluble  fertilizing  material  to  the  roots,  a* 
food  for  the  plants. 

THE   FORCING    HOUSE. 

The  earliest  crops  will  now  be  ripe,  and  the  second 
early  "stoning."  When  the  last  swell  of  the  fruit  com- 
mences, syringing  overhead  may  be  discontinued,  and 


186  THE    GRAPE. 

water  entirely  withheld  inside  of  the  house  as  the  coloi 
ing  progresses.  At  this  time,  a  grape-vine  wih5  be  main 
tained  in  a  healthy  state,  if  kept  very  dry.  We  are, 
however,  sometimes  compelled  to  apply  water,  to  pre- 
vent the  encroachment  of  insects;  but  when  this  becomes 
a  necessity,  the  water  should  never  come  in  contact  witJ 
the  fruit,  as  it  would  cause  some  kinds  to  burst  their 
skins,  and  all  would  be  injured  in  appearance  by  the 
"  bloom  "  being  washed  from  the  surface  of  the  berries. 
For  the  latter  reason,  the  bunches  should  not  be  touched 
with  the  ringers,  or  rubbed  in  any  way,  while  hanging 
on  the  vines.  As  the  side-shoots  continue  to  push  fresh 
growth,  the  tops  will  need  to  be  shortened-in  to  one  leaf 
above  the  former  pinching ;  but  in  young  canes  of  the 
present  season,  the  top  may  be  allowed  to  extend,  and 
the  laterals  shortened  to  one  leaf  as  they  continue  to 
increase.  The  later  successions  of  grapes  will  require 
the  same  treatment  which  was  recorded  for  this,  in  the 
last  two  months,  and  need  not  be  repeated  here. 

RETARDING    HOUSE. 

With  the  retarded  crop  the  temperature  maybe  main- 
tained as  low  as  possible  for  some  time  yet,  and  a  very 
small  quantity  of  water  used. 

JUNE. 

OUT-DOOR  CULTURE. 

The  vines  in  this  department  will  now  be  in  active 
progress.  As  the  shoots  elongate,  nip  out  the  tops  to 
three  or  four  leaves  above  the  fruit-bunches,  but  allow 
those  intended  for  next  year's  wood  to  extend  them- 
selves  for  the  present,  rubbing  off  all  that  are  super- 
fluous.    Now  is  the  time  to  save  much  after-labor  in 


CALENDAR  OF  OPERATIONS.         187 

Hummer-pruning,  and  prevent  injury  to  the  fruit ;  there* 
fore,  do  not  leave  more  branches  than  are  necessary  t<r 
lay  in,  eighteen  inches  apart,  on  the  trellis,  or  furnish 
two  or  three  for  the  stakes,  according  to  the  mode  of 
training.  A  reference  to  former  chapters  and  cuts  will 
ahow  what  is  here  meant.  Let  these  young  shoota 
acquire  some  woody  fibre  at  the  base  before  tying-in, 
i)lse  they  will  be  liable  to  break  off;  but  do  not  delay 
the  operation  longer  than  necessary.  Some  persons  use 
willow  twigs  and  rye  straw  for  this  purpose  ;  the  former, 
however,  are  troublesome,  and  the  latter  very  unsightly. 
Good  Russian  bast  will  always  be  found  more  conven- 
ient, much  neater,  and  quite  as  economical.  As  soon 
as  blossoming  is  past,  and  the  best  bunches  can  be  select- 
ed, cut  off  all  the  superfluous  and  inferior  ones.  A 
healthy  and  vigorous  cane  may  be  allowed  to  bear  one 
pound  of  grapes  to  each  foot  in  length ;  but  on  those  of 
weaker  growth  the  weight  should  be  correspondingly 
less,  if  good  quality  is  the  object.  Keep  a  sharp  look 
out  for  insects,  as  they  sometimes  do  much  mischief  at 
this  time.  There  are  several  kinds  of  beetles  and  cater 
pillars  which  eat  the  young  shoots,  and  likewise  the 
stalks  of  the  bunches.  These  should  be  destroyed  by 
hand-picking  early  in  the  morning,  when  they  are  slug- 
gish and  easily  caught.  There  is  also  a  species  of  Aphis, 
or  small  black  fly,  which  congregate  in  great  numbers 
on  the  young  growth,  and,  by  sucking  the  juices,  kill  the 
tops  of  the  shoots  if  they  are  not  destroyed.  Syringing 
with  whale-oil  soap  dissolved  in  hot  water,  and  after- 
wards diluted  to  the  proportions  of  one  pound  of  the 
soap  to  three  gallons  of  water,  will  be  effectual ;  or, 
the  next  best  substitute  is  common  soap-suds,  used  in  the 
name  way.  It  is  not  best  to  apply  these  materials  white 
the  blossoms  are  expanding,  but   attack  the  insects  bv 


188  THE   GRAPE. 

hand  before  they  become  numerous.  Loosen  the  soil 
with  the  hoe  or  plough,  to  destroy  weeds,  and  allow  the 
rains  to  penetrate.  The  cuttings  which  were  put  down 
in  March  will  alsc  be  benefited  by  the  same  process,  and 
if  drouth  should  occur,  a  good  soaking  of  water  will 
m.'ike  their  success  more  certain,  and  prevent  many  from 
J}  ing  out.  Now  is  a  good  time  to  propagate  by  layers. 
For  this  purpose,  bury  a  branch  of  last  year's  growth 
some  four  inches  deep,  leaving  the  young  lateral  shoots 
of  the  present  season  in  a  perpendicular  position,  having 
the  tops  above  ground.  Press  down  some  hooked  pegs, 
to  keep  the  branch  in  its  place,  and  cover  with  earth. 
»Vt  the  end  of  summer,  these  upright  branches  will  have 
an  abundance  of  roots,  and  may  be  divided  into  as  many 
individual  plants. 

COLD  GRAPERY. 

The  vines  in  this  house  will,  like  those  in  the  open  air, 
be  in  active  growth,  and  all  means  should  be  used  to 
encourage  their  development.  Syringe  over  the  whole 
every  evening,  if  the  weather  is  clear  and  dry,  but  not 
otherwise,  immediately  before  sundown,  closing  the  house 
at  the  same  time,  and  do  not  open  when  cloudy ;  be 
careful,  however,  to  ventilate  when  the  sun's  rays  burst 
suddenly  out.  The  great  object  is  to  maintain  an  even 
temperature,  or  rather  a  gradual  but  slow  rise  until  mid- 
day, a  steady  heat  till  evening,  and  a  corresponding  fall 
from  that  time  until  midnight.  The  thermometer  may 
be  allowed  to  ascend  to  85°  or  90°.  The  advice  as  to 
training,  fertilizings  <fcc.,  given  in  former  pages,  for  the 
forcing  house,  will  now  apply  to  this,  and  need  not  be 
repeated. 

FORCING  HOUSE. 

The  earliest  crop  will  now  be  mostly  used  up,  and  the 


CALENDAR  OF  OPERATIONS.         189 

next  beginning  to  color.  Water  overhead  ought  to  be 
discontinued  in  the  latter,  and  entirely  withheld  in  the 
former.  Keep  the  house  well  aired,  by  opening  both 
the  top  and  front  ventilators.  Let  the  airing  be  more  or 
less  abundant,  according  to  the  weather,  ventilating 
freely  when  clear  and  warm,  and  closing  the  house  when 
stormy  and  cool.  As  much  as  possible  maintain  a  free 
circulation  ;  for,  if  the  grapes  become  covered  with  con- 
densed  moisture  the  flavor  is  very  much  deteriorated, 
besides  being  liable  to  rot.  If  wasps  or  flies  become 
troublesome,  hang  up  vials  partially  filled  with  molasses 
and  honey  mixed  together,  or  some  sugar  dissolved  in 
water,  with  the  addition  of  a  small  portion  of  rum. 
Either  of  these  mixtures  will  entice  them  to  enter  the 
vessel,  and  both  will  destroy;  the  first  by  its  adhesive 
consistency,  and  the  second  by  its  stupifying  effects, 
causing  the  insects  to  fall  into  it,  where  they  are 
drowned. 


RETARDING  HOUSE. 

This  house  may  now  be  closed  in  the  evening,  and 
kept  cool  during  the  day,  which  may  be  accomplished 
by  lowering  the  top  ventilators  far  down.  Do  not  open 
the  front  windows  at  all  when  cloudy,  and  no  further 
at  any  time  than  is  actually  necessary  to  reduce  the  heat 
to  75  deg.  at  noon.  When  the  weather  is  settled  and 
dry,  an  occasional  syringing  in  the  evening  may  be  ap- 
plied, but  this  must  be  done  with  caution,  on  account  of 
the  liability  to  mildew ;  for  this  crop  is  more  commonly 
attacked  than  any  other.  This  affection  does  not  often 
appear  until  next  month,  and  will  be  fully  discussed  at 
that  time. 


190  THE  GRAPE, 


JULY, 


As  this  pest  to  the  grape-grower  commences  its  de 
Btructive  effects  with  the  first  damp  and  muggy  weather 
in  this  month,  and,  if  not  timely  checked,  will  ultimately 
destroy  the  hopes  of  the  cultivator,  the  subject  requires 
more  than  a  passing  notice,  and  at  the  risk  of  being 
thought  tedious,  we  again  repeat  an  explanation.  This 
intruder  is  a  fungoid  plant,  strictly  parasitical  in  its  na" 
ture,  requiring  a  living  organism  upon  which  to  com- 
mence developing.  It  is  also  entirely  dependent  upon  a 
peculiar  state  of  the  atmosphere,  otherwise  the  sporules 
or  minute  seeds  which  float  unperceived  in  the  air,  cannot 
vegetate.  The  first  indication  of  mildew  is  manifested  by 
brown  spots  on  the  leaves,  generally  along  the  mid-ribs 
and  larger  reticulations.  The  fleshy  parts,  so  far  as  affect- 
ed, are  soon  destroyed,  and  immediately  after  this,  the 
fungus  develops  its  fructifi cation  in  the  form  of  a  white  down 
on  the  under  side  of  the  leaf.  In  this  state  tho  spores 
are  ripe  for  future  growth  ;  and  so  quick  is  this  action, 
that  in  two  or  three  days  they  will  spread  over  a  great 
part  of  the  leaves  and  fruit,  causing  the  entire  vines  to  be 
irreparably  injured  for  the  season. 

Our  own  native  kinds,  such  as  Isabella,  &c,  having  a 
hardier  constitutional  power,  are  only  slightly,  and  some- 
times not  at  all  affected,  but  owing  to  our  extreme 
changes,  we  are  not  able  to  cultivate  the  exotics  in  the 
open  air  to  perfection,  except  in  the  best  sheltered  city 
yards.  After  many  years'  close  observation,  I  have  in- 
variably found  that  a  sudden  check  to  the  circulatory 
medium  of  plants  renders  not  only  the  gi  ape-vine,  bm 
most  other,  very  liable  to  be  infested  with  mildew,  while, 
if  a  healthy  and  vigorous  growth  be  maintained,  they  are 


CALENDAR  OF  OPERATIONS.         191 

comparatively  free.  For  this  reason,  it  is  advisable  to 
keep  the  doors  and  lower  ventilators  closed,  and  admit 
air  only  by  the  upper  openings  until  the  fruit  begins  to 
lose  its  acidity,  after  which  there  is  no  danger. 

The  antidotes  to  mildew  are  a  warm  and  dry  atmos- 
phere, and  sulphur.  Whenever  it  is  detected,  do  not  use 
any  water  inside  the  house  during  cloudy  or  damp 
weather,  and  sprinkle  sulphur  over  the  floor  in  the  pro- 
portion of  one  pound  to  each  fifteen  square  yards.  There 
is  no  occasion  to  throw  it  over  the  plants  inside  the  house, 
but  in  the  vineyards  or  out-doors,  it  will  be  requisite  to 
dust  it  in  an  upward  direction,  so  as  to  adhere  to  the 
under  side  of  the  leaves,  and  prevent  the  rains  from 
washing  it  off.  The  fumes  given  out  by  slow  combustion 
are  the  remedy,  and  care  should  be  taken  that  it  is  not 
ignited.  Mistakes  have  frequently  been  made  by  per- 
sons introducing  burning  sulphur  into  graperies  and 
plant-houses,  as  well  as  using  it  under  the  leaves  of  trees 
out-doors,  the  consequence  of  which  is,  a  total  destruction 
of  the  foliage,  if  not  death  to  the  plant. 

OUT-DOOB  CULTURE. 

Continue  to  keep  the  ground  clear  from  weeds,  using 
the  hoe  freely,  but  do  not  injure  the  roots.  Remember 
that  every  weed  draws  moisture  out  of  the  earth,  while 
every  stroke  of  the  hoe  enables  the  dews  to  penetrate. 
Wherever  it  is  possible,  a  good  mulching  of  barn-yard 
manure,  or  any  kind  of  vegetable  refuse  that  is  free  from 
weeds,  ought  to  be  spread  over  the  whole  surface,  which 
will  assist  in  keeping  the  soil  moist,  and  promote  the 
vigor  of  the  vines.  Do  not  let  the  growth  become 
crowded.  Nip  out  the  side  laterals  on  the  young  canes 
down  to  the  lowest  leaf  upon  each,  "and  the  new  growth 
of  the  fruit  spurs  in  the  same  way  to  where  last  stopped 


192  THE    GRAPE. 

Soap-suds  and  chamber-lye  are  of  great  benefit,  applied 
in  dry  weather,  when  the  vines  are  growing  freely. 
They  ought,  however,  to  be  diluted  with  one-half  water, 
particularly  the  former,  which  may  be  readily  done  by 
sinking  a  large  tub  in  the  ground  in  a  convenient  place, 
go  as  to  receive  the  liquid  as  it  is  made,  mixing  as  used. 
When  the  ground  is  very  wet,  do  not  add  more  moisture ; 
but,  generally  speaking,  at  this  season  there  is  a  want  of 
it,  and  when  it  is  applied,  pour  down  in  pailfuls  over  the 
surface  as  far  as  the  roots  extend,  but  not  against  the 
base  of  the  stem,  as  many  people  very  ignorantly  do. 
The  feeders  are  not  here ;  they  penetrate  to  a  considerable 
distance,  and  water  applied  to  the  stem  does  more  harm 
than  good,  sometimes  rotting  the  trunk. 

Never  take  off  any  leaves  from  the  branches  to  "let  in 
light  to  the  fruit,"  which  is  another  evil  practice.  The 
fruit  is  naturally  shaded  by  the  leaves,  and  so  situated,  it 
is  always  of  better  quality,  provided  there  is  a  free  circu- 
lation of  air  and  overcrowding  prevented,  which  may  be 
done  by  following  the  advice  above. 

COLD  GRAPERY. 

The  same  practice  of  stopping  the  laterals  and  ends  of 
the  shoots,  as  described  in  the  foregoing,  will  apply  here. 
Maintain  the  temperature  at  90°  to  95°  with  sunshine, 
and  graduate  as  advised  last  month.  Continue  to  syringe 
the  vines  overhead,  if  the  weather  be  dry  and  clear;  but 
if  mildew  make  its  appearance,  cease  to  use  any  water 
inside  the  house,  and  apply  the  sulphur  as  directed.  Do 
not  admit  any  more  external  air  than  is  necessary  to  re- 
duce the  heat,  and  be  careful  under  the  circumstances  to 
have  the  lower  ventilators  closed.  This  course,  if  adher- 
ed  to  strictly,  and  persevered  in  until  the  fruit  begins  to 
color,  will  most  assuredly  immediately  check,  and  finally 


CALENDAR  OF  OPERATIONS.         193 

entirely  destroy  the  mildew,  while  the  introduction  of 
any  preventive  in  a  liquid  state  is,  to  say  the  least,  of  a 
doubtful  utility ;  all  such,  which  I  have  known,  only  in- 
crease the  evil.  See  that  the  outside  borders  are  well 
mulched,  if  not  already  attended  to;  and  should  there  be 
drouth,  a  good  soaking  of  water,  in  which  is  dissolved 
one  pound  of  guano  to  thirty  gallons;  or,  still  better,  the 
diluted  drainings  of  a  dung-hill  will  be  of  material  ser- 
vice. As  the  berries  progress  in  size,  lose  no  time  in 
commencing  to  cut  out  the  superfluous  ones,  according 
to  previous  directions,  and  when  it  is  desired  to  retain 
them  upon  the  vines  after  becoming  ripe,  reduce  the 
quantity  of  berries  so  that  they  may  hang  loosely,  and 
the  air  be  enabled  to  circulate  through  the  bunches. 

FORCING-HOUSE. 

The  only  care  required  hereafter  in  this  department 
will  be  the  eradication  of  insects,  and  shortening-in  the 
extra  growth.  Let  the  house  remain  open  at  all  times, 
excepting  during  storms,  to  preserve  the  fruit,  and  pre- 
vent the  vines  from  pushing  a  second  growth,  which 
would  seriously  injure  them  for  another  season. 

RETARDING-HOUSE. 

The  same  treatment  recorded  for  the  Cold  Grapery 
last  month  will  now  apply  to  this,  excepting  that  the 
thermometer  may  range  some  five  degrees  lower  at  mid- 
day, and  great  care  should  be  exercised  in  using  water. 
If  mildew  shows  itself,  keep  the  house  dry,  apply  the 
sulphur,  and  employ  the  heating  apparatus  just  sufficient 
to  rarify  the  air.  Lift  the  upper  ventilators  at  the  same 
time  to  reuuce  the  temperature. 


194  THE   GRAPE 

AUGUST. 

OTJT-DOOB  CULTURE. 

Those  cultivators  who  have  taken  our  advice  witk 
regard  to  early  removal  of  superfluous  shoots,  and  shorten- 
ing-in  of  the  fruit  branches,  will  now  see  the  advantage 
in  the  promising  fruit,  and  the  thick  solid  texture  of  the 
leaves.  Were  this  more  generally  attended  to,  we 
should  not  hear  of  so  many  instances  of  decay  and 
felling  off  of  the  fruit,  or  so  much  respecting  the  defi- 
ciency in  ripening. 

Continue  to  keep  the  ground  free  from  weeds,  and 
when  the  hoe  only  is  used,  let  the  ground  be  deeply  and 
well  stirred. 

Notwithstanding  all  the  care  that  can  be  taken,  there 
may  occasionally  be  some  diseased  berries,  and  now  is 
the  time  to  remove  such  by  cutting  them  out  with  the 
scissors.  A  little  care  bestowed  in  this  way  will  more 
than  repay  the  labor.  It  can  be  done  with  little  expense, 
even  though  it  be  over  a  large  vineyard. 

COLD  GRAPERY. 

During  the  early  part  of  the  month  be  on  the  look-out 
for  mildew,  more  particularly  in  damp  or  foggy  weather. 
The  sporules  are  now  in  the  greatest  abundance,  and  will 
most  readily  germinate  under  favorable  circumstances. 
Counteract  the  liability  to  this  fungus  by  a  dry  atmos- 
phere, impregnated  with  the  fumes  of  sulphur  under  slow 
combustion,  which  the  warm  air  inside  the  house  will 
afford  during  a  fine  day.  When  the  grapes  begin  to 
color,  or  soften  to  the  touch,  there  is  very  little  further 
danger  from  this  pest,  but  water  should  be  discontinued 
overhead,  and  a  gradually  drier  air  maintained  in  the 
house.    It  is  possible  to  have   ripe  fruit  in  the  cold 


CALENDAR   OF   OPERATIONS.  195 

£i*pery  on  the  first  of  the  month  from  the  earliest 
varieties,  but  this  is  not  usually  accomplished  until  the 
middle  or  latter  part  of  the  month.  As  the  ripening 
progresses  omit  the  use  of  water  entirely,  and  give  more 
air,  gradually  opening  the  lower  ventilators  if  the  weather 
is  favorable.  The  object  now  is  to  insure  a  continued 
steady  action  in  the  circulating  medium,  and  prevent 
sudden  checks,  which  would  arrest  the  chemical  changes 
going  on  at  this  critical  period,  and  injure  both  the 
coloring  property  and  the  flavor  of  the  berries.  When 
the  fruit  is  nearly  ripe  the  upper  ventilators  may  be  left 
open  at  all  times,  but  it  is  well  to  close  the  lower  ones  at 
night  to  keep  out  mice  and  currents  of  damp  air. 

FORCING  HOUSE. 

In  this  house  as  much  air  should  be  admitted  as  pos- 
sible. All  the  doors  and  movable  windows  may  be 
constantly  open,  except  during  windy  or  stormy  weather, 
and  then  they  ought  to  be  only  so  far  closed  as  to  ins- in 
safety  to  the  house.  Were  it  not  that  our  glass  roofs  are 
somewhat  permanently  fixed,  it  would  be  better  w  len 
the  grapes  are  all  cut,  to  take  off  the  glasses  and  leave 
the  vines  entirely  exposed,  as  the  rains  would  wash  ou« 
many  insects,  and  the  birds  assist  in  destroying  the  re 
mainder,  which  would,  in  many  instances,  save  much 
labor  in  artificial  cleaning  without  injury  to  the  vines, 
as  the  wood  is  now,  or  ought  to  be,  pretty  well  ripened. 

RETARDING  HOUSE. 

The  operations  of  last  month  in  the  cold  grapery  will 
now  apply  here,  with  the  exception  oi  maintaining  a 
temperature  some  5°  lower  than  there  recommended, 
and  using  a  comparatively  less  quantity  of  water.  Un- 
less Mie  weather  prove  very  dry,  it  v\  best  not  to  use  any 


196  THE  GRAPE. 

water  at  all  inside  the  house,  more  particularly  if  mildew 
makes  its  appearance. 

SEPTE  KIBER, 

OUR-DOOR  CULTURE. 

There  is  not  much  to  do  in  this  department  at  present, 
further  than  keeping  the  continually  extending  growth 
in  check  by  pinching  out  the  ends  of  the  shoots,  and  the 
ground  free  from  weeds  as  previously  advised.  In  some 
localities  the  fruit  will  be  ripening,  and  a  word  of  caution 
may  be  of  service  with  respect  to  gathering  the  bunches. 
Grapes  are  never  in  their  best  state,  either  for  present 
use  or  late  keeping,  until  they  have  hung  some  time  after 
they  appear  ripe.  The  flavor  is  thereby  v^ry  much  im- 
proved, and  the  acid  in  a  great  measure  removed. 
Never  gather  a  bunch  of  grapes  until  a  portion  of  the 
stalk  nearest  to  the  bunch  is  quite  brown  and  partially 
shrivelled,  which  is  a  sure  indication  that  nature  has 
perfected  the  fruit.  After  this  there  is  nothing  to  be 
gained  in  quality  by  leaving  them  longer,  but  for  winter 
keeping  it  is  advisable  to  let  them  remain  on  the  vine 
until  they  begin  to  shrivel  and  fall. 

COLD   GRAPERY. 

It  is  expected  that  all  the  fruit  is  ripe  excepting  the 
very  latest  varieties.  Leave  .the  house  open  at  all  times, 
closing  the  ventilators  only  sufficient  to  prevent  the  grapes 
from  being  spoiled  during  rains.  Maintain  a  dry  atmos- 
phere, withholding  water  the  remainder  of  the  season. 
Stop  superfluous  growth,  as  before  advised,  and  see  to 
general  cleanliness. 

FORCING  HOUSE. 

Keep  this  house  as  open  as  possible,  and  be  careful  not 
to  let  it  become  unduly  heated.    Do  not  use  any  water 


CALENDAR   OF   OPERATIONS.  197 

farther  than  is  necessary  to  prevei.t  the  increase  of 
insects.  An  occasional  watering  with  a  syringe  or  force 
pump,  will  not  only  preserve  the  leaves  in  a  healthy 
state  for  the  remainder  of  the  season,  but  considerably 
assist  in  keeping  the  vines  clear  of  insects  by  dislodging 
them  from  the  corners  and  crevices.  This  will  prevent 
their  increase,  and  obviate  the  necessity  of  using  those 
strong  washes  which  some  persons  consider  indispensable, 
and  whichj  from  their  caustic  nature,  frequently  injure  the 
cellular  organs  of  the  vines.  Do  not  remove  anymore 
of  the  young  growth  than  is  necessary  to  give  free  light 
to  the  main  leaves  attached  alternately  on  the  ripened 
shoots,  as  too  close  cutting  at  this  time  "has  a  tendency 
to  burst  the  buds  which  are  intended  to  remain  dormant 
until  the  next  forcing  period. 

RETARDING  HOUSE. 

The  same  directions  as  for  Cold  Grapery  will  also 
apply  here  at  present. 

OCTOBER. 

The  Reservation  of  grapes  beyond  the  usual  period  of 
ripening  is  a  great  desideratum,  and  deserves  something 
more  than  a  passing  notice.  Dryness  is  indispensable  for 
this  purpose.  We  know  that  imported  raisins  are  grapes, 
which  have  had  the  watery  portions  evaporated  by  a 
warm,  dry  atmosphere,  leaving  the  sugary  matter  and  a 
part  of  the  aroma.  If  after  the  maturity  of  the  fruit,  our 
own  climate  was  as  dry  and  warm  as  that  of  southern 
Spain,  there  would  be  no  difficulty  in  keeping  the  fruit, 
for  we  could  let  the  clusters  hang  on  the  vines,  and  gather 
them  as  wanted.  As  we  have  not  their  natural  advantage 
in  this  respect,  we  must  imitate  their  climate  as  near  as 
we  can. 


198  THE    GRAPE. 

There  is  a  great  difference  in  the  keeping  properties 
of  many  of  the  varieties.  For  instance,  the  Frontignans^ 
Muscats,  and  several  of  the  Chasselas,  though  early  soils, 
will  dry  up  and  shrink  so  much  that  they  become  partially 
raisined,  and  in  such  state  will  not  decay,  providing  they 
are  kept  in  a  dry  atmosphere,  free  from  frost  and  sus- 
pended upside  down,  so  that  the  berries  hang  loosely. 
There  are  others  that  have  a  solid  texture,  approaching 
that  of  an  apple,  as  Heine  de  Nice,  White  Lisbon,  <fec, 
which,  by  having  the  bunches  cut  into  small  parts  and 
laid  upon  a  shelf  in  a  good  fruit  room,  wrapped  with  cot- 
ton wadding,  will  keep  for  several  months,  while  the 
Hamburgs,  and  other  tender-skinned  sorts,  soon  decay 
after  they  are  fully  ripe,  and  no  means  has  been  devised 
to  keep  them  for  a  length  of  time. 

Grapes,  both  foreign  and  domestic  varieties,  may  be 
kept  a  long  time  by  choosing  perfectly  ripe  bunches,  and. 
if  large,  cut  them  into  small  parts,  removing  any  decayed 
berries,  and  sear  the  end  of  each  stalk  where  cut,  with  a 
red-hot  iron,  exposing  them  afterwards  in  a  very  dry 
room  for  three  days.  Have  in  readiness  some  soft  tissue 
paper,  and  wheat  bran  that  has  been  well  dried  by  fire 
heat.  Wrap  each  small  cluster  in  a  piece  of  the  paper, 
place  in  a  glass  jar,  and  fill  in  between  with  a  small  por- 
tion of  the  bran,  and  so  proceed  till  the  jar  is  filled,  each 
cluster  of  fruit  being  surrounded  and  covered  with  the 
bran.  Place  a  paper  over  the  top,  and  stretch  a  piece  of 
bladder  over  this  to  exclude  the  air.  Let  the  jars  be 
stored  in  a  dry,  cool  room,  where  the  temperature  is  \  ept 
at  40°  to  45°,  and  use  each  jar  as  may  be  required. 
Glazed  earthenware,  or  air-tight  boxes,  will  answer  as  a 
substitute  where  glass  jars  cannot  be  had,  always  keeping 
in  a  dry  atmosphere.  I  may  add,  in  connection  with  this 
lubject,  another  method.     Last  April,  Mr.  Cole,  a  neigh- 


CALENDAR   OF   OPERATIONS.  LW 

Dor  of  mine,  brought  me  a  beautiful  bunch  of  Isabella 
grapes,  as  fresh  and  plump  as  when  first  cut  from  the 
vine.  This  had  been  kept  with  others  in  a  glazed  earth- 
enware jar,  which  was  buried  two  and  one-half  feet  deep 
in  his  garden.  The  flavor  was  somewhat  deteriorated! 
b:it  the  experiment  is  well  worth  repeating. 

OUT-DOOR  CULTURE. 

Continue  to  gather  fruit,  and  see  the  last  month's  ad- 
vice. 

COLD  GRAPERY. 

No  water  must  be  used  inside  the  grapery,  and  a  free 
circulation  of  air  be  maintained,  so  as  to  prevent  any 
condensation  of  moisture  upon  the  fruit.  During  damp 
or  rainy  weather  the  upper  ventilators  may  be  partially 
left  open,  which  will  have  a  beneficial  influence,  preserv- 
ing the  texture  of  the  skins,  and  preventing  moldiness. 
If  this  is  attended  to  in  a  house  where  there  is  no  artifi- 
cial heat,  the  fruit  may  be  preserved  on  the  vines  until  a 
severe  frost  is  apprehended. 

FORCING  HOUSE. 

Follow  the  same  direction  as  last  month. 

RETARDING    HOUSE. 

In  the  retarding  house,  where  the  berries  are  now  col- 
oring, the  bunches  of  some  kinds  may  be  preserved  until 
late  in  March  by  simply  keeping  out  the  frost  by  nre 
heat,  and  giving  air  at  all  favorable  opportunities  through 
the  winter. 

NOVEMBER. 

Most  of  our  labors  for  the  present  season  are  now  fin- 
ished, and  according  to  good  or  bad  management  so  have 


200  THE   GRAPE. 

been  the  results.  In  consequence  of  a  wet  and  cold  sea, 
son,  the  wood  of  all  out-door  grape-vines,  and  ilso  that 
in  most  cold  graperies  may  not  be  thoroughly  ripened, 
which  renders  it  necessary  to  assist  by  artificial  means  to 
make  up  the  deficiency.  This  in  out-door  culture,  may 
be  done  by  removing  the  superfluous  shoots,  thus  allow 
Ing  the  sun  to  act  upon  the  branches,  and  further  concen 
trate  or  ripen  the  juices,  thus  reducing  the  quantity  oi 
aqueous  matter  contained  in  the  vine.  Do  not,  however, 
injure  the  leaves  on  the  remaining  branches,  as  respira- 
tion would  be  checked,  and  the  object  intended  to  be 
gained  prevented.  It  is  advisable  to  follow  up  the  same 
course  with  late  crops  under  glass,  and,  in  addition,  to 
deviate  a  trifle  from  general  practice  by  keeping  the 
house  a  little  warmer  than  usual.  This  may  be  accom- 
plished by  keeping  the  lower  ventilators  closed,  by 
which  a  higher  temperature  will  be  maintained  near  the 
bottom  of  the  house.  A  free  circulation,  quite  sufficient 
for  all  purposes,  may  be  admitted  by  the  upper  openings. 
A  genial  and  dry  atmosphere  will  thus  be  secured,  which 
will  enable  the  vines  to  complete  the  ripening  process 
without  check,  and  if  the  house  be  entirely  closed  at 
night  when  there  is  danger  of  frost,  the  leaves  will  be 
kept  in  a  growing  state  for  a  longer  time.  Never  let  a 
grape-vine  leaf  be  injured  by  extreme  cold  before  it  is 
mature,  if  it  is  possible  to  avoid  it.  So  long  as  it  remains 
green,  it  is  doing  service  to  the  vine.  In  a  healthy  plant 
of  any  kind,  when  nature  has  accomplished  her  purpose, 
she  will  cast  off*  the  useless  parts,  and  any  interference  in 
this  particular  leads  to  injurious  effects. 

OUT-DOOH  CULTURE. 

Where  new  plantings  are  intended,  the  early  part  of 
this  month  is  the  best  time  for  making  preparations,  as 


CALENDAR  OF  OPERATIONS.         201 

the  needful  operations  can  now  be  executed  much  bettef 
while  the  ground  is  in  good  working  order,  and  net  satu- 
rated with  water.  For  the  vineyard,  drain  if  necessary, 
plough  a  deep  furrow,  and  follow  with  the  subsoil  plough ; 
or  when  only  of  small  extent,  trench  two  spits  deep. 
Nothing  will  be  lost  by  the  extra  labor.  If  the  soil  be 
not  naturally  very  fertile,  add  a  good  dressing  of  barn- 
yard manure,  or  an  abundance  of  rotten  leaves. 

Those  who  only  wish  to  plant  a  few  hardy  vines,  and 
have  their  land  in  a  good  state  for  the  purpose,  may  do 
so  at  the  commencement  of  this  month.  It  is  not  advisa- 
ble to  defer  it  later  in  the  season.  The  best  choice  of 
plants  is  generally  to  be  obtained  in  the  nurseries  at  this 
time,  which  is  an  object.  If  removed  early  enough,  and 
the  roots  are  kept  moist  until  they  are  again  planted, 
they  will  be  in  a  good  condition  for  a  vigorous  start  in 
the  Spring. 

COLD  GRAPERY. 

The  Cold  Grapery  will  require  to  be  as  dry  as  possible ; 
keep  the  ventilators  continually  open,  partially  close  in 
damp  or  rainy  weather,  but  maintain  a  free  circulation  of 
fresh  air.  If  frost  be  expected,  shut  up  close  at  night, 
remove  all  decaying  berries,  and  see  to  general  oleanli 


FORCING   HOUSE. 

The  wood  in  the  forcing  house  ought  now  to  be  tho- 
roughly ripened,  with  no  leaves  remaining,  which  is  a 
seasonable  time  to  prune.  After  pruning,  remove  all  the 
loose  bark,  and  clean  well  around  the  bases  of  the  spurs  to 
prevent  insects  lodging  therein.  Wash  the  vines  with 
the  preparation  advised  on  page  65,  taking  care  not  to 
injure  the  buds.  Keep  the  house  as  cool  as  possible,  and 
let  the  vines  rest  so  until  the  time  to  commence  forcing, 


202  THE    GRAPE. 

which  will  be  according  as  early  or  later  grapes  are  want- 
ed. To  obtain  ripe  fruit  by  the  middle  of  April,  com* 
mence  at  once,  and  if  in  May,  it  will  be  required  to  begin 
by  the  middle  of  December,  and  later  in  proportion.  [See 
page  84.)  Such  extreme  artificial  culture  should  not  be 
attempted  by  the  novice,  however,  as  it  requires  con- 
siderable experience,  and  is  attended  with  much  care  and 
expense. 

RETARDING  HOUSE. 

In  the  retarding  house,  where  there  is  a  heating  ap- 
paratus, a  gentle  fire  should  be  applied,  if  frost  in  the 
night  be  apprehended,  but  admit  air  freely,  excluding 
any  moisture. 

DECEMBER. 

OUT-DOOR     CULTURE. 

Excepting  in  the  most  northern  or  north-western  parts 
of  the  country,  the  pruning  of  the  hardy  kinds  of  out- 
door grapes  may  be  proceeded  with.  It  ought  not,  how- 
ever, to  be  done  during  severe  frost.  Where  the  land 
will  still  admit  of  being  worked,  the  upper  soil  should  be 
loosened  with  the  fork,  some  four  or  five  inches  deep, 
over  the  whole  surface;  after  which  a  mulching  of  de- 
cayed leaves,  vegetable  refuse,  or  barn-yard  manure,  will 
more  than  repay  the  cost.  On  a  large  scale  this  might 
seem  tedious,  but  it  does  not  alter  the  case  ;  for  if  good 
attention  and  the  best  culture  will  pay  on  a  small  scale, 
Lhey  will  be  found  equally  remunerative  in  extensive 
culture.  Depend  upon  it,  one  of  the  main  secrets  of 
making  grape-culture  pay,  in  all  the  varied  departments, 
is  in  enabling  each  vine  to  do  its  best.  Never  attempt 
more  than  you  have  capital,  convenience  and  energy  to 
carry  out. 


CALENDAR  OF  OPERATIONS.         203 

COLD  GRAPERY. 

If  the  vines  in  the  Cold  Grapery  have  not  been  pruned, 
do  it  at  once,  after  which  clean  and  wash  with  the  mix- 
ture recommended  on  page  65.  After  this  operation, 
prepare  for  covering,  by  bringing  the  vines  clown  to  a 
horizontal  position  along  the  line  of  planting.  Tie  the 
cane  loosely  to  the  nearest  wire,  about  two  or  three  feet 
from  the  ground  level,  so  that  when  the  head  is  brought 
down,  this  lower  portion  will  remain  in  a  nearly  perpen- 
dicular position.  Next  draw  the  upper  portion  down  to 
a  level,  and  tie  it  to  the  wires  or  stakes  in  a  horizontal 
position.  Lay  the  next  in  like  manner  alongside  the 
first,  and  so  on,  until  near  the  other  end  of  the  house, 
where  some  three  or  four  canes  will  hive  to  be  reversed. 
They  are  now  ready  for  the  covering.  This  for  young 
plants  need  be  only  a  three-inch  coating  of  straw  tied 
around  with  twine ;  but  for  older  vines,  that  have  got 
spurs  on,  it  is  more  convenient  to  use  Jong  boxes,  made 
deep  enough,  and  nailed  together  without  a  top.  These 
inverted  over  the  rows,  make  a  neat  covering.  The 
effectual  method,  however,  is  to  fix  boards  along  the 
front  of  the  vines,  and  close  to  them.  FilJ  in  the  spaco 
thus  formed  along  the  front  of  the  house  wivh  dr"  tree- 
leaves.  The  vines  are  thus  enveloped  in  a  good  pen- 
conducting  material  that  will  maintain  a  low  yet  even 
temperature  through  the  winter.  It  is  difficult  to  con- 
vince some  persons  that  these  exovics  require  such  effect- 
ual protection,  but  the  extreme  cold  of  the  last  few  win. 
ters  has  in  part  convinced  them  of  its  necessity.  Through- 
out the  winter  let  the  houses  be  k*pt  cool,  by  opening 
the  ventilators  every  clear  day,  and  close  up  at  iiig,L„,  u* 
at  all  times  when  the  weather  \g  cloudy,  and  during 
severe  frosts. 


204  THE   GRAPE. 

FORCING  HOUSE. 

The  directions  for  last  month,  and  a  reference  tu  Fa$« 
84,  will  apply  for  this  month. 

RETARDING    HOUSE. 

In  the  Retarding  House,  where  tne  grapes  are  only 
ripe,  maintain  a  dry  but  cool  atmosphere,  and  keep  out 
frost  by  slow  fires.  Let  the  thermometer  range  from 
45°  to  50°  at  night,  and  52°  to  60°  with  sunshine. 

Young  vines  propagated  and  grown  in  pots  the  pres- 
ent year  may  be  plunged  to  the  rims  in  a  box  frame. 
Fill  in  over  the  heads  with  leaves  or  straw,  and  place 
shutter  or  glass  sashes  on  the  top.  They  may  also  be 
preserved  inside  a  Cold  Grapery,  or  shed.  The  hardy 
kinds,  too,  that  have  not  ripened  well,  and  are  intended 
for  replanting  next  spring,  will  be  benefited  by  lifting 
and  heeling-in  close  together  in  a  trench,  covering  the 
tops  with  earth,  or  a  thick  layer  of  evergreen  bought 
Straw  out  of  doors  becomes  saturated  with  the  winmrti 
rains,  and  is  worse  than  useless. 


CHAPTER    XVI. 

SUPPLEMENTAL     LIST     OF 
EXOTIC      OK,  A  PES. 

In  preparing  a  list  of  the  newer  varieties  of  exotic 
grapes,  the  ohject  has  not  been  to  enumerate  all  that 
have  been  produced  since  the  former  edition,  but  to  give 
only  such  as  have  met  with  general  acceptance  by  the 
grape-growers  of  both  sides  of  the  Atlantic.  Moreover 
it  only  includes  those  varieties  that  have  entered  into 
commerce  and  may  be  procured  of  the  principal  dealers 
in  foreign  vines. 

It  is  said  that  of  every  hundred  pear-trees  planted  in 
this  country,  ninety  are  of  the  Bartlett  variety.  The 
Black  Hamburgh  holds  about  the  same  position  among 
exotic  grapes  that  the  Bartlett  does  among  pears. 

When  this  work  was  originally  written,  the  Black 
Hamburgh  stood  at  the  head  of  the  list,  and  in  every 
selection  of  ten  or  five  varieties  for  the  "Cold  Grapery," 
the  "Foreign  House,"  the  "Retarding  House,"  or  for 
"Pot  Culture,"  the  Black  Hamburgh  occupied  a  promi- 
nent place.  Were  similar  selections  to  be  made  now, 
this  most  useful  variety  would  occupy  the  same  positions. 
As  there  are  many  better  pears  than  the  Bartlett,  so 
there  are  better  grapes  than  the  Black  Hamburgh.  In- 
deed nearly  every  new  variety  may  be  its  superior  in  some 
one  particular;  but  when  we  consider  all  the  elements 
which  go  to  the  making  up  of  a  reliable,  popular  fruit, 
we  find  that  none  can  claim  the  place  so  long  and  so 
worthily  held  by  this  excellent  variety. 

As  the  culture  of  out-door  grapes  is  only  incidentally 
mentioned  in  the  original  work,  its  purpose  being  to 
(205) 


206  THE   GRAPE. 

instruct  in  the  cultivation  of  grapes  under  glass,  no 
attempt  has  been  made  to  bring  the  list  of  hardy  varieties 
up  to  the  present  time. 

BLACK  OR  PURPLE  GRAPES. 

Black  Barbarossa. — As  suggested  on  page  107,  this 
is  the  same  as  Prince  Albert.  It  is  highly  valued  as  a 
late  variety,  and  now  more  generally  bears  the  name  here 
given. 

Early  Black  Bordeaux. — Bunches  of  medium  size, 
shouldered.  Berries  round,  above  medium  size,  black, 
with  a  thin  bloom.  Flesh  tender,  rich,  and  sweet.  Ee- 
garded  as  one  of  the  finest  early  purple  varieties. 

Finti^do. — A  vigorous  vine,  of  Italian  origin.  Bunch 
large,  compact,  and  shouldered.  Berries  slightly  oval, 
dark  violet.  Flesh  very  sugary,  with  a  pleasant  aroma. 
Kesembles  Black  Hamburgh,  but  considerably  earlier. 

GrROS  Maroc. — Vine  a  great  bearer,  and  well  suited  to 
a  cold  vinery.  Bunch  very  large,  long,  shouldered. 
Berries  oval,  very  large,  deep  reddish-purple,  with  a 
thick  bloom.  Flesh  tender,  sweet,  and  rich.  Eipens 
after  Black  Hamburgh.  A  valuable  market  grape  on  ac- 
count of  its  showy  character. 

Jura  Muscat. — Vine  very  prolific.  Bunch  long, 
tapering.  Berries  above  medium,  oval,  well  set,  purplish 
black,  with  a  thin  bloom.  Flesh  tender,  rich,  with  a  fine 
Muscat  aroma. 

Lady  Dow^e  (syn.  Lady  Dowries  Seedling). — The  vine 
breaks  late,  and  the  fruit  keeps  later  than  any  other.  In 
England  it  has  been  kept,  by  placing  the  stem  in  a  bottle 
of  water,  from  August  until  June.  Bunch  large,  rather 
loose.  Berries  roundish-oval,  above  medium  size,  with 
thick  skin,  reddish  purple,  becoming  black,  with  deli- 
cate bloom.     Flesh  dull- white,  firm,  sweet,  and  rich. 


SUPPLEMENTAL   LIST   OF   EXOTIC   GRAPES.  207 

Madresfield  Court. — A  comparatively  recent  vari- 
ety, highly  commended,  with  large  berries,  with  a  rich 
Muscat  flavor.    A  popular  early  market  grape  in  London. 

Muscat  Hamburgh. — Much  resembles  the  Black 
Hamburgh  in  size  and  appearance,  j)ossessing,  in  a 
marked  degree,  the  peculiar  flavor  of  the  Muscat  of  Alex- 
andria.    A  favorite  wherever  known. 

Mrs.  Pince's  Black  Muscat. — Bunch  large,  shoul- 
dered. Berries  oval.  Flesh  firm  and  crisp,  with  a  Mus- 
cat flavor.  A  favorite  variety  in  England,  on  account  of 
its  keeping  qualities. 

Trentham  Black. — Vine  a  great  bearer,  and  well 
suited  to  the  cold  vinery.  Bunch  large,  tapering,  and 
shouldered.  Berries  large,  oval.  Flesh  juicy,  very 
rich,  and  vinous.  Ripens  with  Black  Hamburgh,  but  re- 
mains plump  long  after  that  variety  has  shrivelled.  A 
well-known  English  horticulturist  ranks  this  as  the  best 
of  black  grapes. 

WHITE    AND    AMBER-COLORED    GRAPES. 

Bowood  Muscat. — This  variety  was  merely  mentioned 
on  p.  112  as  a  new  grape  "  which  promises  to  be  very  fine." 
It  has  quite  fulfilled  its  early  promise  and  ranks  among  the 
best  white  grapes,  setting  and  ripening  well  in  the  cold 
vinery.  Hunch  very  large,  well  shouldered.  Berries  large, 
becoming  a  bright  amber  color  when  ripe,  with  a  sugary 
Muscat  flavor. 

Golden  Champion. — Regarded  of  as  free  growth  and 
as  easy  culture  as  the  Black  Hamburgh.  Bunch  and 
berry  both  very  large.  Flesh  firm,  yet  remarkably  tender 
and  juicy.     Very  rich. 

Golden  Hamburgh. — This  had  a  mere  mention  on 
page  112.     It  is  a  large  grape,  of  excellent  quality,  with  a 


208  THE   GRAPE. 

rich  yellow  color  when  ripe.  It  has  the  fault  of  decaying 
soon  after  it  is  fully  mature. 

Muscat  St.  Laurent. — Vine  as  hardy  as  the  White 
Sweetwater.  Berries  oval,  small,  very  juicy,  with  a  high 
Muscat  flavor.  Valued  as  one  of  the  earliest  white 
grapes. 

Pitmaston  White  Cluster. — A  seedling  of  the  Black 
Cluster,  and  often  succeeds  in  the  open  air.  Bunch 
medium  size,  compact,  shouldered.  Berries  medium, 
round,  amber-color,  often  tinged  with  russet  wrhen  fully 
ripe.     Early. 

Prim  A  vis  Frontignan. — Bunch  very  large.  Berries 
large,  round,  amber-colored,  rich,  juicy,  and  excellent. 
An  early  variety  that  sets  well  and  is  productive.  Ee- 
garded  as  the  best  of  the  Muscat  Chasselas  race. 

Tottenham  Park  Muscat,  should  be  added  to  the 
synonyms  of  Muscat  of  Alexandria. 

Trebbiano. — To  succeed  well,  the  vine  requires  a 
rather  high  temperature  during  the  autumn  months, 
when  it  is  a  good  late  variety  and  hangs  well.  Bunch 
very  large,  broad,  shouldered.  Berries  medium  to  large, 
roundish-oval,  with  thick  skin.  Flesh  firm,  crisp,  sweet, 
and  rich. 

White  Sweetwater. — This,  the  best  known  of  all 
the  exotic  grapes,  was,  through  inadvertence,  omitted 
from  the  original  list  of  varieties.  It  is  inferior  to  the 
Royal  Muscadine,  but  ripens  about  two  weeks  earlier,  a 
matter  of  much  importance  when  planted  in  the  open 
air,  as  is  frequently  done  with  this  variety,  and  some- 
times with  fair  success.  Bunch  of  good  size,  but  often 
very  loose.  Berries  medium,  round,  skin  thin,  clear 
green,  becoming  amber  when  fully  exposed  to  the  sun. 
Flesh  crisp,  watery,  sweet,  not  high  flavored. 


CHAPTEE    XVII. 

H^RIDY    NATIVE    ORAF»ES. 

When  this  work  was  first  published,  the  hardy  native 
grapes  then  in  cultivation  were  the  Catawba,  Isabella, 
Diana,  Delaware  and  the  Hartford  Prolific,  with,  per- 
haps, a  few  others,  while  the  Concord  was  advised  for 
further  trial.  The  lists  of  the  present  day  include 
varieties  by  the  hundred,  and  thousands  of  acres  are  de- 
voted to  raising  grapes  to  meet  the  popular  demand. 
Nothing  in  the  history  of  our  horticulture  has  been  more 
striking  than  the  development  of  the  hardy  native  grape. 
Each  year  has  produced  new  varieties,  and  the  extended 
lists  how  include  excellent  kinds  suited  to  a  great  variety 
of  soils  and  climate.  In  view  of  so  many  kinds,  the  in- 
experienced novice  who  would  plant  grape  vines  may 
well  be  puzzled  in  his  selection,  and  to  aid  such  we  give 
a  select  list,  which  may  assist  him  in  making  a  choice  : 

Agawam. — A  robust  vine  ;  fruit  medium  early,  large 
in  bunch  and  berry,  brownish  ;  quality  very  good,  but  too 
sweet  for  many  persons.     An  excellent  family  grape. 

Brighton. — Medium  early;  color  of  Catawba;  very 
prolific  and  excellent. 

Catawba. — In  certain  localities  this  pioneer  variety 
still  succeeds,  and  where  it  does  nothing  better  is  sought 
for.  Its  excellent  keeping  qualities  make  it  one  of  the 
most  profitable. 

Coxcord.— -Medium  size  ;  black,  with  a  fine  bloom  ; 

skin   very  tender,   and  cracks  readily  ;    a  poor  keeper. 

Though  not  of  first  quality,  the  readiness  with  which  it 

adapts  itself  to  soils  and  localities  has  made  it  the  most 

(209) 


210  THE   GRAPE. 

popular  native  variety  in  cultivation.     Vast  quantities 
are  grown  for  market. 

Creveling. — Nearly  black,  of  medium  size ;  rarely 
makes  a  well-filled  bunch,  but  its  earliness  and  excellent 
quality  make  it  one  of  the  best  family  varieties. 

Delaware. — Perhaps  the  next  in  popularity  to  the 
Concord.  Its  small  amber  colored  berries,  in  small, 
compact  clusters,  are  intensely  sweet,  and  it  being  a  fair 
keeper,  it  is  largely  grown  for  market.     One  of  the  best. 

Elvira. — A  fine  white  grape,  of  good  size  in  bunch 
and  berry.  Popular  at  the  West,  but  not  commended 
for  Eastern  localities. 

Empire  State. — One  of  the  new  white  grapes,  not 
yet  generally  tested.  The  praises  of  the  few  who  have 
tried  it  give  one  high  hopes  of  its  excellence. 

Eumelan. — An  early  black  variety,  with  berry  and 
bunch  of  medium  size  ;  quality  among  the  best.  An  ex- 
cellent family  variety, 

Highland. — One  of  Mr.  Ricketts'  hybrids  ;  a  very 
large,  showy,  black  variety,  whicb  appears  to  be  worthy 
of  extended  trial. 

Iona. — After  the  style  oft  the  Catawba,  and  when  in 
perfection,  the  best  of  all  native  grapes.  Unfortunately, 
it  succeeds  in  but  few  localities,  save  as  an  experiment. 

Ives. — An  Isabella-like  black  grape,  grown  extensively 
in  the  West  as  a  wine  grape,  and  there  noted  for  hardi- 
ness and  freedom  from  disease.  An  utter  failure  near 
New  York,  where  better  grapes  succeed. 

Lady  Washington. — A  hybrid  by  Mr.  Eicketts  ; 
white,  with  a  fiue  bloom,  of  great  beauty  of  cluster,  and 
high  quality.     Worthy  of  trial. 

Lindley. — A  large,  robust,  early  variety,  of  dark 
brown  color  ;  intensely  sweet.     A  good  family  variety. 


HARDY   NATIVE   GRAPES.  211 

Martha.— A  seedling  of  the  Concord,  and,  on  account 
of  its  white  color,  much  planted.     Quality  inferior. 

Niagara.— A  showy  white  grape,  of  fair  quality, 
which  promises  to  be  one  of  the  most  valuable  of  recent 
introductions,  and  one  of  the  most  profitable  for  market. 

Wilder.— A  large  black  berry,  with  all  the  good 
characteristics  of  the  Concord,  and  of  vastly  better 
quality.  Were  it  better  known,  it  would  supersede  that 
variety  in  popular  estimation  as  "The  grape  for  the 
milliou." 

Word  ex.—  A  seedling  of  Concord,  resembling  its 
parent  in  color,  hardiness  and  general  adaptation  to  a 
great  variety  of  soil  and  climate.  It  is,  however,  some- 
what earlier,  the  skin  is  less  tender,  it  is  freer  from  un- 
ripe pulp,  and  of  superior  flavor. 


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preparation,  planting-  and  maintenance  of  the  beds,  arti- 
ficial propagation,  manures,  enemies,  selection  for  mar- 
ket and  for  improvement,  preparation  for  sale,  and  the 
profits  that  may  be  expected.  This  booklet  is  concisely 
written,  well  and  profusely  illustrated,  and  should  be 
in  the  hands  of  all  who  expect  to  grow  this  drug  to 
supply  the  export  trade,  and  to  add  a  new  and  profitable 
industry  to  their  farms  and  gardens,  without  interfering 
with  the  regular  work.    12mo $  .35 

Land  Draining. 

A  handbook  for  farmers  on  trie  principles  and  practice 
of  draining,  by  Manly  Miles,  giving  the  results  of  his 
extended  experience  in  laying  tile  drains.  The  directions 
for  the  laying  out  and  the  construction  of  tile  drains 
will  enable  the  farmer  to  avoid  the  errors  of  imperfect 
construction,  and  the  disappointment  that  must  neces- 
sarily follow.  This  manual  for  practical  farmers  will 
also  be  found  convenient  for  references  in  regard  to  many 
questions  that  may  arise  in  crop  growing,  aside  from 
the  special  subjects  of  drainage  of  which  it  treats.  Cloth, 
12mo. ,        $1.00 

Henderson's  Practical  Floriculture. 

By  Peter  Henderson.  A  guide  to  the  successful  propaga- 
tion and  cultivation  of  florists'  plants.  The  work  is  not 
one  for  florists  and  gardeners  only,  but  the  amateur's 
wants  are  constantly  kept  in  mind,  and  we  have  a  very 
complete  treatise  on  the  cultivation  of  flowers  under 
glass,  or  in  the  open  air,  suited  to  those  who  grow  flowers 
for  pleasure  as  well  as  those  who  make  them  a  matter 
of  trade.  Beautifully  illustrated.  New  and  enlarged 
edition.    Cloth,  12mo $1.50 

Tobacco  Leaf. 

By  J.  B.  Killebrew  and  Herbert  Myrick.  Its  Culture 
and  Cure,  Marketing  and  Manufacture.  A  practical 
handbook  on  the  most  approved  methods  in  growing, 
harvesting,  curing,  packing,  and  selling  tobacco,  with  an 
account  of  the  operations  in  every  department  of  tobacco 
manufacture.  The  contents  of  this  book  are  based  on 
actual  experiments  in  field,  curing  barn,  packing  house, 
factory  and  laboratory.  It  is  the  only  work  of  the  kind 
in  existence,  and  is  destined  to  be  the  standard  practical 
and  scientific  authority  on  the  whole  subject  of  tobacco 
for  many  years.  Upwards  of  500  pages  and  150  original 
engravings.         •      t       •      •      *       t      •      •       •       $2.00 


STANDARD  BOOKS, 


nay  and  Profit  in  My  uarcren. 

By  E.  P.  Roe.  The  author  takes  us  to  his  garden  on 
the  rocky  hillsides  in  the  vicinity  of  West  Point,  and 
shows  us  how  out  of  it,  after  four  years'  experience,  he 
evoked  a  profit  of  $1,000,  and  this  while  carrying  on  pas- 
toral and  literary  labor.  It  is  very  rarely  that  so  much 
literary  taste  and  skill  are  mated  to  so  much  agricultural 
experience  and  good  sense.     Cloth,  12mo.        .        .        $1.00 

Forest  Planting:. 

By  H.  Nicholas  Jarchow,  LL.  D.  A  treatise  on  the  care 
of  woodlands  and  the  restoration  of  the  denuded  timber- 
lands  on  plains  and  mountains.  The  author  has  fully 
described  those  European  methods  which  have  proved 
to  be  most  useful  in  maintaining  the  superb  forests  of  the 
old  world.  This  experience  has  been  adapted  to  the  dif- 
ferent climates  and  trees  of  America,  full  instructions 
being  given  for  forest  planting  of  our  various  kinds  of 
soil  and  subsoil,  whether  on  mountain  or  valley. 
Illustrated,   12mo $1-50 

Soils  and  Crops  of  the  Farm. 

By  George  E.  Morrow,  M.  A.,  and  Thomas  F.  Hunt.  The 
methods  of  making  available  the  plant  food  in  the  soil 
are  described  in  popular  language.  A  short  history  of 
each  of  the  farm  crops  is  accompanied  by  a  discussion 
of  its  culture.  The  useful  discoveries  of  science  are 
explained  as  applied  in  the  most  approved  methods  of 
culture.    Illustrated.    Cloth,  12mo $1.00 

American  Fruit  Culturist. 

By  John  J.  Thomas.  Containing  practical  directions  for 
the  propagation  and  culture  of  all  the  fruits  adapted  to 
the  United  States.  Twentieth  thoroughly  revised  and 
greatly  enlarged  edition  by  Wm.  H.  S.  Wood.  This  new 
edition  makes  the  work  practically  almost  a  new  book, 
containing  everything  pertaining  to  large  and  small 
fruits  as  well  as  sub-tropical  and  tropical  fruits.  Richly 
Illustrated  by  nearly  800  engravings.    758  pp.,  12mo.    $2.50 

Fertilizers. 

By  Edward  B.  Voorhees,  director  of  the  New  Jersey  Agri- 
cultural Experiment  Station.  It  has  been  the  aim  of 
the  author  to  point  out  the  underlying  principles  and  to 
discuss  the  important  subjects  connected  with  the  use 
of  fertilizer  materials.  The  natural  fertility  of  the  soil, 
the  functions  of  manures  and  fertilizers,  and  the  need 
of  artificial  fertilizers  are  exhaustively  discussed.  Sepa- 
rate chapters  are  devoted  to  the  various  fertilizing  ele- 
ments, to  the  purchase  chemical  analyses,  methods  of 
using  fertilizers,  and  the  best  fertilizers  for  each  of  the 
most  important  field,  garden  and  orchard  crops. 
335  pp ,       .       .       .$1.00 


STANDARD   B00K3. 


Gardening:  for  Profit. 


By  Peter  Henderson.  The  standard  work  on  market  and 
family  gardening-.  The  successful  experience  of  the  author 
for  more  than  thirty  years,  and  his  willingness  to  tell, 
as  he  does  in  this  work,  the  secret  of  his  success  for 
the  benefit  of  others,  enables  him  to  give  most  valuable 
information.  The  book  is  profusely  illustrated.  Cloth, 
12mo.  $1.50 

Herbert's  Hints  to  Horse  Keepers. 

By  the  late  Henry  William  Herbert  (FrE.nk  Forester). 
This  is  one  of  the  best  and  most  popular  works  on  the 
horse  prepared  in  this  country.  A  complete  manual  for 
horsemen,  embracing:  How  to  breed  a  horse;  how  to  buy 
a  horse;  how  to  break  a  horse;  how  to  use  a  horse;  how 
to  feed  a  horse;  how  to  physic  a  horse  (allopathy  or  ho» 
moeopathy);  how  to  groom  a  horse;  how  to  drive  a  horse; 
how  to  ride  a  horse,  etc.  Beautifully  illustrated.  Cloth, 
12mo.  .  $1.50 

Barn  Plans  and  Outbuildings. 

Two  hundred  and  fifty-seven  illustrations.  A  most  val- 
uable work,  full  of  ideas,  hints,  suggestions,  plans,  etc., 
for  the  construction  of  barns  and  outbuildings,  by  prac- 
tical writers.  Chanters  are  devoted  to  the  economic 
erection  and  use  of  barns,  grain  barns,  house  barns, 
cattle  barns,  sheep  barns,  corn  houses,  smoke  houses, 
ice  houses,  pig  pens,  granaries,  etc.  There  are  likewise 
chapters  on  bird  houses,  dog  houses,  tool  sheds,  ventila- 
tors, roofs  and  roofing,  doors  and  fastenings,  workshops, 
poultry  houses,  manure  sheds,  barnyards,  root  pits,  etc, 
Cloth,  12mo $1.00 

Cranberry  Culture. 

By  Joseph  J.  White.  Contents*.  Natural  history,  history 
of  cultivation,  choice  nf  location,  preparing  the  ground, 
planting  the  vin-is,  management  of  meadows,  flooding, 
enemies  and  difficulties  overcome,  picking,  keeping,  pro- 
fit and  loss.     Cloth,   12mo $1.08 

Ornamental  Gardening  for  Americans. 

By  Elias  A.  Long,  landscape  architect.  A  treatise  on 
beautifying  homes,  rural  districts  and  cemeteries.  A 
plain  and  practical  work  with  numerous  illustrations  a«cj 
instructions  so  plain  that  they  may  be  readily  followed. 
Illustrated.     CloLh,  12mo $1.50 

Grape  Culturist. 

By  A.  S.  Fuller.  This  is  one  of  the  very  best  of  works 
on  the  culture  of  the  hardy  grapes,  with  full  directions 
for  all  departments  of  propagation,  culture,  etc.,  with 
150  excellent  engravings,  illustrating  planting,  training, 
grafting,  etc.    Cloth,  12mo.    ......       $1.5* 


STANDARD   BOOKS. 


Turkeys  and  How  to  Grow  Them. 

Edited  by  Herbert  Myrick.  A  treatise  on  the  natural  his- 
tory and  origin  of  the  name  of  turkeys;  the  various 
breeds,  the  best  methods  to  insure  success  in  the  business 
of  turkey  growing.  With  essays  from  practical  turkey 
growers  in  different  parts  of  the  United  States  and  Can- 
ada.    Copiously  illustrated.     Cloth,    12mo.        .        .        $1,00 

Profits!   Poultry. 

Usetuf  and  ornamental  breeds  and  their  profitable  man- 
agement. This  excellent  work  contains  the  combined 
experience  of  a  number  of  practical  men  in  all  depart- 
ments of  poultry  raising.  It  Js  profusely  illustrated  and 
forms  a  unique  and  important  addition  to  our  poultry 
literature.      Cloth,    12mo $1.00 

How  Crops  Grow. 

By  Prof.  Samuel  W.  Johnson  of  Yale  College.  New  and 
revised  edition.  A  treatise  en  the  chemical  composition, 
structure  and  life  of  the  plant.  This  book  is  a  guide  to 
the  knowledge  of  agricultura1  plants,  their  composition, 
their  structure  and  modes  of  development  and  growth; 
of  the  complex  organization  of  plants,  and  the  use  of 
the  parts;  the  germination  of  seeds,  and  the  food  of 
plants  obtained  both  from  the  air  and  the  soil.  The 
book  is  indispensable  to  all  real  students  of  agriculture. 
With  numerous  illustrations  an**  tables  of  analysis.  Cloth, 
12mo.  $1.50 


Cofcurn's  Swine  Husbandry, 


By  F.  D.  Coburn.  New,  revised  and  enlarged  edition.  The 
breeding,  rearing,  and  management  of  swine,  and  the 
prevention  and  treatment  of  their  diseases.  It  is  the  full- 
est and  freshest  compendium  relating  »o  swine  breeding 
yet  offered.     Cloth,  12mo $1.50 

Stewart's  Shepherd's  Manual. 

By  Henry  Stewait.  A  valuable  practical  treatise  on  the 
sheep  for  American  farmers  and  sheep  growers.  It  is 
so  plain  that  a  farmer  or  a  farmer's  son  who  has  never 
kept  a  sheep,  may  learn  from  its  pages  how  to  manage 
a  flock  successfully,  and  yet  so  complete  that  oven  the 
experienced  shepherd  may  gather  many  suggestions  from 
it.  The  results  of  personal  experience  of  some  years 
with  the  characters  of  the  various  modern  breeds  of 
sheep,  and  the  sheep  raising  capabilities  of  many  por- 
tions of  our  extensive  territory  and  that  of  Canada — and 
the  careful  study  of  the  diseases  to  which  our  sheep 
are  chiefly  subject,  with  those  by  which  they  may  even- 
tually be  afflicted  through  unforeseen  accidents — as  well 
us  the  methods  of  management  called  for  under  our 
circumstances,  are  carefully  described.  Illustrated.  Cloth, 
12mo.      •      .  $1.09 


STANDARD  BOOKS, 


Feeds  and  Feeding. 


By  W.  A.  Henry.  This  handbook  for  students  and  stocK 
men  constitutes  a  compendium  of  practical  and  useful 
knowledge  on  plant  growth  and  animal  nutrition,  feed- 
ing stuffs,  feeding  animals  and  every  detail  pertaining 
to  this  important  subject.  It  is  thorough,  accurate  and 
reliable,  and  is  th(  most  valuable  contribution  to  live 
stock  literature  in  many  years.  All  the  latest  and  best 
information  is  cleai  ly  and  systematically  presented,  mak- 
ing the  work  indispensable  to  every  owner  of  live  stock. 
658  pages,   8vo.     Cloth $2.00 

Hunter  and  Trapper. 

By  Halsey  Thrasher,  an  old  and  experienced  sportsman. 
The  best  modes  of  hunting  and  trapping  are  fully  ex- 
plained, and  foxes,  deer,  Dears,  etc.,  fall  into  his  traps 
readily  by  following  his  directions.     Cloth,  12mo.        $    .50 

The  Ice  Crop. 

By  Theron  L.  Hiles.  How  to  harvest,  ship  and  use  ice. 
A  complete,  practical  treatise  for  farmers,  dairymen,  ice 
dealers,  produce  shippers,  meat  packers,  cold  storers, 
and  all  interested  in  ice  houses,  cold  storage,  and  the 
handling  or  use  of  ice  in  any  way.  Including  many 
recipes  for  iced  dishes  and  beverages.  The  book  is 
illustrated  by  cuts  of  the  tools  and  machinery  used  in 
cutting  and  storing  ice,  and  the  different  forms  of  ice 
houses  and  cold  storage  buildings.  122  pp.,  ill.,  16mo. 
Cloth.  .  $1.08 

Practical  Forestry. 

By  Andrew  S.  Fuller.  A  treatise  on  the  propagation, 
planting  and  cultivation,  with  descriptions  and  the  botan- 
ical and  popular  names  of  all  the  indigenous  trees  of  tha 
United  States,  and  notes  on  a  large  number  of  the  most 
valuable  exotic  species $1.50 

Irrigation  for  the  Farm,  Garden  and  Orchard. 

By  Henry  Stewart.  This  work  is  offered  to  those  Amer- 
ican farmers  and  other  cultivators  of  the  soil  who,  from 
painful  experience,  can  readily  appreciate  the  losses  which 
result  from  the  scarcity  of  water  at  critical  periods. 
Fully  illustrated.     Cloth,   12mo $1.00 

Market  Gardening  and  Farm  Notes. 

By  Burnett  I.andreth.  Experiences  and  observation  for 
both  North  and  South,  of  interest  to  the  amateur  gar- 
dener, trucker  and  farmer.  A  novel  feature  of  the  book 
is  the  calendar  of  farm  and  garden  operations  for  each 
month  of  the  year;  the  chapters  on  fertilizers,  trans- 
planting, succession  and  rotation  of  crops,  the  packing, 
shipping  and  marketing  of  vegetables  will  be  especially 
useful  to  market  gardeners.    Cloth,  12mo.       •       •       $1.00 


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